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How to make paving slabs with your own hands: manufacturing technology at home. Production of paving slabs at home Making paving slabs with your own hands step by step instructions

The most popular material for creating paths in the garden today is paving slabs. It can be of various shapes and shades, it is convenient for creating simple and intricate patterns, which is why the owners of suburban areas like it so much.

But not everyone can afford high-quality paving slabs. But making it at home is much cheaper. If you follow the instructions and technology, paved walkways will last for many years.

Making paving slabs with your own hands is not an easy task. But the manufacturing process is a creative and exciting activity that gives a lot of pleasant impressions.

What do you need to make tiles?

The main thing you need to create paving slabs with your own hands is:

sand;
water;
forms.

Experienced craftsmen for self-manufacturing tiles at home are advised to take cement brand M500. Products from it are more durable.

Sand should be sifted: it should not contain leaves, grass and other debris. If you buy sand in a store, it is better to take 04,-0.6 mm fractions. Water for the preparation of the solution must also be clean.

Although each mold for homemade cement tiles can be used over a hundred times, it is worth buying a dozen or more to make the job go faster.

You can make paving slabs with the help of improvised means. To do this, they often use plastic containers, home-made forms from wooden bars, and so on. Nobody limits your imagination. To give a pattern and relief, you can also use all your imagination - the owners of garden plots use any materials for a pattern on a tile: relief figures and even tree leaves.

Other necessary materials and tools:

Hammer drill with mixing attachment or
vibrating table (optional)
bucket or other large mixing container
fine crushed stone fraction up to 1 cm or screenings
Plasticizer C-3 (preferably, to give greater strength)
clean glass containers
measuring cup
lubricant (emulsol, OPL-1, SVA-3 and other lubricants without petroleum products)
brine (brine) for mold washing

The proportions of the mortar for the manufacture of paving slabs

To make paving slabs, there are dozens of recipes. However, one of them has gained the most popularity. Note that this mortar recipe is only suitable for gray tiles (without the addition of dyes).

Required proportions for the manufacture of paving slabs:

Cement - 25%
Sand - 20%
Crushed stone - 55%
Plasticizer C-3 - at the rate of 10 g per 10 kg

Approximately 15 liters of water will be needed for 80 kg of solution. But it is better to focus on the consistency, pouring water gradually.

And for colored tiles, you can use this recipe:

Cement - 20 kg
Sand - 35 kg
Crushed stone - 35 kg
Plasticizer - 70 g
Inorganic dye - 500 grams

To make paving slabs of the desired shade, there is one secret. The bottom line is to experiment with the amount of pigment in a small volume of solution and remember the proportions.

Making paving slabs with your own hands: step by step instructions

When stirring the solution, do not pour a lot of water at once! If the solution is too thin, this is bad for the strength of the final product.
Some owners of suburban areas put forms with slabs immediately on the path and leave to dry right on the spot. This option is also appropriate if there are no animals in your garden that can spoil the texture of future paving stones. In addition, the track this case you will have to reliably protect from rain so that the tile does not get wet.
You can make paving slabs with your own hands without the use of a plasticizer. However, this component will give the tile greater strength and increase resistance to temperature changes.
Do not be afraid if small stones come across in the sand. The quality of the plate will not decrease from this, but the texture will be more original.
For a better laying of paving slabs, the surface should be tamped, for this you can buy a vibrating plate or vibrotamper, and how cheap analogue you can use a bar, having previously attached handles to it.

The abundance of shapes and colors of decorative cement paving slabs will allow you to turn your garden into a real masterpiece. This is exactly the case when the work is worth the result. DIY tiles for garden paths not only look beautiful - they will give comfortable walks around the site even in the rainiest weather!

The production of paving slabs at home does not bring any special advantages to the developer. Without a vibrating table, the quality of curly paving elements (FEM) is sharply reduced. You will have to buy or make a lot of tile molds with your own hands or dry and accumulate finished products yourself for several months to paving one path or parking lot. It is difficult to comply with the composition of concrete, and you will also need a place to store paving stones. But if you are not afraid of difficulties, then welcome.

Independent production of paving stones resembles a miniature construction foundation slab into the formwork. Filling can be done in forms created by oneself or purchased in a store.

