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How to make a beautiful wooden box. Master class materials and tools modeling designing MK on a loop for a jewelry box metal fabric. If there is a ready box

I can’t say that anyone can repeat the described method of making caskets at home on their knees. But I think it will still be interesting to read.

I found in the dacha in the woodpile many pieces of oak boards, which I sawed in the summer, even before the organization of the mother's room. By the way, a cubic meter of dry oak costs from 40 thousand rubles. Such goodness cannot be wasted. Of course, such pieces are not enough for a stool, but for the manufacture of oak caskets - just right! In light of the impending New Year holidays - great way save on gifts without losing face.

Before processing such boards on machines, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface of earth and sand. At the same time, leaving no metal bristles on the boards. For any cutting tools, sand and metal inclusions are the worst enemies. Having cut off all unnecessary, we get excellent oak blanks for caskets.

From the resulting bars, I chose the widest ones and sawed the blanks of the future walls of the caskets in thickness.

When sawing blanks, the height of the disk was not enough to cut in one pass. The disk, standard, supplied with the saw, was completely included in the oak blank. It can be seen that the saw was hard and had to reduce the feed rate. But despite the difficult conditions, the task was successfully solved.
The next stage is jointing. It is needed to level the surfaces of the workpieces. Without it, workpieces may have humps and depressions on the surface or twist with a "screw". In addition, the jointer eliminates scratches and scuffs that may remain after the saw.

After the jointer, the workpieces are sent to the thickness gauge. This machine makes the second dress exactly parallel to the first, and also makes workpieces of the exact specified thickness. AT this case all walls of the boxes are 8 mm thick.
If we had not leveled one face of the workpiece on the jointer, and there would have been waves or a "screw" on it, then after the thickness gauge the same waves and "screw" would have appeared on a parallel face.

The boxes are starting to take shape.

The next stage is the selection of grooves in the side walls for the lid and bottom. I chose the grooves on the milling table. The groove has a depth of 4 mm and an indent from the edge of 5 mm. I used a straight Bosch 7mm cutter. The edges of the boards are sawn at an angle of 45 degrees.
For a more accurate sawing of planks at an angle of 45 degrees, I assembled a special carriage. At the beginning sawed out of plywood suitable thickness two bars such that they fit snugly into the groove for the transverse stop in the saw table.

And I stuck the base of the carriage on top

Double-sided tape was needed to accurately position the guides on the base. Now fix them with screws.

We expose and fix the crossbars of the carriage. Workpieces will rely on them, so the accuracy of their installation is very important. We expose the saw blade at the desired angle and make a cut in the carriage. Ready.

Such a carriage allows you to accurately predict the place of the cut. This is important when working with small details.

Pasted on the inside of the lid and bottom with red velvet

And glued the first of the caskets. Because I have only two clamps, I had to glue the boxes sequentially.

The gluing process takes 10 minutes and several hours to dry.

The sticker on the lid and bottom of the velvet proved to be justified. Velvet enters the groove along with the bottom and gets an even, neat seam.

Filing the ends on the carriage proved to be effective. The planks fit tightly together along the entire length.

Finally, the boxes are glued together, which means you can continue.
The design includes special decorative and reinforcing inserts. It is convenient to strengthen connections with such a mustache. To make such inserts, special slots are made in the corners of the boxes. For this, another carriage was assembled.

The position of these slots is regulated by special linings. Each new size of the box has its own set of linings.

After cutting the grooves, you can finally separate the lids from the boxes

And velvet inside

For the manufacture of inserts, it was necessary to find contrasting wood. I only had oak and pine. Pine is somehow uncomme il faut, so I decided to buy a bamboo cutting board as a raw material. And use the light part.

And for cutting triangles I assembled another carriage

It, together with the previous one, can be used in the future in the manufacture of photo frames assembled on the basis of

Solving one problem with caskets, he got a whole fleet of carriages

Already at home, when gluing the tabs, it turned out that some do not fit into the grooves in thickness. I solved this problem in the following way: I clamped them between the sandpaper and the grinder and rode them for a couple of minutes. The triangles scattered in different directions, it was necessary to periodically collect them on the floor, but the goal was achieved.

