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How to make a composter in the country with your own hands. DIY compost bin: manufacturing options. They are laid in layers

A do-it-yourself compost bin is necessary for everyone who cultivates the soil, grows vegetables, or fruits.

You can make such a box in a day with your own hands using one of the well-known technologies and solve the problem of storing waste, at the same time turning it into a nutrient medium for plants.

But before a pile of rubbish becomes compost, there is one step you need to follow - keep it in a compost bin.

Where to begin?

Construction starts with a blueprint. Some summer residents will be quite satisfied with a simple one.

But others do not want to spoil the landscape with an indecent pile of garbage in a secluded corner and put exactly the container: a garbage container, a metal barrel - just to get the result. Design options are really numerous.

But even with something as simple as making your own compost bin, you can apply some taste and make something that will take its place in your backyard.

Any compost bin requires the following:

compost needs air to mature;
there must be a cover so that the rain does not wash away all the most useful into the ground;
there should be quick access to the lower layers of the compost;
must have a reliable bottom that will not rot (for example, a slate bottom);
wood should be used whenever possible;
The compost matures fairly quickly, so the bin needs to be wide.

A compost bin can be made from a variety of materials:

boxes from under vegetables and fruit;
plastic/metal barrels;
board boxes;
wooden pallets.

Before you arrange a place for compost, you need to understand the features of the compost that you want to prepare.

We will not take into account organics and other ingredients now, but pay attention to 4 factors that ultimately make up the correct, working compost: bacteria, moisture, air and time.

In order to combine all this in a box, the design in any situation and any material must have holes for ventilation (you can equip both the bottom and the walls or the lid of the box with holes)!

If we consider options from lumber or pallets, then first of all the bottom of the container and the walls must be properly dried in the sun and then flavored with an antiseptic and hydrophobic impregnation so that the box lasts as long as possible.

In order to equip a reliable box with your own hands, you need to consider that its content can be completely different.

So you must definitely put a lid - both to protect the contents, and a more aesthetic appearance in the surroundings of the cottage.

In spring and summer, at the peak of composting, it will also protect the contents from high temperatures and maintain optimal humidity inside.

The construction of the box is only required to maintain optimal conditions"ripening" fertilizer without your constant participation.

We have already dealt with the requirements of the composting technology itself, but there are some nuances in terms of manufacturing the design of the box itself.

The matter as a whole is simple, but it is better to make a box with your own hands once and for a long time.

Let's analyze the design using an unedged board as an example:

Each box must have four support posts and form simple design- box.
The supports are dug into the ground and serve only as a support for the entire structure;
Bury the support so that the final height of the box is about 1.2 m (to the height of the abdomen);
The device must have dimensions of 1x1 m (exactly a cubic meter). Doing less just doesn't make sense;
Slots are allowed during construction (when stuffing boards with a gap);
If you are building a dense structure “for centuries”, then at the end you will need to drill a lot of holes;
The bottom of the box must be made of non-rotting material (for example, slate);
At the bottom, you need to build a door for quick unloading of the finished compost;
Do not deepen the container into the ground, do not allow the compost to come into contact with the soil;
The bottom must be a must! Otherwise, all the work goes nowhere;
Place the box out of direct sunlight.

The most suitable design is familiar wooden box, tightly knocked together, with many holes, which has a door at the bottom.

It is advisable to make the door the width of the box so that you can immediately rake off the bottom layer and then add a new one on top. Important quality compost - its uniformity and density.

When you open the door, it will not fall out like things from a crowded closet.

Until we get to the point case study handmade, a small technological find!

Remember the drawer cabinets, tables. The same principle can be used: when the compost has matured, you press on such a box and it pushes a whole layer at a time into the side hole.

This, if I may say “feint”, can be performed in two versions:

The press will always be outside. It consists of a longitudinal board / sheet of metal with a convenient fastening, guides are not needed. But the minus of the design is that the handle will stick out from the outside;
You put the drawer inside, but above it there will also be a sliding sheet of plywood, with holes. The bottom layer has ripened - the upper partition has been pushed in - the bottom drawer has been pulled out - the partition has been pushed in - the layer has been added on top - the partition has been opened and we are waiting for the next lower layer to ripen.