The easiest way to make the form yourself is from a bar:

Similarly, a Rhombus, Square, Hexagon is created. Factory forms simplify the technology, they are made of several materials:

After calculating how much lining is needed for the track, you can buy the right amount of propylene or rubber molds. You can make your own molds from silicone, polyurethane or two-component polymer resin, having at least one factory paving slab for a sample (master model):

the composition is mixed in the right amount;
the master model is placed in a bounding container (for example, knocked down from 4 boards with a bottom);
a silicone solution (polyurethane or resin) is poured into a container.

Look more clearly in the video:

You just need to change the brick to factory-made paving slabs.

After drying, the form is suitable for pouring several hundred tiles.

Making a vibrating table is much more difficult:

an eccentric is attached to the motor shaft;
the drive is fixed on a table with a metal cover;
mains operated, installed on a solid base, preferably outdoors.

Under normal conditions, concrete dries from 3 days, and molds are needed for in-line production of FEM elements. Therefore, an analogue of concrete steaming technology is used - immersion for several minutes in hot water(within 80 degrees).

Important! It is impossible to dry the tiles in this way, but the speed and quality of hydration (the formation of cement stone) can be dramatically increased.

Mixing concrete

Having decided according to the layout scheme how many whole elements and halves to make, you can calculate the approximate amount of raw materials, taking into account the following factors:

With small volumes, batches can be made with your own hands with a drill with a mixer equipment. If you need a lot of tiles, a concrete mixer and several vibrating tables are used.

Important! Granite or marble screenings, crushed stone in the sand will significantly increase the strength and frost resistance of the tile. If it is planned to produce paving elements with an ornament on the front, it is better to use seeded sand without coarse filler fractions.

Instead of a plasticizer, concentrated detergents (for example, Fairy) are often used in a proportion of 1 tablespoon per bucket of solution. But it is better to use industrial plasticizers, such as C3, sold both in dry and liquid form.

Laying in forms

With known proportions of the components of the mixture, the technology for manufacturing curly FEM paving elements with your own hands is not difficult:

This time is sufficient to remove air from the concrete, uniform distribution of the large fraction of the filler throughout the volume. The vibrating table is turned off after the appearance of cement milk at the surface, the disappearance of crushed stone inside and the cessation of the release of bubbles.

For each tile, you need to dry it, and then use the mold to make the rest of the paving stones. Therefore, an accelerated formwork stripping technology is used - after the concrete has set, the FEM in the mold is immersed in 80 degree water for 5 - 7 minutes to accelerate the curing of the composition.

In hot water, it is easier to get the tiles out of the mold.

The technique replaces steaming, allows you to reduce the hardening time to 1 - 2 days, after which, the paving stones are powerfully laid. On the very first day of FEM production, you can estimate how much paving stones can be made per unit of time.

Advice! To reduce the complexity of the technology, the molds are rinsed with saline - brine. The proportions for its preparation are 30g / 1l (salt, water, respectively).

Colored paving slabs

To reduce the budget for finishing, only a certain part of the tile can be colored. Therefore, before preparing concrete with your own hands, you should calculate how many “halves” and solid paving elements you need to do with your own hands. The pigment is added to the cement-sand mixture during mixing, the main nuances of the technology are:

In addition to increasing the cost of the product, the manufacturing technology does not add any difficulties. The paving slab dries in the same way, the strength and moisture resistance do not change. Experts recommend making rigid concrete with the lowest possible W / C ratio of 0.4 - 0.6 units.

Important! When creating high-quality colored paving slabs, only white cement is used. Regular portland lineups gray color not intended for tinting, react with pigment, can give a "dirty" color.

The economic effect is achieved due to a special technique for the manufacture of two-layer paving stones:

separately from gray, but at the same time you need to make colored concrete;
forms are filled with a tinted mixture 1.5 - 2 cm in height;
kept on the included vibrating table for 20 seconds;
then the gray concrete of the base layer is poured on top;
the tile is vibrocompacted for another 20 seconds;
wrapped together with the form in polyethylene;
removed for drying for 2 days.

Double layer vibrocasting.

During the specified time, two layers of concrete do not have time to mix completely, but they penetrate each other, becoming a single layer. The front surface receives high-quality coloring, the pigment is saved. You can calculate how much gray and colored concrete is needed empirically.

Luminous paving slabs

Luminous paving slabs are used to improve the quality of sidewalk exteriors. There are elements of paving LED network and rechargeable, luminescent. In all these cases, it is possible to manufacture glowing FEMs with your own hands:

luminescent paving stones are obtained after staining with a special composition;
LED lamps with a controller board are placed inside a transparent box of a suitable size or glass block.

