How to make paving slabs with your own hands: manufacturing technology. Step-by-step production of paving slabs at home Do-it-yourself paving slabs proportion shapes

Paving slabs, paving stones - popular, easy to use and available material for the design of sidewalks, paths, platforms, elements landscape design outdoors, in parks, gardens, personal plot. It has many advantages and a wide range of applications, as it is an inexpensive, easy to manufacture and environmentally friendly coating.

Paving stone, made in compliance with all technological nuances, will be resistant to abrasion, will withstand many cycles of freezing and subsequent thawing. In addition, it is easy to install and, if necessary, replace damaged areas, this can be done at any time.

Production of paving slabs

It is not difficult to make paving slabs, the technology is quite simple and allows you to get as a result a variety of shapes, sizes and colors. The production process can be sequentially divided into stages:

1. form preparation,
2. concrete preparation,
3. molding,
4. curing and drying of finished products,
5. stripping,
6. storage.

The simplest and most suitable, including for home use, is the technology of vibration casting using plasticizing additives. This does not require large expenditures on equipment; if you have the skills, it is possible to make it yourself. The result is low-porosity concrete pavers with a dense texture and a smooth surface. This is just achieved with vibration casting, when the concrete is compacted under the influence of electromechanical vibrators on a special vibration table.

Necessary equipment and materials

Since the tiles are concrete, first of all, a concrete mixer is needed, preferably of a forced type, that is, acting on the principle of a mixer. You will also need a vibrating table, molds for casting and lubricant for them, concrete mix.

Molds for casting in various sizes and configurations can be purchased freely. On sale they are rubber (they are the most durable, withstand up to 500 castings), plastic and polyurethane (about 200 production cycles). Their variety is very large, manufacturers can also make them to order, whether it be forms with a pattern, a certain surface texture or forms for glossy paving slabs.

Lubrication is necessary for trouble-free stripping of products after the concrete has hardened. You can either buy it ready-made or make it yourself. The simplest lubricant is prepared as follows: 50 g of mineral oil must be mixed with 1.5 liters of water until an emulsion is formed. But it is important to achieve the right balance of fat content, otherwise the lubricant can ruin appearance finished concrete products.

The composition of the concrete mixture is the most important part of the production technology. This includes:

• hard crushed stone of non-metallic rock 3-10 mm, or, as an alternative, granite screenings or gravel;
• cleaned washed sand;
• cement brand M500;
• concrete plasticizer;
• dry dye;
• water.

The composition of the mixture can be changed to obtain different properties of the final product..

Preparation of concrete mix

The recipe for paving slabs is simple, but requires careful preparation of all ingredients and methodical adherence to the sequence of actions. It is not difficult to calculate the amount of each component if you know the desired proportions of the volume of substances.

For one part of cement, you need to take two parts of a mixture of sand and gravel, 0.02 parts of a plasticizer and 0.2 parts of a dry coloring pigment. The ratio of the volume of water to the volume of the dry mixture will be 2: 3, that is, for three parts of the dry mixture you need two parts of water. This ratio will ensure the strength of the finished concrete product and is the best suited for home production.

You can also give such a calculation of the approximate consumption of materials per one square meter finished paving slabs 4.5 cm thick:

• 23 kg of cement;
• 56 kg of crushed stone (gravel or screenings);
• 390 g of plasticizer.

If the concrete is colored, then 1.5 kg will be needed for such a quantity of dye materials. Water will be added not by weight, but by volume of dry components.

To obtain high-quality concrete, you need to follow some rules for handling plasticizer and dye. Neither a plasticizer nor a dye can be added dry to a mixture of cement and crushed stone. The plasticizer is diluted in hot (70-80 degrees C) water (200 g of substance per liter of water) and added in portions to the concrete solution to be mixed. The dye is also diluted in water (40-50 degrees C, 250-280 grams of dry dye per liter of water) and added at the same stage as the plasticizer.

Before starting the preparation of the solution, it is necessary to rinse the walls of the concrete mixer with water, as they should be wet. Then water is poured and, with continuous stirring, cement and sand are poured into it in parts. After obtaining a homogeneous emulsion of water and cement, crushed stone is added. Lastly, the plasticizer and dye are poured in, diluted previously. It is necessary to mix the resulting solution until homogeneous, this process takes some time. If the volume of production is planned to be small, you can do without a concrete mixer, mix the mortar manually.

We offer to watch the video instructions for making paving slabs with your own hands:

Form Fill

Technological features of how to fill paving slabs correctly are as follows. It is better to fill the forms with concrete at first up to half, then they need to be placed on a vibrating table. After the work of the vibrating table begins, the concrete will begin to compact, evidence of which will be foam bubbles on its surface - this is how the air in the mixture comes out. As concrete settles, it must be added to the required height.

Also, if gravel or crushed stone is not added to the solution, you can increase the strength of the tile by placing reinforcement in the form of an iron mesh or wire in the casting mold.

Concrete can be poured in layers, for example, to save dye. The front side of the finished block will then be colored, and the rest of the gray. The color and regular mixture should be kneaded separately, it is only important that its density is the same.

On average, molds with concrete should be left on the vibrating table for 4-5 minutes. After the end of the vibration, they must be placed on a flat surface. Hardened paving slabs should not be exposed to direct sunlight. It takes up to three days to completely solidify, given the presence of a plasticizer.

Video on pouring forms of paving slabs on a personal plot:

Stripping and storage of paving slabs

In order not to damage the mold during molding, it is necessary to heat it up by immersing it in water at 50-70 degrees Celsius, then it is enough to tap with a rubber mallet so that you can easily “shake out” the finished product. After demoulding, the molds are ready for a new production cycle.

