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How to make a kitchen set with your own hands. Do-it-yourself kitchen set, design, manufacture, assembly Do-it-yourself kitchen set projects

To make with your own hands wooden furniture to the kitchen, first you need to decide what kind of wood you will work with as the main material. Modern market offers more than 40 types of wood - hard and soft. Solid ones include oak, beech, walnut, yew - their wood is more durable, but it is also more difficult to process them, so they are ideal for the manufacture of solid arrays and slabs. Of the soft ones, you can choose pine, spruce, poplar - they have a smaller margin of safety, but they are easy to process and can be used to design shelves, small cabinets and individual decorative elements. And, of course, the selected material must be of high quality, thoroughly dried and dense, without knots, cracks and layers. AT wooden house a DIY kitchen made from the same type of wood as the house itself will look especially good.

Step two. We choose a project and take measurements.

In choosing a project, you can rely on your own imagination or trust professional designers. In addition, you can use Internet resources and choose one of standard projects taking into account the dimensions of your kitchen and your wishes.

To take measurements, we clean the kitchen space and take a tape measure. Measurements are taken at 3 points - near the ceiling, at a height of 5-10 cm from the floor and at shoulder level. By the way, it is at this stage that it is already important to know what kind of wood set you will create - if it is ordinary straight furniture, then we will get by with one tape measure, but if angular structures are planned, then it would be better to use a laser rangefinder.

Thus, we calculate the total amount of material required in square meters, not forgetting the back and bottom surfaces, doors, finishing elements, and so on.

Step three. We buy materials, prepare tools.

Having decided on the material and its volumes, you should take care of the tool. AT this case to make the kitchen step by step, you will need:

- electric drill and electric jigsaw;

– rule/level;

- construction meter / laser rangefinder;

- file, screwdriver, pliers and hammer;

- hacksaw;

- screwdriver;

- emery material / planer;

- a jig with a drill for holes for dowels.

Step four. We make sketches and necessary drawings.

Again, you can try to do everything yourself or resort to the services of 3D design specialists, as well as independently use one of the existing graphic design programs - PRO100, AutoCad or Basis Furniture Maker. (To save money, you can contact the students of specialized institutions - you can get unique drawings for a reasonable price).

Step five. We prepare and collect parts.

First, we cut out the base of the furniture from a solid array, process the surface and ends, drill holes for fasteners. It is advisable to mark each sawn part in some way, so that later during assembly you do not get confused in them. Cutting accuracy is very important - even a few millimeters of error can play a bad role, but the parts will still be polished, which will also slightly reduce their dimensions.

After the main grinding, you can start assembling furniture. We distribute all parts into upper and lower, main and additional. We form the main frame, look at the tightness of the flaps. For example, you can organize the assembly on dowels and euro screws using a Phillips screwdriver and a screwdriver.

If everything fits together, there are no gaps and inaccuracies, we disassemble the furniture, subject it to final fine grinding, treat it with antiseptic solutions and varnish each part separately, preferably in three layers.

When everything dries, we assemble the entire structure and install it in the prepared place. First, cabinets are hung at the top, then the main furniture and lower structures are installed according to the level, fittings are screwed and hung, and a cornice is mounted if desired.

Beautiful wooden table for the kitchen - do it yourself!

For a better understanding of the process, you can consider in detail independent production dining table (pictured).

To do dinner table with your own hands, edged boards will come in handy. If you want to have a table made of solid wood in standard sizes of 0.6x1 m in your kitchen, then you will need about 4 boards 50x150 mm. Excellent material the table will be oak or beech, but if you are a beginner, it would be better to prefer spruce or pine, they are easier to work with.

Scheme of work on the tabletop.

1. We mark and cut the boards at a right angle to align them in length.

2. Properly arrange the wood (alternating boards, the rings of which increase downwards with those in which they decrease, will avoid significant gaps after the boards dry).

3. We process the ends with a jointer.

4. We connect the structure in one of the ways: with nails, self-tapping screws, glue, furniture dowels and the like at your discretion.

5. If glue was used, dry the surface until the characteristic traces disappear.

6. Once again we process with a jointer, and after that with sandpaper, we round off sharp corners.

Let's move on to the table legs.

You can make them from the same edged boards. We choose an arbitrary form. The usual working height from the floor level to the countertop is about 80 cm. We make one leg for example and, using this sample, we cut three more of the same with an accuracy of a couple of millimeters. If you want sophistication and sophistication, the legs can be processed with a milling cutter.

Further, the legs are set around the perimeter and connected by jumpers, which are made of timber or boards and fastened under the table with glue or dowels. Similarly, legs are attached to the jumpers to the table top.

In the final, we process the table with stain and open it with varnish in 2-3 layers. Once dry, your new kitchen table is ready to use!

For beginners, it will be useful to familiarize yourself with the training video.

Designing and building a kitchen set with your own hands is not as difficult and problematic as it might seem from the first minute. Of course, it will not be possible to assemble a facade of furniture quality, this requires considerable experience and special equipment, but it is quite possible to make a kitchen set for a summer residence with your own hands. The question rests only on the availability of a sufficient amount of resources and free time.

The order of work, how to build a headset competently and reliably

Before you make the first kitchen set with your own hands, it will be useful, first of all, to evaluate your strengths. The fact is that kitchen furniture can be made in two ways:

Like a built-in kitchen set placed on a pre-assembled wooden frame. The built-in headset is easier to manufacture, requires fewer resources, and the process itself takes a maximum of several days of work;
The prefabricated set is, in fact, an exact copy of factory kitchen furniture, with the only difference being that we make a kitchen set with our own hands from glued spruce boards with a hand carpentry tool, without furniture lamination.

Frame versions of headsets are distinguished by a huge load-bearing capacity. Due to the frame and the absence of adjustable legs-supports, kitchen furniture is very durable and stable. On shelves and drawers, you can put twice or three times more kitchen utensils than in a classic typesetting or modular set. And even after 20 years of operation, the cabinets will not sag, and the lower tier in the kitchen set will not bend with an arc due to an exorbitant or uneven load on the countertop.

But the modular scheme has its advantages. For example, if the frame in the event of a breakdown is very long and difficult to repair, then for a typesetting scheme, the problem of how to repair a kitchen set with your own hands is solved in a couple of hours. It is enough to unfasten the ties and pull out a cabinet or cabinet that needs repair.

