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Floors on the ground with underfloor heating. Water heated floor on sand. Warm concrete floor on the ground - professional advice Reinforcement of the floor on the ground

Any owner of a private house faced the problem of heating. Floors are a particularly important heating element. The right floors do not let dampness into the house and keep it warm for a long time. IN Lately floors on the ground are rapidly gaining popularity.

They are effective because they are practical, reliable and relatively inexpensive. If a basement is not planned during construction, then on the ground in a private house - one of the best options thermal insulation.

Such a design is built directly on the ground, taking into account all its irregularities and will help prevent cold from entering from its surface. This option is far from the easiest, but it can be implemented independently, without hiring workers or equipment.

Such floors have nothing to do with baking. They are called "pies" due to the fact that their thermal insulation has many layers and in appearance they slightly resemble a layer cake. If you still decide to build, then keep in mind that underfloor heating on the ground requires some measurements.

For example, groundwater should not be too high, because this will make your "pie" float. You should also make sure that the soil is strong enough, because the whole structure can simply settle. It should also be remembered that the “pie” reduces the height of the room, and the dismantling of such a structure is a difficult matter, so everything must be done correctly the first time.

Foundation preparation

The device of your structure includes several layers, and therefore several stages too.

Don't move on to the next step until you've completed the previous one.

The first thing we must do is to prepare the base directly on the ground itself. For this you need:

remove the layer of earth. This must be done without fail, because the fertile layer is usually loose, and the remains of vegetation can then begin to rot and decompose - this will cause bad smell, and it will be impossible to stay in the room. The floor cake requires about 20 centimeters, or even more (depending on the region).
Tip: measure each level and calculate how deep you need to remove the soil. Leave marks on each of the levels to make it easier to navigate;
remove all rubbish and stones. This is also very important, because one unnoticed pebble can cause unevenness;
the remaining clean soil is leveled and compacted. This must be done very evenly - along the level.

Separating layer

To prevent anything from moving apart, the foundation of the pit must be lined with geotextiles or dornite. It is better to choose the first, because it also protects against the germination of weeds.

The correct underfloor heating cake must be separated from the parts of the foundation and the basement (the lower part of the building wall lying on the foundation) with a special layer. It is strictly forbidden to rest the plate on the protruding parts of the structure.

The correct floor should be made in the form of a floating screed.

Underlayment

Further, some variation is allowed. So that the floors on the ground do not settle down the correct cake, there are several options for laying. The underlying layer must be selected taking into account the height of the groundwater, the expected loads, the same looseness of the soil, and so on.

Most often, a concrete layer is used - this is the most reliable and proven option. But there are cases when it is impossible to use concrete, then the following materials can be used:

sand. It is used exclusively on dry soils to avoid water absorption through small holes in the sand. It is noteworthy that such a process can occur even in cases where dew forms on the surface. It will also be more difficult with sand because it needs to be perfectly evenly compacted, again, this must be done with the help of a level;
rubble. Crushed stone works well at high groundwater levels. In a layer of crushed stone, capillary absorption is completely impossible. Laying should also occur evenly;
natural soil. It is used quite rarely and is, most often, coarse sand or gravelly soil (soil with a grain content larger than 2 mm, but less than 50 mm). It will fit if neither groundwater nor special looseness of the soil is observed.
expanded clay. Also suitable.

Mineral wool boards (thermal insulation material made from mineral wool and a synthetic binder) will be an excellent insulation. They have a high density, are quite strong and live for a long time. Such plates are laid in two layers, they can be vulnerable to moisture, so they need to be treated with a water-repellent substance.

Footing

Whatever bonding material you use, you will still need a footing. You will need B 7.5 lean concrete mix. We remind you that lean concrete is concrete in which the content of cement and water is reduced, and the content of filler is increased.

Such material is much “weaker” than its “fat” counterpart, but at the same time cheaper. In our case, it is impractical to use a stronger concrete composition.

The footing is not reinforced, but must be separated from the basement or parts of the foundation. For this, pieces of foam or a special tape are suitable.

If you want to further reduce the cost of the floor cake on the ground, then you can use the saturation of the upper layers of crushed stone with cement milk. The resulting crust should be perfectly even, and its depth should be several centimeters. This trick will help make a waterproof concrete crust.