Ready paving slabs must be kept for up to three weeks on a flat surface and also in the shade, for further hardening and gaining strength. You need to lay it for storage “face to face”, if there are several rows, covering each with shrink wrap. During this time, the tile will dry out sufficiently and acquire the strength necessary for use.

The given manufacturing technology is applicable not only for paving slabs, it is possible to organize the production of curbs in a similar way. .

The use of paving slabs

Since paving slabs are a universal material, they can be used almost anywhere. Playgrounds, car parks, pedestrian streets, park areas, bike paths, private land ownership - this is just the main list of destinations, which can be easily expanded. Paving slabs decorate flower beds, fountains, garden ponds, decorative fences and fences, porch and terraces, stair steps.

Laying this cover allows the soil underneath to “breathe”, as it allows air and water to pass through, and does not contain toxins, although it hinders plant growth. But the soil still retains its properties, unlike soil under solid concrete or asphalt.

Paving slabs can withstand heavy structures, moisture and extreme weather conditions do not destroy it. These properties are due to the fact that its composition is close to that of concrete structures used in construction in supports and ceilings of buildings. This is a strong and durable material, little affected by climate and aggressive urban environment.

A few examples of the use of paving slabs in your suburban area

Setting up paths for suburban area or so country house, everyone wants them to be not only functional, but also fit into the overall design of the landscape. Finding the right tiles is not always easy. In such cases, many decide to create paving slabs with their own hands at home. How to do this, we will tell in this material.

Making tiles at home, is it worth it?

First, let's figure out how profitable it is to make tiles yourself. The process of its creation requires a lot of time, labor and care. An undeniable plus - as a result, you get an exclusive path, made in accordance with the design of your home and the surrounding landscape. Experimenting with the color of the tiles, you can add incredible patterns.

There is also an economic side of the issue: do-it-yourself paving slabs for paths in the country house are much cheaper than finished products. In addition, you can make a coating in accordance with the features of its operation. Completely different requirements for strength and other characteristics are put forward for covering playgrounds, footpaths, entrances to the garage.

The process of making paving slabs

So, if you are inspired by the idea of ​​creating a cover yourself, let's take a closer look at this issue.

Production of an individual form

To make tiles for the country house with your own hands, you will need a mold in which the products will be cast. Suitable forms can be found in any specialized store. You will be offered a wide selection of plastic products in shape and size. But we must remember that most of them are designed for only 200 fills. Therefore, having decided on the form, you need to purchase about a dozen of these containers.

Did you know? Making molds for tiles with your own hands can be turned into creative process using a variety of containers. For example, food containers are suitable for this business. They are quite soft, flexible and at the same time durable.

Selection of materials and preparation of the solution

To prepare a mortar for a future tile, it is necessary to purchase cement and sand, and you will also need water. The quality of the mixture depends on the proportions and the quality of the cement used. For garden paths, it is recommended to use cement grade M 500. All components must be clean, free of dirt, leaves. If large stones come across in the sand, it does not matter. This will give the tile a special texture.

Did you know? It is possible to increase the strength and resistance of tiles to temperature extremes by adding special plasticizers to the solution.

Having poured the components in the required proportion into the container, they must be mixed. To do this, you can use a perforator with a mixer nozzle. But if you plan to produce large volumes, it is better to purchase a concrete mixer in advance.

In the latter case, sand is first poured into the installation, the mixer is turned on, and cement is gradually added to it. After that, without ceasing to stir the mixture, add water and plasticizers in small portions as necessary.

Important! Too much water will make the concrete not as strong and the tile can quickly crumble during use. To prevent the solution from absorbing excess, reinforcing fiber and water-repellent additives are added to it.

In order for the tile to get the desired color, various inorganic pigments are added to the solution. It is important that they are resistant to alkaline environments, weather conditions and UV rays. Then your tiles will retain their color for a long time. It is recommended to first add about 30–50 g of dye to the solution and gradually increase its amount, if necessary. As a rule, within 5-7 minutes the solution acquires a uniform color. And the absence of lumps in it indicates the readiness of the solution for use.

How to pour a solution into a mold, process features

Now the solution can be poured into molds. Before this, the forms must be lubricated with any oil, but it is better with emulsol. Then, after drying, you can easily remove the product.

Important! At this stage, you can increase the strength of the product. To do this, the solution must be poured halfway into the mold, and then a wire, metal rod or mesh should be put into it. After that, add the solution to the brim.

But the question of how to make paving slabs with your own hands does not end there. There may be bubbles in the solution, which make the mass of cement unnecessarily loose. To eliminate this trouble, it is necessary to lay out the forms on a vibrating table. During constant light stirring, excess air will come out of the concrete. Such a table can be replaced by any shelf or rack. Forms are laid out on it, and then the structure is tapped on all sides with a mallet.

How to properly dry tiles and when to use them

The next step is drying the finished products. Filled molds should be covered with plastic wrap and wait about 3 days. Make sure that the required level of moisture is maintained in the future tile. To do this, they can be periodically moistened with water.

After drying, the molds are lightly tapped, the edges are bent and the products are taken out. But they still cannot be used - it is necessary to withstand another 3-4 weeks so that the tile is sufficiently dried and strengthened.

Manufacturing technology of rubber tiles

In addition to concrete, crumb rubber is used to make tiles. It is made from recycled car tires. The tires themselves are usually made of high quality material, as they can withstand heavy loads for a long time.