The inserts are glued on. The next stage is the most dreary and uninteresting - puttying and grinding

I cut the triangles and sand them flush with the surrounding board. No one reads here anyway, but only looks at pictures, so we will make the transformer core from wood

After preliminary polishing, the boxes begin to take on their final form.
More putty and coating ahead

Already prepared hinges and locks. Fasteners - self-tapping screws 2.5x8.

At the stage of grinding, puttying and again grinding, I realized that the carpenter's main tool was not a saw, and not a chisel, but sandpaper. I have not used any other tool as much as sandpaper. Especially when fitting lids to boxes after a rough saw cut. In addition, it turned out that an ordinary construction spatula is not the most convenient tool for such work. We need to look for something more compact.

To protect the long-suffering velvet from varnish, we glue masking tape around the edges. Velvet got a little bit from sanding. I mean got the dust. Cleaned up with a rag.

Well, the crown of the whole casket epic is the application of varnish

Still the stink.

This is the very stage that can immediately cross out all the work done.
The varnish is dry, the hinges and locks are hung. The casket epic can be considered complete. Hooray.

A box with a lid and, perhaps, several compartments for storing small items is needed by everyone and everywhere - from the office of a respectable businessman and the boudoir of a professional beauty to the matrimonial bedroom, living room, nursery and kitchen. Making a box with your own hands is a matter of prestige and a touchstone for a craftsman, but it's not just about creative self-expression.

Hobbyists make boxes from a wide variety of materials (see picture), from traditional wood and metal to old postcards, packing boxes, beads, yarn, and even… pasta(bottom row in the figure).:

A beautiful box can be made, for example. from an adhesive tape reel, see video:

Video: scotch tape box

What's the secret?

Such different caskets in fig. something in common. A seemingly uncomplicated little thing - a box - combines the requirements for the strength and reliability of the base, the quality, durability and durability of the finish, the originality of the design, combined with a subtle style, and therefore traditionally costs a lot of money. 5000 rub. for a good box of the middle price segment, this is still a little, and therefore there are more than enough people who want to make boxes on their own. Well, just a box with a lid, what's in it? But in fact, it turns out that the box is not so easy to make with your own hands. The work of making a box is simple, but painstaking. The key to the most exquisite beauty is a solid foundation. Michelangelo complained that it sometimes takes him longer to find a suitable block of marble than to sculpt a statue. This is in Italy, whose marble is considered the best in the world. Therefore, this article is not sustained in the key: N photos + M video = K ideas, although it is provided with illustrations and video materials, hopefully, enough .. And not in the spirit: “We take in right hand tool called scissors (should detailed description what it is, with a classification worthy of Linnaeus into types, genera and species). In this publication, the emphasis is given, firstly, on how to see in a conceived product weak spots structures and reinforce them. Secondly, how, without having an art education, you can still make it beautiful and your only one inimitable.

Note: Unfortunately, the article does not consider boxes made of carved stone and forged metal. For their manufacture, in addition to delicate taste, a sharp eye and a faithful hand, complex production equipment and solid skills in using it are required.

Nuance with material

So, we will make a box from what is at hand at home. You may have to think about purchased high-quality material if you are planning a jewelry box made of precious metals with real stones, natural or synthetic (cubic zirconia, garnetite, etc.). Jewelry can be stored in a regular box with several compartments, see below.

What's the matter? First, in the abrasion of the basis of jewelry. Jewelry gold 583 rubs, of course, less than 9999, but still wears out. Therefore, it is impossible to line the jewelry box with any fabric or make it cardboard (see below). Fibers of cellulose, wool, silk and polymers at the nanoscale are a good abrasive.

Second, in the microclimate of the box. She must breathe like wooden house, and the material of the drawer does not emit a bit of harmful fumes. Harmful not to humans, to stones. Insignificant impurities of some organic substances constantly present in the air can spoil the water of even a ruby or sapphire, and the color of microporous stones (agate, jasper, turquoise, lapis lazuli, malachite, selenite, etc.) will definitely be affected over time. Silver and its alloys are known to darken in air, and excessive cleaning is also abrasion of the metal.

An amazing coincidence, but the conditions for storing jewelry at home are almost the same as those for ... smoking cigars. If you come across an empty cigar box or cigar box, a humidor is the finished base for your jewelry box. Humidors are made from Spanish cedar, but linden is just as good. Birch is also suitable, although its fibers are harder than lime ones. The tree, of course, should be room-dry (up to 12% humidity), seasoned, without defects.

