How to insulate the floors above the entrance. How to insulate an apartment: the simplest and most reliable methods. The ceiling is better to insulate from the outside
You can insulate the apartment with the help of crumpled newspapers and adhesive tape. Or you can arm yourself with a thermal imager, an ultrasonic scanner and nanopaint for this purpose. The homeowner will be able to do some heat-saving work himself, but for some, professionals will be needed. Well, the acceptance of work for quality will be carried out by frosts outside the window. Builders share "winter" secrets with Remont.Divandi readers.
Treatment of a cold apartment begins with a diagnosis. We need to find out why the room is cold, despite the heat of the radiator. The experience of builders says that most often heat leaves the apartment through faulty windows and to the places where windows adjoin the wall. If we are talking about a panel house, one more thing weakness- the corners of the room formed by the outer wall. On the first floors, the floor is often the cause of the cold.
Alexey Zykov
director of Binom LLC
A person far from construction cannot always determine the cause of the freezing of the wall. Cracks and cavities inside the walls, broken inter-panel seams, the layman simply will not see the wrong brickwork. Yes, and a specialist may need special equipment - ultrasonic detectors, infrared cameras, etc.
There are companies in Yekaterinburg that provide services for examining premises using a thermal imager for the presence of cold bridges. It costs from 2.5 thousand rubles. for the apartment. You can rent a thermal imager - from 1 thousand rubles. for 1 hour rental. However, even without special equipment, the owner can learn a lot about the thermal circuit of his apartment. The main thing is to understand what to pay attention to.
Alexey Zykov
director of Binom LLC
Check how done window slopes and the windows themselves, whether the sashes are tightly adjacent. If you live on the first floor, check the floor-to-wall connections around the entire perimeter of the apartment. Also check the street walls, especially the sockets in them, as well as the corners of the rooms.
We treat windows for colds
Windows in Yekaterinburg apartments have been actively dressed in plastic for more than 10 years. Nevertheless, as the repairmen notice, 50-60% of the apartments of the townspeople, as before, look at the world with glass in a wooden frame. Wooden windows are very good from an environmental point of view, but over time their heat-shielding characteristics may deteriorate. Timur Abdullayev, director of the Repair Center "Master for an Hour", notes that today the old-fashioned method of "piercing" wooden windows with ordinary cotton wool has not lost its relevance. Especially if the owner of the apartment took care of the insulation of housing after the arrival of winter. When it's cold outside, make quality repairs wooden windows more difficult.
Timur Abdullaev
Repair of a wooden window begins with the search for cold bridges - gaps and cracks. We clean the places where they are found from dirt, if necessary, remove the paint that has tightened the cracks with a spatula. After that, we fill the cracks and gaps transparent sealant. It is sold in the form of "pencils". It is better to do this work before the cold weather.
Repair Center explained that professional master will insulate one window in about an hour. The cost of work will be 350-700 rubles. Plastic windows provide better protection from the cold than wood. But only if they are in good condition.
Alexander Sukhanov
Incorrect installation of fittings plastic window, especially multiplied by improper operation, can lead to the fact that the window will not close tightly, and attempts to lock it by force will only increase the gap between the frame and the binding up to 3-5 mm. Another problem is the destruction of the rubber seal. All these faults can be corrected by a specialist. Adjusting a plastic window costs about 300 rubles, replacing a seal - from 110 rubles. per running metre. Replacing accessories will cost from 700 to 5000 rubles.
Problems may not be in the window itself, but in the places where it adjoins the walls. As master Aleksey Zykov notes, according to construction GOSTs, a whole range of special materials and technologies should be used when installing a window. In practice, many elements are forgotten.
Alexey Zykov
director of Binom LLC
Slopes are often performed by non-specialists who believe that polyurethane foam is a panacea. According to GOST, when installing a window, in addition to thermal insulation, it is necessary to provide waterproofing of the joint from the street side and vapor barrier from the room side. If you forget about these moments, and use foam as a heat insulator, then moisture will penetrate between the wall, frame and foam, the foam will begin to collapse. As a result, we will get frozen, bad-smelling, dirty slopes. The cost of a full-fledged installation is about 3-4 thousand rubles. for one window. It is clear that window companies with too affordable prices will not be able to do everything according to the rules.