Choice of drawing and materials

Regardless of which method is chosen for the manufacture of furniture, before making a kitchen set with your own hands, you need to select drawings for the product or make them yourself, preferably with the maximum degree of detail.

One of the options for how to sketch and calculate the dimensions for a kitchen set with your own hands is shown in the video.

The set of drawings should contain three main documents:

Assembly sketch, which reflects all the nuances and dimensions necessary to understand how the kitchen set is assembled;
Detailing or schematic drawing for each detail;
General list and image of blanks for each module or built-in cabinet.

As a material, it is best to use a simple and non-deficient spruce glued panel, dimensions 600x1200 mm, 30 mm thick. For wireframe you can use any timber and the same spruce panel, but more modest in size, 400x600 mm. Of course, before starting work, the material must be impregnated with protection against woodworms and coated with a protective varnish.

We build a frame set with our own hands

Traditional built-in models kitchen sets made in the corner. This made it possible to strengthen the structure and at the same time increase the supporting area of the kitchen facade.

The kitchen set is assembled in the following order:

Frame assembly;
Tabletop installation;
Making boxes and hanging doors on bedside tables and cabinets;
Wood tinting, finishing operations.

With dimensions of 200x250 cm, the average manufacturing cost is about 50 thousand rubles. Skeptics may say that for this amount you can buy something similar in any of the companies that make furniture from chipboard. But in practice, to independently make a kitchen set with your own hands, a photo, means a guarantee of quality and a minimum risk of rework.

For the frame we use pine timber, carefully dried and varnished. First of all, you need to assemble the upper tier, cut off a 90 cm piece from a 50x50 mm beam and sew it vertically with dowels, along the corner line of the wall.

With the second run, we sew the left and right horizontal bars of the frame. In order to hold the table top of the headset, it is necessary to use a starting bar, at least 20 mm thick and 10 cm wide. Further, the lower box is assembled from a 20x100 mm board, it can be laid directly on the floor, provided, of course, that tiles or any other flooring, on which the kitchen set will be based, have a waterproofing sublayer.

The next action on the assembled L-shaped box is vertically installed partitions made of spruce panels, which will later form the power frame of the lower tier of the kitchen set. To sew the partitions to the previously installed starting strips, an angular cutout is made at the corners of the panels or drank in the form of a 60x20 mm rectangle.

After aligning the panels, a second pair of horizontal strips is stuffed. The frame of the kitchen set is ready, you can proceed to laying the countertops.

Worktop for kitchen furniture

The most expensive part of a homemade kitchen set. The cost of one set will cost about 15-20 thousand rubles. For frame construction, it is best to use laminated chipboard with glued ends.

A pre-purchased slab 60 cm wide and 4.5-5 m long is marked out for cutting into two equal parts. The left part 2.5 m long is laid first on the frame. silicone sealant without mechanical fasteners.

The second part of the kitchen worktop fits into the end with the letter L, while the cut line can not even be cleaned. The joint line, like all similar parts in the headset, will be sealed and covered with an overhead molding.

We equip the set with a sink, drawers and doors

Until the main elements are installed on the frame headset - drawers and shelves, it is necessary to perform installation work with sink, plumbing and sewer connection. Of course, until the frame headset is fully assembled, all communications remain muffled.

The sink is installed on the kitchen worktop last. In order not to tear off the thin laminated film, we glue transparent adhesive tape along the marked cutout line.

Using a jigsaw, cut out an oval window;
We coat the walls of the cut with silicone;
We install and upset the sink bowl.

To install the work boxes of the headset, you must first fill the wooden slats-runners, along which the boxes with kitchen utensils will slide out of the body of the headset.

Each box is assembled on a pre-prepared rectangular template, the sides and back wall are made of a wooden plank, the bottom is made of plywood. The only difficulty that can be encountered when making a frame kitchen set is the need to manufacture door facades and drawer front panels.

It’s obviously not possible to cut them beautifully by hand, so that a home-made kitchen set looks at the factory level, obviously it won’t work, so this part of the detailing will need to be ordered or bought ready-made.

We make a modular kitchen set

A stacked kitchen set is built much longer and more difficult. If the kitchen furniture includes a lower supporting tier and a set of hanging drawers, then the whole work will take at least 5-10 days, depending on the size and complexity of the finish of the headset.

Material preparation

Before cutting and cutting the purchased panel material into a set, it is necessary to reject the plates, throw away all knotty, crooked panels. Material with small cracks is sent to auxiliary purposes, for example, to cutting the internal shelves of a kitchen set.

The rest of the panels are cut according to the available sketches and drawings. Upon completion of cutting the blanks, the ends of the front parts of the future kitchen set are sealed with polyurethane tape, and the surface is polished to a matte finish.

One of the best auxiliary materials on how to make a do-it-yourself kitchen set is shown in the video.

Step one, we build boxes and cabinets for headsets

If the cutting of the blanks is done correctly, without deviations from the calculated dimensions, then the assembly operations in the manufacture of cabinets and cabinets turn out to be no more difficult than if you assemble a purchased factory kitchen set.

For example, a hinged kitchen drawer is made in the following order:

After assembly, the corner edges must be carefully cleaned with fine sandpaper in order to avoid burrs and remove the protruding edge of the sidewall.

Drying cabinet assembly

The details of the lower tier are assembled in the same way as a wall cabinet, but the assembly work has its own nuances. Most kitchen sets are equipped with dryers or drying cabinets for dishes. Making a kitchenware dryer requires correct installation additional equipment - gratings and pallets.

The body of the drying cabinet is assembled on self-tapping screws. Since the kitchen set must be installed with a ten-centimeter gap from the floor, support legs are attached to the bottom of the box, the front ones are made of chrome-plated steel, the rear ones are made of impact-resistant plastic.

The dryer itself can be made on its own from a steel mesh, but this option is not always suitable. If you make a kitchen set at a professional level, then it is best to use a ready-made set of parts for a dryer with a closer.

The principle of operation of such a device is not much different from a drawer. The only difference is that instead of a wooden box, it slides in and out metal grid with compartments for dishes, and a built-in mechanical closer helps to push a heavy loaded dryer all the way into the cabinet.

