home materials

Preparation of walls for the installation of interior doors. Do-it-yourself installation of interior doors: preparation of the opening, installation of the door and trim. Preparing the doorway

It can take place in one or two stages. If the door is installed in new house, in which the doorway does not require preparatory work, then in this case we can immediately proceed to .

Two step installation work front door takes place if you have to perform additional work to prepare the doorway. Usually this option is possible when replacing the old front door or when installing an additional front door.

I made sure of the above in my example. The doorway in my house is 900mm wide. The first door I installed had a frame width of 860mm. When I decided to install another, better and more reliable door, it turned out that the width door frame was 900 mm.

That is, in principle, the door could be installed, but there was no gap left to align the door, and there was also no gap that could be filled with high-quality mounting foam. I had to expand the doorway by 50-55 mm on one side.

Requirements for a doorway for installing an entrance metal door

After carrying out, it is necessary to once again conduct a control measurement of the doorway, since the recommended distance between its ends and the door frame should be within 20-25 mm.

Use a tape measure to measure the height and width of the doorway. If the gap between the ends of the doorway is less than 20-25 mm, then in this case we have to work to expand the doorway. In rare cases, it is necessary to perform work to reduce the doorway, this is mainly due to the fact that the work on dismantling the old front door was not carried out accurately. It may also be a consequence of the fact that when this door was installed, too wide gaps between the doorway and the door frame were filled with a cement-sand mixture, and when performing dismantling works this layer of the CPS was sprinkled.

When reducing the doorway, the principle of action is clear - in wooden house it is necessary to fix boards or bars to the ends of the doorway; in a brick house or apartment, you can reduce the doorway by performing additional masonry, for example, from silicate brick. Brick is used if the reduction in the doorway provides for a distance of more than 30 mm on each side.

If, to reduce the width of the doorway, the distance does not exceed 20-25 mm on each side, then in this case a layer of DSP with a reinforcing mesh can be applied to the ends of the doorway, which will also allow you to align the ends of the doorway.

When expanding the doorway, it is necessary to do the work carefully in order to achieve the most even ends and, most importantly, not to get a gap between the door frame and the ends of the opening more than the recommended dimensions, so that in the future you do not have to do additional work to reduce the doorway. To obtain a high-quality result when expanding the doorway, it is necessary to use special tools and fulfill a number of requirements that are provided for during this work.

So, for example, to expand the doorway in a wooden house, you can use a chainsaw. First, we draw a marking line from one edge of the doorway, as shown in photo (A). Next, using a chainsaw, along the marked marking line, we trim the end of the doorway along the entire length, as shown in the photo (A or B).

If it is not possible to cut along the entire height of the opening, then you can make cuts at a distance of about 20-30 mm from each other, as shown in photo (B) and use a chisel (axe) to remove parts of the tree between cuts. In this case, cuts can be made with a simple wood saw without using a chainsaw.

Note:If you expand the doorway in a wooden house by making cuts, then it is desirable that the cuts have the same depth.

When expanding the doorway using a chainsaw, it is important to follow safety measures so as not to get injured:

Use only a sharpened chain, and also follow the chain tensioning rules recommended in technical passport, these two requirements must be met so that the chain does not jam during operation and that it does not fly off the chainsaw bar.
It is necessary to work in protective glasses so that sawdust and small pieces of wood do not damage the eyes.

Repairs in the house will have an unfinished look without the installation of such an interior element as doors. They protect the living space from external negative factors, contribute to heat and sound insulation, bring coziness and comfort. Ordinary, at first glance, they differ in material, shape, color, design, have many classifications and types. Despite their differences, all doors require certain knowledge and skills to install them. This is a very painstaking and precise work for a team of two people. Despite the complexity of the work, installing doors with your own hands is quite within the power of anyone who skillfully handles the tool. The main thing is to do everything gradually, measuredly, without haste, observing the rules for installing doors.

Measurements, selection, purchase of doors.
Preparing the opening for installation new door.
Installation of hinges and lock on the door leaf.
Assembly of the door frame.
Installation of additional elements.
Fastening the door frame in the doorway.
Connecting the door leaf to the frame.
Fixing the structure with mounting foam.
Fastening fittings and platbands.

To perform the work you will need a certain tool:

hammer;
chisels 16 and 20 mm;
roulette;
crowbar;
level;
screwdriver and screwdriver;
wood saw with fine teeth;
miter box;
drill and perforator;
if possible, a milling machine, circular.

Materials for door installation:

door leaf and door frame;
door fittings (handles, hinges, locks);
mounting foam;
wedges;
nails, screws and dowels.