If cold air penetrates into the gaps between the window and the wall, then, as already suggested above, they can be sealed with sealant. But this will only be a temporary solution. When the frosts recede, a full cycle of work on the insulation of slopes should be carried out. It will cost from 10 thousand rubles. for one window. By the way, the cracks formed under the windowsill can also be cured.
Timur Abdullaev
It is necessary to clean the space under the windowsill 3-4 cm down and 4-6 cm deep. Fill the resulting groove with foam. Just before buying it, you need to consult in the store or with a specialist. If it is impossible to use this method, it is permissible to simply seal the gaps with sealant or use sheet and roll insulation that can be glued to the wall under the windowsill.
Door to entrance
The door leading from the apartment to the entrance can also be the cause of a cold snap in the house. To improve the thermal insulation properties of the door, it is often enough to replace rubber compressor and adjust door hinges. The cost of such work is from 1000 rubles. If there are gaps in the places of contact door frame to the walls, then you can use the above methods of insulation using sealant and foam.
Central heating batteries
Commenting on the question of how to eliminate "frosts" in the apartment, foreman Alexei Zykov explained that the owner of the apartment should take care not only to eliminate heat losses, but also to achieve sufficient heating power. In particular, he believes that the second problem can be solved by installing bimetallic batteries. If this is not enough, then you can apply underfloor heating and infrared heaters.
Director Sergei Rodionov warns that aluminum radiators should not be installed in houses with central heating. They are torn by the pressure of the water. You can only use bimetal or modern steel batteries. Purmo radiators have proven themselves very well. The size of the battery depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room - one section per 2 square meters. m. Replacement of batteries in a room of 15-16 square meters. m. will cost 8-10 thousand rubles. (including materials).
You can increase the efficiency of the battery without replacing it. It is enough to fix a layer of reflective heat insulator on the wall behind the radiator. In the simplest version, this can be ordinary food foil glued to thin foam or cork. This "sandwich" is attached to the wall with foil outward - towards the radiator. There are also ready-made solutions. Construction stores sell several types of roll insulation, which is a metallized film glued to a sheet of expanded polypropylene or other polymer. For the manufacture of a reflective screen for the battery, you can use, for example, Isospan (FD, FS or FX), Folgoplast SP or Porileks. True, as the builders notice, these materials are sold in rolls at a price of 1.5-2 thousand rubles. The creation of screens even for a multi-room apartment will take only a small part of this volume. The rest will be redundant. The most acceptable version of the edition was found in the OBI store. For 345 rubles. here you can buy a roll of Porilex 3 mm thick. and an area of 6 sq. m.
You can fasten a sheet of such material to the wall on “liquid nails”.
It is believed that the installation of a reflective screen behind the radiator allows you to increase the temperature in the room by 2-3 degrees. However, there can be negative consequences as well. It happens that mold or fungus appears behind the screen.
The ceiling is better to insulate from the outside
Builders notice that the need for ceiling insulation rarely arises - heat losses "up" occur almost exclusively in apartments on the top floors.
Alexander Goethe
In an apartment on the top floor, it is easiest to insulate the ceiling by updating the layer of expanded clay backfill in the attic. Perhaps, during the construction of the house, expanded clay was filled up incorrectly, or already in the finished house, someone borrowed it for their own purposes. But, there are houses where the height of the attic is only a few tens of centimeters and it is impossible to get to the ceiling of a cold room. Then you have to insulate the ceiling from the inside of the apartment. Usually a 5 cm layer of mineral wool is enough for this. We attach it to plastic "mushrooms" and sew it up with drywall.
Sex question
Most often, residents of the first floor experience problems with a cold floor. The technology of insulation depends on the design of the floor.