The first step is to mark on the inner side of the vertical walls two lines of fastening of the skids with a closer and fasten the supporting parts to the walls.

Note! The closer is used for inertial finishing of the drawer and shock-free closing of any retractable object built into the kitchen set.

And at the end of the assembly, we attach the front panel to the front of the retractable dryer.

As a result, a drying compartment is obtained in the kitchen set, which is no different from a factory dryer.

Making a metabox

Most kitchen utensils are stored in the headset in drawers. Therefore, it is difficult to imagine how, when making a kitchen set, you can do without a dryer with a drawer compartment.

For a dryer, an improved version of a drawer, also referred to as a metabox or a metal box, is best suited. In fact, this is an ordinary box with metal sides and roller bearings.

The basis for the metabox is a cut-to-size plywood bottom. The rear wall of the box, also made of plywood, is attached to the rear edge of the workpiece.

The fastening is very simple, but it should be carried out very carefully and carefully so as not to go beyond the boundaries of the box, otherwise the crooked metabox will spoil the whole impression of the beautiful facade of the kitchen set.

The next step is to fix the metal sidewalls with roller bearings using self-tapping screws. At the bottom of the bedside table, into which the metabox will be inserted, we install guide rails. It remains to perform one of the most delicate operations, making a kitchen set. It will be necessary to fix the front panel of the metabox in such a way that it covers the lower edge of the bottom of the cabinet. At the same time, the gap between the upper edge of the metabox panel and the front of the dryer was no more than 2 mm.

Headset locker screed operation

A coupler of several hanging boxes into one monoblock is used in order to give the kitchen set higher rigidity. Preparation and marking is carried out "on the ground", the screed itself is carried out at the time of hanging the boxes on the wall.

Previously, the upper tier of the kitchen set is laid out horizontally on a flat table surface.

Kitchen set, lower tier

Much more laborious is the assembly and screed of the lower tier of the kitchen set. The assembly process begins with the installation of all cabinets and cabinets on a flat horizontal surface.

First, by rotating the support legs, the headset is leveled in height. The absence of distortions is controlled using the building level. Once all the cabinets have taken the desired position, the entire structure is fixed with several construction clamps.

After the final alignment and fixation, M5-M8 holes are drilled in adjacent walls, tie-down pairs are installed and tightened to working condition. The entire kitchen set by design turns into a monoblock.

The issue of installing the countertop must be resolved only after the plate has been fitted and installed without gluing in the draft version. For home-made kitchen sets, only the option of making countertops based on laminated chipboard or waterproof plywood is possible. Cut out a window for installation in the sink set and hob It is possible only after the installation of water and gas communications is completed.

Conclusion

Planning and making a kitchen set with your own hands is quite within the power of an ordinary amateur carpenter of average qualification. Despite the fact that some components for a kitchen set have to be purchased ready-made, it is more economical to build cabinets and tables than buying ready-made factory furniture for the kitchen.

A well-designed drawing of the kitchen is the guarantor of the prompt and trouble-free assembly of furniture. A detailed project of a kitchen set with dimensions will help to avoid common mistakes during installation. The article contains practical advice professional furniture makers, answers to frequently asked questions from beginners, ready-made drawings of standard and corner kitchens, as well as well-calculated detailing of the main types of cabinets.

The dimensions of the kitchen set are dictated by the dimensions of the premises, the nuances of the location of communications, doorways, windows, niches and ledges. Therefore, it is extremely important to make accurate measurements, indicating all the elements on the plan.

Form measurements:

When developing a kitchen project, one should take into account the dimensions of household appliances, countertop standards, acceptable cabinet dimensions (height, width, depth).

Information about the dimensions of the equipment is in technical passport prepared by the manufacturer.
Standard sizes of countertops made of laminated chipboard:
height: 28 and 38 mm;
length: 3050 and 4200 mm;
depth: 600, 800,1200 mm.

Standard sizes of kitchen cabinets

The height of the upper tier varies between 70-90 cm in increments of 5 cm.

Height of the lower tier of the kitchen: 850 or 900 mm. Depth of the lower cabinets: 500 mm - in this case, the overhang of the tabletop will be 4 cm in front (above the facades) and 6 cm in the back.

The depth of wall cabinets is 30 cm, excluding doors.

Standard width of kitchen cabinets: 300, 400, 500, 600, 800, 1000 mm. Standard for mesh-cargo (bottle): 150, 200, 300 mm. Hood cabinet width: 600, 700, 900 mm.

Overall dimension of the lower corner cabinet: 800x800 or 900x900 mm.

Upper corner cabinet: 550x550 or 600x600 mm.

Arrangement of standard cabinets in a direct kitchen

Drawing of a standard set of furniture for a direct kitchen

Arrangement of standard lockers in corner kitchen

Drawing of a standard corner kitchen with horizontal hanging drawers

Design principles for custom cabinets

If it is not possible to use standard sizes kitchen cabinets, you must independently create a drawing of each cabinet separately, taking into account the nuances of the room. Some options when custom furniture is needed:

Ledges or niches in the wall. In this case, the depth of the cabinet changes depending on the size of the wall deformation. That is, if there is a niche of 200 mm behind the proposed furniture, it is quite possible to increase the depth of the cabinet by 150-180 mm. If, on the contrary, there is a protrusion behind the back wall of the furniture, then the depth should be made less.
The presence of communications, sockets. Here you need to make sure that there is free access to important communication nodes (joints, connections, ventilation grilles, valves, taps, etc.) and to the free use of the outlet for its intended purpose. To do this, a schematic representation of objects is first placed on the kitchen drawing, and during the design of each cabinet, they are drawn with a dotted line on the back wall. The dotted line is an option for indicating places for cutouts during assembly and installation.
Individual idea, complex configurations of furniture, etc. In this option, each piece of furniture is developed individually with a separate drawing. It is desirable to draw all complex connections in close-up.

Ledge in the wall: rough drawing of the lower kitchen cabinet

Drawing of a hinged drawer with a recessed rear wall under gas pipe

Examples of kitchen sets with dimensions

Building and designing a kitchen is always based on overall dimensions premises. After all the strategic objects (pipes, sockets, protrusions, etc.) have already been placed on the drawing, you can proceed to the arrangement of cabinets for household appliances. Next, you should place standard furniture, and only then - non-standard designs.