Waterproofing and insulation

Finally, we got to waterproofing and insulation. At this stage, it is necessary to isolate from moisture. We will do this with a waterproofing film or a special membrane. Lay the film overlapping, and seal the gaps at the joints with construction tape.

The first thing you need to put is waterproofing material, and not thermal insulation.

As a heater, use a layer of expanded polystyrene foam or dense polystyrene. You can also use special plates, but we advise you to do this only if the load on the surface of the structure is large.

You can choose the thickness of the layer yourself, depending on the climatic conditions of the region, usually it is from 5 to 20 centimeters. Joints and cracks fill with construction foam.

On top of the resulting "sandwich" lay another layer of waterproofing material or just roofing material. This is optional, but if you live in a humid region with high groundwater, it's best to play it safe.

damper layer

Lay a damper tape over the walls, which will be slightly higher than the planned thickness of the screed. This is necessary in order to isolate the future screed from the bearing elements of the foundation or basement.

We remind you: the floor on the ground of the cake is strictly forbidden to be rigidly connected with the elements of the base.

Instead of tape, you can use strips of polystyrene foam, which also needs to be laid a little higher. Excess pieces can then be cut off.

floating screed

Such a screed performs several functions at once: it produces thermal insulation and sound insulation at the same time. The design feature of this screed is that the solution is placed on the surface of the insulation, and not on the base.

Well, or on a layer of roofing felt, if you covered the insulation with it from above. Here's what to look out for:

it is desirable to do everything at once. In large rooms, this will not be possible, so separate the finished and unfinished areas with partitions. This will create an expansion joint and help the screed to subsequently take on completely;
if possible, pour over plaster beacons;
the thickness of the screed should not exceed 20 centimeters, the minimum should not be less than 5. Be guided by the expected operational loads and the type of future floor covering.

Reinforcement of the floor on the ground

Reinforcement is an important step that will help strengthen the concrete screed. The metal mesh will also serve to fix the pipes on it.

The reinforcing mesh should be a wire with square cells with a thickness of 5 to 10 centimeters. Depending on the design features thickness may vary.

The grid laying is as follows:

a protective layer extends from below - polymer material. The thickness of this layer should not exceed 1.5 - 3 centimeters.
grid installation;
installation of special beacons (in small rooms this is not necessary);
pouring the mixture.

Walking on a non-hardened mixture is not advisable; it is better to install special paths along which you will move. Even when the mixture is taken, it is better to continue walking along these paths anyway, metal mesh have a much lower density and can bend under the weight of a person.

Stiffening ribs under partitions

In order for the cake of a warm water floor to hold better, it must be strengthened. This is done by stiffening ribs. To create them, it is laid under the partitions - a material that consists entirely of closed small cells.

The material must be laid intermittently, and the resulting voids should be used for laying the reinforcement. Thus, it should turn out that the entire structure is evenly reinforced with reinforcing bars.

Underfloor heating contours

For even greater savings in a warm floor on the ground, you can install it, this will allow you to create a literally warm floor. Reinforced mesh has just the right dimensions for placing a heating pipe on it.

To connect to the collectors, pipes are brought out near the walls. The walls must be pasted over with a protective tape. As for all other communications, they need a similar system.

After the final filling of the "pie" everything will be ready. Then you are free to do the floor the way you want. This design is just one of options, if you wish, you can modify or any of its elements. It all depends on your finances and construction conditions.

Video: underfloor heating cake on the ground

ElenaRudenkaya (Expert Builderclub)

Good afternoon, compatriot.

I'll start answering the questions in order:

1. You can make floors on the ground. There can be no freezing inside the house. Of course, you do not indicate the parameters of the foundation and do not apply plans, but I can say that there will definitely not be freezing there. The floors are inside the building. Even in the basement under the house there will be a positive temperature. But of course the floors and basement will need to be insulated according to all the rules so that there is no heat loss. It is also necessary to make waterproofing of the floor on the ground. Do for God's sake such a floor level as you need, there are no contraindications.

