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Properly do the rough floor. How to make a wooden draft floor on the ground. Floor on adjustable joists

A lot depends on the quality of the subfloor. This is the service life of the finish coating, and the overall quality of the floor. Modern building technologies allow you to create unique floors, but the traditional draft floor on the logs is still popular. This technology has already been tested by time.

Everything you need to know about lags

Logs are called bars made of wood or polymer materials. They can be of different sizes and also different shape. Logs are located under the subfloor covering. Among the advantages of such a solution are:

High properties of heat and sound insulation;
Uniform load distribution;
Ample opportunities for leveling surfaces;
Ventilated subfloor, in the cavity of which various communications can be placed;
Strength - the subfloor on the logs is able to withstand static and dynamic loads up to 5 tons per 1 sq / m;
Ease of installation;
Affordable cost.

Logs can be equipped directly on the ground, wooden or concrete floors of buildings.

Classic floor plans

Floors can be both with underground space and without it. Those structures where there is no subfloor are called cold, but there are technologies that allow such floors to be insulated.

Draft floors with underground space have more varieties. So, they distinguish between cold and heat-insulated. The insulated floor is equipped with a layer of heat-insulating material between the logs or between the supports.

The device of a simple cold floor on the ground

This scheme provides that the logs will be mounted on a dry soil base. The first step is to remove the entire fertile soil layer. Then the surface must be tamped with special care. Next - the surface is covered with sifted sand. If sand is not available, then crushed stone or even construction debris filled with sand can be used.

The resulting pillow also needs to be tamped. To do this, it is recommended to use a vibrating plate, but you can also make a hand tool from improvised materials. It is a fairly heavy deck, which is equipped with handles.

Then make another layer of backfill. Here they already use calcined sand, slag, or dense clay. This layer will become the main one in the device of subfloors. Already on this basis, lags will be mounted. Therefore, such a base should not create conditions for wood decay. As for the thickness of the pillow, it should be 3 times greater than the thickness of the selected bar.

If not sand, but slag is used for the pillow, then it must be delivered to the site about a year before the start of work on the construction of the base. This material needs to lie down.

Wooden logs are mounted in the last layer. The top line of the bar should be flush with the plane of the base. Before installing wood in the ground, it is recommended to treat it with antiseptic materials.

The logs are stacked at some distance from each other. This distance depends on the width of the boards with which the subfloor will be covered in the future. So, for the installation of a subfloor in buildings made of wood, where work is completed with flooring based on grooved boards, the optimal distance is 60 cm.

Insulated floors

The device of the insulated subfloor on the logs is slightly different from the scheme of the cold base.

So, the bottom of the pit, which resulted from the removal of the fertile soil layer, is carefully tamped, and then covered with waterproofing material. Next, fall asleep a multi-layer pillow. The first step is crushed stone. In this case, its thickness should be no more than 8 cm. This layer is also compacted, and then filled with lime milk.

After that, this layer is covered with roofing material, and then sheets of fiberboard 30 mm thick are covered on top. Then expanded clay is poured with a fine or medium fraction. The layer should also be at least 8 cm.

The warming base is poured with "lean" concrete, where the sand content is increased. After the mortar has hardened, the area is additionally covered with sand, and then the scheme for arranging a conventional cold floor is used.

Installation of logs for different types of floors

If the floor is wooden, usually the beams do not differ in perfect evenness. The installation of a subfloor can be difficult, because when installing a log on such floors, it will not be possible to obtain the most even horizontal surface. Logs should be strengthened on the sides of the beams.

The main advantage of this method is the absence of the need for spacers that adjust the height. Fastening is carried out using incomplete screws, where the length of the screw is less than the length of the log. The screw diameter must be at least 6 mm.

When the beams are too far apart, a second syllable is laid perpendicular to the first syllable, but more closely.

If the floors are concrete, then it should be taken into account that in this case it is necessary to take care of good waterproofing, otherwise the whole structure will be constantly damp. In this case, another subfloor device is used.

When laying floors, special attention is paid to waterproofing, as well as heat and sound insulation. Also, a wet or dry screed is required. And only after all this, the logs are laid and the finishing floor is laid.