Ready-made projects of direct kitchens

When developing your own kitchen drawing, you can rely on ready-made kitchen projects with dimensions, while correlating the actual dimensions of the room with those indicated in the sketch.

Standard kitchen set with dimensions:

Drawing of a direct kitchen with non-standard cabinets:

Variants of drawings of corner sets

Standard corner kitchen with dimensions:

Standard corner kitchen with dimensions

Designing a kitchen with a trapezoidal corner element:

Drawings of a custom-sized corner kitchen:

Detailing of the main kitchen cabinets: drawings and dimensions

The calculation of detailing is made taking into account the thickness of the chipboard.
The standard thickness of laminated chipboard for the manufacture of kitchen furniture is 16 and 18 mm.
The lower kitchen drawers are mounted on adjustable supports 10 cm high.
The support bar (lower plinth) is recommended to be made in one piece - inseparable for the entire kitchen set.
The detailing and drawings of the kitchen below are designed for chipboard 16 and a 28 mm worktop.
The height of the lower tier is 850 mm, taking into account the countertop, the upper one is 720 mm.

Cabinet for built-in oven

Cabinet under the sink

The width of the cabinet varies depending on the length of the sink.

Drawing of kitchen cabinet for sink 800 mm

Drawer cabinet

The width varies according to the size of the room or the wishes of the customer.

Sketch of a cabinet with 4 drawers, size 400x500

Bottom cabinet with hinged fronts

The size can be varied in width within 300 ... 1000 mm.

Drawing of a kitchen cabinet with two doors, width 600

Corner cabinet: two options

Sketch of the L-shaped corner section 900x900

Drawing of the lower corner pedestal in the form of a trapezoid 900x900

Cabinet for telescopic hood

The width of the cabinet varies depending on the width of the hood, the height is calculated according to the dimensions recommended by the appliance manufacturer.

The project of a hinged kitchen cabinet for a standard telescopic hood 600 mm

Wall cabinet with hinged fronts

Drawing of the top drawer with hinged facades 800x720

Hanging corner cabinet: two options

Drawing of a corner L-shaped cabinet 600x600

Sketch of a trapezoidal corner top cabinet 600x600

FAQ: answers to common newbie questions

How to take measurements of the kitchen yourself?

It is necessary to measure the room at different heights: at floor level; in the area of the working surface (850 ... 900 mm from the floor); at the level of human growth. This is necessary to reveal the irregularities of the wall. It is also better to measure the height at several points - to detect the curvature of the floor, ceiling.

Important! Horizontal measurements to objects in the kitchen (meters, pipes, windows, etc.) must be done from one corner, taken as the base.

What computer programs are suitable for a beginner to independently develop a kitchen drawing?

The simplest design software is PRO100. Intuitive and easy to understand: Astra Furniture Designer, bCad-furniture maker, KitchenDraw, WOODY, IKEA kitchen planner (great for standard furniture sets), AutoCad, 3D-constructor, Basis.

Why do kitchen dimensional drawings always include a gap around the walls?

In the development of kitchens, especially corner ones, it is very difficult to predict how perfectly the furniture will fit into the given dimensions of the room. No one is immune from the oversights of builders who left uneven walls after their work. A small gap of 5-7 cm helps furniture makers to install a set without major alterations - if the dimensions do not match, the furniture can be moved within these limits, and at the end of the work, the remaining gap can be covered with a detail in the color of the facade.

What distance should be between household appliances in the kitchen?

Between the equipment it is best to leave at least 500 ... 600 mm.

Can a washing machine be installed in the kitchen?

Oh sure. Rule of thumb: distance from washing machine to the nearest kitchen cabinets should not be less than 3 cm on each side.

How many centimeters should be between the lower and upper tiers of kitchen furniture?

The optimal distance is 60 cm. The exception is the cabinet under the hood - here you need to rely on the recommendations prescribed in the technical data sheet of the device.

In what order is it better to arrange household appliances on a kitchen drawing?

For right-handers, the most acceptable option: refrigerator, sink, stove. In this case, the hostess moves from left to right: she takes food out of the refrigerator, cleans and washes them, then cuts them (between the sink and stove), and then boils, fries, stews. For left-handers, it is better to use a mirror version of the location of household appliances: stove, sink, refrigerator.

Why is it considered that furniture with legs is more durable than the one in which the side parts of the body are lowered directly to the floor?

Kitchen cabinets with adjustable legs can always be leveled relative to the floor. In addition, in the event of various kinds of emergencies (the neighbors flooded from above, the tap fell off, etc.), only the lower base deteriorates, the replacement of which is less expensive than updating the side parts of the cabinet.

What should the back wall of kitchen cabinets be made of?

It is better to use fiberboard here - it does not negatively affect the reliability of the structure, and is more attractive at a price.

In what units of measurement should the dimensions of kitchen sets be indicated in the drawings?

Only in millimeters.

Where should sockets be located?

Socket layouts for household electrical appliances:

Is it possible to install a countertop 40-50 cm in depth against one of the walls in a corner kitchen?

No problem. The only condition is that in this part of the kitchen set there should not be built-in household appliances and sinks. All kitchen appliances are standard sizes, calculated under the countertop 60 centimeters.

Are standard kitchen drawings with dimensions better or worse than design developments?

There is no single answer. For a typical kitchen, you can use a standard set of furniture, but for rooms with redevelopment, an individual calculation of the kitchen set is really necessary.

Creating a drawing is a difficult and time-consuming process. But step-by-step planning, clear measurements, proper placement of furniture and appliances, as well as strict adherence to the instructions and advice of professionals will certainly succeed. A linear sketch of a direct arrangement or a 3-D drawing of a corner kitchen with dimensions and details is the first step towards the kitchen set of your dreams.

In order to make a high-quality set yourself so that do-it-yourself kitchen furniture made will become a matter of special pride, immortalized in photographs, you must at least have an idea of \u200b\u200bwhere to start. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the stages of work and what is required for this.

Do-it-yourself materials for the manufacture of kitchen furniture should correspond as much as possible to the conditions for the further operation of the headset. What do you plan to use for the furniture body:

solid wood version - a classic of the genre;
from chipboard - budget;
from old furniture with proper skill, it can be practically free, not counting the cost of new fasteners and accessories.