Timur Abdullaev
If the floor is on logs, you need to make sure that there is a sufficient layer of expanded clay under it, and also check whether the pipe passages are covered with insulation. If not, then literally floorboard cold air will penetrate from the basement or from the street. We had a case - ice formed right on the expanded clay layer. We replaced the expanded clay and insulated the space under the floor.
If the floor is laid on a screed, insulation can be placed under it. Foamed polystyrene is usually used. Another popular option is underfloor heating. Often the problem of a cold floor can be solved just by changing flooring. As the designer, the head of Studio-33, Valentina Ivleva, notes, a good result is the replacement of the laminate with natural wooden parquet or cork flooring. The price of high-quality parquet is from 1500 rubles. per sq. m., cork costs from 950 to 1500 rubles. per square. Plus, for laying you will have to pay from 500 to 1000 rubles. per sq. m.
Another simple option is to lay carpet over the existing floor. Its price starts from 700-800 rubles. per sq. m.
Sergei Zanin
We were given the task to eliminate the freezing of the floor in a room with a balcony. The floor is boarded on logs. We found that cold air got under the boards through a hole under balcony door. The floor was opened in the room at a distance of 1.5 meters from the balcony. Here the logs were removed, the hole was covered with mounting foam, and waterproofing was made. After that, a solid screed was made in place of the dismantled floor, and a warm floor was mounted on it. Then the entire room was covered with laminate. The cost of work without laying the laminate was about 9 thousand rubles, materials - 8 thousand rubles.
Cold walls in panels
The weak point of panel high-rise buildings is the joints between the slabs of the outer wall. They are sealed with a rubber "sausage". But over the years of operation of the building, the seams could be broken, the blockage could crack, and cold air enters the apartment.
Alexey Zykov
director of Binom LLC
Very often in panel houses it can be cold due to the poor condition of the interpanel seams. In such cases, we open from the inside to the full height, adjacent to the outer wall, the corner of the apartment, replace the packing, process the seam with a hydrophobe. Then we restore the corner of the room with the help of plaster on the reinforcing wall. A running meter of such work costs from 250 to 500 rubles.
To replace the rubber "sausage", builders today can use hard grades of mineral wool or polyurethane foam. In principle, both options are acceptable. The main thing not to forget is to waterproof the joint before driving.
"Laying" the wall - an extreme option
According to Yekaterinburg builders, the methods of eliminating cold bridges described above almost always give the desired result - it becomes warm in the apartment. But sometimes the wall facing the street has to be really insulated. AT apartment buildings close outer wall insulation is possible only from the inside - from the side of the apartment. You can use expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, glass wool, ecowool, foam glass, liquid ceramic thermal insulation, cork wallpaper and polystyrene foam wallpaper with thermal insulation properties.
However, according to the remark of the executive director Alexei Rylov, some of the listed heaters should be used carefully. Insulation of the wall from the inside leads to the fact that the main wall, cut off by the insulation from the room, cools more than before. This causes the dew point to move closer to the inner surface of the wall. The dew point is the area inside the wall that has the temperature at which the steam in the pores of the brick or concrete turns into water. After installing the insulation, the dew point may reach the inner surface of the main wall or even be inside the insulation layer. Wetting will begin, a fungus may start, drywall will suffer from moisture, which closes the thermal insulation layer.
According to Alexey Rylov, the use of mineral wool and similar materials is a surrogate solution. It is more correct to increase the mass of the wall, covering it from the inside with warm plaster. Even a centimeter layer of it gives a good result. Practice shows that warm plaster without special technical tricks can be applied with a layer of up to 3 cm.
Alexey Zykov
director of Binom LLC
Here is the method that I personally use. We apply a hydrophobic type "Penetron", "Penecrete", etc. on the wall. It is absorbed into concrete by 0.4 meters. In fact, we fixed the dew point. Next, we insulate the wall with mineral wool with a density of 150 and a thickness of at least 50 mm. We close the cotton wool with drywall in 2 layers. Another option for insulation is with a gap of 5 mm. from the main wall we mount a wall of foam glass blocks and put plaster on it under the grid.