For lag, you should not choose short bars. If the length is not enough, then the parts are joined to each other end-to-end. The bars are laid directly on the screed.

Installation of a log on soft insulation is not recommended. In such a situation, the bars will "float", which can lead to the destruction of the finish coating. If heat and noise insulation materials allow, then the logs must be positioned so that the insulating materials are located between the two bars.

Laying the lags correctly

Before starting work, the base must be thoroughly cleaned and treated with primers. Wooden parts are dried and treated with an antiseptic. It could be bitumen. The soundproofing layer can be made of slag or sand.

Wood before and after antiseptic treatment.

Installation of the lag is best done from the window. The gap between the wall is made up to 40 cm. After the logs are laid, the plane must be checked against the rule. If you do not see gaps, then everything is done with high quality.

Promising technology - adjustable lags

Gradually, new construction technologies reached these traditional floors. So, the subfloor device according to this method provides for finished beams with threaded holes. They add reliability to the design.

In addition, such lags have an adjustment function. This can be done by rotating special bolts, which allows you to easily change the height of the bar at any time. When the adjustment is completed, the excess part of the bolt can simply be cut off.

Wooden floor on joists

The tree is one of the most the best materials for the arrangement of rough floors. The floor, laid according to all requirements, has a long service life, does not require special care. Subfloor made of wood or plywood - an easy way to level a curved base, high thermal insulation performance, quick installation, cost-effectiveness and availability.

Plywood is best suited for subflooring, OSB boards or chipboard sheets. Ideally, if the plates are tongue-and-groove, and the thickness of the plate will be about 20 mm. It is also allowed that sheet materials will be stacked in two layers.

Lay sheets start from the corner of the room. The first row should be placed with a tongue against the wall. At the same time, a gap is left between the board and the wall. It must be at least 10 mm. This is the so-called compensation gap. The next row is laid with an offset of two logs. If the board does not fit tightly to each other, it is necessary to adjust them by light tapping with a hammer on the end of the board or sheet.

For fasteners, a crate is used with the help of transverse bars. The flooring is fixed with self-tapping screws. Joints of sheet materials should be located on the central axis of the beam.

fine finish

When installing subfloors, it is important to get rid of small height differences and various defects in boards or plywood. To do this, the surface is ground or scraped.

Then, the floors must be impregnated with oil impregnation, parquet varnish or covered with wax mastic.

That's all that can be said about the rough floors. This is a simple and affordable way that will last for many years. How the subfloor is arranged on the logs can be seen in the video. The video clearly shows all the stages of work on different types bases and floors.

Everyone knows that it is not possible to fully live in an apartment or house without an equipped floor. It is simply necessary. Is it worth it to do it wooden house- this question worries many. Their logic boils down to the fact that why spend money on an additional subfloor, it might be easier to just lay a finishing one right away. Everything is ambiguous here.

Of course, you can get by with a fair one, but in this case you will not be able to get a reliable and beautiful coating. But the main thing that the floor should stand out with is reliability, strength, a flat surface, as well as some other parameters that are extremely difficult to achieve without a subfloor. Changing the final floor every year, if there is no rough one, is an unaffordable luxury.

Photo: draft floor in a wooden house

Draft floor - what is it?

A subfloor is a special base for a finishing floor, which forms a flat horizontal plane for it. The subfloor provides distribution of the load that acts on the floor covering.

In a wooden house, the draft floor can be done in several ways:

wooden on logs;
plywood flooring;
pouring concrete.

Wooden draft floor on logs

In a wooden house, the installation of a subfloor on logs practically does not differ from its installation in monolithic or brick houses. The main difference is in the fastening of the lag.

General scheme of the device

lag mount

Floor logs should not be attached to wooden wall, and you don't have to hit it. It is advisable to fix the logs to the plinth or grillage of the foundation, retreating from the wall by a few centimeters. At the same time, the distance of the support, which falls on the foundation, must be observed at least 10 cm on either side of the log.

Legs are attached to the plinth

Before laying the logs on the foundation, you need to lay the lower harness, made of long thin boards, to which the logs will be attached using metal anchors (corners).