Glowing pavement.

Luminous paving stones with LEDs can be made on solar panels or from a 220 V network with a power supply. The specific figure, how much to make luminous paving slabs for the path, depends on the owner of the project.

borders

The necessary spatial rigidity of the “trough”, in which the paving elements are laid, is provided by the curbs installed on the mortar. Making them on your own will help reduce the budget for landscaping. Forms can be bought or designed independently from materials:

polymer resin - the factory border, which is a matrix, is completely recessed into the diluted mixture;
lumber - edged or tongue-and-groove board with side jumpers;
rolled metal - a channel of a suitable section with muffled ends.

Factory molds for the border.

After lubricating the internal surfaces of the form with a soapy solution, used oil, you can fill it with a concrete mixture and make borders according to the technology:

concrete compaction - baying with a reinforcing bar or laying the form on a vibrating table;
drying - after demoulding, the finished products are stored with an air gap.

Depending on the air temperature (+5 - + 30 degrees), curbs can be mounted at the place of operation for 4 - 28 days, respectively.

Stormwater trays are built using a similar technology with minor additions:

the shape is a little deeper;
a piece of pipe is longitudinally fixed at its bottom, due to which a recess is created.

Without these additional elements, it is impossible to provide a drain in a given direction, the water will destroy the soil adjacent to the sidewalks.

Large-format paving slabs poured in place

The technology of curly paving elements poured in place is placed in a separate category. The form for this paving slab is very large, it is inconvenient to transport finished products. Therefore, they are cast at the place of operation close to each other. The seams are provided by the mold material.

The industry produces molds made of propylene 44 x 44 cm with a slightly modified configuration and name (Mosaic, Garden Road). The declared reversibility of 1000 cycles is almost always observed.

An analogue can be made on its own from a steel corner and a strip according to a propylene sample. In any case, the technology differs from classical paving:

the form is set in place;
filled with concrete
partially bayoneted with fittings or trowel;
after the start of hardening, the form is removed, mounted close to the previous paving slab.

Such a coating has high adhesion to the underlying layer, but has a large format. In the middle part, the recesses are not through, but only imitate seams. Therefore, they may accumulate moisture and partial destruction of the material when water freezes in winter.

Thus, curly paving elements can be made independently, knowing the composition and how many tiles different color everything will be required.

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Ideal for paving paths and playgrounds. Such a coating does not gas like asphalt, does not crack when the soil heaves and does not collect puddles on itself.

Another important advantage: it will significantly reduce the cost of construction work.

There are two ways to make paving slabs:

vibrocompression. It includes two stages: molding the mixture in a vibropress under the influence of vibration and pressure and drying in a heat chamber under conditions of elevated temperature and humidity. Tiles made using this method are highly durable and suitable for use in places with significant stress;
vibrocasting. The compaction of the solution is carried out only due to vibration, for which the forms are set to. Drying - in natural conditions.

Equipment for vibrocompression is expensive and therefore this method is not suitable for a home workshop. The vibrating table can be made independently, so that adjustment in artisanal production conditions by vibration casting will not require serious costs.

Vibro-cast tiles are suitable for areas with light foot traffic. But for the device of the automobile platform, its strength is no longer enough.

Necessary tools and materials

For production you will need:

concrete mixer. In extreme cases, you can replace it with a powerful drill with a mixer nozzle;
vibrating table. How to make it yourself - is described below;
. Sold in stores, but you can;
building level: they control the horizontality of the vibrating table and racks for drying. When skewed, the tile will turn out uneven;
shovel, trowel, bucket;
brush.

Materials used:

cement. Sulfate-resistant (with a reduced content of 3-calcium aluminates) Portland cement grade not lower than M400 is used. Suitable PTSII / A-Sh-400. The preferred color is white: gray looks messy when stained. Production date is important: 3-month cement even with proper storage loses 20% strength, 6-month - 30%, annual - 40%;
filler: large - granite screenings, pebbles or slag 3 - 5 mm in size; fine - sifted pure river or quarry sand with size module. The purity of the sand is checked by trying to make a lump out of it: if it works, the material contains a lot of clay inclusions;
pure water. In terms of quality, in most cases, ordinary tap water is suitable;
plasticizer. Makes concrete durable, moisture and wear resistant. Good feedback Received "Superplasticizer S-3" from tile manufacturers. Also used are the compositions of the brands "Component", Master Silk, Plastimax F.