Note: Siberian cedar as a plant is actually not a cedar (Cedrus sp.), but a cedar pine Pinus sibirica. For a person, furniture made of planks of cedar pine is certainly useful; for jewelry also definitely not.

Cardboard boxes

The cardboard box, of course, will not wait for the grandchildren of the hostess. But she herself is able to serve long years, and does not require knowledge of carpentry. And most importantly, it will give you the opportunity to feel the work and skills of decoration. A finish that adheres securely to cardboard will be all the more durable and resistant to wood. Suddenly the product did not work out - it's okay, the cardboard is the same.

A cardboard box can look just great (see fig.), And even in appearance it can be almost indistinguishable from one made from a more expensive and difficult-to-work material, see the video:

Video: do-it-yourself cardboard box

Working methods

Cardboard for the manufacture of caskets is used solid, simple, or, better, electrical, and packaging corrugated; the latter is often in the form of finished boxes. The methods of working with them are quite different, but they have in common, firstly, the impregnation of workpieces with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), which will strengthen the material and make it less hygroscopic. Impregnation is done with a brush in 2-6 steps alternately on both sides. Each time they are impregnated not abundantly, intermittently, so that the cardboard does not become limp, but WPE should soak it through and through. After impregnation, the workpieces are dried at room temperature for one day.

Second, loop(s) for hanging the lid. These are 2 strips of canvas, or thin hemp burlap, 35-45 mm wide (approx. 5 mm per fold), glued with PVA on both sides of the parts. The outer strip is cut out with wings in the middle; the back wall is made 5 mm lower than the front and sidewalls. After gluing, nylon, silk, propylene, etc. are pulled into the resulting sleeve. slippery cord with a diameter of approx. 4 mm, it will be instead of a hinge. Since the box is not a skirt or pants, the safety pin to which the insert is fastened is pushed into the sleeve with a thin knitting needle. Finally, the wings are folded inward and stitched. You can’t put the insert in advance: if it sticks to at least one part, the cardboard will wrinkle and tear.

And thirdly, the workpieces are impregnated at intervals of 10-30 minutes, without waiting for the complete drying of the previous one. Some skill is needed here, but in the end, a slightly wet workpiece easily bends according to the pattern; you just need to wrap it with PE film so that it does not stick. The workpiece dries through the film for a rather long time, up to 3-4 days, but due to the absence of residual stresses in the material, bent dry in place, the product will turn out to be very durable. It is not necessary to make a template specifically; very often it is possible to get by with improvised means. For example, how the blanks of the sidewalls of the box in the form of a heart are bent with the help of a pair of household dishes without wrapping the blanks with a film, see Fig. on right. Moving and rotating them, we get the desired configuration. It is necessary to bend a couple of strips at once so that the heart does not come out sideways, i.e. containers are high enough. You need to put some weights in them or pour water so that the drying cardboard does not pull the supports. The voids of corrugated board blanks in this case should be oriented vertically.

Note: kanzashi-style heart boxes look very impressive, see video:

Video: kanzashi style box

One piece cardboard

It is easier to work with solid cardboard, because. there is no need to protect the ends of the parts from crushing. There is only one nuance - with electrical cardboard. It is very strong and rigid, but if it was rolled up, it will not work to turn it back into a dry sheet. You will have to properly impregnate with VPE and dry under pressure between the films; so the electric cardboard can dry for a week or more.

A box made of simple solid cardboard is made in the usual ways in cartoning; see the master class in pictures in the figure:

In this case, pre-impregnation of sheets of material is not used, so the whole work takes a couple of hours at most. But a box made of impregnated and dried cardboard will last much longer, up to 10 years or more.

Note: patterns of 3 original caskets made of solid cardboard are given in fig. below. Bends (wings) for gluing are not conventionally shown, because it is better to glue cardboard boxes in a more aesthetic and reliable way, see below.

Corrugated cardboard

Corrugated cardboard is more difficult to work with. its sections are easily wrinkled, and they fall on the corners of the box and the edge of the lid. Because of this, the assembly technology is changing, ensuring the strength and durability of the product. A round corrugated cardboard box glued with a reinforcing decor can be quite durable, see below, as well as the video:

Video: corrugated cardboard craft box

The greatest difficulties arise in the process of gluing boxes-boxes and complex shapes. Firstly, only the outer layers of parts are stuck with glue, and its entire cake is held on by factory gluing - fragile, because corrugated cardboard is a single-use material. Secondly, the limbs (wings) for gluing are thick and it is difficult to close them with a finish.