Whatever materials you agree to take as a basis for making furniture, before starting work, be sure to study the instructions on how to make headset items from this particular material. Everywhere has its own specifics for each type of furniture.

Material type	Peculiarities	Advantages	disadvantages
	Natural, eco-friendly material with unique texture and color.	Durable - depending on the type of rock, the service life is from 15 years to several tens.	The material is sensitive to changes in humidity and temperature. Requires treatment with impregnations, antiseptics of all parts.
Chipboard	The density of European samples exceeds domestic samples. The composition contains more glue and paraffin.	Budget option material, easy to process. It is easy to cut out details from it.	With low quality, it may have low strength and exude an unpleasant odor.
chipboard	The surface is covered with a protective film during the production process (laminated).	Cheaper than MDF, resistant to harsh operating conditions.	If the moisture-resistant layer was applied by caching, then the film may lag behind.
MDF	Density can exceed natural wood.	Outperforms chipboard in terms of strength and flexibility. Convenient for molding. Suitable for decorative items.	Requires painting, more expensive chipboard.
Drywall	It is a sheet of layers of construction paper with a layer of gypsum dough with various additives.	Practical, resistant to loads, long service life of structures. It is possible to manufacture a variety of designs.	Fragile, can crack during operation. Not designed for very heavy weight.

Having decided on the material from which you will make furniture for the kitchen with your own hands, carefully approach the choice directly on the spot.

Solid wood should have a uniform, dense pattern of annual rings. Be sure to check for cracks and chips, fiber delamination. Avoid wood with knots. In the future, this material defect will affect the quality of the parts.

Wood chipboards must be even, without defects. Do not take unnecessarily thin sheets, as the frame of the furniture box will carry a sufficient load. If there is a protective film, then it is better to take lamination, and not a cached version. The ideal option is MDF.

Do-it-yourself kitchen furniture made of plasterboard can become great option, since moisture-resistant sheets have been made for a long time. Furniture made from this material can become a real decoration of your home. However, this material requires a wooden or other frame on which the metal profile and parts will be attached.

Drywall

Stages of manufacturing kitchen furniture

The idea of homemade furniture is very relevant in homes where the kitchen is small or has a non-standard layout. If you make furniture for specific dimensions to order, it may turn out to be more expensive than its standard counterparts. In addition, when we are talking about furniture for a country kitchen, there is a great temptation to use the details of old furniture in order to spend minimal money on the purchase of materials.

The manufacture of furniture, whether it be wood, chipboard, drywall, after the details are cut, which you could do on your own or order from specialists, contains 3 mandatory steps:

work on the preparation of furniture parts - edge processing, impregnation with antiseptics and other protective compounds;
direct assembly of furniture modules;
final installation of the furniture set as a whole.

To homemade furniture really transformed the kitchen, and you would proudly show a photo of a headset made by yourself at home, watch a detailed video of the step-by-step process reflected in order to understand the specifics of each step.

Material handling

Headset installation

Assembly of modules

Measurements and project creation

Production of furniture for the kitchen is done on the basis of the project. For those who have started cutting parts without completing this item, the result will most likely be unusable. Answer yourself honestly whether you can do the drawings and diagrams with your own hands accurately and competently, taking into account all the necessary nuances.

If one of your friends has recently purchased a headset that fits into the dimensions of your apartment, do not hesitate to ask for a visit and thoroughly study all the details and take measurements on the spot. You can go to the store with ready-made headsets. Of course, you will have to withstand the increased attention of consultants, but you can study the range of kitchen furniture made of plasterboard with your own hands and it will turn out to be original and of high quality in terms of layout.

The drawing must be clear, accurately showing the location of the facade sockets and drilling. Important: 1 mm is taken as a unit of measurement - this moment is fundamental!

Also, take into account the allowances for processing the edge cut and between the parts for cut:

edge - 2 mm;
individual parts - 5 mm.

Take measurements in an area freed from furniture. Keep in mind that there will be an error in any house - whether the building is Soviet or more modern. For marks on a sheet of chipboard or other material, use a simple pencil. The marker can even show through decorative coating. Be sure to number the parts before assembling. Consider the location of large household appliances - refrigerators, stoves, sinks. Don't forget pipes. Leave a space between the drawers and the worktop of at least 650 mm.

Determine which type you will use - straight or angled. You can also make furniture for the kitchen on the basis of a ready-made drawing. You can choose an option on the Internet or order a project, for example, students of the last courses. It will be cheaper than professional work designer, but they will use quality programs to calculate the project.

After drawing up the drawing, do not forget about the cutting map. This document will help you see the location of the parts on the sheets of material, calculate the required quantity. Leave certain reserves:

from the edges of the sheet - 10 mm;
propyl - 4 mm;
in the place of the cut - if necessary.

It is important to arrange the parts in such a way as to ensure a high-quality through cut. It is better to use special programs for cutting, but you can also manually, although this is longer.

After preparing all the drawings, proceed to the calculation of parts. You can competently make kitchen furniture by creating a sketch of the module on separate A4 sheets - you need to write out everything you did, their number, parameters. Remember to consider the thickness of the material used. Moreover, if a plate or sheet can be produced in different thicknesses, calculate the material for several options:

to calculate the parameters of the inner shelf, subtract the double thickness of the sheet from the module width;
Do-it-yourself do-it-yourself back wall made of chipboard subtract 3 mm from the width and height of the future module;
for facades - the total width is divided in half, minus 3 mm.

After calculating everything you need, make a list for the order necessary materials and elements. Milling for hinges is better to order. This will save time, and buying a cutter will cost you about the same cost.

Materials and tools

Do-it-yourself material for kitchen furniture is checked for defects, “non-standard”. Decide in advance what the facades will be - buy or do it yourself. For the back walls take sheets with the smallest thickness. Medium - for shelves, vertical parts. On the countertop choose the most durable option. If you are planning drywall, then make a frame with your own hands from wood, purchase metal profiles.

Accessories needed: edge, screed, legs, drawer guides, dryers, hinges, handles, shelf holders, hooks. Fasteners - finishing nails, dowels, self-tapping screws, screws. Take care of the tools:

circular saw (hacksaw) - used for sawing parts;
pencil, tape measure;
confirmations;
screwdriver, sandpaper, hex key, primer;
manual milling cutter for wood - used for profiling edges, excavating nests for fittings;
drill, Forsner drill - for drilling nests for furniture hinges;
level, laser rangefinder;
iron (glue the edges);
screwdriver and / or electric drill;
jigsaw;
electric planer / planer.