2. Ideally, all these fillings should be made with sand, since it practically does not shrink if it is compacted. If the soil has already been compressed and breaks off with a crowbar, then it is enough for you to go through it with a manual rammer from above, without digging it up again. If this soil is clay, then it would be good to drive large gravel into the clay, it is to drive it in and you get an adobe base under the floor. This is a very dense base and good preparation under the screed Any layers of soil or bedding are usually tamped every 10 cm. Since you have already poured, now just tamp from above. And you don’t indicate how thick the layer is not rammed. Refine this moment? The ground can be filled with a large thickness, but under the screed it is better to add sand or gravel, so to speak, preparation. Again, there would be a good photograph of this backfill with soil, something could be said more precisely. But according to your words, I understand that there is most likely clay. What kind of soil was dug up at least?

Photo of manual rammer:

3. I would recommend you to make a bedding of 5-10 cm. Firstly, it will even out all the bumps and pits. Secondly, this is not bad for a concrete rough screed, it will be inconvenient for you to pour the screed on the ground and vibrate it. And if there is a small layer, then you can safely vibrate with a vibrating rail. But this layer is completely optional, it is desirable to pour sand. See for yourself. The polyethylene film is needed thick and preferably in 2 layers (Technical film polyethylene sleeve secondary LDPE (1500x120mkn x100m)). Look at prom.ua, I saw her there. You can use the old roofing material or roofing felt. It is desirable to make an overlap on the wall no more than 10 cm, there will also be an overlap from waterproofing (roofing material). When you cover it, an overlap of layers of 5 cm is also made and sealed with adhesive tape. It is not worth fixing, just pour on top, it will take as it should.

After the base of the floor is prepared for pouring the screed, you can proceed with the installation of beacons. Beacons are necessary as guides, along which the horizontal plane and the surface of the screed are aligned. If in the draft it is still somehow possible without them, then in the final one they are necessary to raise the reinforcing mesh from the bottom edge and level the floor level.

4. The rough screed consists of concrete, since it is a load-bearing part and it acts as a kind of floor slab. Therefore, the brand of concrete is enough M150. For the manufacture of M150 concrete, one part of cement, 3.5 parts of sand, and 5.7 parts of aggregate (crushed stone) are used. If you are going to prepare the mixture yourself, then you need to purchase river sand ( cement-sand screed) and crushed stone fraction 5-10 ( concrete screed), as well as cement M300 or M400.

The floor layers will be:

1. Bedding, you can not do it, although I would level it with sand.

2. The film, so that the cement milk does not flow, it partially retains the milk, but this is usually enough for concreting. They will not tear, it is dense polyethylene. Even if there are small holes, you put it in 2 layers.

3. Rough screed 7-10 cm without reinforcement made of M150 concrete. It dries and gains strength within 7 days by 70%, that is, after 7 days you can walk and carry out the next stage of work.

4. Waterproofing roofing material, preferably in 2 layers, because the crushed stone sticking out of the concrete can damage 1 layer, but 2 is enough. A waterproofing layer is laid with a wall approach of about 10 cm. A damper tape is fixed to the wall around the entire perimeter of the floor. It will compensate for the thermal expansion of the floor when heated. As a result, you can cut off excess waterproofing and damper tape. This is related to the 5th question.

5. Styrofoam or XPS 50 mm thick, strength 35 kg/cu.m. It is not fixed, only glued with tape so that it does not move. Ideally, this is of course EPS with locks, but usually it is more expensive than polystyrene. It just unfolds neatly all over the floor and then a fine screed is carefully made. You can walk on it, but also very carefully. Put a reinforcing mesh on the insulation.

6. Finishing screed with underfloor heating and mesh reinforcement (in cards or rolls) with a wire diameter of 3-6 mm, with a cell of 100x100 mm, an overlap of 100 mm during rolling. In your case, the mesh is placed directly on the floor and an intermediate thin screed is poured, the thickness of which is 2-3 cm. It is necessary that the thin screed gain the required strength. This will take two to five days (at room temperature). In this case, the damper tape does not make sense, since it does not work with thin layers of screed. We better lay it in a layer with waterproofing. By the way, it can be replaced by a laminate substrate cut into strips of 5-8 cm and glued to double-sided tape.

Ask. Maybe I missed something.

to answer

IN last years many people leave noisy metropolitan areas, erecting private houses outside the city. Houses built from natural materials are especially popular. After concrete walls apartment life in wooden house seems like heaven. Due to the availability of materials, the construction of such houses is much cheaper, and the healthy microclimate created by natural material makes it easier to breathe.