Plastered and prepared door slopes

Before you install the door, you should prepare the installation site. If there is old door, then dismantle it. To do this, with the help of a crowbar, avoiding strong and abrupt movements, we first remove the trim. Carefully lift and remove the old door leaf from the hinges. With the help of the same crowbar, we dismantle the door frame, to facilitate the process, we file the frame in several places with a hacksaw. Quite often in houses, the door frame was cemented. And to take it out, you have to break the cement with a hammer.

To facilitate the installation of the door, the slopes can be leveled and plastered. At the end of the preparation, we clean the doorway from construction debris. If the doorway has never been used, then you can immediately start measuring it.

Taking measurements, choosing, buying

To purchase the desired door, you will need dimensions in height and width, as well as the dimensions of the slopes of the doorway. Since in most cases the doorway has uneven edges, you should take measurements in several places and choose smallest size.

Laying flooring for correct installation boxes

Important! When taking measurements, you should take into account the gap between the door frame and the doorway. It should be 10-15 mm. It is recommended to install doors after laying the flooring, if there is none yet, then the height of the flooring and the gap between the floor and the door should be included in the dimensions. For a more visual measurement, you can put parts of the floor covering in the doorway. This is necessary in order to know the exact level of the floor, the free movement of the door depends on it. The gap between the door and the floor is usually 10 mm.

Now that the old doors have been dismantled, dimensions have been taken, and the slopes have been leveled and puttied, you can order doors. As a rule, doors have standard sizes, but if necessary, you can make an individual order based on the size of the doorway.

To choose the right doors, you need to know their types and purpose. For installation in the house, you should pay attention to the entrance, interior and, if necessary, kitchen doors.

We also choose according to the opening method. The most popular option is swing doors. Doors are made using approximately the same technology - this is strapping and internal filling. The power structure or skeleton of the door, where the lock is inserted and the hinges are attached, is sheathed with fiberboard, MDF or other material, and the internal space is filled.

There are several designs of doors - solid, paneled and smooth.

smooth doors, they are also panel doors, can be made with an outer layer of MDF and fiberboard, sometimes such doors are sheathed with plastic. They are usually painted, veneered or laminated. The price of such doors varies depending on the materials and method of sheathing. The most practical and affordable are the doors sheathed with laminate. Painted doors can be both cheap and expensive. It all depends on the type of material and the method of painting. The most expensive are doors lined with natural veneer.

Paneled doors are distinguished by their open construction and the presence of drawings, patterned carvings and stained glass windows. Such doors can be filled with glass, carved panels, and other materials. They are made from a solid array of precious woods or combined materials. Prices for panel doors depend on the type of materials. The cheapest and most affordable are made from soft woods, as well as from combined materials (MDF, HDF).

Solid wood doors made from precious woods. This affects primarily their price and weight, they are very high. The doors are covered with varnishes and various impregnations, thus they are well protected from damage by insects, fungi and mold.

Having selected the desired doors and received them, we proceed to the phased installation of the doors.

After the purchase, we unpack the door leaf, platbands, door frame, extensions, fittings. We carefully check everything for cracks, chips or other damage. As long as the lock, hinges or other door fittings are not embedded, the doors can be returned to the manufacturer.

Preparation of places for fastening the lock and hinges

Installing the door leaf on the floor for easy cutting with a cutter

Lock hole

Before assembling the door frame, mark and select with a cutter or chisel the place for attaching the hinges and the lock on the door leaf and vertical rack. To do this, we install the door leaf in a vertical position on the wide side in special stands. In order not to damage the canvas, the inside of the coasters is upholstered with fabric. We attach the lock and mark the place of its installation with a pencil. To make it convenient to use the lock, we install it at a height of 900 mm from the floor. To install the hinges, we measure 200 mm from the lower and upper edges of the door. We attach the loops and outline the place for milling. Using a hand cutter or chisel, we select the excess so that the hinges and the lock lie flush. We put them back and drill holes for self-tapping screws with a drill.

Finally, we apply the vertical post to the door leaf in such a way that there is a gap of 2-3 mm between the horizontal crossbar of the door frame and the door leaf. We mark the place where the hinges are attached and the place for the tongue of the lock and select the excess using a milling machine or chisel. Attach hinges and drill holes for self-tapping screws.

Important! Places for a lock and loops after sampling with a cutter or chisel must be varnished. In this simple way, the tree will be protected from moisture. It should be remembered that entrance and heavy doors are mounted on three hinges, and two hinges will be enough for interior doors.