Get to work making sure you have everything you need.

Material preparation

Kitchen furniture made of wood, chipboard or drywall begins with the preparation of materials and the processing of parts. After the markup has been applied to the sheet, do not forget to outline the awnings, handles, and other fasteners. For marking, it is better to use cardboard templates. Holes are drilled immediately.

Cut out the pieces with a circular saw. Do this from the inside so that the outside edge remains neat. For wood and slabs, the edge is processed first. Facing can be done with both melamine and plastic. The edge will protect the material from moisture and swelling. Use an iron. After gluing and the material has cooled, cut off the protrusions at 45 o, and then process the bend with sandpaper.

For drywall, preparation consists in marking and fixing metal guides. If it is assumed that the part will carry a significant load, additionally use a timber reinforcement.

markup

Cut out the details

Installing guides

Assembly and installation

To assemble a kitchen from wood with your own hands, fiberboard, drywall, the basics of events are based on the same principles:

it is necessary to separate all the elements, arrange them according to the list and delimit them so that it is clear where which module is;
if not done yet, then carry out antiseptic treatment, varnish (3 layers minimum);
first, facades are attached to the varnished elements of the module, then they are installed in place;
the upper cabinets can be hung as is, but to install the lower ones you will need a level without fail;
the countertop is laid without fixing, markings are made for the sink, stove, taps. Remove the countertop, make holes;
before installing the tabletop canvas on the cabinets, do not forget to also process and varnish it, if the surface requires it.

The place for washing is treated with sealants, as it will be exposed to regular moisture. The sequence is exactly this - cabinets, then the countertop.

Antiseptic treatment

We fix facades

Installing upper cabinets

We mount the countertop

Facade installation

Facades can be made from the most different materials- wood, chipboard, plastic, glass. Depending on the material used, when choosing hinges, consider the weight of the facade. Wooden will be heavier, and you need to mount it on a quality base. Particle boards and plastics are lighter.

Blind or paneled facade panels must exactly match the dimensions of the box, otherwise after installation you will get sloppy protrusions that will be extremely problematic to fix.

If you have manufactured or purchased facades, make sure that all edges are processed along the perimeter before installation. This is important, since during the operation it is the facade that will be exposed to the maximum impact - it is cleaned, moisture and the main pollution get on it.

Installation of facades on the box occurs according to the marking of hinged loops. Therefore, it was very important to calculate all the markup at the project stage. Installing by eye here will not work - after all, the loop can get to the level with the shelf and, as a result, do not work as it should.

Making a kitchen with your own hands, from designing a kitchen set to installing and connecting built-in appliances, is not an easy task for home master. On the other hand, a modern kitchen is nothing more than a set of cabinet furniture, many elements of which are standardized, and the assembly technology does not differ from the manufacture of more "simple" home furnishings.

If you have not yet had to make furniture from chipboard, I recommend reading this one, and as the first products, you can advise to assemble, for example, a wardrobe. Personally, I acted according to the described scheme and at some point "grew" to making a kitchen with my own hands.

What cuisine are we planning to make?

Our kitchen has an area of about 8.5 meters, a large three-leaf window and a fairly convenient door location. As a window sill, when installing new windows, I mounted a chipboard tabletop 38 mm thick. Its height above the floor (920 mm.) sets the parameters of the lower section, as it is planned to combine everything into a single working area.

In fact, we need to design corner set, with a total length of 4 running meters, which will be located along two walls and close the space under the windowsill with facades, resulting in a U-shaped kitchen.

Like any sane person, not burdened with extra money, he wanted "budget", but he understood that it makes sense to save only on things that do not affect the functionality of the system. Therefore, the facades in the kitchen will be made of MDF, covered with a film, and not with natural veneer, but the fittings will have a margin for durability and reliability.

The design of the kitchen provides for... What does it provide for?! I need to place a bunch of things that are used on the farm in this space and make it convenient and work - this is the main message. Color solution and the choice of the most beautiful form of handles are subjective things and should be taken at the family council, so I’ll just show you what happened with us. I do not dare to recommend that this is beautiful, but this is not.

I did not make the whole kitchen project in PRO 100, I only calculated individual complex elements. Of course, it is necessary to sketch out a sketch and the general arrangement of the structures of the lower and upper tiers, but only create a 3D model with an accurate transfer of texture and shadows if you don’t feel sorry for your time.

The traditional photograph of the brought cut (this is only a part) reminds that even small kitchen consists of a large number of parts.

We start assembly and subsequent installation from the corner bottom pedestal. As a rule, this is the location of the sink and, accordingly, the water supply and drain pipes pass through this element.

We collect cabinets

All pedestals have a depth of 500 mm, and with a tabletop depth of 600 mm. we get an overhang in front of 50 mm. and, accordingly, the free space between the wall and the cabinet is also 50 mm. Is this a lot or is it normal? 18 mm facades will be added in front, but there will also be handles - in my case 30 mm., So, an overhang of 50 mm. quite justified.

The pipes, the hose for the hob and, in addition, the gas meter pass through with a gap of 50 mm to the wall. (if we take into account the thickness of the tile on the backsplash and the pressing of the countertop not to zero, then all 60). But the desire to win a couple of centimeters of depth that occurs at the design stage is not justified. For a section with drawers, this does not play a role, but with the rest of the cabinets it will only make confusion. We just order 12 sidewalls for six pedestals, all of the same size, convenient and understandable.

There are 3 connections in the corner pedestal, two of them are in the area of the back wall and are arranged vertically. The third, with a vertical arrangement, will reduce access to the inside, and with a horizontal arrangement, it will have to be sawn along with the countertop to install the sink. I went the second way and had to shorten the confirmations, but when the door is opened, there is no bar covering the opening.

All cabinets are assembled according to the principle of false bottom, that is, the sidewalls are on the base. Each pedestal is installed on 4 adjustable supports (6 pieces for the sink), which are subsequently closed with a plinth. In order not to rest with your feet when approaching the working area of the kitchen, the plinth is recessed deep into.