But what if the wooden house has already been built, and instead of the usual concrete base, there is a dirt floor under your feet? In this case, it is advisable to install underfloor heating, laid in a concrete screed, and powered by a boiler. And as a finishing coating in a wooden house, use a laminate or porcelain stoneware tiles, since these materials are the best conductors of heat. In this way, it will be possible to make your home warm and cozy, as close as possible to the comfort of a city apartment.

Features of a warm floor on the ground

In a wooden private house, alternative heating systems are increasingly being used, which include underfloor heating, laid under the laminate.

Moreover, it is water systems that are most popular, allowing significant savings on energy consumption.

Having equipped a dry warm water floor under a laminate on the ground in a wooden private house, you can significantly reduce the cost of building a foundation, and put the house into operation faster, ensuring a high level of comfort.

It is very important that such heating has a high degree strength. Therefore, the only way to install it is to install the pipes of the system in a concrete screed.

Despite the apparent complexity of the work on the organization of such heating, it is quite possible to organize it independently, carrying out work in several stages.

When arranging heating on the ground in the house, it is necessary to achieve the following results:

Underfloor heating cake on the ground

Comply with everything necessary requirements and to ensure the rational use of the "warm water floor" system in the house, powered by a boiler, helps a special multi-layer structure, laid under the laminate. So what layers does the pie of the system, equipped on the ground, and working from a common heating boiler, consist of?

Before proceeding to direct work in the house associated with laying layers on the dirt floor, it is necessary on the surface of the walls around the entire perimeter of the room in log house draw a control line. This stage necessary in order to adjust each layer of the cake.

Only after that you can proceed to the next stages of work, which ultimately allows you to get a dry and warm floor.

Underfloor heating cake on the ground

Laying an insulating pad

The organization of heating in the form of a water heated floor on the ground, powered by a boiler, requires preliminary insulation - pillows. And its first layer should be dry river sand of a large fraction.

It is poured onto the waterproofing covering the soil floor with a layer equal to 15 cm, after which it is carefully compacted in a wet way. If the sand is not compacted, then in the future the soil may subside.

If groundwater is located close, then first the earthen floors must be provided with a drainage system.

The next step will be laying a pillow of large gravel or expanded clay. Moreover, it is preferable to use crushed stone, since it has a very low degree of thermal conductivity, which means it will more effectively retain heat inside the cake.

It should be borne in mind that the thickness of the pillow for the “warm floor” system, together with sand, should not exceed 30 cm.

Pouring a rough screed

To increase the strength of the structure, before proceeding with the pouring of the rough screed, it is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh. Also, when installing water floor heating in a wooden house, you must be guided by general requirements to the length of the pipeline in the circuit: it should not exceed 100 m. Therefore, if the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is large, the floor must be divided into sections, laying a damper tape around their perimeter.

The thickness of the rough screed should be 10-15 cm. It is possible to eliminate cracking of the rough screed when arranging heating on the ground under the laminate if you wet it daily with water, covering it with plastic wrap in this form. Such manipulations must be carried out within a week.

Laying waterproofing

To obtain a dry warm floor, a waterproofing layer is laid on its rough surface, which can be an ordinary polyethylene film with a thickness of 250 microns or more. However, PVC membranes will handle this function more effectively. It should be noted that along the perimeter of the entire room it is necessary to make an allowance for the walls equal to 15 cm, fixing it with construction tape. They also glue all the joints of the film. Excess waterproofing is removed after all work is completed.

Laying thermal insulation

To get a dry and warm floor in a private house allows laying a heat-insulating layer. This minimizes heat loss. Styrofoam or extruded polystyrene plates with a thickness of 5 cm to 10 cm can be laid as thermal insulation. The latter option is preferable.

Insulation of the base before laying pipes

Laying water circuits and finishing screed

It is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh on the heat-insulating layer, which, in this case will perform two functions:

The contours of the warm floor on the ground, laid under the laminate, can consist of various pipes. But the most popular are pipes made of metal-plastic and cross-linked polyethylene. Underfloor heating circuits are laid with a snake or snail, observing a certain step between the turns of the system.

Regardless of the method of laying the circuits and their number, they are all connected to a collector, which is installed on the wall in close proximity to the floor. Next, the system is pressure tested and tested for thermal stability.