Wall insulation using drywall and mineral wool will cost about 800 rubles. per sq. m. Including 500 rubles. - the cost of work, 300 rubles. - materials. Approximately the same amount will cost insulation with cork mats: 400 rubles. the cost of the mat and 400 rubles. - leveling the wall with plaster.
For those who are afraid of problems with the dew point, builders are advised to mount a film underfloor heating on the wall (under a layer of finish). It will heat the wall and move the dew point closer to the street. Wetting the wall can be avoided, but the price for this will be an increase in electricity costs. In addition, it will not be possible to drive a nail into such a wall.
As an alternative warm floors Aleksey Zykov suggests using compact infrared heaters aimed at cold wall. This method of wall insulation can be implemented by any apartment owner without the involvement of a construction team.
Insulation of the ceiling in the apartment is more necessary for outer floors of the house. Above the ceilings of the upper floors are either unheated technical attics or flat roofs. Here it is necessary to heat and soundproof the ceiling, choose a material that meets these requirements.
Insulation of the basement ceiling or basement, relevant for lower floors. Here, the cold penetrates through the ceilings of basements and socles of buildings. This also applies to private houses.
It is not always possible to insulate an apartment from the side of the basement, attic or roof. More often it is necessary to insulate the apartment from the side of the floor of the lower floors and from the side of the ceiling of the extreme upper apartments.
Insulation of the ceiling of an apartment from the inside for residential premises has a number of requirements SNiP 23-02-2003 "Thermal protection of buildings", a SanPiN 2.1.2.1002-00 determines the sanitary and epidemic requirements for residential buildings and premises. With the rise in prices for space heating, the demand for the service of insulating the ceiling of an apartment has increased, especially from residents of the outer floors. The main part of heat losses just falls on the ceilings and basement ceilings. Ceiling insulation from the attic side and from the floor side are similar.
Old housing stock - apartments built in the middle or end of the last century have attic floors, insulated bulk materials: expanded clay, slag, which, although durable, in comparison with light heat-insulating materials, lose in terms of heat-insulating performance and exert an increased load on the attic floor.
Overhaul and reconstruction of such ceilings include diagnostics of load-bearing structures, replacement, and thermal insulation. The same reconstruction is carried out in private houses, when the roof and attic space are converted into an attic.
Attics have floors in the form of concrete slabs, or floor logs, to which a draft floor is mounted, and between the logs it is filled or laid thermal insulation material. A budget option- this is to increase the thickness of the layer with backfill bulk materials on previously installed insulation. Expanded clay, slag, cellulose are covered with an even layer. The second option is laying insulation between the lags. This is a classic option that is suitable for both concrete and wooden floors.
(2) - the insulation can be any, if the attic is non-residential, if it is an attic, then the insulation is chosen from environmentally friendly materials: basalt wool, cellulose, eco cotton wool, expanded clay. Logs (5) are made of edged board 40 x 150 mm, impregnated with substances from decay.
Vapor barrier material(6) are placed below and above the insulation. Typically, the logo on the films is applied on the side that does not allow steam or moisture to pass through, but if you don’t know which side to lay the film on, contact the seller. Instructions are attached to the film materials. Instead of a membrane film (it is expensive), an ordinary plastic film or glassine is laid on the stove. On top of the insulation, a film is needed if it is a living space.
How to insulate the ceiling in the apartment
For an attic room, more attention is paid to the ceiling under the roof, here heat escapes in winter and the attic overheats in summer. The insulation of the attic floor rather plays the role of sound insulation, and therefore the counter rail (3) serves to cushion and create a gap between the vapor barrier and the floor. This gap is necessary for ventilation and evaporation of moisture from the insulation. If it is a cold attic, then ladders for walking are placed on top of the logs.
Insulation is chosen according to three indicators: density, thermal conductivity coefficient l -lambda and price.
Efficient in degree thermal conductivity are materials. in which l - 0.03 - 0.06. The density of these materials is expressed in kg/m3.