The lags should not be fixed rigidly to the harness - they only need to be fixed so that they do not travel while laying other layers of the subfloor. The created structure will have a few cm indent from each wall, where thin insulation can be installed.

Definitely need waterproofing

If the distance to the foundation is less than 10 cm, then it is better to crash into the walls, however, it will be necessary to initially lay the lags on the foundation, and then attach a log or beam to them. Measure the contour of the cutout and then cut out the necessary grooves in the wood with the dimensions necessary for the distance of the support (for subsequent expansion, the lag should be added about 2 cm).

Do not forget that the laying of beams and lags is carried out on the plinth or grillage only after laying the waterproofing layer.

Lags are attached to the foundation grillage

The standard step between the lags is 40-60 cm. However, its choice depends on the width of the insulation, as well as the direct load. The lag section is also selected from the current load. With a light section, choose 15 × 10 cm, with an average - 15 × 15 cm, with a heavy one - 15 × 20 cm.

If the beam has a small cross section, and the effect of the load is significant, then it must be placed at a distance of 30-40 cm - this is a fairly optimal option.

Installation of the subfloor on the logs

With the end of the laying of the log, the standard installation of the floor on the logs is carried out. It looks like this:

Between the insulation and the floorboard you need to leave a ventilation gap

Important! Boards, bars and logs should be treated with an antiseptic to prevent them from being exposed to various fungi and insects.

Subfloor plywood

A plywood floor will serve reliably for a long time. She has high strength. Plywood can even be used for final flooring, as if carefully sanded and varnished, it will look quite noble. However, it is more often used as a base for coating with laminate, parquet and linoleum.

Laying plywood on an old floor

Plywood can be laid:

On a cement base, but it is necessary to ensure the evenness and horizontalness of the base, or use adjusting racks.
Fastening on the logs. Here the difficulty is the exposure of the lags to ensure that the joints of the sheets hit them. Logs must be set so that their upper surface provides one horizontal plane. Engineering communications are hidden in the logs, insulation and sound insulation are laid.

Laying plywood on logs

Important! When laying plywood in one layer, it is necessary that its thickness be at least 15 mm, if in two layers, then you need to choose at least 9 mm for the layer.

All dust and debris must be removed from the subfloor before final laying of the plywood. It is also desirable to perform priming, that is, to process with a special primer.

Longevity and excellent aesthetic characteristics of the finishing flooring are provided by the subfloor in a wooden house, which is made using different methods.

A rough foundation is understood as a special structure necessary to form the most even platform for the finishing floor covering. Its second task is to ensure an even distribution of the load on the floor. The draft base can be equipped in two ways:

Dry - logs are used.
Wet - the leveling structure is created by means of a concrete screed.

Draft base floor

Among other things, the draft floor in a wooden house is mounted in order to increase the thermal insulation performance of the dwelling. In wooden buildings, the wet method of arranging the leveling base is used very rarely. Usually it is created using lag. In this case, the rough floor platform is mounted on the base or on the floors (their function is performed by thick beams or reinforced concrete slabs). Next, let's talk about how to properly make a preliminary floor using wooden elements.

Before starting the arrangement of the draft base, it is necessary to choose the method by which it will be mounted, and determine the amount of materials required. After that, a series of holes should be made in the corners of a residential building made of wood. round shape. They will provide effective ventilation subfloor and will increase the service life of both the subfloor and the finish floor. Holes will not spoil the look of your home. At the end of all the planned work, you simply disguise them with decorative ventilation grilles.

Then it is necessary to treat the entire underground space and the logs directly with an antiseptic composition. Laying a rough base on an untreated site is not allowed. It must be understood that a variety of microorganisms can appear on the elements of the subfloor during the operation of the building. If wooden logs are not treated, mold and fungus will quickly destroy them. And it is almost impossible to repair the preliminary foundation - access to it is either completely impossible, or very difficult.

hot resin - it protects both from the negative effects of moisture, and from a variety of pests;
solutions VVK-3, HHP or MHCC;
ammonium fluorosilicon;
chlorophos - it is most often used as protection against insects;
sodium fluoride.