Step by step instructions for making

It is time to consider in practice the entire production process. We will consider not a device not of Finnish, but of ordinary, Russian, technology.

We will make a box and a three-dimensional cylinder from a garden mesh for a summer residence.

Box, instruction

The drawing requires 4 bars 10 by 10 cm and 1 meter long. These will be the anchor corners of the box. We prepare 16 boards 5 by 15 cm 1 meter long.

The boards will become the walls of the box (if the dimensions are larger, then you will find out the quantity during the assembly process).

If you use 12 boards of the indicated size, then you will leave gaps of the same width for ventilation.

If possible, purchase one uniform piece of wood in 1 square meter area, or make it with your own hands, knocking down several dense boards and reinforcing them across with two or three boards.

We nail one 5x15 cm board to two 10x10 cm boards: put two boards in parallel and nail the 5x15 cm board with the ends to the parallel boards, and so that the edges of the board are flush with the edges of the parallel boards.

At the end of knocking all the 5x15 cm boards into two load-bearing, parallel 10x10 cm beams, we will get two beams with 4 perpendicular boards. Thus we received ¼ of our future box. The design will consist of four pallets.

Make in the same sequence, similarly to the first - the second wall.

Place two walls vertically, parallel to each other and connect the two walls, forming the back, with the help of 4 more boards 5x15 cm.

Following the same pattern, nail the remaining 4 boards 5x15 cm. Remember to move the nails so that they do not collide in the wood. The bottom of the box is made of plywood / slate.

Place the lid we made in the second item above. The box is ready!

Collect 3 of these boxes and you will have compost just in time for the whole season of work.

Do-it-yourself mesh cylinder, instructions

Take a mesh 1 meter wide, and select the length based on the fact that when it is bent into a pipe, an optimal volume should be formed. The longer, the larger the volume of the final cylinder.

Prepare 4 bars 1.3 meters long, in a profile of 10 by 10 cm. They will become supports. 30 centimeters of length will be dug into the ground for stability.

Attach one end of the mesh to the bar, leaving 30 cm free. You can fasten it with a construction stapler or nails, bending the hat into a board.

Place the bars under the mesh and at the final bend - they should be outside the structure, but not inside!

Roll out the mesh so that you get a perfect circle and so that the ends of the mesh close together.

Connect the junction of the ends of the mesh with a stapler or nails with a bar. The bars should be parallel after fastening.

Put the resulting cylinder on the ground and attach the remaining 2 bars also in parallel.

The finished structure must be placed on a wooden stand, but not on the ground! Otherwise, the finished compost will begin to fertilize the soil right under the structure itself.

Compost laying, ripening

Now that our box / cylinder is ready, we can start preparing the fertilizer:

Lay down about 20 cm layer of brown material (hay, twigs, shredded cardboard, leaves, sawdust, bark) for ventilation and drainage;
Now add alternating brown material with green - tops, mowed grass, cut lawn, kitchen waste, weeds;
You can add cow dung, a little garden soil and a handful of earthworms;
Do not compact the contents - it must breathe. Over time, the heap under its own weight will be compacted and you will add another layer;
Water and shovel the compost regularly. Avoid stagnant water and ammonia smell. The latter says that there is too much green material and brown should be added.
After 2-3 months, the compost will acquire the smell of the earth and will be ready for use.

But not all ingredients are good for compost!

With a zealous owner in the garden and in the garden, nothing is wasted.

Weeds and grass left after weeding, autumn leaves and household waste serve as raw materials for obtaining the most valuable organic fertilizer - compost. We'll tell you how to get it.

Autumn is the best time to plant a compost heap so that you can provide yourself with a natural fertilizer for the next season, which, like no other, is suitable for any type of soil.

You can cook it in different ways, but in any case, the owner of the land at the same time kills two birds with one stone - provides his farm with a supply of fertilizer and gets rid of a significant amount of waste.

Under the influence of bacteria and earthworms in the compost heap, seemingly useless waste is transformed into the most valuable organic fertilizer. In order to optimize the ongoing processes of waste decomposition, it is desirable to observe a certain composition of waste in a common heap, in which the processes will go on continuously.