For the preparation of a cement-sand mixture, cement grade M100 is used. And the mixture itself is prepared by mixing with sand in proportions of 1: 3. The drying time of the finished floor is about 28 days, after which it will be possible to lay the laminate. You can reduce the waiting time if you use the dry method of laying the mixture.

When installing several water circuits laid under the laminate, it is necessary to use expansion joints created by separating sections of the room with a damper tape.

How to install a heating boiler

The most important stage in the organization of heating in a private house is the installation of a boiler of a certain power, which should be determined based on the total power of all circuits of a warm water floor and a margin equal to 15-20%.

The circulation of the coolant in the system is carried out using a pump, which can be included in the boiler package or purchased separately. If the area of the house exceeds 150 m², additional pumping equipment is installed in manifold cabinets.

It should be noted that when installing several floor heating circuits, it is advisable to install two collectors - one for the supply of coolant, and the other for its intake.

At the same time, shut-off valves must be installed at each outlet from the collector, which will allow disconnecting individual circuits from the system.

To eliminate the need to drain the coolant from the system during the repair work, shut-off valves are installed at the inlet and outlet of the boiler.

When the "warm water floor" system under the laminate is fully assembled and connected to the collector, all that remains is to connect the collector pipes to the pipes of the heating boiler.

The piping of the heating boiler must be carried out in accordance with the drawing, and the pipelines must be connected using factory parts.

Video: Tying a wall-mounted boiler

Outwardly similar to the slab foundation, the floor construction on the ground is less massive and cheaper to manufacture. Instead of two reinforcing meshes, one wire mesh is used, stiffeners are needed only under heavy partitions. The floor on the ground is not a load-bearing structure, it is created exclusively for the installation of floor coverings.

Layered scheme of the floor on the ground.

The classic scheme of a concrete floor on the ground includes a correct and complete cake of several layers with insulation:

sand;
geotextile;
crushed stone layer 0.4 m;
footing;
waterproofing;
insulation;
concrete screed with wire mesh in its lower third, separated from the basement, grillage or foundation by a damper tape around the perimeter.

Depending on the layout of the building, soil conditions and compliance with technology, the composition of the floor on the ground may vary. For example, on coarse sandy soil, sand and geotextiles are not needed.

The footing can be replaced with a leveling layer of sand on top of the rubble. To reduce the construction budget, foundations are often not poured under partitions, so stiffening ribs reinforced with reinforcing cages appear in the floors along the ground. In any case, before starting the production of a floating screed, it is necessary to prepare the existing base and plan it in a single horizontal level.

Foundation preparation

Despite the fact that concrete is the most durable structural material, swelling of the soil and subsidence of the base are dangerous for the screed. Therefore, the arable layer in the building spot should be completely removed: black soil or gray soil is saturated with organic matter, which will rot, after which the whole cake will sag, and, unevenly in some areas, cracks will open in the screed or the concrete floor will be destroyed along the ground.

For communications, it is necessary to dig trenches with a slope, bring them outside the foundation and near the walls inside the house.

Distribution of engineering systems.

Important! The correct floor on the ground is made in the form of a floating screed, separated from the foundation elements and plinths by a damper layer. It is forbidden to rest the slab on the protruding parts of these structures.

Separating layer

In order to avoid mutual mixing of the layers of the floor cake on the ground with the base soil, the pit is lined with non-woven material (geotextile or dornite). The edges of the separating layer web are launched onto the side surface and pressed with bricks, wall blocks. Optional feature geotextile is to prevent the germination of weed roots through the concrete floor on the ground during operation.

Advice! Under the floating screed, geotextiles with a density of 100 g / m 2 or more can be laid, since the design is considered not responsible, in contrast to slab foundations, for which needle-punched material with a density of 200 g / m 2 or more is required.

Underlayment

The concrete floor pie on the ground must rest on a hard layer to avoid subsidence of the soil. Therefore, depending on the soil conditions, non-metallic materials are used:

Less commonly used natural soil (coarse sand or gravel soil). If the developer has expanded clay after the dismantling of the building or this material is cheaper in the region than crushed stone, this material is also suitable as an underlying layer.

Advice! A prerequisite is a high-quality compaction of every 15 cm of the underlying layer with a vibrating plate or manual rammer. Spilling sand with water is not recommended, the material should be moistened from a watering can before backfilling and compaction.