The crumb made from them can have different fractions, which vary from 0.1 mm to 10 mm. Which one to use depends on where the rubber tile will lie and what loads it will be subjected to.

It is made, as a rule, in black, but sometimes it can be painted in other colors. Moreover, usually large fractions (2-10 mm) are painted, which are much cheaper in cost, since they can include metal and textile parts.

Important! In the manufacture of colored tiles, it is necessary to form it in two layers, one of which is colored. This is acceptable if the total thickness of the product is more than 1.5 cm. Black tiles can be thinner, but are made in one layer.

The production of rubber tiles itself takes place in three stages.

• On the preparatory stage crumb rubber is being prepared. To do this, tires are removed from the bead rings and subjected to mechanical cryogenic processing. Then you get a crumb with a fraction of 1-4 mm.
• Then it is necessary to prepare a mixture from the crumbs by adding a polyurethane binder to it. At the same stage, various pigments are added to the tile to color it.
• The prepared mixture is pressed on a vulcanizing press. It allows you to set the tile to the desired thickness and density. The pressing process can be cold or hot. It all depends on what equipment you buy for work.

Filling the path with concrete

Another way to create a beautiful path in the country is to fill it with concrete. This process goes through the following stages:

• marking the territory for the tracks;
• soil preparation;
• formwork installation;
• pillow formation;
• installation of reinforcing elements;
• pouring concrete.

Required material and tools

To get started, you need to select the necessary materials and tools in advance:

• crushed stone;
• sand (preferably river);
• concrete;
• cord and pegs for marking;
• solution container;
• ruberoid;
• bucket;
• pointed shovel;
• Master OK;
• reinforcement (optimally 12 mm thick);
• plywood or formwork boards.

When all the tools and materials are collected, you can begin direct work.

How to mix concrete mortar

First of all, you need to mix the solution. It consists of 3 components (cement, sand and crushed stone), which are mixed in a certain proportion: a bucket of crushed stone and 3 buckets of sand are taken on a bucket of cement. It is better to knead them in a concrete mixer.

Mixing begins with adding water to the concrete mixer. Then sand is added to it and, constantly stirring, cement is introduced. When the sand is evenly distributed throughout the mass, the solution is considered ready. Now you can start filling.

This stage also has several stages. The fastest and easiest way is to mark the tracks. It is necessary to determine in advance where they will pass, what width to have and what loads to experience. Then, pegs are driven into the ground through a uniform distance, and a rope is pulled between them.

Now we need to prepare the soil for pouring. To do this, the top layer of turf is removed to a depth of about 7 cm, the roots of plants are removed. If they are not removed, they will rot in this place, voids will form in which water will accumulate. In winter, it will freeze, displacing concrete. Because of this, the tracks can crack.

The next step is to mount the formwork from boards or plywood. The latter allows you to give the track beautiful bends.

Important! It is necessary to fill the track in parts so that it has seams to compensate for compression and expansion of concrete due to different temperatures environment. Therefore, the formwork can be placed in parts. In addition, it will reduce the consumption of materials.

Then a so-called pillow is installed, which will perform the functions of drainage, as well as evenly distribute the load on the track. A cushion of sand and gravel is formed. They do not retain water, so it will not linger there and expand in winter due to freezing. But sand eventually sinks below rubble. To prevent this from happening, they lay out directly on the ground waterproofing materials: roofing material, agrofibre or geotextile.

Pleasure is not cheap, but everyone wants to make their yard clean and pretty, so I had such a great desire.

Buy paving stones required quantity I couldn’t - it turned out to be too expensive, but it’s easy to do it on my own :) It’s about how to make paving stones on my own, I will tell you in this article, fully illustrating the manufacturing process.

Required materials and fixtures

The technology for the production of paving stones, as well as its recipe, was found by me on the Internet, since there is more than enough information, and I set to work.

For the manufacture of such paving slabs, it is necessary to buy a superplasticizer and, if desired, a dye.

In the store, I bought several bags of 500 grade cement and a superplasticizer: it will increase the strength of the paving stones and increase its resistance to low temperatures.

Not a huge, of course, but quite a decent pile of sand, brought about a year ago from a local quarry, we left after the completion of the house.

And I decided not to buy a colorant-dye. To be honest, as for me, the difference between colored and gray paving stones is small, the color still turns out with a shade of gray!

As a vibrating table, without which the production of high-quality paving stones is simply impossible, it was decided to use an old Siemens washing machine, which has long served its time, but is still very much in working order. If anyone does not know what a vibrating table is for, I explain - with its help, the maximum compaction of the forms of any concrete elements is achieved, in our case paving stones, which become more homogeneous and, accordingly, strong.

I will tell you about the forms separately and in more detail :)

About forms for self-production of paving stones

When I shared the idea of ​​making paving stones on my own with my friends, some of them suggested that I make the molds myself. Some offered to put them together from old boards, the second advised to use unnecessary containers - trays, vessels, and so on, and others persuaded them to be made from a special polymer. Of course, I am a girl with “hands”, but I did not dare to do this, I decided to purchase ready-made forms. They are quite diverse, so you can choose the shape with beautiful pattern, which will be imprinted on the surface of the finished product, giving it a special charm and chic.

To make paving stones with your own hands or not, everyone decides for himself, and I can only say that it is exciting, easy and profitable. I hope my little master class on making paving stones will be useful for you, try it and brag about your results!

The manufacture of a facing material of this type is laborious, but at the same time, technologically, it does not represent anything particularly complicated. You will need the following tools and equipment for self-casting paving slabs for the courtyard of the house or cottage:

• concrete mixer;
• buckets and shovel;
• vibrating table.