Therefore, only a one-time gift box can be glued with adhesive tape (on the left in the figure). The sides to the bottom on the limbs-petals are glued without problems, only if the box is made of solid cardboard. If this is a packaging corrugation, then the petals will have to be broken so that the corner will come out weakened and the box will lead pretty soon. Correctly, a corrugated cardboard box is glued in a way, the basis of which is illustrated on the right in the figure:

a bottom sweep with sides is cut out;
pasted over with background decor (eg wallpaper) or, better, canvas or jeans. Pasting is done with a twist of 15-20 mm;
the joints of the bottom with the sides are cut to half the height of the corrugation;
joints are sealed with strips of gauze, calico, calico or other thin cotton fabric;
the sides rise, the box is pulled together with a not tight elastic band;
internal corners are pasted over as in paragraph 4;
after the glue has completely dried, the strapping is removed and a cord is glued into the outer corners on PVA or other non-quick-drying glue. If the reinforcing pasting is decorative, then the decorative cord is taken thicker. If the reinforcing pasting is rough, then a thin cord is glued in, so long as it forms an even angle.

If there is a ready box

The casket from the box is a kind of transitional stage from cardboard to wooden ones, because. a suitable box can be of any material. Appropriate working methods are applied accordingly.

If you get the right size wooden box, for example, instrument, then the point is to cut off its height, if necessary, remove unnecessary internal partitions and lodgments, and then decorate as you like and know how (on the left in the figure). But the decor of cardboard boxes (on the right) requires preliminary hardening of the container, because. it is disposable.

To turn a packing box into a box, you need (in the figure from left to right):

Glue the corners inside and out; best of all with a thin cotton cloth.
Glue at least one transverse partition.
Glue a cord along the upper cuts of corrugated cardboard parts - it will be a damper for the lid
Paste the entire product with reinforcing material.
If there is an opportunity and desire, stick hard decorative panels, eg. from carved plywood, see below.

These methods are unequal in terms of the created strength and complexity of the work. Cutting thin plywood stiffeners (item 1 in the figure) is not as difficult as it might seem, see below. Joiner's connections, if they have to be done, are the simplest, because. a cardboard box glued inside will give the entire product sufficient resistance to mechanical stress.

Continuous pasting of a cardboard box with small solid elements: coffee beans (pos. 2), sea shell etc., will give the box no less strong and durable if glued with a thermal gun, and covered with acrylic varnish on top. Additional gluing with a decorative fabric (item 3) with layers of furniture foam rubber of brand 35 or more with a thickness of 5-7 mm will make the cardboard box durable if handled carefully, but if it is dropped along with the contents, it will most likely be wrinkled. But gluing little things on cardboard randomly at intervals (pos. 4) will only weaken the product.

Design and decor

It is possible to decorate the box in various ways, suitable for acc. materials. The same for cardboard and wooden products suitable, gives wide artistic possibilities, but does not require expensive materials and decoupage is easy to work with. shoebox, see 3-part video below:

Video: shoebox box

Decoupage on wood materials under the stone:

Video: wood box imitating stone

Mini decoupage of corrugated cardboard phone boxes:

Video: box from the phone box

The easiest way to decorate a wooden box is with inlays: this technique also provides extensive expressive possibilities and does not require skills developed by many years of practice, see the video tutorial:

Video: wood box with inlay

Cut plywood? It's simple

Nowadays it’s really simple, although through carving on plywood with a jigsaw ( artistic sawing) is by no means an easy task. But - ask the surrounding furniture makers, where there is a laser cutting of wood materials nearby. Most likely there is, in small and piece furniture production, laser cutting is now used everywhere.

Then ask the cutters what formats of graphic files they work with (the computer controls the entire installation), and prepare accordingly. file in a linear (not pixel!) scale 1:1. An alternative is to draw a contour on paper, also 1:1. The cutters must have a scanner, they simply cannot work without it. Then you give the workpiece and after a short time you get a slotted panel. With grooves for mounting spikes, if you remember to mark them. The prices for this work are not ruinous.