For price and thermal conductivity the best heaters are: mineral wool (glass wool, stone wool and slag wool), cellulose, foam plastic. Expensive heaters: wood fiber, polyurethane foam, cork. Insulation on the ceiling is chosen from two functions: heat and sound insulation of the ceiling. These criteria are met by board materials of medium and high density. Thermal insulation of the ceiling in the apartment is carried out with environmentally friendly materials that do not support combustion.
Insulation of the ceiling of an apartment on the top floor is sometimes performed not only because of heat leakage in winter, but also because due to heat the temperature during the day in the room reaches +30 +40 degrees and the cost of air conditioning devastates the owner's wallet.
Step-by-step instructions for insulating the ceiling in the apartment from the inside
The ceiling of the concrete slab is prepared as follows before gluing PAROK panels or other medium density slabs.
With a metal scraper or brush, remove peeled plaster, paint from the ceiling. Then cracks and cracks are puttied, a primer is applied. After that, an adhesive solution is prepared from a dry mixture in a container. Buy Typhoon quick-setting glue or another, read the instructions. With a hand mixer or a drill with a nozzle, dilute such an amount of glue that it can be consumed within 2 hours. It is not recommended to add water to the drying mixture. Dispose of the rest.
Preparing panels for gluing. Apply adhesive to the rough side of the panel. Then, with a comb spatula, we level the thickness of the layer. We paste the panel, starting from the far corner of the room.
In order for the panels to fit snugly against each other, it is necessary to glue in a checkerboard pattern. Between two parallel panels leave a gap of 2-3 mm narrower than the panel. Then the next panel fits snugly between them without seams.
This is what the ceiling looks like after the thermal insulation is completed.
Then there are two options, if the ceilings are high, then it is recommended to do stretch ceiling, then you do not need to stick a paint grid, putty, primer, paint. In terms of cost, these works are commensurate, but in terms of speed they are not: the stretch ceiling is completed in a few hours.
Insulation of the ceiling in the apartment is also soundproofing. The best way comply with these conditions suspension system installation on damper suspensions with the installation of heat-insulating plates on the ceiling, laminated on both sides with aluminum foil.
Plates are easily attached to the ceiling with dowels with umbrellas. Then they are decorated with a stretch or false ceiling. This is just for the upper floors, where you have to protect yourself from radiant heat penetrating through a flat roof. Aluminum foil reflects radiant energy by 90%. These panels are delivered to order, because they are hard to find in the free sale.
Useful video
Let's look at specific example how to make ceiling insulation in an apartment:
Foreword. Inhabitants apartment buildings often experience inconvenience due to the insufficient thickness of the wall between the apartment and the entrance. AT monolithic houses this leads not only to heat loss and insufficient sound insulation, which is especially felt on the first floors of apartment buildings. We will analyze the issue of thermal insulation of the wall in the entrance on our own, consider the choice of insulation and show the video instruction.
The first thing to remember is that you need to contact the HOA or the housing office for permission to carry out such work. The entrance is a common house property and nothing can be done here without the permission of the homeowners. Sometimes it is easier and cheaper to insulate the wall from the side of the apartment, keeping the heat in the house. In this case, a work permit will not be required if the load-bearing walls are not altered and dismantled.
Why is it necessary to insulate the wall in the entrance
Do I need to insulate the wall in the entrance? Sometimes it happens that the temperature in the entrance drops significantly in winter due to the fact that the entrance door is not well insulated, and there are wooden windows on the flights of stairs. This leads to the fact that heat loss increases in the apartment adjacent to the entrance. In this article we will tell you how to insulate the wall from the side of the entrance to the apartment on your own.
As you can see, heat and sound insulation of the entrance walls are often simply necessary, let's consider what inexpensive materials for thermal insulation of this design can be used. What technologies for insulating walls and other vertical structures are currently used in construction. At the end of the material, we posted a video instruction on independent heat and sound insulation of walls in an apartment.