Also, of course, you will have to purchase or make your own tile molds. Of the materials for the manufacture of such a facing material, you will need:

• fine gravel;
• sand;
• cement;
• mold lubrication oil;
• pigment dye;
• plasticizer.

The main stages of manufacture

It is necessary to pour paving concrete tiles with your own hands approximately according to the following technology:

• a mixture is prepared in a concrete mixer;
• set the forms on the vibrating table;
• grease the molds with oil;
• include a vibrating table;
• wait until the mixture is evenly distributed over the form;
• leave the tiles to dry inside the molds for 1-2 days.

The finished facing material is removed from the molds and left to dry for several more days. Further, the tiles are used for their intended purpose.

How to prepare the mixture

Concrete mortar for paving slabs is recommended to be made exclusively in a concrete mixer. Unfortunately, it will be practically impossible to manually make a high-quality mixture for casting such a facing material.

When using manual mixing technology, the solution will in any case not be particularly homogeneous. Accordingly, the tiles made from it will not differ in too good performance characteristics.

The concrete mass is prepared for the manufacture of paving slabs in the proportion of cement / fine gravel / sand as 1/1/2. At the same time, water is taken so much that the finished solution has the consistency of wet cottage cheese.

In any case, diluting the prepared concrete mixture with too much water is highly discouraged. Otherwise, the tile will turn out to be fragile in the future and will quickly break down during operation. It is necessary to use a thick mixture for the manufacture of paving cladding. Subsequently, during vibrocompaction in molds, the concrete will still become much more liquid and plastic.

What are plasticizers for?

This ingredient in the solution intended for the manufacture of paving slabs must be present. A plasticizer is needed to increase the fluidity and elasticity of the solution without the need for additional addition of water.

When using such a substance, the cement mixture becomes more dense and durable. And this, in turn, of course, has the most positive effect on the quality of the finished paving slabs.

Preparation of plasticizer for casting

It is necessary to use such mixtures in the preparation of mortar for tiles in very small quantities. Only about half a percent should be contained in the finished mass of plasticizers. If more mixtures of this type are added to the solution, the finished tile, as with excess water, may turn out to be too fragile.

Of course, the plasticizer for tile mortar, among other things, must also be properly prepared. Such mixtures are sold in specialized stores in dry form. Before adding to the cement mixture, they must be diluted with water.

To prepare the plasticizer:

• water heated to 40 ° C is poured into some container;
• pour the dry mixture there;
• everything is thoroughly mixed for at least 15 minutes with a construction mixer.

A plasticizer is prepared in the manufacture of paving slabs in the proportion of water/dry mixture as 2:1. After mixing, the solution must also be insisted for several hours.

Prepare a plasticizer for mortar under the tile, usually in the evening. In this case, in the morning, this ingredient can simply be mixed for 15 minutes and added to the mixture.

What is a vibrating table

Equipment of this type, if desired, can be made by hand. The design elements of a vibrating table designed for pouring paving slabs are:

• frame welded from a steel corner;
• metal sheet laid on top of the frame on spring or rubber shock absorbers;
• eccentric motor.

The width and length of the "countertop" of such equipment is selected depending on the size of the future tile. One vibrating table, designed for the manufacture of such a cladding with your own hands, is usually designed for 4-6 forms.

Brief Instructions for Filling Forms

Forms for tiles are placed on the table close to each other. This arrangement makes it easier to fill them in the future.

After the forms are installed on the vibrating table, they are carefully lubricated with some kind of oil - vegetable oil or even, for example, just ordinary mining. This procedure allows in the future to obtain tiles with a perfectly flat surface.

In addition, when using oil in the manufacturing process, paving slabs will not stick to the walls and bottom of the mold. And this, in turn, further facilitates the excavation of the finished facing material.

The cement-sand mortar prepared in a concrete mixer is laid with a trowel in the center of the molds. After all the containers are filled, turn on the vibrating table. Operate such equipment to obtain quality tiles should be at least 3-4 minutes. After turning on the table, the mixture under the action of vibration begins to be evenly distributed over the forms.

After a white “foam” appears on the surface of the cement mixture in the containers, the table can be turned off. Followed by:

• cover the molds with the solution with a film or, for example, with a piece of plywood;
• During the day, periodically water the hardening tiles with water to avoid the appearance of surface cracks on them.

The finished facing material is taken out of the molds, most often on the second day after pouring. Frozen tiles are placed in a dry, dark place and left to ripen for at least another 5 days.

Use of pigments

Actually, the concrete itself, as you know, has a not too pleasant gray color. In order for the finished tile, intended, for example, for a garden path, to be aesthetically attractive, in cement mortar among other things, pigment dyes are often added.

These units are, unfortunately, quite expensive. Therefore, to reduce the cost of the finished tile during its manufacture, the following solution coloring technology is sometimes used:

• divide the concrete mixture into two halves;
• pigment is added to one of the parts, and the second is left unpainted.

Subsequently, when pouring into the mold, the colored solution is first placed and the vibrating table is turned on. After the mixture has spread over the surface of the container, the uncolored mixture is added.

When using this technology, a relatively inexpensive beautiful colored tile with an ordinary gray concrete "base" is obtained. This cladding looks no worse than fully painted.

Is it possible to do without a vibrating table?

When using such equipment, homemade, hand-made tiles, of course, turn out to be of the highest quality. In addition, the use of a vibrating table also greatly facilitates the procedure for manufacturing such a cladding. However, such equipment, of course, is not available in every household.