Hinge and lock installation

When the places for the lock and hinges are selected by the cutter, you can proceed with their installation.

With loops, things are simple. They just need to be screwed to the door leaf.

mortise lock

Installing a lock, on the other hand, will require some effort. In order for the lock to become correct, it is applied to the side of the door and, as a stencil, holes for the handles are marked, stop valves and fasteners. Using a cutter or chisel, we select a place for the lock to the desired depth. Then we put it in place and fasten it.

Important! When choosing a lock, you should take into account the width of the door bar. The depth of the hole for the lock should not exceed 1/3 of its width, otherwise deformation of the door leaf cannot be avoided.

Starting to collect the door frame, we measure the height of the vertical racks and cut them with a miter box. Horizontal bars are made to the size of the door leaf.

Since the collection of the box requires a large free space, the collection process itself is carried out on the floor. In order not to accidentally damage the door frame on the floor, we lay two or three wooden slats under the racks for the entire length of the door leaf.

We attach the horizontal crossbar to the racks. The joints can be lightly tapped with a hammer for a better connection, and with the help of a screwdriver we fix the box, screwing the screws into the corner joints.

Important! There are doors with a ready-assembled door frame. The installation of these doors is very simple. IN this case the door frame is simply fitted into the doorway and fixed in it.

Fastening of additional parts

In the event that the width of the door is several centimeters less than the door slope, extensions should be installed. You can do without installing them, but then you will have to completely make slopes, and over time chips and dirt appear on them. Therefore, the installation of extensions in such cases is the best way out of the situation.

As extensions, strips of the same color as the door are used, with a thickness of 8 to 12 mm. When fixed, they form a small portal, with edges matching the edges of the wall.

Installation of the add-on is carried out as follows. Using a cutter or chisel, a quarter of 10x10 mm or 8x8 mm is selected in the door frame, depending on the thickness of the trim strips. We do this along the entire outer contour of the door frame. We cut the vertical slats of the extension along the height of the box, as well as the horizontal slat of the extension. We install the door frame in place and fix it, then we install the trim strips in the trimmed quarters. We attach the planks to the slope with dowels and self-tapping screws.

Installation of the door frame in the opening

Having completed the assembly of the door frame, we proceed to install it in the doorway.

Fixing the door frame with wedges from above

We put the box inside the opening and fix it with wedges, 2-3 wedges for each rack and 2 for the crossbar. Align the door frame vertically and horizontally. You can adjust the level of inclination with light strokes on the wedges. Now you can fix the box. To do this, we drill holes in the rack and wall with a drill or puncher. It remains to put the dowels and fasten the box with self-tapping screws.

Important! Wedges are best made from wood of the same density as the door frame.

Hanging door leaf

After installing the box, we proceed to hanging the door. First of all, we fasten the loops to the previously prepared places. For this, the so-called card (plate) detachable hinges with a removable rod or a rod embedded in the hinge are usually used. There are also one-piece hinges, but they are used less frequently. In the case of a hinged rod, the door leaf can be installed or removed by just gently lifting it to a small height of the rod. If the design of the door frame does not allow lifting the doors, one-piece hinges or hinges with a removable rod are used. To install one-piece hinges, simply fix them on the box, and then screw them to the door leaf. To install or remove a door leaf from hinges with a removable rod, you must remove the rod from the hinge and then insert it back.

Now that the hinges are hung, you can put the door leaf in place. It is best to do this together, when one person holds the doors in the air, and the second fixes the one-piece hinges with self-tapping screws or directs them into place in the case of collapsible hinges.

Important! When choosing hinges, you should pay attention to which direction the doors will open.

We fill the gap between the doorway and the frame with mounting foam, which increases the heat and sound insulation of the doorway. This material allows you to fill all the small cracks and crevices. The foam is easy to work with and easy to apply to any surface, and thanks to its astringent properties, the structure will be stronger.

Before filling the gap between the doorway and the door frame, the door frame should be protected from foam accidentally falling on it. To protect the box, it is pasted over with a film or masking tape. If, nevertheless, the foam has got on the door frame, then fresh foam can be cleaned with any alcohol-containing solution or solvent. But the hardened foam can only be removed mechanically, which is fraught with scratches and scuffs.

Mounting foam has the ability to increase in size from 50% to 250%, which can lead to deformation of the door frame. To prevent this from happening, spacers are installed between uprights or thick cardboard is laid between the already installed and tightly closed door leaf and the door frame. Shake the bottle thoroughly for at least one minute before filling with foam. For better adhesion of the foam to the surface, the opening and the outside of the door frame can be slightly moistened with water. The main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise the effect will be exactly the opposite.