What is the best way to insulate the walls in the entrance
From the side of the entrance, sheets of foam or extrusion (penoplex) can be glued to the wall to be processed, their installation is carried out with glue and dowels. To protect against mechanical damage, expanded polystyrene can be plastered after installation, like the facade of a house. You can also make a frame and build a false wall of drywall or OSB. If additional sound insulation is needed, then it is worth using mineral wool.
From the side of the apartment, it is better to use mineral wool, for example, URSA. Basalt and mineral heaters are inexpensive today, while this thermal insulation does not burn, is environmentally friendly and retains heat well. All this is important if you are trying to make your home environmentally friendly. The plates are fixed to the wall on a pre-constructed crate, the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier on top and sewn up with drywall or plywood.
Do-it-yourself wall insulation in the entrance
A photo. Do-it-yourself insulation of the entrance walls
Without a drill, puncher and other tools, you should not start work. To fix the dowel-fungi or crate in the wall, it is necessary to drill in brick wall holes. If it is not possible to drill a wall, then you can lay the insulation boards on the glue for polystyrene foam, but this is unreliable. In addition, for the reliability of the plate, mineral wool and polystyrene are additionally planted on a dowel.
If you want to end up with a more reliable and durable structure, then you should make a crate of wooden bars on the wall. The distance between the guides is made equal to the width of the thermal insulation boards; plasterboard or OSB sheets are attached to the guides from above. If you use basalt insulation, then they should be protected from moisture by laying rolled waterproofing from the side of a warm room.
Insulation of the entrance wall on the first floor
How to insulate the wall of the entrance on the first floor? This question is often asked by the owners of apartments on the ground floors, since for many the wall in the apartment has a thickness of only 1 brick. In winter, such a thin design lets the cold through, not to mention soundproofing. Thermal insulation of the door and the entrance wall on the ground floor will solve not only this problem, but also save the heat of the entire apartment building.
Use foam for these purposes instead of foam and mineral wool - a good option. Penoplex does not allow moisture to pass through, retains heat well, in addition, it is a fairly dense and durable material, so it is often used not only for insulating entrance doors, but also for thermal insulation of the blind area and foundation country house. Watch the video for recommendations from professional builders on this topic.
In the summer of 2010, I bought an apartment in brick house. The previous owners, of course, did not warn about anything. And the chairman of the HOA, after the purchase, said: "I must warn you - there is poor ventilation in your riser and the wall freezes through. Now we are suing the developer." After that, I carefully examined the wall and black dots were found on it in the corner and closer to the floor, apparently mold: sold it (now it is registered not in our region, but in St. Petersburg) and in general, there is no money for courts.
In general, the salvation of drowning people is the work of the drowning people themselves. And you have to save yourself from the cold (the blackness does not seem to grow yet). In winter, it is very cold in a room with an outside wall. Because there is access to the wall from the entrance (the wall opens onto a fire balcony + an unheated garbage chute + a poorly heated elevator hall), then I would like to insulate it on my own. I just don't know how, why or if it makes any sense at all.
What the wall consists of, what are the mistakes of the builders - it is impossible to achieve. The chairman (already different) is elusive, one of the board members came, knocked on the wall and said: "Why did they remove the foam? There should be a layer of foam on this wall." The accountant says: "According to the project, there should be a layer of mineral wool on the wall, but since the apartments were bought with a rough finish, no one began to make this layer at home." A woman (one of the few old-timers who has not yet sold an apartment in this riser) says: "Listen to them more - they will not say such a thing!"
The temperature in winter in the center of the room on the table is 18-19C, in the corner on the floor 12C, a meter and a half further from the corner along the wall 15C.
I don't understand - will warming help me? Will the mold feel more at ease in the heat? With heating, too, not everything is good: in severe frosts, the batteries heat better and the room is noticeably warmer (above 20C). But in normal weather, the batteries are not as hot. The chairman says that the temperature is regulated at the CHP. And the bulk of the risers in the house screams that they live with open windows. And our batteries are not really hot. Those. the supply pipe is hot - you can’t hold on to the pipe, but please hold on to the pipe on which the battery hangs.