Wood treatment products

All these compounds are safe for humans. They don't highlight harmful substances and at the same time they have the required indicators of wood hydroprotection. Do the processing with their help strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Note! Boards for the subfloor need to be processed only from the back. But on the logs themselves, crowns and beams, protective compounds are applied from all sides.

Additionally, it is recommended to treat the rough base with fire retardants. Specialized stores now sell universal compounds that simultaneously protect wood from fire, moisture and from the effects of microorganisms.

To install the platform under the floor finish, stock up on the following materials:

Wooden bars of the third or second grade - logs. In most cases, such products are characterized by a not very smooth surface. Therefore, they need to be slightly tweaked. Your task is to make their front side (the one on which the laminate, parquet board or other coating will then be laid) more or less even. Such an operation is performed with an ax. Naturally, nothing needs to be done with lags made from first grade wood. Such products themselves are very smooth.
Bricks for building pillars. The height of the finished supports should be at the level of 20–25 cm, and their dimensions are usually taken as 40x40 cm. The number of brick pillars is determined by geometric parameters wooden house and its floor base. Cement mortar supports are mounted.
Plywood or boards. With their help, the first and second draft layers are laid.
Film made of polyethylene or other waterproofing material. It is needed to protect the logs from decay.
Heat and vapor barrier material.

Installation of a platform for a floor finish

Also, the laying of the structure described by us is impossible without the use of fasteners. With brick supports, wooden logs are most often connected with 4x5, 5x5 cm bolts and steel corners.

How to do the floor - instructions for beginners

The design considered in the article can have two or one layer. If the beams are attached to the walls of a wooden residential building, the installation of a log is mandatory. In such a situation, the distance between the individual beam products is quite large. If the distance between the beams is minimal, the leveling base can be made directly on them.

Self-execution scheme installation work is:

Install brick pillars (they act as a support for the black base) or make a strapping from the boards around the perimeter of the room. If supporting elements made of bricks are used, roofing material must be laid on top of them.
Attach the logs to the base of the house. Fix them with bolts and metal corners (to brick supports) or (to wood trim).
When installing the log, leave 20 mm gaps near all wall surfaces. It will be possible to lay heat-insulating material in these slots. With a small distance of supporting the logs on the base of the house (less than 10 cm), they are installed in the same way. And then they press it with a fairly massive beam. It is fixed tightly in the walls of the building. The walls of the house and the sections of the joints of the beam are measured, after which an appropriate cut is made. It is advisable to take its dimensions a couple of centimeters more than those that you get as a result of measurements. Do not forget that the logs will expand slightly under the influence of moisture.
Install cranial bars at the bottom of the supports for the rough base. Then connect them with lags on the sides. The geometric parameters of such bars are always taken smaller than the dimensions of the main elements.
Mount on boards. You don't need to attach them. Wood will expand during use. Free placement of planks will not interfere with this natural process.
Lay a layer of waterproofing on the floor base. The chosen waterproofing material (for example, polyethylene film) should be fixed on the wall surfaces. On them, the waterproofer comes to a height that is equal to the height of all available levels of a feasible floor base (this indicator also includes the floor finish). Fasten the areas where the pieces of film are connected to each other with a construction stapler.
Lay a layer of thermal insulation. The height of the lag should be slightly greater than the thickness of the heat-shielding material. For wooden buildings it is allowed to use any materials for
Underfloor insulation layer
Next, cover the cake made with vapor barrier material. It is also fixed on the walls of the building with a stapler. The joints of vapor barrier products are glued with construction tape. If the heat-insulating material was laid clearly along the height of the log, thin slats should be mounted on their sides. They will hold the insulation in place. As a result, you will get a gap under the floor for ventilation.
Final work - laying plywood, boards, OSB-boards on a rough base. The installation of the second layer of the base is carried out in the same way as you installed the first part of the structure (leave gaps at the walls, place heat-insulating material in them, and so on). Fastening of boards, plates and sheets is carried out in increments of 10–14 cm using stainless steel screws.
As you can see, it is not difficult to equip a rough base with your own hands. Good luck with this!