The function of reinforcement is performed by:

crushed fiberglass;
polypropylene fiber Micronix 12 mm;
basalt fiber MicronixBazalt 12 mm.

To give the tiles the desired color, dyes are used:

mineral: give a bright color, resistant to chemical attack and temperature extremes;
organic: give soft, natural shades.

Paving slabs are painted in two ways:

surface. Dry dye is rubbed into the surface of still wet modules or painted with a solution using an airbrush. The method gives a bright color, but is labor intensive. In addition, as abrasion and chipping, the tile loses color;
volume. The dye is added to the solution during mixing, in the amount of 7% by weight of dry matter, which, due to the high cost, is associated with costs.

In order to save money, the modules are poured in two layers: first, a third or a half - with colored concrete, then the rest - colorless. The maximum admissible time interval between fillings of layers - 20 min.

Production cycle

The tile manufacturing process includes the following steps:

preparation of the solution in strict accordance with the recipe;
laying in forms with vibration compaction (performed on a vibrating table);
hardening in forms for about 2 days;
stripping (removal of castings from molds);
holding until complete curing.

Preparation of molds for the production of vibrocast products

Forms are purchased in the store (the most durable) or made independently.

Homemade are of two types:

simple. Represent a 4-coal or 6-coal frame made of wooden bars or metal profiles. The form is left without a bottom - just install it on a rubber mat covered with plastic wrap;
curly.

Figured forms are made of plastic materials in the following way:

check the horizontal level of the table for work;
knock together formwork from wooden bars;
a sample tile is laid in it: it is purchased or made of wood / gypsum;
gypsum, molten plastic, polyurethane or silicone are poured into the formwork.

Plastic material will repeat the contours and relief of the sample tile.

The smallest details reproduce silicone and polyurethane. But on the other hand, plastic surpasses them in resource (more modules can be made from one form). Before pouring concrete, the form is lubricated from the inside to prevent the solution from sticking.

With an excess of fat in the lubricant, shells will appear in the tile, with a lack, the solution will stick to the mold. Therefore, it is important to use either special compounds (Emulsol, Lirossin), or prepare the lubricant yourself according to a proven recipe.

For example, for a plastic mold, the product is prepared as follows:

50 g of engine oil is poured into 1.5 liters of water;
shake the mixture long and thoroughly until it becomes an emulsion.

Mixing concrete composition

The ingredients for the solution are taken in such quantities:

cement: 21%;
granite screening: 23%;
sand: 56%;
plasticizer: 0.5-0.7% by weight of dry matter (m.s.v.);
dye: 2 to 7% w.m. (the more, the brighter and more durable the color will turn out);
fiberglass: 0.05% w.m.s.;
water: 5.5% w.m. or 70% of the volume of cement.

As you can see, the solution is prepared semi-dry: only 2 buckets of water are poured into 3 buckets of cement. This is a feature of vibrolaying: the solution in the form will even seem liquid.

Cooking process:

dissolve the plasticizer in hot water (70-80 0 C). Approximate ratio: 1 liter per 200 g of powder. It is important to stir thoroughly, because the plasticizer is fed little by little;
dye is dissolved in water with a temperature of 40-50 0 C. Approximate ratio: 3 liters per 800 g of powder. counting up required amount water, the liquid contained in the dye and plasticizer solutions should be taken into account;
lubricate the concrete mixer by twisting the liquid in it for several minutes cement mortar(then it is poured).

After that, the components are loaded into a working concrete mixer in the following sequence:

a fifth of water;
cement and sand;
coarse aggregate (when cement in water forms an emulsion or, in everyday language, milk);
solutions of plasticizer and dye;
the remaining water;
fiberglass.

Do not overmix with stirring as the water evaporates. Mix for 1 to 3 minutes.

In a small concrete mixer (less than 0.5 m 3), the ingredients can be fed as follows:

sand and half gravel: interfere with 30 - 40 seconds;
cement: all together interfere for another 1 minute;
the entire volume of water provided for by the recipe, including solutions of plasticizer and dye;

Then the remaining crushed stone and fiber are added, and the last mixing is performed for 1 minute.

Shaping, curing and stripping

Forms are filled with a solution and installed on a working vibrating table. Approximate time of vibrolaying - 5 min. The solution level drops due to compaction, so it has to be topped up.