Footing

The classic floor pie on concrete soil includes a screed-concrete from a lean mixture of B7.5. It is necessary to solve several problems:

However, to reduce the construction budget, the footing is replaced with other technologies:

Important! The footing is not reinforced, but is necessarily separated from the elements of the foundation or base along the perimeter with a damper layer (pieces of expanded polystyrene on the edge or a special tape).

Waterproofing and insulation

At the next stage, the cake must be isolated from moisture, to prevent heat loss in the floors and to keep the geothermal heat under the building. For this, waterproofing and insulation are used. Their relative position inside the design pie is as follows:

The main mistake of developers is laying vapor barrier over polystyrene foam:

the air temperature in the room is always higher than in the soil under the screed (valid for heated rooms);
therefore, when laying a floor covering that does not have vapor barrier properties (flooring board, parquet, cork), the steam direction will always be from top to bottom;
the vapor barrier membrane will accumulate moisture on the surface, inside the cake, at the insulation / concrete border;
the screed will collapse and the wire mesh inside it will corrode.

In addition to an unreasonable increase in the construction budget, this scheme does not provide any advantages. The accumulation of harmful gas - radon under the floors on the ground is impossible, since there is no underground in this design.

The following materials can be used as waterproofing:

built-up roll - TechnoNIKOL, Gidrostekloizol, Bikrost or roofing material;
film - made of polyvinyl chloride or polyethylene;
membranes - have a high density and strength, can be laid without making footings.

Admix mixture - an additive is added to concrete during mixing, the structural material becomes waterproof;
Penetron - the floor on the ground is processed AFTER concreting, the effect is similar to the previous one.

For these waterproofing materials footing is also not needed.

Of all the existing heaters, the best option for flooring on the ground is high-density extruded polystyrene foam grades XPS or XPS (for example, Penoplex). The thickness of the layer depends on the climate of the region of operation, it is 5 - 20 cm. The sheets are laid with mixing joints in adjacent rows, large gaps are filled with mounting foam of similar properties.

damper layer

Floors on the ground must not be rigidly connected to the elements of the basement or foundation, therefore, along the perimeter, it is necessary to install strips of polystyrene foam on the edge, pressing them to the vertical enclosing structures. However, more often a special damper tape made of latex, rubber or foamed polymers with an adhesive layer is glued to the walls.

Important! The height of the cutting layer should be slightly higher than the thickness of the floating screed. After the concrete has hardened, the material is cut off with a knife, the junctions are decorated with a plinth after laying the floor covering.

floating screed

The main nuances of concreting the floor on the ground are:

it is recommended to fill in one step;
plots larger than 50 m 2 (relevant for studio rooms, sheds and garages) should be separated by a special corner to create expansion joints;
internal load-bearing walls and heavy partitions should be erected on a separate foundation;
partitions from GKL / GVL must be erected partially so that moisture, when the screed dries, is not absorbed into the drywall or gypsum fiber sheet, destroying these materials;
it is preferable to pour on plaster beacons or profiles for GKL systems installed at a single horizontal level on quick-drying putty mortars;
screed thickness 5 - 20 cm, depending on the operational loads and the planned floor covering, as well as the need to install underfloor heating pipes.

Partial construction of plasterboard partitions is carried out according to the technology:

installation of racks and horizontal jumpers;
sheathing them at the junctions of the floor along the ground with plasterboard strips 10–20 cm high along the entire length.

For the floor on the ground, you can use ready-mixed concrete B12.5 and higher, the filler is gravel, dolomite or crushed granite. The screed is reinforced at the lower level with wire mesh.

Important! If the technology is broken, heavy partitions are planned to be supported on a screed, in places where they pass, stiffeners are needed, which are created by analogy with the UShP slab (insulated Swedish foundation floating slab).

Reinforcement of the floor on the ground

The industry produces VR welded wire mesh according to GOST 8478 from 5 mm wire with a square cell of 10 - 20 cm. Self-knitting on site is more expensive due to the high consumption of knitting wire and increased labor intensity. Grids are laid according to the technology:

Unlike reinforcing mesh, wire cards have a much lower rigidity; walking on them when laying the mixture is strictly prohibited. Therefore, the following methods are applied:

ladders - halves of bricks are laid in the cells of the grid, on which the boards are supported, moved along with the gaskets as the structure is ready;
"paths" - concrete piles up from the entrance of the room to the far corner, after which, you can walk along these paths without shifting the grid.