My 3rd winter begins in a cold apartment. Can anyone help/advise/advise? One important feature for insulation is that the materials must be fireproof!
I enclose:
1. Photo of the facade of the house. It is noticeable that the fire balcony is deeper than the loggia, i.e. part of the wall actually goes out onto the street (according to my calculations, 20 centimeters).
2. Plan of the BTI (on the left is the apartment of the neighbors, on the right is the fire balcony and the corridor). The dimensions inside the apartment correspond to BTIshnymi.
3. The BTI plan shows that the thickness of the wall is different. But who would know how things really are. I tried to count the bricks on the loggia / fire balcony, measure it with a tape measure inside and out. I'm posting a schematic of what I ended up with.
Experts answered the question
best answer
5 responses
First of all, look at the wall-to-ceiling, wall-to-floor, corners, ditching, most likely it will be necessary. Strobe everything and an autopsy will show that there is no insulation between the walls, and all the jumps and corners are smeared somehow. Buy mounting foam and into all holes and crevices. But then you buy GVL guides and racks for it, unforgettable about dowels and screws and mineral wool, I like ROCKWOOL. Yes, mold must be removed.
I often encounter similar problems and solve everything. There is nothing super complicated here. You need to insulate the wall on the side of the entrance. A 2-brick wall is insufficient thermal protection from the cold outside. According to the project, there may have been an additional layer of foam or mineral wool insulation. It will need to be restored or recreated. You can use extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), if the Criminal Code does not check fire safety too meticulously - after all, the Epps layer will need to be covered with a layer of plaster on top, and just like that, from a match, it will not light up. Take a layer of insulation with a thickness of at least 10 cm.
You can look at the combustibility and fire safety groups of materials intended for insulation here:
The supply pipe of your battery is hot enough, and the output pipe is slightly warm - this is due to the high heat loss in the apartment. Insulate the wall - the temperature difference will decrease, and you won’t be able to hold on to the second pipe either.
The reason for the formation of mold is the constant presence of moisture (condensed in your case) on the surface of the wall. Moisture condenses when the wall surface temperature is significantly lower than the ambient air temperature. Insulate the wall - the temperature of its surface will rise, become not much lower than the air temperature, and the conditions for condensation will be eliminated. Mold will not grow on a dry surface.
Another reason for condensation may be high humidity air caused by poor ventilation. The normal indicator of relative humidity in the apartment is 30-45%. With this humidity, there will be no condensation. If the humidity is above the norm, then measures should be taken to normalize the operation of the ventilation system.
P.S. No need to ditch and look for insulation inside the wall. It's most likely not there. And if there is, then a layer of insufficient thickness, since it does not provide the necessary thermal protection.
Helpful answer? Yes 2 / Not
Oleg, you didn’t specify which side to ditch? from the apartment?
I would insulate the wall from the entrance. Mold must be removed and dried.
Helpful answer? Not really
Thanks for the answer! 
This figure shows that the fire balcony for the most part borders on the loggia. The loggia is not insulated (aluminum glazing). Therefore, I think that it makes no sense to insulate the entire wall of the fire balcony. But what to do in the corner, where is red? This is, in principle, a real street - in winter it can snow. The rain will probably not reach, but the materials must be resistant to temperature and precipitation. In Castorama, we have aerated concrete blocks measuring 625x250x100. Is 10cm thick enough? If you put 25cm on the side, probably not enough to close the red width and you have to put 62.5cm on the side? What solution to use? Some special glue for aerated concrete? Or do they not use aerated concrete for outdoor work?
I do not know exactly the red width (according to my estimates it is 20-25cm). I don’t know the thickness of the wall either (according to estimates, 2-2.5 bricks). Maybe look for thermal imaging? Can she elaborate? At what outside temperature should it be done?
And another question. If the HOA insists that it is necessary to insulate from the inside of the apartment, how can they be convinced of the opposite?