For reinsurance against deformation and distortion of the door frame, it is better to apply mounting foam in two stages. For the first run, the foam is applied pointwise. After allowing the foam to harden, after 1-3 hours, you can fill the remaining voids. We cut off the excess mounting foam after it has completely hardened.

Important! In the case when the gap between the opening and the door frame is too narrow, the foam spray tube can be flattened a little, this will make it more convenient, and most importantly, fill all voids with high quality.

If the gap between the doorway and the frame is large, 8-9 cm or more, then we lay the free space with a suitable material (wood, drywall, etc.) and only then fill it with foam.

The vertical gap should be filled with foam, starting from the bottom and gradually moving up. Thus, the foam will create a support for itself. If there are extensions, additional spacers should be installed on them to avoid deformation.

Installation of platbands and door fittings

At the final stage of the door installation, the platbands are installed. First, we cut the platband in height, then we cut the upper edge of the vertical platbands at an angle of 45 degrees. We make the same trimming at 45 degrees for the horizontal casing at both ends. For these operations we use a miter box. You can fix the platband with small nails or universal mounting glue.

Applying glue to the trim

Installing a trim on a door frame

It is rather difficult to determine “by eye” the dimensions of the doorway, especially if platbands are installed. To measure the exact parameters, you need to remove the trim and clean the layer of plaster. You can do it yourself. To take into account all the nuances, it is better to call a professional measurer. When buying Torex doors, this service is provided free of charge.

The dimensions of the door block should be 4-5 cm less than the width of the opening.

In some cases, the opening can be widened or narrowed to "fit" it to the size of the door. It is also better to discuss this possibility with the measurer in advance. If there is a beam above the door, it must lie on the wall at a distance of at least 10 cm on each side of the opening.

Dismantling the old door

The dismantling of the old door must be carried out as carefully as possible. If you use impact methods (for example, a sledgehammer or a jackhammer), you can damage the wall or the integrity of the opening.

First of all, the door is removed from the hinges. Then you need to cut off the anchors or other fasteners that held the door frame, and carefully knock it out of the opening.

Expansion of the doorway

The distance between the door frame and the wall should be 1.5-2.5 cm on each side of the door. If it is smaller, the opening needs to be widened. To do this, you can use a grinder or puncher. We emphasize once again that the doorway should be at least 20 cm narrower than the beam located above it. Otherwise, it may lead to the collapse of the building structure.

opening narrowing

If the distance between the wall and the door frame is more than 2–2.5 cm on each side, the opening must be narrowed. The reliability of the installation of the door depends on this. If the opening is too wide, the door frame seems to hang in the air, not adjacent to the wall. This significantly reduces the reliability and service life of the structure, and the door itself becomes more vulnerable to intruders.

The method of narrowing the opening depends on the width of the gap. If it is large enough, it can be bricked up. A smaller gap can be reduced with a plaster mixture.

Another option for narrowing the opening is to install a metal frame. But the metal will serve as a cold bridge. To prevent the house from cooling through the doorway, it is better to insulate it additionally.

If the preliminary measurement of the door was performed correctly, and the door is sized, it will not be necessary to narrow or expand the opening. You can go directly to the process of preparing the opening. The technique of work depends on the materials from which the house is built.

Cleaning and leveling the opening

The wall surface is cleaned of the remnants of the mounting foam that was used to install the last door. Remove all anchors, nails, etc. They clean the plaster to the brick or blocks from which the walls are built, providing a technological gap of 4-5 cm.

To prepare the opening of a wooden building, you may need a hacksaw or chainsaw, as well as a chisel. The task remains the same - to clean the opening from all irregularities and worn-out elements.

If the beam under the threshold is rotten, it must be removed. destroyed brickwork also removed and re-installed.

You need to check the surface of the floor. If it is not horizontal, it is advisable to level it with a cement screed near the front door, which will also slightly raise the floor.

Repairing cracks in the wall

If cracks were found during dismantling, they are overwritten cement mortar. Deep cracks are clogged with pieces of brick, and then rubbed with cement. Cold enters the house through voids in the walls, so it is extremely important to eliminate them.

The technological gap between the wall and the door frame will be sealed with mounting foam, so the wall surface may not be perfectly smooth. Our task is to get rid of protruding elements that interfere with further installation, and voids in the wall.

Now that this work has been done, the opening is ready for the installation of the front door.