When white foam appears, the vibrating table is turned off: this indicates the release of all air from the solution, further vibro-laying will lead to its delamination. Forms are installed on a rack and covered with polyethylene.

After a day or two, the castings are removed (formwork stripping): having laid a cover, they are knocked out of the mold with light blows of a rubber hammer. If they come out badly, molds for 5 minutes. immersed in water with a temperature of 60-70 0 C.

Forms before the next use are washed with saline (it is better to soak them in it for a while), prepared at the rate of 30 g of salt per 1 liter of water.

Making a vibrating table with your own hands

As a vibrating table, you can use a washing machine - an automatic machine turned on in the spin mode.

A simple version of the table for 1-2 forms is done like this:

lay a car tire horizontally;
top - steel sheet up to 10 mm thick;
a jigsaw is screwed to the sheet.

A more complex version is made in the form of a table from a sheet of the same thickness and a rolled profile:

frame is cooked. The legs are strengthened with crossbars, bosses are welded on top. A shelf is mounted at the bottom of the frame;
springs are put on the bosses;
glasses are welded at the points of contact of the table top with spring supports. The finished structure is freely installed on elastic elements;
an engine with an eccentric is mounted on the lower shelf of the frame. A unit with a power of 500-900 W is suitable, for example, IV-98E or IV-99E.

You can use the motor from the washing machine. It is not designed for mass production, but when replacing bushings and standard bearings with reinforced type bearings, the resource will increase significantly.

What can ruin the finished product?

In order not to spoil the tile, it is important to observe the following conditions:

the rack for storing castings before stripping is set in a strictly horizontal position according to the level;
castings are protected from direct sunlight;
rapid evaporation of moisture is excluded: castings are covered with polyethylene, there are no drafts in the storage area. Water reacts with cement, therefore, with its lack, concrete loses its strength. IN hot weather castings are periodically sprayed with water.

Under these conditions and subject to the recipe, home-made tiles are not inferior in strength to factory ones.

Paving slab production technology

Despite the simplicity of the production technology, there are some nuances that should be studied before proceeding with the manufacture of tiles on their own. First of all, you need to choose and master the method of its manufacture that suits you.

Vibrocast paving slabs

This technology for the production of tiles provides for a continuously operating vibrating table, on which the sand-cement mixture hardens, laid in special forms.

After full compaction and hardening of the mixture, the molds are transferred to a warm place where they must stand for at least 12 hours.

The finished product is even and smooth. Such tiles are easy to clean from snow and sand. It has a bright, saturated color, and the form of its manufacture is practically unlimited.

For paving paths, it can embody any design idea on your site. Qualitatively laid out tiles can give an accent to any of your buildings on the site, especially since this is an excellent solution to get away from annoying asphalt.

From an industrial point of view, the production of vibrocast paving slabs is a fairly cheap process, perfectly suited for private use.

Vibropressed paving slabs

The manufacturing technology of vibropressed paving slabs is as follows.

The concrete mixture is laid on a continuously vibrating frame in a special form (matrix).
Then, a special blank (punch) made in the form of a matrix high pressure, like a piston, begins to put pressure on the mixture.
After complete compaction, the die and punch rise up, and the finished product remains on the bed. This method is fully automated and requires minimal human intervention.

The surface of the product is rough and porous. Such tiles are able to withstand heavy loads, are resistant to severe frosts, and are suitable for crowded places and vehicle traffic.

Despite the fact that there are compact installations that allow you to place such equipment on a home site, their cost is still high.

Based on the foregoing, we can conclude that for private needs, vibrocast paving slabs will be quite enough.

There is no need to be able to withstand heavy loads, since neither crowds of tourists nor vehicles will move along it. Therefore, in this article we will consider the manufacture of paving slabs using vibrocasting technology.

Paving slab manufacturing technologies

The expediency of buying equipment or renting it depends on the scale of the planned production.

If you need to cover small areas of your site with tiles, it makes sense to rent the necessary equipment, but if you have grandiose work on laying paved paths, blind areas, various sites, then it makes sense to think about purchasing it. In a word, it's up to each of you.

Necessary equipment for work

It is very difficult to manually bring the concrete mixture to the desired consistency. An alternative is a powerful drill with a special nozzle for mixing the mortar.

However, it is undesirable to work with such a tool for a long time, periodically you need to give it time to rest from the load. An ideal option would be a time-tested electric concrete mixer.

The main element of production without which you can not do. To date, you can buy a vibrating table in any store specializing in the sale of construction equipment.