The distance from the front edge of the pedestal to the base of the support is 55 mm, which in practice gives a normal appearance and ease of use.

Having collected all the cabinets on one side of the corner, they can be leveled and pulled together with ties.

Chipboard tabletop

In a corner kitchen, the countertops connect in at least one place. For this, connecting strips are provided that repeat the shape of the mating surfaces. Quite convenient, except that you need to make a selection from below to install the tightening stud.

I was especially interested in whether the connection would be reliable if the installation of the tightening element was abandoned. I was attaching a countertop to a window sill made of the same material, and my question was addressed to a professional furniture maker precisely at the expense of this section.

In fact, the window sill stands firmly and does not allow the connection to diverge. The pedestal, on which the joint will rest, is located in such a way that it allows screwing screws through the body of its cover into both the window sill and the tabletop to be attached. I assumed that this would be enough, but the specialist's answer was categorical: "definitely not!" This is worth considering and not taking risks, especially since the solution is not so complicated.

We saw off the countertop along the length and give, if necessary, the required shape. A feather drill, a hacksaw and a chisel will help you make the right selection.

Now you can put the tabletop back in place. I would very much like to perform this procedure only once, but it just so happens that the lack of proper experience makes you pay with unnecessary manipulations. I had to remove and put back in place twice, which in a small kitchen is not only inconvenient, but also increases the risk of damage.

Putting the tabletop in its place and grabbing it with self-tapping screws through the connections, we get a kind of workbench on which you can cut out. But there is one problem: when we saw wood, we get sawdust, and when we saw sawdust, we get fine dust, in the case of chipboard countertops - green. You will have to remove it because of the installed pedestals, which is very inconvenient. I had to take it off again and saw it in an open place.

We install and connect the hob. Nothing complicated, everything is quite clearly described in the attached instructions. At the Gorenie brewing company, there are two ways to fix the device to the countertop: mini brackets with self-tapping fixation and wedges. I got wedges, which, in my opinion, should be called "no room for error", since during installation the surface is pressed in until it stops. You can’t take it back out - the wedges work on the principle of a fishing hook.

The junction of the countertop with the window sill began to look like this:

Electrical connection

Moving sockets and switches when installing a new kitchen set is a common occurrence. Of course, it’s good when, during the repair, you have a project for the future kitchen in your hands and all the wiring is done for it. I didn’t have a project and this is what it led to.

There is a washing machine in the kitchen and a separate machine is placed under the group of sockets in the niche. I did not imagine that we would choose as oven electric and place it on the countertop. I had to move sockets. The only thing that pleases, in the case of the kitchen, you can make external wiring, anyway, nothing will be visible behind the cabinets.

I also miscalculated with the hob during the repair. For electric ignition, in any case, a connection is required and this must be remembered. It’s good that there are sockets nearby and you can stretch the wire through drywall in a few minutes.

There are two more consumers of electricity present in any modern kitchen. This is a hood located above the stove and lighting the working area. Here, my approximate calculations almost coincided with what was actually needed when installing kitchen furniture. The error is only a few centimeters, the benefit is to the side that will be closed.

The conclusion suggests itself - the location of sockets, lamps and the layout of wires is optimally carried out with finished project. In this case, you will save time, money and your own strength, and the installation of kitchen appliances will be much easier.

Cabinet for washing machine

How do you make a cupboard in a kitchen set designed to install a washing machine? The correct answer is none. In the case when the machine is located between two full-fledged cabinets, they simply leave space for it and cover everything with a single table top. We have a different layout and had to come up with our own design.

It is assumed that the machine will be closed by a facade, so an additional sidewall has been added to the last pedestal. As a material savings, it is quite possible to limit yourself to a bar that allows you to fully install the hinges.

The second sidewall of this conditional pedestal also consists of two layers of chipboard of different sizes in height. Adjustable supports on the M6 thread are installed in the lower end. Details are connected by furniture couplers.

Scraps from two countertops were enough to cover the car with only additional docking. It added an extra connection bar and took away from the aesthetics, but it still works.

A ledge 16 mm deep is made at the end of the tabletop, at a distance of 550 mm. Therefore, there is a pressing to the part made of light chipboard and leaning on the dark one. Additionally, three confirmations are screwed into the end of the tabletop through the body of the light part.

Before replacing the washing machine, I laid a piece of sheet rubber on the floor, sold in the "household" under the name "rubber mat". This is additional measure, which excludes the shift of the machine during operation, however, this rug resists installation in the cabinet with the same force.

The next module to be assembled is a place for installing an oven. Of the design features, only the presence of a gap for air circulation can be noted. In my case, this is the right wall and the lid - they are 30 mm. don't reach the wall.

The lid is planted on dowels, in contrast to the bottom fastening, which is made on confirmations and will be closed with a plinth.

Drawers

It's no secret that various retractable systems are the basis modern kitchen. But many experience an unpleasant feeling when they get acquainted with the prices of various ready-made solutions from European manufacturers. The number of boxes that you want to have in your kitchen, multiplied by the number of dollars at which the seller evaluates them, is by no means equal to the number of rubles that are supposed to be spent on this purchase.

How can you save money and not lose in functionality and reliability? We need drawers that are built to the dimensions we require, fully extendable, and have a smooth closing action.

The point of all ready-made drawer systems is to sell a set of rails and parts to create drawers of various sizes. By purchasing a kit, you do not receive a fully assembled set for assembling a drawer, but you are forced to order a cut of parts of the parts - usually the bottom of the drawer and the back wall.

If you go to make the boxes completely out of chipboard, you can significantly reduce costs. In this case, flush-mounted guides are used, which are produced by the same manufacturers. The design process must begin with the choice of guides, since the design of the drawer is tied to the technical features of the extension mechanism.

I used guides from Blum, with a dynamic load of up to 40 and 60 kg. The photo shows that the sides of the box protrude below the bottom plane (13 mm.). All recommendations on filler sizes and installation features are in the manufacturer's catalog.

At the expense of Blum, I would like to say a few words. Recommending the purchase of accessories from this manufacturer is like advising the purchase of Mercedes cars. There are a lot of manufacturers and Blum is one of the most famous. Its products are reliable, functional, durable and, as a result, not cheap.