Do not rush to buy a new door and moldings if the work on preparing the doorway has not yet been completed. Key role in choosing the right components plays the exact measurement of the finished pass. What are the stages of the preparation of the opening for the installation of a new interior door?

10. Leveling and plastering a "bare" hole in the wall to an ideal U-shape using a level:

Then, when the opening has become perfectly flat, check it. The thickness of the walls on both sides should be the same, and it should not differ along the length of the doorway. The top line should be strictly parallel to the floor. The slightest alignment errors can skew the future door, so this moment must be taken with particular scrupulousness.

Good independent work dismantling and preparing for the installation of a new door will save a lot of money, so it makes sense to get to know this technique better. If you cannot trust yourself in such matters or do not want to spend time and effort on this procedure, then specialists can easily do this work for you. At the same time, a quality guarantee will be a worthy reason to shift the work to professionals.

Take measurements of the resulting opening and contact the experts who will help you choose the door and moldings of the appropriate dimensions. Note that the floor covering must be taken into account when taking measurements, as it also has a certain volume. By the time the door is installed, the floor should at least be leveled so that the height during measurements is the same in all areas of the opening.

It often happens that the doorway is not suitable for any of the standard doors. Due to the sawing of the canvas or the additional width of the extensions, it is not always possible to adjust the materials for the existing hole. Work on narrowing or expanding the opening itself can be done by employees of the company (depending on the complexity of the work), in which you purchase the door and fittings. For a situation where it is necessary to narrow the passage to install the door, save additional finishing materials, since the platbands are not always able to close the resulting gap between the opening and the frame.

At setting interior doors in the apartment should be carried out according to certain rules that customers should know. After all, about Mistakes in the repair and decoration of a room or apartment can seriously complicate installation and cost a pretty penny!

You will be able to reduce the cost of installation, avoid mistakes in the choice of doors and fittings, and help the craftsmen to do everything with high quality.

Door opening dimensions

opening width

The door leaf is usually 60/70/80/90 cm wide. The correct width of the opening is the width of the canvas +8 or +9 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is from 1.5 cm to 2.5), or +10 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is 2.5 cm and above ).

opening height

For all cases, the correct height of the opening is the height of the door leaf + 6 cm. from the finishing floor., i.e. 206cm. The doors to the bathroom can be 190 cm high, so the correct opening height is 196 cm.

Here are some examples of correct openings.:

Canvas 80x200(cm) - opening 89x206(cm)
70x200 - opening 79x206
60x200 - opening 69x206
60x190 - opening 69x196

The dimensions of the doorways must be determined in advance and it is very important to independently constantly monitor your team during the repair process.

Door width for different rooms

If you have the opportunity to plan the width of doors and openings in advance and have questions about what door width to choose, then follow these recommendations:

doors in rooms are usually made 80 cm wide in order to be able to bring in / take out furniture. Width 90cm. it happens very rarely, since such canvases are heavy and can eventually sag on the hinges.
the doors in the bathroom are usually made 60-70 cm so that washing machine 60cm thick. Keep in mind that 60cm. the door assembly has a clear opening of approximately 58cm. because of the porches in the door frame.
the door leaf to the kitchen is usually made 70-80cm. It should also be taken into account that the handles on both sides can interfere with the passage to the kitchen.
in dressing room usually make the width 60-70cm.

When do you need to install extensions?

When installing interior doors, if the wall thickness is greater than the thickness of the door frame, it is recommended to purchase. You can, of course, stick wallpaper on the ends of the walls, but it will look out of date, and there will be nothing to nail trim on the other side of the wall.

If installed, it will be a good solution that will beautifully decorate the slopes. The color of the extensions can be chosen, for example, under the MDF panel:

The width of standard extensions according to the warehouse program is usually 10/12/15/20 cm. If your walls are very thick (more than 20 cm), then the extensions must be spliced in width or non-standard extensions must be ordered at the factory, which will cost much more.

On which side of the door should the extensions be installed?

It depends entirely on how you planned the opening. Usually, if your door opens into a room, then the box is flush with the room wall, and the extension will be in the corridor, respectively.

If you do the opposite, the door will not open fully (it will rest against the extension). Sometimes they put up with this so that the doors look the same - ALL extensions to the corridor or all extensions to the rooms. Therefore, this is already a matter of convenience and design, taking into account the future arrangement of furniture in the apartment.

Scheme of opening interior doors

Usually, if in one corridor some of the doors will open into the corridor, and some into the rooms, the closed doors will look different due to the features of the door frame. If the doors are next to each other, and at the same time open one inward and the other outward, then the height of the upper trim will not match.