The vibrating tables used for the manufacture of paving slabs are quite expensive. Assembling them with your own hands to many owners of suburban areas who decide to line the yard with paving slabs may seem like an unnecessary procedure. Indeed, in the future, the vibrating table in the household may not be useful.

In order not to waste extra money and time, many owners country houses they simply make tiles with their own hands without using a vibrating table. In this case, the following method of casting paving cladding is used:

• the form is set on a regular table;
• put the first small portion of the mixture into the container;
• carefully level the solution with a trowel;
• impose the next portion of the concrete mixture.

Thus, the form is filled with a solution to the brim. Then they begin to compact the mixture, raising the edge of the container with sharp frequent movements and lowering it with a not too strong impact on the table.

It takes a long time to compact the mixture in the mold manually, just as when using a vibrating table. This will significantly increase the strength of finished facing products.

In any case, the mixture compaction procedure should take at least 4 minutes. After the solution in the form becomes liquid, it is additionally leveled with a spatula, while removing excess. After two days, as with the use of a vibrating table, the frozen tile is removed from the molds.

The final stage

After removing the finished tile, the surface of the molds usually remains fairly clean. However, it is necessary to wash such containers after the production of paving cladding material is completed. And it is desirable to do this immediately.

If molds are not cleaned, pieces of concrete adhering to their bottom and walls will adversely affect the quality of the next batch of tiles. They wash containers intended for the manufacture of paving cladding, usually either simply with warm water or with a strong saline solution.

If the owners plan to equip paths on their suburban area or sites around a private city house, then they will inevitably have to make a decision about what material will do it better and more economically. Today, a fairly popular coating used everywhere has become paving slabs of various colors and configurations.

However, this material, as well as its transportation and unloading, is not cheap, especially during transportation, losses are possible, which means purchasing tiles with a margin, and this will also be extra spending. Therefore, many homeowners are thinking about how to make paving slabs at home and save a decent amount at the same time.

Benefits of making your own tiles

It is quite possible to make this material yourself. Of course, the lack of special equipment and accumulated experience will make this process quite lengthy, but it will save you from searching for a variant that is suitable in terms of pattern and color.

If the decision is made to take self-manufacturing paving slabs, then you need to be prepared for quite laborious work. However, the result obtained from it will exceed all expectations, when the paths or the area near the house will have exactly the look that the owners intended when developing the landscape design of their possessions.

The advantage of home-made is that you can independently create an exclusive version of the tile, which is not produced either on an industrial scale, or in general, or by anyone else.

In the process of developing your own version of a tile, there is always the opportunity to experiment with colors and even forms, since molds for casting can also be made independently.

Forms for the manufacture of paving slabs

In the event that a tile of the desired configuration was not found in the store, or it was found, but it has a too high price, or its color does not quite suit the owners, then you can always find a way out of this situation by making matrices for its manufacture yourself. Such forms are usually prepared in the amount of several pieces, and already with their help they produce as many paving slabs as will be necessary for the improvement of paths and sites on the site.

paving slabs

For this, only a few copies of the finished tile of any color are purchased, according to which forms are made. In addition to tiles, a board with a beautiful textured pattern, or a stone that you like with its outlines, can be used as an initial sample.

Matrices can be single, that is, designed for one tile, or complex, in which several products are made at once. The second option is more difficult to make, but already during the production of tiles, the work will go much faster.

To make a form, you will need formwork material and, of course, a special composition for casting the matrix.

The formwork is made larger than the size of the original sample by 20 ÷ 30 mm in height and 12 ÷ 15 mm in width. At the same time, it should be taken into account that paving slabs must have a thickness of at least 35 ÷ 60 mm. A plywood box, a cardboard box, or any other material that can withstand the pouring of a plastic mold compound is suitable as a formwork. The matrices themselves are made from a two-component polyurethane-based compound, or from silicone sealant.

Polyurethane mold

In the assortment of hardware stores, you can find several types of compound specifically designed for the manufacture of matrices for gypsum castings, artificial facade stone and paving slabs. One of the most popular of them can be called the domestic composition "Silagerm 5035", as it has excellent technical and physical characteristics. The molding composition is made on the basis of polyurethane and is produced in two hardness parameters - 30 and 40 units. according to the Shore table. Its main indicators are shown in the table

	Hardness 30±3	Hardness 40±3
Time of formation of a surface film after contact of components with air, (min) no more.	45÷100	45÷100
Viability (min), no more.	60÷120	60÷120
	3.0÷4.5	3.5÷5.0
	450÷600	400÷600
Shrinkage (%), no more.	1	1
Viscosity (cps).	3000÷3500	3000÷3500
Density (g/cm³), no more.	1.07±0.02	1.07±0.02

The manufacture of a matrix from a compound is carried out as follows:

• The sample for the manufacture of the matrix must be well washed and dried.
• Further, the original sample and the interior of the prepared formwork are covered with a solution consisting of white spirit and wax. This composition is applied in two layers. It can be replaced with a ready-made wax lubricant.
• Then a two-component mixture is prepared. To do this, a hardener is added to the paste in proportions of 2: 1, and the mass is mixed until smooth. It is very important to observe the proportions, since the correct hardening of the finished material will depend on them.

If preparing a large number of mixture, then the preparation process is carried out using a drill with a mixer nozzle, but a small volume can be mixed with a spatula. When kneading the mass, the drill turns on at low speed, otherwise the composition will turn out with a large number of air bubbles. If the unmixed components of the compound are not fully used, then the containers with them must be tightly closed with standard lids to prevent contact with air.