Pattern? It's simple too

Yes, but how to draw a pattern without being an artist and being a drawing truant in school? Patterns for the walls are usually created by repeating finished elements (leaves, figurines, rosettes) and in the overall design of the casket they have a subordinate meaning. The face of the box is a lid, and its pattern is created from the same ready-made elements according to the kaleidoscope principle, like a paper snowflake.

Cut out 4 identical 90-degree sectors from paper for a square cover, 6 by 60 degrees for a 6-angled one, or 8 by 45 degrees for an 8-angled one. On the same stencil, paint on each damn thing that you cut out. Then fold the sectors with vertices, turning each next 180 degrees along the longitudinal axis. You get something like the one in Fig. on right. That's how the kaleidoscope worked.

Some schemes of patterns of various artistic, but not technological complexity for the covers of plywood boxes (see below) are given as an example in fig. The grooves for the lid latches are marked with red. On the left is a side; in other cases, ribs. Beveled ribs are better: work is easier (no need to match the corners), the ends of the spikes are lost in the overall decor or even complement it, and the lid with ribs never gets stuck.

The pattern on the right is certainly not kaleidoscopic. It is given to illustrate another simple technological technique that allows creating the illusion of weaving on a flat pattern. In places marked dark, the top layer of plywood is not completely selected with a microchisel (see below) and slightly burned with an electric burner (this simple device can be made by hand) to look like a shadow.

Note: The main decoration of a solid, tasteful jewelry box, and many other items is a medallion. How to make a medallion for a box with your own hands, see video

Video: making a medallion for a box

Wood and plywood

The difference between wooden and plywood caskets is that for through carving on planks, approx. 20 mm requires valuable wood of special species, and it is very easy to break the carved parts from it when assembling the product. But both have something more essential in common.

In one of Agatha Christie's novels, either Hercule Poirot or Miss Marple recognize an aristocrat dressed as a commoner by her shoes: she has clean, elegant shoes on her feet in wet weather. As the explanation says, a real lady can get dirty from head to toe, knock down her hair, dress in rags and tatters, but she will never put on dirty worn out shoes. At boxes made of wood and plywood, made by amateurs or experienced craftsmen, there are two such “moments of truth”: inserting the hinges of the lid and connecting the corners of the walls (the side of the lid also, if any).

Cover hinge

The lids of the boxes are hung on ordinary miniature card loops. But due to the small size of the product, the difference, whether the hinge wings are visible or not, is immediately noticeable, see Fig.:

There is a way to embed the hinges of the lid of the box both inside and outside, if the thickness of the parts is more than 10-12 mm, and the master has a desktop drilling machine and microchisel. You can’t find it in stores, but you can make it yourself from a suitable handle and a large sewing “gypsy” needle. The neck of the handle made of wood at the very edge is tightly wrapped with thin wire or a collar is put on the neck from trimming a thin-walled metal tube; This is to keep the handle from cracking. Then they hammer a needle into it and break off its eye. The rest of the eye will be slightly wider than the shaft; it is sharpened on a wedge, like a chisel. They work with a microchisel without a hammer, only by hand.

The hinges of the lid of the box cut into the full pot according to the scheme in fig. on right:

invisible fastener

At the box - a "real lady" all connections should be invisible. A solid wooden box is made of valuable wood, and the material is not completely covered with final finishing. The small size of the box means small conjugate surface areas of the parts and the unreliability of adhesive joints, and the small thickness of the walls makes it impossible to fasten with steel hardware: if the part does not crack immediately, then later, from changes in humidity and temperature. For a novice master, for invisible butt fastening, flat microdowels - dowels remain, and for angular ones, it seems, only a visible connection is a through spike - a groove.

The grooves for the dowels are selected with a microchisel, as described above. Corner joints can be somehow adapted to the overall design (on the left in the figure), or hidden at least partially, in the center. However, there is also a way to make hidden corner joints on thin wood material (right). For it, you will need brackets for a stationery stapler: with a wall thickness of 6 mm, 10 mm, for walls of 8 mm, 12 mm (half-inch), and for thicker walls, brackets of 16-20 mm are needed. Fastener installation step in height 50-70 mm; indents of extreme fasteners from the edges of parts 15-20 mm. Each bracket bites exactly in half. You will also need a foam insert with dimensions exactly equal to the dimensions of the box inside the box.