This is what the door looks like from the common corridor, which opens into the corridor, that is, towards us:
This is how the door that opens into the room looks like, that is, inside:
It is necessary to ensure that the canvas does not cover the switch when torn off. It is highly desirable that the doors do not intersect with their trajectories. The bathroom must be provided with a 180-degree opening for quick ventilation after taking water procedures.

Make sure that a door opened 90 degrees does not block the opening of an adjacent door.

In order not to waste time coordinating the opening of doors with the masters during installation, make a diagram on a piece of paper in advance.

How high from the floor should the door be?

Standard height - 1 cm from the finished floor. As for the doors of the bathrooms, it is not recommended to do less than 1 cm so as not to disturb the air flow. If you have plastic windows do not forget to make supply valves for air from the street so as not to increase the humidity in the apartment too much when the windows are closed.

Installation of interior doors during the repair of an apartment and the sequence of stages of work.

In order to protect the wooden parts of the doors from warping due to high humidity when carrying out repairs, it is necessary to do the installation after ALL finishing works, including the neighboring rooms.

Early installed doors may be accidentally damaged by tools during the repair process. Tile or wallpaper glue, especially plaster, dry for quite a long time, releasing moisture into the room. Humidity levels above 70% for several days increase the risk that doors will pick up moisture from the air, swell, and stop closing properly.

However, if you like to wash your bathtub or shower often, humidity is not a threat, as the bathroom is quickly ventilated.

Installation of interior doors should be done if you already have a finished floor!

Without doors, it is much easier to lay floor coverings, and then it is easier to install them, with a clear adjoining of the trim to the floor.

If you first install the box directly on the screed (main floor), then it is impossible to bring the flooring under the box, since it is already on the floor. In addition, it is difficult for the master to correctly calculate the lower clearance of the door from the subfloor, taking into account the future coating, especially if the floor has not been leveled.

If you did everything right and did the installation after laying the finished floor, it will not be difficult to replace the floor in the future - you just need to pull out the laminate or parquet from under the door pillars and slip a new coating. In this case, the racks will not fall, but will remain hanging.

What if the doorway is much higher (wider) than the box?

A common mistake of repair crews is too high openings, because the maximum height should not be higher than 208~209 cm, and 206 cm is better. from the floor covering.

Sometimes in new buildings standard opening can be 217-220cm high. This is due to the fact that many customers make underfloor heating and the height after their installation becomes standard. If no one paid attention to this during the repair, and a situation arose when the upper casing did not close the opening.

Solution: if your opening is higher than necessary, and there is no possibility to reduce the opening, glue the wallpaper lower before installing the doors, or order high capitals instead of the upper casing, but they are usually mounted from the side of the corridor. A more thorough way is to lower the height of the opening with drywall and wooden blocks and then glue the wallpaper.

Another option: if the platbands are flat, cut off at the joints at 90 degrees, and the upper platband is cut out of the wider extensions. Some customers get out of the situation this way. The disadvantage is that sometimes the additional strips are thicker than the casing, and that if you do this for all the doors in the apartment, it will look a little wild)).

If the opening is at least 2-3 cm wider than necessary from the sides, the foam joint will not have sufficient strength, and this is important, since the mounting foam helps maintain even gaps and ensures the overall resistance of the door to loads.

Solution: narrow the doorway with a wooden beam with a section of 3x5, 5x5 or at the repair stage using foam blocks and tile adhesive.

How to straighten a crooked doorway?

First you need to check the walls to the right and left of the opening for humps / depressions by attaching a long rule, an extension or a flat board to the wall. Especially often humps are found closer to the floor. Even one small hump will interfere with the tight fit of the casing to the wall.

To solve this problem, there is only one option: to plaster and level the walls. If you do not want or cannot level the walls in the entire apartment or wall, then do it only around the openings (about 50 cm wide) and paste the wallpaper.

Then you need to check the verticality of the walls using a laser or bubble level. The ends of the openings must be parallel, the walls must be even and strictly vertical. If the opening is curved, the walls are sloping, there are humps or depressions, act according to circumstances.

If you understand that the opening is a curve, and moves away from the vertical by more than 1 cm - you can level the walls with plaster according to the lighthouses, putting them on a vertical level and re-paste the wallpaper. As you already understood, this is the best and most difficult solution!

How to install a door in a curved opening?