But is it always justified to purchase all the kitchen accessories of this particular brand? A similar question was raised on the profile forum and this is what the collective mind decided: there is one type of common device where alternatives to Blum in various parameters simply do not exist. This is the Aventos HF folding lift.

Regarding the loops, guides and other things, the opinion of the members of the forum was not so categorical. Actually, I was going to buy lifts from Blum, and I had already chosen guides and hinges and was going to buy from Grass, but a trip to the Perm representative office of Blum changed my plans.

In addition to the fact that they offered me a lower price for the lift than indicated on the website, the issue was also resolved in favor of Blum on the guides. With a difference of 150 rubles per set, I think the choice is obvious.

In total, the kitchen will have two modules with drawers, four in each. The bottom one is made for storing large dishes and has a useful depth of 240 mm. The other three are equal in height and can accommodate objects up to 110 mm.

This is a pedestal above which is installed hob. Pay attention to the installation of connections, they are located under the top drawer and do not block the air circulation necessary for the operation of gas burners. Slots in 6 mm. between the front of the top drawer and the worktop is enough for air exchange.

Pay attention to the filler dimensions when assembling the boxes, since for two outwardly similar guides of the same company, but with different articles, an important parameter for assembly may change. I did not ask for dimensions in the company's catalog, but simply scored in the search "installation of Blum guides" and performed drilling according to the scheme from the article. The result is an error in the location of the blind hole in the back wall of the box.

It is good that such a mistake can be corrected with the help of dowels and a drop of PVA. We drive the beech dowel into the hole, having previously applied glue.

We saw off flush with the plane and mark the center of the new drilling with an awl.

After these steps, the box is confidently fixed on the guide and works properly. Since the corrected hole is located on the outer part of the back wall, no one will see the error and its correction.

Kitchen hanging cabinets

Here are some questions I had during the design process:

What sizes for kitchen cabinets are applicable, that is, their range and what size is optimal (used in industrial series and therefore tested comprehensively)?
What canopies are optimal for attaching lockers?
How to calculate the facade for a corner cabinet?

The fact that the width of the hanging cabinets can be anything and depends solely on the ease of use and overall design becomes clear when viewing kitchen catalogs. Looking at the parameters of Ikea products, you can determine that, in their understanding, a cabinet height of 100 cm is a common practice. We have installed in our kitchen forced ventilation, closed by a box and the maximum that you can count on does not exceed 75 cm.

In the Western standard, the most common depth of a cabinet without a front is 37 cm, which can also be considered a kind of guideline. Although, in the matter of depth, it is much more important to proceed from the minimum. It can be determined by the characteristics of fittings and equipment used in the cabinet for drying dishes. In my case, the allowable minimum was 310 mm. In practice, it turns out that we choose a drying rack for dishes and a lift - their dimensions and installation requirements will set the parameters of the wall cabinets in depth.

Adjustable canopies are plastic (only some of the parts are made of steel) and all-metal. The difference in price is about 2-3 times. Plastic manufacturers claim that the allowable load is calculated with a margin, etc., but there were precedents for a fall. Of course, this can be attributed to an insignificant percentage of marriage, but somehow I don’t want to check it myself. So I chose completely metal.

The calculation of the size of the facade for a corner cabinet is devoted to a sufficient amount of materials on the profile forum. But the disputes do not subside, and when ordering, I did not leave the feeling that there was an error somewhere. For straight cabinets and cabinets, the calculation algorithm is clear - the width of the case is minus 3 mm. or 4 mm., if you want to see a gap between facades of a larger size. For a corner cabinet, the calculated width of the facade depends, among other things, on its thickness.

I ordered facades from MDF 16 mm thick. and used the formula: facade width = opening size + 1 mm. In my case, the size of the opening is 400 mm, respectively, the facade is 401 mm. Everything works and opens, but be it 1 mm. wider, opening problems cannot be avoided.

With the installation of a corner cabinet, the installation of a number of mounted modules begins. But first you need to fix the mounting plate. In my case, the walls are made of drywall, and one wall is a partition sheathed with a double layer of plasterboard. Therefore, it is extremely important to get screws into the racks.

Unobtrusive domestic service - not all the details of the cut arrived the first time ...

Connecting the hood is complicated by the fact that you have to connect to an already installed forced hood. But when buying, I was only interested in one parameter - the noise level during operation. Of course the manufacturers lie. They indicate in the tables the noise level for the first position of the power regulator. Turn on 3 and you will feel all the decibels that you forgot to mention.

On the sides of the hood there are two cabinets, when assembling which, it is better to use dowels, in any case, to fix the bottom. I got a little carried away when drilling and first assembled like this:

Glue, clamps and beech dowels will allow you to change the look without losing strength.

While you are waiting for the facades, life in the kitchen goes on and, accordingly, the photographs are somewhat different from the production samples flaunting in the catalogs...

A niche under the window sill made it possible to organize a small storage compartment.

I did not assemble the cabinets on legs, but assembled the plinth and bottom into one structure, which will be attached "tightly" to the wall.

The heating battery must not be closed. In addition, I wanted to have easy access to it, but hide it out of sight. We decided to close the facade in the form of a frame and pull the rattan from the inside. It turned out that the paint fits perfectly on the rattan, and the process of attaching to the frame is not too complicated.

facades

By this time, all the facades were ready and safely delivered to the apartment. Make a kitchen with MDF facades coated with film, this is not only a cost-effective solution, but also the widest choice of color schemes. This option of kitchen fronts is well suited for use by those who do not have serious experience in making furniture. Film pattern "under the tree" will never replace the tactile sensations from touching the facades of wood. But if there is an extra 100 thousand for noble material, then, as a rule, the question of "do it yourself" is not so relevant.

The process of installing facades is a pleasant experience and brings a lot of positive emotions, as you can finally see the final product of your many days of effort. It is assumed that all strikers for the hinges were installed during the assembly of cabinets and cabinets.

Pay attention to the extremely convenient template for marking the installation of the striker. I bought together with Blum hinges and I can say that the thing is very convenient and saves a lot of time.

I install the hinges to the facades using a bar, which is pressed against two hinges at the same time. sets them to their correct position.

We hang facades and adjust the size of the gaps.

This completes the process of making a kitchen with your own hands. Behind the scenes, there was a backlight located at the bottom of the hanging boxes. These are 4 overhead LED spotlights, flat - about 30 mm. in height.