The method of assembling a drawer of a wooden or plywood box on hidden corner joints is shown in Fig:

At the ends of the parts, bevels are made at 45 degrees.
If the box is with partitions, choose the grooves for them.
The parts are assembled dry without fasteners, tightened with an elastic band and mark the fastening points.
In the bevels of the walls, nests are pierced with an awl for staples and holes are drilled with the tip of a 1.5-2 mm drill, as shown in pos. 1a fig. Without holes, the folds of the staples will not allow the parts to come together closely.
A couple of drops of PVA are put into the nests of any of the short walls and staples are driven into them with light blows of a 20-50 gram hammer, pos. 2.
Glue is dripped into the mating sockets of the long walls, the mating surfaces are lubricated with glue, and with the same hammer they put the short wall on the long ones, pos. 3.
In the same way, they put the second short wall, pos. 4.
Insert the insert, tighten the shell of the box with an elastic band (do not forget to lay a plastic wrap!), pos. 5 and leave the assembly to dry.
It dried out - the sidewall of the drawer of the wooden box, strong and rigid even without a bottom, is ready.

Note: there is, however, a variety of caskets, for the corners of which a “bare” connection through a spike - a groove is preferable for aesthetic reasons. These are wooden organizer boxes for business people's offices, see drawings in fig. on right. They are not additionally finished in any way, and the visible joinery emphasizes the nobility of the material.

Nuances of materials

A good, solid box made of wood or plywood requires high-quality material and the correct cutting of parts from the board for the manufacture. Especially if the corners are connected in the hidden way described above. The tree species can be any, incl. ordinary battle pine. The orientation of the layers on the side cuts (along which there will be a corner connection) is also insignificant. But - pay attention - the orientation is precisely the annual layers, and not the fibers of the wood! The fibers should go into solid wood approx. perpendicular to the vertical end of the part (marked with green "!" in the figure). And if the texture of the wood shows that the fibers run parallel to the end or obliquely (crossed out in red), the box, fastened flush, will warp and / or crack pretty soon. Given this circumstance, it is necessary to cut out the details from an array or boards.

Nuances of plywood

Plywood products can look amazing, see fig., especially since laser cutting allows you to create the finest knitting on it. Plywood boxes are often left openwork, pos. 1. If the box is intended for small items (pos. 2) or its finish is already very thin (pos. 3), then the product inside is pasted over with cardboard for general strength, see above. In this case, a specially designed slot allows, with a lining, to form curved contours in one plane, pos. 4.

The requirements for the quality of plywood for the box are even stricter than for solid wood. Signs of plywood sorting are shown in fig. below. So, the box is best obtained from plywood IV (!) Grade - with frequent small knots from young branches. After abundant VPE impregnation on both sides, grade IV plywood will be equal in strength and moisture resistance to second-rate plywood, which is more than enough for a box; WPE wood does not tint and does not add shine to it. Grade II plywood needs to be tinted with mineral stains before impregnation to emphasize the texture. In this case, strong plywood of the 1st grade is redundant, and after toning it will remain decoratively inexpressive. And grade III plywood with rare individual knots from adult branches will seem clumsy, especially since such knots are very prone to falling out of the core.

If the box is fastened with hidden corner joints on brackets (see above), then the wood fibers on the vertical sections of the walls should go into the part also perpendicular to the end, as for wood. On the cut, such layers appear darker. At least one pair of veneer lengthwise - veneer across should remain from the points of fastener installation to the faces of the parts. In what places it is possible and not to put hidden fasteners in the cuts and bevels of the details of the plywood box, shown in fig. resp. green "!" and red "X".

secretary box

Original not catchy / glamorous appearance, and with extended functionality a secretary box made of wood or plywood. It is suitable for both children and businessmen of both sexes. Papers and writing materials are placed in the rear elevated part, and anything in the front, usually closed, is everything from favorite toys and love notes to cosmetics, perfumes or a “small gentleman's set”: a flask of cognac, shot glasses, a lemon on a saucer, a deck of playing games. kart.