But what if there is no way to level the wall? Let's say the wall in which the door is supposed to be installed is littered from the vertical by more than 1 cm per two meters of the height of the opening. Then you have three options:

Install the door frame along the plane of the wall, the architraves will fit snugly against the wall, but the door will also be tilted and, probably, will close on its own, slam, etc.
Install the box vertically in level, while the platbands fit in the upper part and move away from the wall by the amount of wall deviation from the vertical in the lower part (or vice versa), worsening the aesthetics.
Buy a door with telescopic architraves and install it straight, deepening a little into the wall and pulling out, where necessary, the architraves from the grooves. This is a good solution to the problem, unless you need to open the door 180 degrees, as opening the door leaf more than 100 degrees will pull out the hinges.

The choice is yours, in all cases there are minuses and there are pluses, because this is a compromise.

What if the door is close to the wall?

In such an opening, one wall is perpendicular to the other wall, and it is necessary to reduce the width of the architraves, and attach them close to the wall on both sides. But reducing the platbands in width, we still spoil appearance doors, see photo: However, there are several other options for solving this problem:

If the repair has already been made and wallpaper is glued to the walls, you can screw it to such a wall wooden beam section 3x6, 3x4 or 4x4 (no more). It becomes possible to install a whole platband close to the wall.
Increase the doorway at least 5 cm from the wall and cut off the same distance from the opposite wall of the opening at the repair stage. The platband will be located at a small distance from the wall, which looks much more beautiful.
Increase the doorway at the repair stage by 5 cm on both sides and order doors 10 cm less wide, for example 70 cm. instead of 80cm..

Setting the interior threshold

The door leaf is located in the opening closer to that part of the wall where the door will open, so the threshold covering the floor joint when closed door should be located under the door leaf and then it will not be visible when the door is closed, see photo:

A common mistake of repair teams is the wrong location of the sills! To avoid such a mistake, draw a scheme for opening all doors in advance and give it to the foreman before laying the finishing floors.

Installation of interior doors in the bathroom

For living rooms and kitchens, it is recommended to order doors 2 meters high. For bathrooms in new homes, a canvas 1 m high is often required. 90cm due to the presence of waterproofing and special high thresholds. If you missed this moment and did not order doors with a height of 190 cm, then you need to expand the opening in height or, alternatively, you can shorten the door.

If you increase the opening in height, then the upper mark of the doors to the bathroom and interior doors will be at different levels. If the door is cut from below, then the panel pattern is lowered. Therefore, sometimes it is better to order smooth doors for bathrooms.

A common mistake is the threshold to the bathroom from a wooden door frame, as the aesthetics and ventilation of a wet room are violated, and in the future, mold may appear.

Preparation of openings for interior doors

Mounting foam will not be able to stick if there is a lot of dust on the ends of the doorway. It is necessary to remove dust or prime the ends of the walls of the opening if they are covered with gypsum putty or if the walls are made of gypsum / aerated concrete blocks.

If there are open round cavities and voids at the end of the opening, they can be repaired with plaster, leaving marks with a pencil so that the master does not drive fasteners into them. Holes for door frame fasteners are drilled between these cavities into lintels.

If the walls of the opening are made of drywall, then in a metal profile at the vertical ends of the opening necessarily you need to lay a dry wooden block. It is needed for reliable fastening of doors to self-tapping screws through the hinges and the counterpart, and it also stiffens the walls in the area of the opening. Doors installed in openings without reinforcement are doomed to short-term operation and quickly sag.

If a bar is laid inside the metal profile and the ends are not sewn up with anything, then this is not correct. Foam does not adhere well to galvanized metal. Over time, flaking is possible. To avoid this, GKL or GVL strips or plywood are screwed to the ends. Foam adhesion to these materials is excellent.

It is not allowed to leave voids between the sheets of drywall in the upper part of the opening. The fact is that the upper box is often strongly bent or bent when wedging, and to straighten it, for example, with the help of foam, a filled end of the wall is required.

Preparation of opening for sliding doors

For those wishing to install sliding sliding doors, the opening height for standard door should be approximately 202 cm. and the width of the opening should be equal to the width of the door leaf or a couple of centimeters wider. In the process of finishing the opening with extensions and platbands under the portal, its dimensions should become smaller than the door leaf.

At a height of 207 cm. up to 212cm. there should be no voids from the floor in the opening, since a wooden bar with a section of 5x5 cm and a length of about 190 cm will be horizontally fixed here, to which an aluminum top rail with rollers will be attached.