Subfloor classification
Rules for laying the floor from the boards
Board floor insulation

A subfloor is a construction that is most often used before laying parquet, laminate, solid board. Such a floor is a construction of logs installed with different steps. You can do the floor with your own hands in 1-2 days, it is important to observe the horizontal surface here, and mount the logs themselves in increments of 60 cm to 120 cm - a lot depends on the material for the flooring. These can be boards, plywood panels, chipboard or OSB boards. The flooring is fastened with ordinary nails, the joints should fall on the surface of the log.

The subfloor is a log construction, which is designed for laying parquet or laminate.

Tools for work are needed:

building level;
a hammer,
electric planer;
screwdriver;
Ruler and pencil.

How to prepare logs for the subfloor?

Logs are made of wooden beams.

Floors with lags are universal. They are acceptable in terms of price and installation conditions. For laying the subfloor, special logs are used. They are made of wooden beams or boards, the width of which is 100-120 mm. Logs are mounted approximately at a distance of up to 500 mm from each other. If they are laid in an apartment on existing floor slabs, then their thickness can be only 50 mm, and the working width is 100-150 mm. For the device of the subfloor, you will need more boards or slabs, a layer of sound insulation, insulation.

When laying, the logs are placed on the edge, their height should be adjusted in such a way that during the laying a perfectly even coating is obtained.

Before installing the logs must be treated with impregnation.

It is important to protect wooden logs from insects and rotting even before work. For this, various impregnations are used. Modern antiseptic, as a rule, does not have a pronounced smell. A variety of substances are used as antiseptics for impregnation of logs - these are VVK-3, ammonium, sodium silicofluoride and others. All of them are diluted with water in the proportion specified by the manufacturer.

The composition on the logs must be applied in 2-3 layers, so that the processing is of high quality. First, it is recommended to process the damaged areas of the lag - ends and cuts. The relative humidity of the air in the room where the treatment will be carried out should be at least 80%. It is recommended to apply an antiseptic with a brush, you can use a roller or sprayer. First, the surface of all elements is covered with a brush, after which it is necessary to postpone them for 3-5 hours. Then a second layer of impregnation is applied, which should also dry out. Such drugs are chemical products, so the use of protective equipment in the form of gloves, face masks is required. After drying and sewing the floor, they will be completely safe and will not affect the state of health in any way, but care must be taken when working with them.

Beams for lags should be well polished.

The boards themselves must be carefully examined for their integrity, fungus damage. You can not take logs on which there are chips, knots, traces of damage. In addition to protection against mold, it is also necessary to protect the logs from insects. For this, sodium fluoride, sodium silicofluoride is used. All logs before laying must be processed so that they have a smooth and even surface. If it is possible to lay the flooring with grooves, then before installation they must be made with a milling cutter.

Floor boards are taken in the following sizes:

thickness - 28-36 mm;
width for the front of the board - 138 mm, 118 mm, 98 mm, 78 mm, 68 mm;
beam width - 55 mm, 45 mm, 35 mm, 28 mm.

Scheme of laying lags.

To ensure excellent ventilation of the floor, a recess of 2 mm is required. This will avoid many troubles, including damp boards, flooring.

Laying the lag itself is done in this way:

it is necessary to mark the upper level of the log around the perimeter on the walls;
start fixing the lag. For alignment, pieces of plywood, special fastener systems are used;
the height of the lag is adjusted, horizontality is checked;
if necessary, a layer of insulation is laid between the lags;
the floor is finished with boards or plywood boards.

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Subfloor classification

A single draft floor is a flooring of boards on logs.

All draft floors are classified according to the type of flooring:

single conventional floors;
double floors.

Single floors have only one layer of flooring, which is mounted on installed logs. The double floor has 2 decks:

finishing top layer, which is located under the finish flooring. It can also be used as the top coat itself, if the boards are pre-treated;
rough flooring.

A double floor involves two floorings.

All double decks are located at different levels, they can be made of:

ordinary boards (edged and unedged);
croakers.

Some floor elements with a thickness of 60 mm are not reinforced with nails, but simply fit into the grooves prepared for them or on the bars. The upper part of such beams must be carefully prepared, planed, then polished.