When laying individual waste fractions that form a compost heap (Fig. 1), green mass, straw of leguminous plants, food waste, a chopped mixture of hay and straw, and sawdust are used in small quantities. For accelerated maturation of compost, fractions containing more nitrogen can be increased, for example, straw of leguminous plants.

Before forming a compost heap, think over a way to maintain the necessary moisture in it in order to prevent the mass from drying out. For this purpose, in particular, a shady place is chosen for the compost heap. And so that the heap is compact and does not take up much space, the compost mass is placed in some kind of container, for example, in a box made specifically for this purpose. In addition, a warm terrace bed can be arranged on an open compost heap (Fig. 2).

COMPOSTER OWN HANDS

1. On all bars for racks and six boards for removable shields, mark the position of the sheathing boards in 100 mm increments.

2. The racks are connected in pairs with two short sheathing boards in four frames. On the one hand, the boards are fixed flush with the adjacent layer of the bar, on the other, they retreat inward by 30 mm.

3. Having placed the frames at the same distance (900 mm) from each other, they are connected into a single frame with two long boards of the back wall. On the front side, the racks are also connected with two boards, but they are placed at the bottom of the racks.

Rice. 1. Of course, in most cases, the compost heap is not formed in such neat layers. The figure explains only the principle of its formation. The bottom layer with last year's compost is important - it supplies bacteria to new fractions of the compost heap.
Rice. 2. A warm bed is nothing more than a bed with a compost heap inside. For this system to function properly, the bed must be done that way.

4. Mark the position of the pits and grooves on the ground for the installation of the frame. They dig holes and grooves and dig the frame into the ground.

Every gardener and gardener knows that compost is one of the best fertilizers. Most people who have their own plots of land take care to get this product in sufficient quantity and good quality. There are several ways to get garden compost, each of which can be done with your own hands: compost pit, two pile system, compost boxes.

Initially, the pits were used for rotting manure. After about two or three years, high quality fertilizer. Then they began to add grass and foliage to the manure, and a little later peat and various wastes: kitchen, vegetable, feces. In order to provide air access to the pit, a pipe can be placed in it, then the process will go faster.

The disadvantage of this method is the inability to stir up the contents of the pit. You have to wait until everything that is loaded into it rots. This usually takes at least two years. The advantage is simplicity - all you need is your hands, a shovel and material to cover the pit.

Double collar system

First prepare a place for compost. The area is leveled and the turf is removed, then sand is poured 5 cm thick. The next step is laying the ingredients of the future compost in layers. As such, grass, leaves, peat, chicken droppings are used. The main thing is not to add branches, boards, straw, which rot for a very long time. Otherwise, you will have to choose them from ready-made fertilizer. Also avoid waste that has protein origin. They attract flies and rodents that carry diseases. When the components containing protein are decomposed, a characteristic unpleasant odor is formed.

To speed up the process of decay and improve the quality of the compost, you can use ammonium nitrate, ash or urea. The collar must be thoroughly shed with water and closed to reduce the evaporation of the liquid. For this, slate, boards or film are suitable.

During the season, the pile must be thoroughly mixed once or twice, thrown to another place (second pile), and new waste is applied to the old one. As a rule, excellent compost is obtained in spring, which can be used to fertilize the first beds.

The major disadvantage of this method is constant heap sprawl. In addition, it is often necessary to turn the pile more than 1-2 times per season, which means taking up additional space.

Compost bins

The most efficient and convenient way to get compost is using a garden composter. Loading into it is carried out through the top opening. Such a box is usually made at least one meter high and with a volume of at least one cubic meter. It contains the same ingredients as in compost pit or burt. During the season, the process of compost formation is completely completed in the lower part of the box, and it is removed through a special hole. Everything that is above falls to the vacant seat. Top with fresh ingredients.

Compost bins are made from a variety of materials:

metal;
tree;
plastics.

How to make a composter with your own hands

First of all, pay attention to the place where the composter is supposed to be placed. It is desirable that it be at least twenty meters from water sources and at least ten meters from your home. Consider the wind rose.