The device and dimensional drawing of the secretary box are shown in fig. Its details (see below) are not necessarily connected into a spike; hidden corner joints can be used as described above. In this case, the parts are cut according to overall dimensions, and instead of grooves for spikes, bevels are cut

The drawings of the most complex assembly of the secretary box - the flip lid - are given on the trail. rice. It is better to put an acrylic mirror in the lower insert, it is lighter, glued with ordinary mounting glue on wood and does not break. It is possible to do without the top insert at all, then the box can be used as a bureau.

Drawings of the side, rear walls and bottom are shown in fig. The design of the bottom is arbitrary; it can be just a plank, on which the shell is placed on glue and reinforced from under the bottom with small carnations. The other walls are just planks: the front one is 200x70x10 mm (for a tenon-groove connection with spikes and grooves 10x10), and the intermediate one is 186x66.5x10 with smooth edges. The intermediate wall is inserted into the grooves of the side walls.

About chests

In the living room, bedroom and, again, in the nursery, a box-chest will come in handy. These are made of wood in general in the same way as "real" chests, but easier due to the small size, see the plot:

Video: homemade box-chest

However, it is also possible to make a box-chest original not so much in appearance as in essence, and thus valuable and representative. How? For example, by making it from a solid piece of wood:

Video: solid log box

Note: it is better to start experimenting with caskets-chests with cardboard options, see the video:

Video: an example of finishing for a wooden or cardboard box

Non-traditional materials

In conclusion, let us recall the unusual materials for caskets. For example, about beads. In this case, the most utilitarian basis will come in handy: food containers, see fig. The beads strung on a thread are glued to the base with a glue gun. The advantages of this technique: the product is resistant to falling, etc., it is easy to clean inside and small objects do not cling to anything there.

The second, very popular option is a semi-soft heart-shaped box made of yarn for knitting. For craftswomen, in this case, the possibility of rich decoration in the simplest ways is attractive, see fig. below:

And the box-base of the box of threads can be made in just 10 minutes, see the video in conclusion:

Video: a simple box in 10 minutes

1. Hello everyone! Today I have the promised MK on the loop. First, a lot of text))) and then too))))) If you are used to buying accessories for jewelry boxes or use blanks in which everything is there, then this MK is not for you :) MK is for those who for some reason like to do their best with his own hands, sets himself the goal of "but I want to do it myself", does not have the opportunity to buy a suitable loop for a lovingly made jewelry box, well, and a little crazy (like me))))))). So, you have a box and not a single purchased loop fits it - they are either large and bulky, or they seem small, but the lid dangles from side to side on them (I had this with the first box: the lid with a mirror is heavy, small loops they look neat, but the lid warps, I had to urgently come up with a replacement). You can, of course, go to the construction site to buy a piano loop there, cut it to size, screw it on, and then the question immediately arises: the box is cardboard, it’s already ready, the loop was supposed to be glued, you can’t fix it on the reverse side in any way - it means it will fall off to hell. therefore, it does not fit, you need something that will not be bulky, will be able to stick and not fall off and! most importantly! will hold the lid as long as possible. As a result of several experiments (and I'm thinking about their continuation))), a fairly easy-to-make loop appeared.

What you need to make it:

1. Pencil (preferably a mechanical one - it is more convenient for them to draw).
2. Ruler
3. Dummy knife (or stationery)
4. Scissors.
5. Material for the loop. I have a calico, but you can use any other: thick fabric (which does not shag), leatherette, leather, maybe even thin plastic.
6. Copper wire (about 1.5 - 1.3 mm in diameter, thinner should not be too soft), I think it is also possible to replace it with another material, it will depend on your imagination))) I haven’t gone further than the wire yet .
7. Wire cutters
8. Round nose pliers
9. Glue "Moment Gel" - it is good because it instantly seizes the surfaces to be glued, no need to wait long.
I don't think I forgot anything, if I add anything along the way.

3.
First we need to draw our loop. To begin with, it is better to try to make it just out of paper to understand whether it suits or not.
My box is 13 cm long, so the loop should be a little smaller so that there is room for the copper rod to be attached. I stopped at the length of the loop 11cm. Slots in the center (white squares in the diagram) 1x1cm, loop width 2.2cm.
For your particular box / box, the dimensions of course will be different. I hope the above diagram will help in the construction: o)
I repeat: draw on paper, see if the loop fits in size.

4.

If everything is fine cut out of the material)

5.
Cut out those same white squares with a breadboard knife and scissors. I don’t even have simple ones in the photo, but manicure))
Fold both sides of the loop in half. It should turn out such jagged structures. The upper and lower teeth should, as it were, fit one into one.