Making a subfloor with double decking is not so difficult:

the first is a rough flooring, it must be covered with a layer of mortar from clay or lime. After application, the solution must dry thoroughly;
sand or slag should be poured onto a dry surface, the height of the layer should be up to the middle of the beam. The sand is filled with lime mortar. After drying, the top flooring, which is called finishing, or clean, is attached to the beams.

To prevent the formed space between the board and the finished floor from getting wet, a pair of ventilation holes with dimensions of 10-15 mm can be installed in the corners. Openings are recommended to be closed with gratings. If the final floor is made of grooved floorboards, it is recommended to make grooves in them for ventilation and subsequent air circulation.

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Rules for laying the floor from the boards

Scheme of the subfloor on the logs.

The rough floor of the boards is not so difficult to fit. The first board must be mounted, not forgetting to leave a gap of 10-15 mm from the wall. It is recommended to fasten the boards with nails, the length of which depends entirely on how thick the floor boards are. Nails must be attached at every point where the deck boards and the base joists meet. This will ensure maximum reliability of the subfloor design.

It is necessary to drive in nails deeply, it is recommended to sink the hats themselves as much as possible, but the minimum depth should be 2 mm. After the first board is strengthened, it is necessary to proceed with fastening the second one, attaching it tightly enough to the ridge. To simplify the work, a conventional hammer, gasket is used. All boards must be laid in such a way that they are tightly connected along the crest, in which case the flooring will turn out to be reliable, able to withstand all loads.

If rough flooring is performed for parquet flooring, then the nails should be driven in at an angle. Outside, they are recessed, but there are no pits, as with a conventional mount. This improves the surface quality of the deck. When laying the boards, it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps left, therefore, it is required to press each individual board. After laying the first base, it is necessary to knock out all subsequent ones as tightly as possible. All boards are pressed in so that a bracket can be driven in between the last installed board and the wall. The edge board is driven in with a hammer and a wooden spacer. It is necessary to carry out this work carefully so as not to damage the adjacent wall. Experts recommend using plywood panels, which are easy enough to attach to the wall.

For the device of the subfloor, you can use ordinary unedged boards, but they will have to be processed independently, performing the following set of works:

shaping is required from the front side;
it is necessary to trim the edges along a strictly established line, you can use a template;
when the processing is over, you can start laying the flooring.

After installing the subfloor, it is necessary to check its quality, stability, then you can start laying the floor finish. But before that, it is necessary to mount hydro and thermal insulation.

A high-quality and beautifully made floor is half the success of the repair being performed. There are a great many variations of floor coverings: tiled, linoleum, parquet.

One thing they have in common is that they are all placed on the subfloor.

What it is? By and large, this is any leveled base on which the flooring is laid. Therefore, without any exaggeration, we can say that those who want to lay the floor in the house with their own hands should know the structure of the subfloor as a multiplication table.

Who wants to walk on creaky parquet, stumble over bumps under linoleum, or see furniture shaped like the Leaning Tower of Pisa?

How to make rough floors? It depends on the structural features of the house, and on what type of floor the developer chooses. According to the manufacturing technology, they can be divided into "wet" and "dry" methods of floor installation.

Dry way

Draft floor on logs. Lagi is wooden bars to which is attached batten or flooring.

The installation of this floor takes much less time than the manufacture of a cement screed coating, and is much easier. Plus, the installation is carried out without the use of water. This means that the humidity in the room does not rise, which allows you to conduct other Finishing work. Logs are placed on beams, or on a concrete base.

Installation of subfloors along the logs is not very difficult, but certain rules must be observed:

We produce horizontal floor markings. You can pull the cord across the lag at the level found, and proceed with the installation. Or throughout the work, constantly check the horizontal level.
Make sure that the wood to be worked on is well dried.
Place the simplest waterproofing under the logs to protect the floors from condensation that can form on a concrete base.
We determine the distance between the lags according to the expected load on future floors. For residential premises, this is 350-450 mm. The size of the lag varies: in width from 80 to 100 mm, and in thickness from 25 to 60 mm.
If the reinforced concrete floor is uneven, then the logs are fixed on linings. For this, it is most convenient to use pieces of plywood. So that the linings do not slip out from under the lag, they are glued together with glue (such as PVA) after determining the desired thickness.
A hole is drilled for the dowels in the base of the floor. A plastic dowel is hammered into the hole, after which the lag is screwed to the base with screws.
If necessary, use a heater.
Chipboard is most often used as subfloor flooring. For rolled floor coverings, it is better to take a solid slab. Under the laminate, you can take chipboard of medium hardness.