Their initial price starts from $300. But do not rush, it is very simple from improvised materials. To do this, you will need (an electric motor, a sheet of metal, corners, metal plates and springs).

Local kulibins manage to use an ordinary washing machine for these purposes, setting it to high spin speeds.

Mix molds. You can also make the necessary forms using the material that almost everyone has on the site (plywood, metal plates, gypsum, and so on).

Options for making molds for paving slabs

You can purchase ready-made forms on any construction market, their price is not very high, so this will not significantly affect the budget.

DIY vibrating table

We will describe in stages the manufacture of a vibrating table for future forms. The main task is to get a flat surface of the upper platform. Required material and the tool you need:

vibration motor;
Sheet of metal with a thickness of 5 mm. (upper platform);
metal corner or profile pipe(framework);
Springs (damping);
Welding machine, electrodes and grinder.

frame

We weld a regular frame of suitable sizes from metal corners or pipes. It is important to ensure that opposite pipes are the same size.

Using the same material, a rectangle is welded. On one side, a sheet of metal is welded onto it, on the other, a reinforced platform for a vibration motor with slots for fastening.

vibration motor

For vibrating tables, it is better to use a platform-type vibration motor. It is installed on a prepared base and firmly clamped with bolts.

Installation

The final step is to connect the platform with the frame, after inserting the springs into the landing bowls between them. The table is ready for use.

The composition of the mortar for paving slabs

The composition of the mortar for the manufacture of paving slabs must contain the following components:

Cement M-500;
Seeded river sand;
Crushed stone (fractions not more than 10 mm);
fiberglass;
plasticizer;
Concrete dye (optional)
Pure water without impurities.

It should be crumbly without the content of lumps and impurities. Remember that cement is a binder, so the strength of the tile will depend on its quality.

Sand like cement, it should not contain foreign impurities such as clay or algae. There is an easy way to test sand for clay content.

The sand must be tightly squeezed into a ball with the hands, fixed for a few seconds and unclenched, look after its condition. If the sand does not crumble, a clear sign of the presence of clay components in it.

Crushed stone is desirable to acquire a fraction 5-10 mm.

fiberglass performs the role of concrete reinforcement. The most common fiber material is polypropylene. It will not be difficult to purchase this component on the construction market.

The component that gives concrete strength and moisture resistance is - plasticizer. Pigment dye is used as needed.

Important! When mixing all of the above components, a strict dosage and sequence must be observed.

The ratio of components in solution

Components	Proportions in %	For 1 m² tiles	For 1 m³ tiles
Cement (M 500)	20%	28 kg.	490 kg.
Crushed stone (fractions 5-10 mm.)	22%	30 kg.	520 kg.
river sand	55%	73 kg.	1300 kg.
plasticizer	0.5% by weight of the solution	45 gr.	1.7 liters
Dye (pigment)	7% by weight of the solution	650 gr.	9 kg.
fiberglass	0.04 by weight of the solution	55 gr.	0.8 kg.
Water	6% by weight of the solution	8.5 liters	135 liters

How to mix the solution correctly

We mix the mortar for paving slabs in the following sequence:

In a drum with a small amount of water (1-1.5 buckets), add a plasticizer and dye;
We start the concrete mixer and stir the added components for one minute. From now on, the mixer should work continuously until the solution is completely mixed;
Then, observing the above proportions, cement is added in turn, and then sand and crushed stone.
Carefully monitor the consistency of the solution in the drum. The solution should turn out to be viscous, but in no case liquid.
The final step will be the addition of fiber to the finished solution. Stir for another 2-3 minutes. The solution is ready.

Casting and vibration processing

The solution is poured into pre-lubricated (soap or oil solution) molds placed on the platform of the vibrating table.
The vibration treatment process must be carefully controlled. As soon as foam forms on the surface, this is a signal that the degassing of the liquid is completed and the machine can be turned off.

This process usually takes 4-5 minutes. It is impossible to overexpose the solution on the bed, the process of its stratification will begin.

Some people wonder why the vibration treatment of the solution is needed, why it is simply impossible to pour the finished mixture into molds.

The answer to this question lies in the tiny air bubbles that are in the hardened concrete. In severe frosts, they contribute to the splitting of paving slabs.

Drying and stripping molds

IN summer period drying of castings should last at least 24 hours, in cool weather at least 2 days. In order for the tile to come out of the mold more easily, it should be immersed in a container with hot water for 10-15 seconds. The molds are well washed with water and they are ready for work again.