• The finished mixture is carefully poured into the formwork, in which the template is laid face up. The filling composition must cover the original sample completely and the thickness of its layer above its upper part must be at least 8÷10 mm.
• Upon completion of the pouring, the formwork should be moved back and forth a little, shaking slightly to rid the mixture of air bubbles. Then, with pouring, it should stand for 5 ÷ 7 minutes - during this time, air bubbles will rise to the surface, and they can be carefully removed with a spatula.
• After 24 hours, the mixture will harden and the mold can be removed from the formwork. However, it is allowed to use it for its intended purpose only after 72 hours, after the material acquires all the qualities declared by the manufacturer. After this time, the form will be able to withstand even the poured mass, heated to 80 ÷ 120 degrees.
• The mold from the compound will last for a long time if, before filling it with a solution for making tiles, it is treated with a special compound "Type 90".

This compound is sold in buckets weighing 1.5 and 7.5 kg.

paving slabs brick

Silicone matrix

The silicone compound can also be two-component, packed in buckets, and requires preparation according to the instructions (generally - similar to the process described above). But you can also use ordinary silicone, which is known to everyone as a sealant. You need to buy it as much as it takes to make the mold, since after opening the package it immediately begins to set. Therefore, the factory packaging of one-component silicone should be opened after the formwork and the original sample are greased and ready for pouring. As a lubricant, ordinary grease is most often used.

A sample of the future tile is laid with the front side up, also lubricated with grease and filled with silicone. The thickness above the top of the source should also be 8÷10 mm.

If a tile made of gypsum is used as a sample, then it must first be treated with several layers of drying oil or varnish.

To distribute silicone over the formwork, a spatula or brush is used, which are dipped in a soap solution prepared in advance.

A thick layer of silicone dries much longer than a compound - this period can be from two weeks to a month, and sometimes more. The duration of the period depends on the thickness and depth of the filled layer. Therefore, it is better to prepare the form for tiles in advance, for example, devoting winter time to this, so that the matrices are guaranteed to be ready for summer, since it is better to work with cement from which paving slabs will be made in the warm season, or at least at a positive temperature .

When the form is ready, it is removed from the formwork and washed well to remove grease. Next, you can start making tiles.

The main parameters of a standard one-component silicone sealant are shown in the table:

Main indicators of the material	Normalized values	Test Results
The time of formation of a surface film after extrusion of the sealant from the tube (min) no more.	30	5÷25
Viability (h), no more.	8	6÷8
Conditional tensile strength MPa, not less than	0.1	0.4÷0.6
Relative elongation at break (%), not less.	300	400÷600
Yield resistance (mm), no more.	2	0÷1
Water absorption by weight (%), no more.	1	0.35÷0.45
Density (g/cm³), no more.	1200	1100÷1200
Durability, conditional years, not less.	20	20

It should be noted that if the owners have no desire to engage in the manufacture of matrices on their own, then it can be purchased at a specialized store. However, in this case, the paths on the suburban area may not differ at all from the neighboring ones.

When choosing a ready-made matrix, you should not buy plastic mold(without special need, as will be discussed below). It is better to give preference to polyurethane, silicone or rubber.

Making paving slabs at home

Not every home has special equipment with which you can quickly and efficiently do. Therefore, further we will consider methods that allow you to make it using improvised means. Of course, special forms are indispensable, and they can be made according to the instructions above or purchased ready-made. Ideally, for high-quality and fast production, it would be nice to have a vibrating table. However, as will be shown below, on a small scale it is quite possible to cast tiles without it.

Making square tiles using a plastic mold

Square tiles can be called traditional. It does not go out of fashion, as it gives the paths rigor and accuracy. It is especially important to use this version of the tile to decorate the path leading to the house from the entrance to the site.

Illustration
	In this case, a plastic mold with a size of 300 × 300 mm and a thickness of 30 mm is used to make tiles. The relief pattern of this version of the matrix is ​​​​called "California shagreen". Plastic molds are convenient in that they have sufficient rigidity and do not deform during the laying of the mortar, but it is more difficult to extract the finished product from them due to the same rigidity. So that the form lasts as long as possible, and it was easier to extract from it finished tiles, before pouring the solution, it is recommended to treat the matrix with grease.
	To mix the mortar required for one such tile, you will need coarse sand - 3 kg.
	In addition to sand, you need to prepare cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, ordinary tap water 0.5 liters, red color powder 70 g, and plasticizer - 25 ml.
	To mix the solution, you will need to prepare a container - it can be a plastic or enameled bucket. It is not recommended to use a galvanized container, since the dye or plasticizer can cause oxidation, as a result of which the color chosen for the tile can change.
	Sand and cement are poured into the prepared container. AT this case, the master chose such a mixing technology, but it will be easier to mix the mass if the dry mixture is prepared in advance - sand and cement are pre-mixed.
	So, sand and cement are thoroughly mixed using a drill with a mixer nozzle.
	The next step, in a separate container, water, dry dye and plasticizer are mixed until homogeneous.
	As a result of this mixing, a red liquid should be obtained.
	The finished solution is poured into a dry cement-sand mixture.
	All components are thoroughly mixed with a mixer - this process should be carried out for at least 3 ÷ 5 minutes.
	After kneading, a sufficiently thick viscous coarse-grained mass should be obtained. It will acquire the necessary density in the process of putting it into shape and tamping.
	Next, the resulting mixture is laid out in a greased form. First, half of the finished mixture is laid out in the matrix.
	The mass must be distributed with the greatest possible uniformity in shape, lifting it and shaking the matrix.
	Then the remaining mixture is laid out and first distributed with a spatula or trowel. When filling the matrix with a solution, it must be carefully compacted by pressing with a trowel. Pay special attention to the corners of the form - they must be well filled.
	Further, the matrix is ​​“shaken” for a long time - this process occurs until the mass is compacted to the maximum and forms a completely flat surface. When shaking, air bubbles will come out of the solution. It is advisable to carry out this work until the air stops coming out completely. When the tiles are produced in large quantities, a special vibrating table is used to compact the fills - it greatly facilitates the work. However, if molded products are made for only one track, then it will not be profitable to buy or make a vibrating table on your own. The form is left to harden for 24 hours. This indicator is valid for an air temperature of +20 degrees, and can change upwards in cooler weather - this will have to be determined experimentally.
	After the required period of time has elapsed, the matrix is ​​turned over, and the tile is carefully removed from it.
	If necessary, you can press a little on some areas of the bottom of the form, so that the product is easier to lag behind.
	The result is a neat, smooth tile, but it cannot be used immediately, as it must finally dry out and gain strength. To do this, the tiles are placed on edge and left for at least three days. And the final set of the necessary strength, with the possibility of applying the full load on the laid tiles, will end approximately two weeks after manufacture.