Finishing the doorway (portal) in the apartment

If you do not want to install an interior door, you can install a portal instead. This solution increases the space in a small apartment, so this is a win-win option for visually combining adjacent rooms: a hall and a living room, a corridor and a dining room, a living room and a small kitchen. A doorway without the usual door surprisingly transforms the room:

Preparing the floor before installing doors

A common mistake repair teams make when laying floor coverings when the gap between flooring and the wall in the area of the platbands exceeds the thickness of the platband. And you just need to remember to make it no more than 3 mm. in the area of platbands.

A recess (strobe) can be made in the wall near the floor to compensate for possible expansions of the floor covering.

Storing doors after purchase

To prevent deformation under the influence of gravity, the canvas, boxed timber and trim must be stored on a flat surface before installation. Doors can be placed on their side against the wall.

Doors, architraves and boxes can change their dimensions after changes in humidity. Due to the set of humidity after the cold in the warmth, before installation, it is necessary to store the door and the moldings indoors for several days. Do not remove the packaging from the doors in advance until the temperatures have completely equalized.

Which loops to choose?

If the canvas weighs up to 20 kg., Then it is optimal to buy 2 loops of 10 cm high.
If the canvas weighs from 20 to 30 kg., Then you need to buy 2 loops of 12-12.5 cm. height
If the canvas weighs more than 30 kg, then you need to buy 3 loops of 10 cm. height

The hinges are hung at a distance of 20 cm from the top and bottom of the door leaf. The thickness of the metal and the absence of backlash are very important. If the thickness of the hinge metal is 3 mm, then these are good hinges, a thickness of 2-2.5 mm is much more common. It is very good if the hinges are made of brass, steel. The most common door hinges come in several types:

universal hinges- these are traditional, mortise loops familiar to all of us. If the choice of hinges is not a fundamental point, buy universal hinges. They can open both to the right and to the left. In addition, universal hinges have a longer service life.

- not mortise, overhead loops. Easy and simple to install. They got their name for a special unusual design - both of its elements in the open state resemble butterfly wings. In the process of closing the door leaf, one part of the hinge easily enters the other, forming a single whole. Usually such hinges are placed on lightweight doors.

- mortise hinges proven by time, the door with such hinges is simply removed if it opens 180 degrees. There are right and left depending on the opening of the door

How to choose locks and latches?

Locks and latches are best chosen based on the quietest operation of the mechanisms when opening and closing and their reliability. Magnetic locks are quiet, but not all, they need to be bought more expensive and preferably Italian, there are very quality options. Do not save on them, so as not to suffer later.

Cheap latches with plastic tabs are not always of high quality, here you must first ask around with knowledgeable people (not sellers), and not buy too suspicious options. It will work quietly for six months, and then it will suddenly start to rattle. Sometimes such cheap magnetic locks and latches do not work immediately after installation. Door installers are well aware of these models.

You can buy classic latches / locks. It is best to choose them with plastic reeds, as they are the quietest in operation and do not clang like metal ones.

Sometimes it happens that the new latch works hard. In this case, put a couple of drops of silicone grease on the lock tongue.

Door handle height from floor

For Europe - 95 cm. Many symmetrical doors are now being produced, in which the handle according to the design of the door should be located strictly in the middle of the leaf. Therefore, the standard handle height for Russia is 1 meter.

Almost all models door handles come with too long screws, which, when screwed into the door, can jam the lock or lead to its unstable operation. Door installers almost always screw on the handles with their self-tapping screws.

How to choose the right master for installing an interior door and check the quality of his work?

How to do right choice so as not to be left with hopelessly damaged doors? Will the work be done with high quality if the door installer is in doubt? Let's first find out how best to check the work of the wizard and analyze everything point by point.

How to check the work of the door installation wizard?

Look at the quality of tie-in locks, joints of the box and trim, tie-in loops. The cracks must be absent.
The tongue of the lock must fit into the striker without play.
The canvas should fit evenly along the entire length to the porch or rubber seal. When closing the door, the elastic should not be jammed with the canvas
The gaps between the door and the box must be even along the entire length.
The box is fixed in the opening not only with building foam, but also with fasteners
The canvas should not close or open on its own.
Hardware must rotate freely.
The price may rise only because of the increased volume of work that cannot be foreseen in advance.

How to choose a door installer? Basic ways.

1. The master must narrowly specialize in installing doors! It is necessary to watch or see the work live (with friends in the apartment). The craftsman or team must have at least 1 year experience and must be professional: a miter saw, a sawing table or a hand-held circular saw, milling cutters, a screwdriver, a drill, a perforator, a hairpin gun with a compressor, templates for fittings, etc. Read