Important! It is not recommended to put freshly cast tiles into work immediately. To gain strength, it must be kept outdoors under the sun for another week. Only after that the paving slabs are ready for use.

If you have decided to make paving slabs with your own hands, then we hope that this article will be a good help and help in your work.

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We make paving slabs with our own hands
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paving slabs- aesthetic and resistant to a wide variety of external factors material. However, its cost is also significant, so many owners country houses are thinking about how to make paving slabs with their own hands.

Will help in the manufacture of paving slabs by hand step-by-step instruction.

. We purchase the necessary materials

To make paving slabs with your own hands, you need cement And sand. Additional components are dyes and superplasticizer. The latter is needed to increase the strength characteristics of products and their resistance to frost.

paving slabs with hands step by step instructions. A photo

. We select equipment

Of the equipment for the production of paving slabs with their own hands, a vibrating table and molds are required. vibrating table- a special device that creates small vibrations. Due to this, the mixture is compacted and the tile acquires the necessary strength. Buying such a device for home use is not profitable. If there are no rental options, then you can use improvised options. For example, the old washing machine , which remains in working condition if it vibrates strongly enough in any mode.

Next necessary equipment are forms. Further there will be information on how to make molds for paving slabs with your own hands, but in some cases it is more convenient to use ready-made ones.

how to make paving slabs with your own hands. A photo

Ready-made molds are rubber, plastic and polyurethane. Most durable rubber. They withstand five hundred castings. Least durable polyurethane. They are able to survive only a hundred castings. in the middle plastic- two hundred and fifty castings. Rubber and plastic molds are more expensive than polyurethane molds.

. Production technology

Preparing to fill out the forms mixture. The number of components will be as follows. For five kilograms of cement, twice as much pure fine sand and thirty grams are taken superplasticizer. Dye is added as desired.

paving slabs with their own hands at home. A photo

All components are thoroughly mixed first in a dry form. Then water is added, which is poured in small portions. The result should be a homogeneous and fairly viscous mixture. Water should not be too much. From a liquid solution, insufficiently strong products are obtained.

In addition to the main components, fine gravel or screenings can be added to the solution. It will make paving stones more durable and give it a natural appearance. In this case, the ratio of components changes slightly. Thirty grams of superplasticizer and two parts of cement, sand and gravel are taken.

Before pouring the solution, the mold is lubricated with a special emulsion. There are many kinds of them. However, you can use a simpler option - dishwashing detergent. This liquid is applied with a brush to the entire inner surface of the mold.

production of paving slabs with their own hands. A photo

After processing all forms, it is poured into them solution. To do this, the containers are filled halfway and placed on vibrating table or a device that replaces it. Vibration is turned on and then the forms are filled to the brim.

After some time, the forms are transferred to the room and covered film so that the concrete does not dry out too quickly. After about two days, do-it-yourself paving slabs are removed from the mold.

For quick extraction, the mold with the tile is lowered into hot water (80 degrees). The shape expands and the tile is easy to reach.

The finished tile is placed on a pallet or a pallet of boards and covered with a film. Better the first ten days of her withstand in the utility room, i.e. under the roof. After that, she is taken out into the street and left for another month so that she gains strength.

Paving slabs with river pebbles

There are many options for paving slabs. Additional components are often added to the main solution, for example, river pebbles or other stones. Consider how to make paving slabs with your hands in step-by-step instructions.

The manufacture of paving slabs with their own hands begins with preparation solution. To do this, we take a plastic basin or other container, as well as a measuring container. Pour one part of cement and three parts of sand into the basin.

Pour water into the mixture, stirring constantly. The consistency of the finished solution should be pasty.

To make interesting paving slabs with your own hands, you should prepare not only the solution, but also the stones. Pebbles of an interesting shape and color are selected.

Required to make tiles the form. It can be made in the form of a wooden formwork. If tiles of different sizes are required, then you can additionally take polyethylene flat containers.

do-it-yourself molds for paving slabs. A photo

The molding process is more convenient to perform on a plank platform covered with polyethylene. The formwork is placed on the platform. The bottom is smeared with used machine oil so that the concrete does not stick to the film.

concrete mortar spread trowel and distributed over the entire area. It should be laid out gradually, smoothing the composition and tamping it down.