Smaller rooms usually use appropriately sized grid cards. If the room has a complex configuration, it is necessary to cut additional pieces. In this case, and when reinforcing large areas, the overlap of cards / rolls is at least one cell.

Stiffening ribs under partitions

To create stiffening ribs under the partitions, intermittent laying of extruded polystyrene foam or its top layer is used. Reinforcing cages made of square clamps (smooth reinforcement 4–6 mm) and longitudinal rods (“grooved” 8–12 mm) are placed in the voids formed.

Underfloor heating contours

Underfloor heating is used to reduce energy consumption in the heating boiler and increase living comfort. Their contours can be built into the screed by laying the pipes directly on the reinforcing mesh.

To connect to the collectors, the underfloor heating pipes are brought out near the wall. In this place they must be pasted over with a damper tape. A similar expansion joint technology is required for all communications passing through the screed (heating risers, hot water / cold water).

Thus, the composition of the floor on the ground can be modified depending on the construction budget and specific operational and soil conditions.

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There are different methods of laying panel heating. One of them is a warm floor on the ground. The peculiarity is that such heating is done during the construction of the building, and not later on its operation, due to the desire to modernize housing.

Having planned to make a warm floor on the ground in a private house, you should break all the work into two stages: a rough screed is poured onto the lower layers, then all the other layers of the cake are laid out. This is an iron rule for laying, dictated by the possible shrinkage of the soil.

The design of the warm floor, which is laid in the premises, resembles a kind of "pie", since it consists of several layers.

Pouring a warm floor on the ground directly depends on the characteristics of the soil. It must meet certain requirements and standards.

So, groundwater should be no higher than 5–6 meters from the level of the upper layer. It is important that the soil of the site does not have a high value of friability and airiness. That's why it's not allowed construction works on sandstones and black earth. It is also important to take into account the load that will fall on the structure during operation. The floor arrangement must provide the following:

reliable thermal insulation of the room;
prevent groundwater from flooding the premises;
eliminate external noise;
prevent the penetration of water vapor;
ensure the comfort of residents.

Water heated floor on the ground

Surface heating design is an excellent solution for living rooms and work areas with a large area (more than 20 m2). Here you can use electric heating or water. In small rooms (bathroom, balcony or loggia), it is quite difficult to place pipes. Therefore, the use of electric underfloor heating is allowed (and even recommended). As a rule, everyone strives to provide comfort in the first place in large rooms. It is worth considering the water floor on the ground, its features.

It's important to know! In high-rise buildings, it is prohibited to lay a water panel heating system together with a centralized heat source. This is due to the depressurization of the system, the introduction of additional resistances in the project calculated in advance, which will interfere with correct operation.

Based on this, it should be understood that to connect heating, it is worth considering the presence of an autonomous heat source. And for this you need to apply to the relevant government agencies for permission.

There are several methods for installing water systems. But for each of them you need to provide the following:

When laying on the ground, it is worth taking care of organizing a kind of “cushion”. The first layer of sand is laid (thickness 5–7 cm), then comes the fine stone (layer thickness 8–10 cm).
The second stage is waterproofing. Almost everything can be used available materials. Suitable bitumen-rubber or bitumen-polymer mastic. Alternatively, a pasting type can be used. This option has reinforcement in the form of fiberglass.
You can not do without thermal insulation. You can use polystyrene foam. The thickness of this layer is variable and depends on the calculations being carried out.
An additional layer of foil-coated roll-type insulation can be used (this is an auxiliary structure, so this step can be skipped).
Laying underfloor heating pipes on the ground.
A screed is made over the pipeline. Reinforcing it with a mesh will also be required. The height of such a structure, together with the heating elements, should be 50–70 mm. This is done to quickly warm up the coating. Reinforcement is carried out over the design of the warm floor. This is done in order to evenly distribute the load on the system.
Finish coating. Here it is allowed to use materials that are not amenable to the thermal effects of the underfloor heating system.

The main mistakes when installing a warm floor on the ground

How to make a floor screed on the ground for a warm floor

The current methods of installing a concrete screed on the ground are divided, as a rule, into 4 main stages:

preparatory work;
pouring concrete screed;
plane processing;
cake sealing.