Production of original paving slabs "pine cut" in polyurethane form

The original design of the sites and paths is the laying of wooden round timber on them. However, wood absorbs moisture well, is subject to gradual decay and damage by various insects. Concrete tiles imitating a cut of wood will be an excellent substitute for natural material.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	This one is very original version paving slabs, having a diameter of 300 mm and a thickness of 40 mm, consists of two layers made from solutions of different colors. It is somewhat more difficult to make it than a single-color one, since the work will have to be carried out very carefully, making sure that the solutions do not mix with each other. This tile is called "pine cut" as it imitates the cut round timber of a tree trunk. The inner part has a beige color and the relief of annual rings, while the outer frame repeats the pattern of coarsened pine bark.
	For the manufacture of such products, a polyurethane flexible form is used, which can be made independently using the technology described in the article above. Since the polyurethane matrix does not have the proper rigidity, it must be installed on a perfectly flat surface. For a stand under it, a plywood sheet is usually used, which in the future will help to shake the solution after filling the form. Shaking a flexible matrix filled with a rather heavy solution will be extremely difficult.
	To get a core with "annual rings", for one such tile you will need white cement 100 ÷ 150 g, sand of medium fraction - 300 ÷ 350 g, yellow or beige color - 50 g, plasticizer 20 ÷ 25 ml. and 200÷250 ml. water.
	Water, color and plasticizer are combined in one container and mixed well.
	Next, the resulting solution is poured into a mixture of white cement and sand. All components are well mixed until homogeneous. If necessary, you can add a small amount of water.
	The result should be about 0.5 liters of the finished mixture.
	The mass is laid out in the middle of the form, previously smeared with wax grease. It may seem that it is too small, but this is a misleading impression, since when the mixture is distributed, it will fill all the space intended for it. The mass is distributed only along the inner part of the mold, which imitates the core of a round timber with annual rings. This layer should have a thickness equal to or slightly less than the height of the side that separates the middle part of the "round timber" from the improvised "bark".
	The solution should be thick enough. Therefore, it is first distributed with a spatula, gently pressing it to the bottom of the mold. It is impossible to dilute the mixture, since the mass that will be laid on top of it can mix with the more liquid bottom, and spoil the whole intended effect of the tile.
	Since there is little mixture in the matrix, the mold after the initial distribution is moved back and forth on the surface of the table and gently shaken.
	Further, the mass is again distributed with a spatula, and it is pressed tightly against the mold.
	After that, the matrix with the mixture is shaken again until the mass fills all the space allotted for it. The result should be an even, smooth pancake when viewed from above.
	The next step is to prepare a solution for pouring the framing of the core of the round timber with “bark”. For the mixture intended to form this layer, and indeed the entire main part of the tile, it is necessary to prepare gray cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, water 0.5 l, plasticizer - 35 gr., brown color 60 ÷ 70 gr., sand coarse fraction 3.5÷4 kg.
	Sand and cement mix well with a mixer. Then, a solution is prepared separately from water, dye and plasticizer.
	Half of the solution is added to the mixture and mixed with the same mixer. During mixing, some or all of the remainder of the solution is added. The mass should be quite thick and crumbly.
	With the help of a trowel, the mixture is laid out in a matrix. First, the edges of the form are filled with it, which will imitate the bark of a tree.
	Then, the mixture is laid out on the entire plane of the container. When the entire composition is laid out, it forms a slide, which must be carefully distributed with a trowel. The form needs to be shaken a little. Since it is quite plastic, a sheet of plywood laid under it will come to the rescue, one of its edges is lifted and shaken, that is, they produce vibrating movements.
	Then, the mixture is again compacted with a trowel, continuing to distribute it.
	The mold filled with the mixture continues to be subjected to vibration until its surface of the solution becomes even and smooth. It should fill the entire relief pattern on the side walls of the matrix. The finished mixture is left in the mold for a day to harden.
	After 24 hours, the matrix is ​​gently inverted.
	Then, the mold is carefully removed from the tile. A polyurethane or silicone matrix has an advantage over a plastic one in that it is much easier to remove it from the finished product, and the risk of damaging it is not so high.
	The finished tile must finally dry and gain strength, this will take at least 2-3 days. When dried, the product will acquire a lighter shade, so if you want to get a rich color, you can add more color. However, it must be taken into account that too much dye makes the solution less durable.
	If it is decided to make a mold for such a tile on your own, then it is necessary to take as a basis natural round timber from any tree you like in terms of texture, with a well-defined structure of coarsened bark. Before pouring silicone or compound in the process of manufacturing the matrix, it is necessary to process the sample, deepening the textured pattern, otherwise the desired effect may not work. Pay attention to the groove between the bark and the wood itself - it also needs to be deepened - as a result, a small rim will appear on the matrix, which helps to carry out high-quality layer-by-layer filling. After laying the tiles, this thin gap will quickly fill with soil and become invisible. You can also carefully fill it yourself with a grout or ordinary cement composition.