Composters differ in their design, but there are basic rules that any composter must satisfy:

Consider several options for how you can make a garden box with your own hands.

Simplified version

It is necessary to dig four pillars into the ground, at the corners of the proposed box. Cement can be used to increase stability. We upholster three walls with boards or stretch the mesh, you can sheathe them with slate sheets. Fourth - the front side is collapsible. This is necessary for building up as new portions of components are added. At the bottom of this wall, you need to leave a gap of 30 cm. You can’t make a box completely sealed. Compost formation requires a constant supply of air.

The disadvantage of this design is the inconvenient process of extracting compost. As the finished compost is removed from below, non-rotten ingredients begin to fall from above, thereby making it difficult to get fertilizer, which is located at the far wall.

To solve this problem, a second version of the composter was invented.

You will need to mark out a rectangular area. It is better if the sides of this rectangle will relate to each other as two to one. Then you need to remove the turf. Some professionals advise preparing concrete pavement. In this case, you should provide drainage holes. Six pillars are dug in: four at the corners of the site and two in the middle of the longest sides. The entire area of the future composter is covered with sand. Three sides are sheathed with boards. You can use other material, as long as it is strong, otherwise the contents of the box will simply squeeze it out.

The transverse wall, which separates the two compartments, and the two front walls must be made collapsible. This will be required when the volume of the decaying mass increases. If you have chosen wood as the material from which the composter is made, then it should be processed impregnations for protection against decay and insects. Choose non-toxic products, as toxins can enter the soil along with the compost and then end up on your table.

Compost ingredients are placed in one of the compartments. To increase the efficiency of the process, special accelerators can be used. But, if everything is done correctly and ensure good hydration, then you can not use them. Some gardeners deliberately add earthworms to the composter, but this is usually not required, as the worms naturally get inside the box and take an active part in the formation of the compost.

The filling of the first compartment continues for summer period, and in early autumn, the entire compost mass is transferred to the second compartment. This is necessary for loosening and providing air access. Soil bacteria are activated. The decay process is accelerating. It is possible already in the second compartment to spill the entire contents of urea or ammonium nitrate. During the winter, the compost bin should be tightly closed.

In the spring they receive excellent fertilizer. The front wall of the box is disassembled and used required amount compost. Then the wall is reassembled. Usually, during the season, all the finished compost finds its use, and the second compartment is completely filled with new ingredients.

There are many options for garden composters that you can make yourself. The main thing is to take into account all the features of the composting process and follow the instructions, then you will get high quality fertilizer.

The third option for making a composter

Perhaps, of all European nations, the Finns are the most reverent about the problem of waste recycling. And biomass is no exception - with a competent approach, you can get compost from them. This is an organic fertilizer High Quality, which is not inferior in its properties to the humus known to us.

Finnish composters are complex devices equipped with air supply systems, humidification and sensors. The cost of such devices for processing green masses can reach 100,000 rubles, which is beyond the reach of almost all Russian summer residents. However, knowing the technology for obtaining compost, you can design something similar yourself. How to make a composter Finnish technology with your own hands and save tens of thousands of rubles.

A little about compost

Knowing how the most valuable fertilizer is obtained from organic matter, you can avoid mistakes when designing a garden composter. Therefore, dear readers, be patient and read this section.

Science knows two ways to obtain compost: aerobic and anaerobic. In the first case, biomass is processed by bacteria that require oxygen for their vital activity. In the second case, the decomposition of organic matter occurs due to the vital activity of anaerobic bacteria, which feel great even without oxygen. For the construction and use of the composter at home, it is better to use the aerobic method.

If you make a composter according to Finnish technology correctly, the temperature inside the biomass will reach 70 0 C. At this value, part of the pathogenic microflora dies, as well as almost all weed seeds. At the exit, by the end of the summer season, you will get high-quality compost of a dark brown color and with the smell of soil.

Requirements for the installation and device of the composter

Many summer residents, when choosing a place to install a composter, do not know what distance should be between it and a residential building. Meanwhile, if you look at SNiP 30-02-97, all questions disappear.

From the residential building - 8 meters.
From the cellar - 7 meters.
From wells and open reservoirs - 8 meters.