After creating an even cement layer, lay out on its surface pebbles. The layout is carried out taking into account the color and size of the stones so that the entire area is filled.

After laying, the stones are pressed into the solution with a trowel. This process will require the use of force. At the same time, similar procedures are performed in small molds. Forms with tiles are covered with polyethylene and kept for three or four days. If the weather is hot, then they are additionally watered with water in the morning and evening. Formwork should be removed when the tiles begin to move away from the walls.

The resulting paving slabs are laid in various combinations. The result is consistently impressive.

Do-it-yourself molds for paving slabs

Many people would like to independently make paving slabs with their own hands for a suburban area. However, many things scare them, and in particular, the high cost of forms. Consider how to make molds for paving slabs with your own hands.

. Plastic construction

Plastic is one of the most convenient materials for making molds. It lags well behind the edges of the tile and is quite durable. If you make such forms for paving slabs with your own hands, then they will be a relatively inexpensive option. Naturally, a homemade form will not create an ornament on the surface of the tile.

Production will require wooden form with carefully crafted details and plastic(can be secondary). The form is set as evenly as possible using a level.

When everything is prepared, pour the plastic. It settles down in about an hour. After that, the product is removed, the roughness is cleaned. Ready plastic mold dry for another two or three days.

Plastic home-made molds for paving slabs are made from any plastic containers. Most importantly, they should not crack when compressed.

Another way is to cut unnecessary pvc pipes rings of the desired height. They will make great shapes for round tiles.

. Wooden form (formwork)

The wooden mold is one of the simplest and most inexpensive and can be easily made. To create this form for paving slabs, several pieces are taken with your own hands. wooden blocks. The desired figure is formed from them, its corners are verified with a special tool. Temporarily the connection is made with adhesive tape.

When everything is ready, the bars are connected screws. For quadrangular formwork, eight screws are sufficient for secure fastening.

finished frame sanding. To prolong its service life and make it easier to remove tiles, the surface can be coated with varnish.

It is convenient to disassemble the wooden frame to remove the tile. This will avoid damage and cracks.

. iron mold

The iron version of the form is one of the most durable and relatively easy to manufacture. You can create such home-made forms for paving slabs from remnants of reinforcement or other similar materials. The slats are selected, which are cut into the required number of pieces of a certain size. Next, the corners are verified and all parts are welded together. Handles are welded for ease of use.

. Polyurethane mold

Polyurethane is one of the varieties of polymer masses. Forms from it are best suited for the production of paving slabs, as they are distinguished by a combination of strength and flexibility.

When creating such a form for paving slabs with your own hands, be sure to take into account security measures. You have to work with gloves. If the processes take place indoors, then good ventilation is required. The container with polyurethane must be tightly closed. Immediately before pouring the polymer, a rubberized apron is required in addition to gloves.

To create a polyurethane mold, first prepare matrix. This is a product that should look like a future tile. First, a master model is prepared, i.e. sample made from any material. Starting with clay and ending with plasticine. You can take as a basis a ready-made tile.

The sample is washed and dried, and then applied to it adhesive compounds. It is better to take wax-based options. With this composition, it is necessary to treat all surfaces with which the polyurethane will come into contact during pouring. The adhesive composition dries for about twenty minutes.

make formwork in which the sample will be placed. She should be three centimeters taller than him.

The polymer mixture is made in compliance with clear proportions. The prepolymer and hardener are heated to room temperature and then mixed in equal proportions. The finished composition should be homogeneous, without air bubbles.

The composition is applied to the surface of the stone with a brush, and only then it is completely poured. The matrix is ready. The next step is to create the mold itself.

Further, the manufacture of a mold for paving slabs with their own hands is carried out in a day. The matrix is placed on a flat surface and gradually poured two-component polyurethane, lifting one of the edges of the matrix. The mixture will spread on its own. Ready-made forms are taken out after a day and left to dry for another two days.

. Silicone molds

The silicone version is highly flexible. This is convenient for removing tiles, but if the mold is not positioned correctly, the product may be skewed.

They make such a form for paving slabs with their own hands from three-component silicone mixture. You will need a base, catalyst and hardener. They are mixed in specific proportions.

A container is prepared in which the form will be created, it is degreased. At the bottom, you can lay out a pattern with sculptural plasticine. The entire surface of the mold is smeared with a thin layer vegetable oil. After that, the silicone mass is poured in a thin stream, trying to avoid air bubbles. The form is completely ready for use in a day.