6.
Next, let's prepare the rod that will hold both parts of our loop. This will probably already be the basics of the wirewrap technique))))

1. We bite off the desired piece of wire, I have it somewhere around 13 cm (11 in the loop + 0.5 per fold on both sides + 1 bent piece), we take into account that if the wire is beaten off, it will slightly increase in size (in width and length in the hit point).

2. Using a breadboard or clerical knife, we clean the wire from the braid.

3-4. If necessary, we beat off the wire: a metal bar (polished so that there are no marks on the wire) and a hammer - we slowly beat off the edge of the wire (we need 1 cm of bend). Especially not spitting, otherwise the copper will be very thin.

5. We bend the wire with the help of round-nose pliers. Attention! If you bend the wire on both sides at once, then it will be difficult to put the resulting rod into a loop. Bend one part first, put on a loop, and then bend the second tail of the wire. And you need to make sure that both tails of the rod are bent parallel to each other.

7.
The loop is put on in a checkerboard pattern lower / upper / lower / upper.
We get an almost finished loop like this. It remains to glue the loop so that it does not go anywhere. And can be glued to the box.

8.
We glue it to the box, the rod should be approximately in the center between the bottom and the lid of the box. The bent ends of the rod are also glued to the lid so that they do not hang out.

Of course, this method has its pros and cons. The technology is not brought to mind) But it works quite well.
I hope this MK will not scare you away) It seems to me that everything is simple, but I began to write what and how it seemed that it was a lot and difficult. I hope that at least someone will find all this useful and push them to new thoughts, inventions, or inspire a little creative exploits))))

P.S. If suddenly someone wants to repost MK on a blog or somewhere else - indicate authorship.
I will also duplicate MK in my blog (there you can enlarge the photos, so if anything is welcome!)

Thank you for your attention:)
I look forward to feedback, comments, questions

Those who are passionate about creativity may need loops for jewelry boxes. There doesn't seem to be any problem with this. Nowadays, hinges for jewelry boxes can be purchased at various stores specialized in the sale of accessories.

But if the box is made by hand from cardboard or thick paper, then it is almost impossible to find the right loop.

In this case, the loops for the boxes can be made by hand. Many of them don't even have to go anywhere. All materials can be found at home.

Indeed, in order to make loops for caskets with your own hands, you need only two pieces of wire. Yes, yes, exactly two pieces of straight wire and nothing more.

One piece of wire should be about twice as long as the second piece. A longer piece of wire is wound around the middle of a short piece in a spiral, turn to turn, close (Fig. 1).

After winding, the ends of a short piece of wire are bent at a right angle in one direction, as if forming the letter P, on the crossbar of which a dense spiral is wound (Fig. 2). This spiral should rotate freely on the crossbar.

To make everything work out neatly, you can use pliers to tighten the turns and trim the entire product (Fig. 3).

Do not forget that pliers are not only for plumbing or plumbing work, but also small ones - jewelry. Well, that's all, the loop for the box is ready and installed (Fig. 4).

The diameter and material of the wire can be very different, it all depends on what loops you need. You can take a copper wire with a diameter of 0.8 mm and make miniature loops for a paper box, or you can take an aluminum network wire with thick wires, free these wires from insulation and make more durable loops for the box from plywood, or even from chipboard. In fact, the thickness of the wire in Fig. 4 is no thicker than a thread, nevertheless, the loop does its job perfectly.

The number of turns of the spiral is also selected depending on your goals and the diameter of the wire. Making loops for caskets from thin wire, eight turns can be wound. From a thick wire, 3-4 turns can be made.

The wire can be either copper or aluminum, or from other metals. The main thing is that you can carefully make a spiral and bend the ends without breaking the wire, i.e. it should not be fragile or too hard.

You can use copper wire in lacquer insulation. Such wire can be “obtained” from old radio or television receivers by winding it from transformers. The wire in lacquer insulation looks nice and does not oxidize. The coating can be from light yellow to dark brown.

If you need silver colored wire, the lacquer insulation can be removed with sandpaper and tinned and tinned with a soldering iron. This coating also does not oxidize over time. It all depends on the design of the box, because the hinges must be in harmony with the material from which it is made.