It is believed that compliance with these conditions will prevent contamination of water with bacteria, and the owner of the farmstead from bad smell, which appears during the decomposition of biomass.

As for the dimensions of the composter itself, it must provide the following biomass decomposition parameters:

temperature in the center of the composter - 70-80 0 С;
humidity - 55%;
air access.

Calculations experienced gardeners showed that such parameters can only be achieved if the volume of processed biomass is 1 m 3 . With a larger volume, it is almost impossible to control the temperature, and with smaller volumes, it is almost impossible to maintain the desired humidity.

If the volume of processed organics should be 1 m 3, then the size of the composter should be 1x1x1 m.

Which composter to choose?

If you study the schemes of do-it-yourself composters that more or less allow you to provide Finnish technology, you can distinguish three types:

1 section;
2 sections;
3 sections.

In my opinion, a three-section composter is more practical. You can start filling the first bin, then the second and third. Over time, the biomass in the first compartment will turn into compost, you can choose it from below, and fill the vacated space with the prepared mass from the second bunker.

The most suitable material, in my opinion, is wood. It is easy to process and affordable. With proper processing of wood, such a composter will last a long time and will not disfigure your site.

Necessary materials for composter

If you decide to make a composter using Finnish technology, consisting of three sections, you will need directly boards, beams, hinges for attaching hatches. If you are a fan of experiments, then you can try to equip the sensors.

So, we decided not to waste time on trifles and build the “coolest” composter in order to bring compost preparation as close as possible to Finnish technology. What is needed for this?

Beam 50x50x1000 - 8 pcs., 50x50x3000 - 4 pcs. From it we will assemble the frame.
Edged board 100x20x1000 - 50 pcs.
Edged board 100x20x3000 - 25 pcs.
Material for the manufacture of the bottom (of your choice).
Antiseptic "Neomid 430 eco" for the treatment of wood from decay.
Overhead window hinges - 12 pcs.
Screws and paint.

Finnish composters are equipped with thermometers and humidity sensors. At home, the moisture content of the compost can be checked by hand (the lump should not crumble), but it is difficult to check the temperature.

If you plan to professionally prepare compost in order to provide yourself with valuable fertilizer, and sell the surplus, pay attention to temperature sensor moisture meter W-651. With it, you can measure the temperature and humidity inside the bunker. True, it costs about 6500 rubles.

Composter scheme for 3 sections

I do not pretend to be a first-class draftsman, therefore I cannot show a quality drawing. And yet I tried to make a schematic drawing for you, so that it would be clearer to you what I am talking about. Don't scold too much.

When assembling the frame, two types of beam connection are used. You can use your own options, as long as the connections are reinforced with dowels.

Ideally, it should be placed on each joint, and not just on the corner - it prevents the frame from losing its shape from drying out and takes on mechanical loads. The composter will last longer.

Composter assembly sequence

Process everything first wooden elements antiseptic, following the instructions. Try to process the entire surface of the boards and timber, especially from the ends. This measure will protect the material from decay, and therefore extend the life of the composter.

I give the further sequence of actions in the form of instructions.

Assemble the frame as shown in the picture above. It's easier to start with the top and bottom of the composter frame, then screw on the rest of the battens.
Sheathe the frame around the perimeter with boards (outside). Leave a gap of 10-20 mm between the boards, through which air will flow into the composter.
From the front of the composter, make a hole for the entire width of the box (see picture), then there will be hatches for extracting compost.
Do internal partitions boards must be screwed close to each other.
Assemble and secure the bottom. Slots are not only acceptable, but also desirable - excess water will leave through them.
Make 3 hatches. Slots are acceptable, the main thing is to protect the biomass from direct sunlight.
Screw the lower and upper hatches onto the window hinges.

The composter, practically according to Finnish technology, is ready. You just have to paint it in the desired color and you can start loading biomass.

User manual

In one of following articles I will tell you in detail how to make compost, and now I will give a brief instruction. It will help you get an excellent quality organic fertilizer.