Draft floor on adjustable lags . This method of installation attracts more and more supporters. It is carried out with the help of plastic screw-racks, which are a development for our military industry.

They are very reliable and strong. Such floors do not creak, are quickly mounted (100 square meters in 2-3 days) and their verticality can be set like furniture legs. The lags do not touch the floor slab, which is undoubtedly a big plus.

It is mounted as follows:

Each lag is prepared separately. A hole is drilled in it. Where does the screw stand go.
The lag is placed in the required place. The distance from the wall to the log is 10 mm.
Fastening the log to the base begins with the extreme screw-racks.
The screw-stand is hollow. Through it, the base is drilled 45 mm deep, and a dowel is placed there. We hammer in the dowel nail. With a special tool, we adjust the desired position of the log, tightening those screw-racks that are necessary.
Further, everything is as on a regular floor on logs.

As a variation of the floor on adjustable joists, the floor is made of plywood on special bushings with internal thread. They are inserted into holes drilled with a pen drill. On a standard sheet of plywood - 16 holes.

It turns out that the sheet of plywood stands, as it were, on legs. At the same time, it withstands about 5 tons per square meter.

Draft floors with dry screed. They are convenient in that they equalize the unevenness of the floor well. And you can mount it all year round regardless of temperature.

The technology of the device is as follows:

A vapor barrier layer is laid on the base of the floor. Secure with adhesive tape. Near the walls, the film should rise to the level of the dry screed.
Then the backfill is laid: perlite, silica or quartz sand, slag, etc. The size of the granules is 2-5 mm, the moisture content is not more than 1%.
The backfill is leveled with a rail to the marked level.
Dry screed boards are laid: chipboard boards, waterproof plywood, gypsum fiber sheets. They overlap with each other.

Wet mounting method

Floor screed. This method is quite common, since the materials are relatively inexpensive and are always on sale.

Perform them as follows:

The base is cleared of debris. Lay hydro and thermal insulation.
With a step of 2 m, beacons are fixed - special steel slats. With their help, the horizontal screed is maintained.
The prepared solution is applied in portions, and leveled with a rule and a trowel.
A top coat is required if the finished floor is made of delicate materials. Most often, self-levelling compounds up to 15 mm thick are used.

self-leveling floor. This is the name of the rough floor, when the rough and finish screed are performed in one process.

A fluid solution is poured onto the prepared base (cleaned and primed) and leveled with a special spiked roller that removes air bubbles.

The thickness of such a cement-polymer floor is from 0.5 to 3 mm, so the drying time is much less than that of a cement screed - from several days to two weeks.

Draft floor in a wooden house

Features of his device:

The underground must be well ventilated and dry. To do this, holes for ventilation are arranged in the foundation. It happens that the soil in the basement is damp, then it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer of clay or concrete.

Waterproof the foundation with roofing felt, or other material with similar properties.

It is necessary to treat beams, crowns, logs, floorboards with an antiseptic. We must not be too lazy, and do it twice, with a break of 5 hours. Pre-wearing protective equipment.

Laying the subfloor in a wooden house is done using boards.

There are several methods for laying boards:

In the grooves of the beams. Beams resemble the shape of the letter "H"
Laying on the shoulders of the beams. In this embodiment, the beam is similar to the letter "T"
Laying on cranial bars. The most common method, because the simplest. The bars are nailed to the edges of the beams, and boards are placed on them.

Instead of boards, slabs can also be used. He is able to withstand the load from the insulation.

On top of the boards, waterproofing, insulation, and at the end - vapor barrier are mounted. The draft floor is ready.