Of particular importance is the layered structure of the cake. It includes the following:

base (it must be compacted before performing subsequent work);
fine sand;
crushed stone;
waterproofing layer;
primary concrete coating;
steam protection;
panel or roll insulation;
finished concrete screed with reinforcement.

Preparatory work begins with leveling. This will determine the level of the soil and the floor of the future building. The soil must be compacted through the use of special units.

The waterproofing layer can be made of membrane materials. The only requirement for it is integrity. Otherwise, damage may be fraught with flooding. The maximum tightness of the layer will be achieved by overlapping it with fastening the parts with mounting tape.

The rough screed is made of lean concrete with an admixture of fine crushed stone. There are no special requirements for such a surface. By the way, it can have differences in height up to 4 mm.

Insulation of floors on the ground involves the use of high-quality materials. Ideally, this layer should perform the function of not only thermal insulation, but also protect the room from water penetration. This will help protect your home from flooding.

Installation of the finishing screed is carried out in several steps.

Important! Reinforcement directly depends on the design loads on the warm floor.

With a small value, you can use the road grid. If the expected loads are large enough, then it is recommended to use a frame made of iron rods with a diameter of 8 mm.

At the end of the work, the installation of guide beacons and the final pouring of the cement-concrete mixture are carried out. The final step is leveling the floor.

Heat loss through the floor on the ground. How to make a calculation?

Heat losses through the floor structure are calculated a little differently than through other enclosing structures. Before laying heating, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the method of their determination.

The entire plane is divided into zones of a certain size. There are 4 in total:

The horizontal component of zone I is 2 m from the wall. Vertical component - thickness bearing wall that needs to be insulated. It is 1.5 m.
Zone II is another 2 meters of floor. The area starts directly from zone I to the center of the room for which the calculation is carried out.
Zone III - the next 2 meters. This area originates from zone II.
And zone IV is the remaining floor area of the room.

After a sketch is drawn. If the room is small, then the conditional division may not be 4, but 2-3 zones. Next, the thermal resistance is determined for each area.

The regulatory literature says that it should be equal to 2.1 m2 ° C / W. To ensure this indicator, you need to know the thermal conductivity of each layer of the cake. The second area has a standard resistance of 4.3 m2°C/W. The third is 8.6, and the fourth is 14.2.

After determining the thermal resistances for each zone, you must immediately calculate the area. In addition, you should know the difference in temperature between outdoor and indoor air. For the calculated value, it is worth taking the temperature of the coldest five-day period.

After that, heat losses are calculated, guided by the formula:

Q = S*T/R, where:
Q - heat loss, W
S is the estimated area of each zone, m2
R – thermal resistance of the enclosing structure, m2°С/W
T is the temperature difference.

When the calculation of heat loss for each floor zone is completed, you need to calculate the total value for the entire room. To do this, you need to add the results obtained for each section.

Underfloor heating cake on the ground: laying features

The earthen base on which the heating will be mounted must be prepared. To do this, the soil is leveled, the top layer is compacted. If necessary, a layer of backfill is laid on the ground. It consists of crushed stone or gravel. Most often, the material of the middle fraction is used. This prevents capillary penetration of groundwater into the room. The need to lay such a "cushion" arises only in the case of a high level of groundwater.

The rough screed layer, which was mentioned above, also has certain nuances. The thickness should be between 50 and 100 mm. Used brand of concrete - M100 or M200. It is advisable to reinforce the sole in the case when the soil was poorly compacted. Also, its use is justified in the case when there are discrepancies in the density of the base.

Advice. In the presence of pits or trenches, reinforcement is a necessary element of the pie.

A rough screed for underfloor heating on the ground in a private house can be laid on floors basements. This is done in order to level the plane. The thickness of such a layer should not be less than 3 cm.

There is also such a phenomenon as a dry screed. Its use has gained popularity due to the fact that there are no wet concrete works. It is advisable to use technology only for arranging a rough screed.

When laying a warm floor on the ground, you should also take care of the deformation layer. A damper tape will help here. The material will negate the likelihood of a thermal bridge. It also compensates for the load generated by heating concrete pavement. This prevents the screed from expanding and cracking. The damper tape is laid on all sides of the external enclosing structures. But this is done only after applying the plaster and preparatory work to the cleanliness of the building.