Try not to plant weeds with seeds. Some of the seeds will die, and the other will spread throughout the garden.
Start filling the outer compartment, then the middle one, then the next one. So you can make, in fact, a compost conveyor.
Monitor the temperature and humidity, add water if necessary and mix the organics.
Periodically add green tops, they will enrich the compost with nitrogen.
Never cover the device with a film "to speed up the processes."

As you can see, making your own composter using Finnish technology is not so difficult. I agree that in terms of design and functionality, it is significantly inferior to factory plastic models. However, such a simple device will allow you to save tens of thousands of rubles and get the most valuable fertilizer for your garden.

If you use structures of a different type or have questions - write in the comments. And don't forget to share this article with your friends. social networks. Still, I tried for you and such gratitude will be pleasant to me.

Do-it-yourself composter using Finnish technology

For those who have their own land, and who care about the soil, improving it, compost is constantly needed. Question one: where can I get it? The answer is simple - make your own compost. There is always a lot of organic waste in every household plot, it is more reasonable to send them to a compost box than to take them to a landfill.

Compost bin options

Question two: where to collect waste? You can just put them together. Some summer residents will be satisfied with such a simple, easy and quick option as a compost pit. It is also attractive because it does not require material investments: you need a shovel, your strength and a little time.

Someone prefers to use a factory-made compost bin - plastic or metal. And my neighbor, for example, makes compost in a barrel, having drilled holes on the sides and in the bottom for air access. Finally, you can put in a little effort and build a compost bin with your own hands.

Requirements for a compost bin

What should be taken into account during production? Ripening compost needs an oxygen supply, so side vents should be provided. There must be a cover so that atmospheric precipitation does not wash away useful material into the soil.

Otherwise, the value of compost as a biofertilizer will be zero. You can, of course, cover the box without a lid with a film, but it will have to be fixed in some way so that it does not blow away with the wind. And this is not always convenient, and it looks unaesthetic. In the lower layer, the compost matures faster, so the design should provide for easy access to it. Here is a schematic representation of a simple compost bin.

The size can be changed as you wish.

Another option for a compost bin is a two-section one. One section also with removable front boards.

You can choose a simpler opening design; here the role of the loops will be taken by long strips of rubber (or other available elastic material), securely fixed on the boards:

And here is an economy option: a wooden compost bin. Its construction will require a minimum of funds and time.

If you decide to approach the issue thoroughly, let's step by step, with all the details, consider how to make a compost box.

Making a compost bin with your own hands

So, we make a three-section compost bin with our own hands. We set 8 columns. The lower part, which is in the ground, is pre-treated (used engine oil, tar, fuel oil are suitable - what is available).

In the photo, 4 bars are attached to the fence supports, which made it possible to simplify the process: I didn’t have to dig 4 holes for the posts.

The next step is partitions.

We nail the boards, leaving gaps between them for ventilation. Two compartments will be equipped with small doors, so we sheathe the front of the future box with a board to half the height.

A large door is provided in the third part of the box, so we nail one board from below.

It's time to install the covers. We reinforce the upper end parts of the partitions, front and rear walls with crossbars. We hang doors that simultaneously act as a cover. We also equip the front of the box with three doors - two small and one large.

Considering that compost maturation will occur in our box - that is, the decomposition of organic materials (which includes wood), precautions must be taken so that the box itself does not become an integral part of the future fertilizer. To prevent this from happening, we treat the wood with special ones (preferably deep penetration) to protect it from moisture, insects, and decay. Fortunately, now the choice of protective drugs is huge, it will not be difficult to buy them even in the outback. At the same time, remember that compost is a fertilizer, so all wood processing products must be non-toxic.

After impregnation treatments, we paint the box in any color that is pleasing to our eyes. When choosing, keep in mind that it will be constantly affected by temperature changes and precipitation. The paint must be applied in 2 layers; the second - only after the complete drying of the first.

It remains quite a bit - to hang handles and latches. All! Our DIY miracle compost bin is ready!

Summing up, we can say the following: it does not matter which compost container you choose; This article does not cover all possible options.

The main thing is that the production of compost takes place in accordance with all the rules, only then the result will be a truly valuable organic fertilizer. We will talk in more detail about what proper compost is and how to make it. In the meantime, useful posts