Paving slabs made "in place" using a stencil

Another affordable way equip garden paths- this is pouring them with concrete mortar using a polypropylene stencil. With the help of this convenient fixture it is quite possible to ennoble quickly enough not only narrow paths, but also entire areas.

This guide can help you figure out how to properly prepare a space for tracks, and how to use a stencil. In addition, attention will be drawn to how the concrete surface can be decorated.

paving slabs

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	For such work from the tools you will need to prepare: - building level; - large and small spatula; - Master OK; - bayonet and shovel; - pump-action sprayer; - container for mixing mortar or concrete mixer, - a wheelbarrow is desirable for delivering the mixture to the place of pouring. After getting acquainted with the process of work, each master can replenish the list with tools that are convenient for him, or remove unnecessary ones from the list presented.
	From the materials you need to prepare: - plastic mold for tiles; - cement M-500; - coarse sand; - dye, if you plan to make the tile multi-colored; - black polyethylene for flooring on the ground; - slag or crushed stone of fine fraction. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that from one bag of cement of 50 kg, 6 ÷ 7 slabs with a size of 600 × 600 mm and a thickness of 60 mm can be obtained. This list can be replenished with curbs, since the path will not last long on an unenclosed site - the edges will begin to collapse.
	A few words need to be said about the stencil itself. The design of the form is well thought out - its side walls are wider than the middle ones that separate the tiles. Thanks to this arrangement, after pouring concrete into it and gaining strength, not individual stones are formed, but a solid slab, divided by gaps in the upper part by only ⅔ of the total thickness. Besides? the form should have two technological holes in which handles are fixed, which will help to easily remove the stencil from the set concrete.
	For the track to last long term and not overgrown with grass, it is necessary to prepare a place for pouring it. To do this, first of all, a fertile soil layer is removed from the marked area, approximately 100 ÷ 120 mm deep. Then, the soil is compacted, and it is advisable to lay a black plastic film on top of it, which will prevent the germinating grass from breaking through. Next, there is a layer of cement-gravel, cement-sand mixture, just sand or slag 50 mm thick. Some save on bedding and make it only 30 mm thick, but this will not be enough. If you do it honestly, then 50 mm is the optimal thickness. This layer is moistened and compacted again.
	If a narrow path is being laid, it is recommended to immediately install curbs. If you plan to fence the path curbstones, they can be installed after the track is formed.
	Next, a stencil is laid on the prepared place, treated from the inside with engine oil using a brush. In order to save the solution, as well as to increase the strength of the created slab and its peculiar reinforcement, crushed stone of a large fraction can be placed in the inner space of the mold.
	The next step is to mix the cement mortar. It can be made in a concrete mixer or in a container of suitable size. The concrete mixture should be prepared in this way: for 1 kg of cement and 3 kg of coarse sand, 35 gr. plasticizer and, if desired, dye is added.
	If 5 ÷ 6 forms are poured at once, then it is better, of course, to prepare the solution in a concrete mixer. In this case, it is kneaded in the following proportions: for 50 kg of cement, 250 g must be prepared. plasticizer-accelerator, 9 buckets of fine gravel, 6 buckets of clean river sand. Water is added as much as necessary to achieve the desired consistency of the mixture. With such a volume of solution, a concrete mixer designed for 0.3 cubic meters can handle. m. In order to adjust the composition for a smaller concrete mixer, it is necessary to proportionally reduce the component composition. If colored tiles are made, then it is permissible to add color in the amount of 2 to 8% of the amount of cement, depending on how light or dark the paving is supposed to be.
	The prepared solution is filled in the laid form. It is very important that the mixture completely fills the entire space of the stencil. Particular attention must be paid to filling the corners.
	The solution is distributed with a trowel. Thanks to its pointed spatula, the mass will be easy to place in the corners under the stencil webs. It is better to put more mixtures than required than not to report, as the excess is easy to remove with a trowel.
	The solution is leveled on the upper jumpers of the stencil using a wide spatula. Excess mixture is removed with a trowel. It is recommended to level the surface of the future tile to perfect smoothness, as its wear resistance and durability will depend on this.
	After waiting 20 ÷ 30 minutes until the solution sets, the stencil is removed from the tile by grabbing the handles screwed into the technological holes. This must be done very carefully and strictly vertically, since the concrete has not yet completely hardened, and it is likely that one of the corners of the tile will be damaged during an awkward movement.
	The result should be such a concrete slab.
	The form removed from the previous plate is placed next to it, observing a gap of about 10 mm. Then, the stencil is checked with a building level for evenness, and, if necessary, a sand bed or a support of flat stone or ceramic tile is made in one or two corners.
	Further, the process is repeated, that is, crushed stone is placed in the form, then it is filled with a solution that is leveled, and so on, until the entire planned path (site) is closed.
	If the path is framed by curbs already installed along it, then after the coating is completely ready, the gaps between the plates and curbs are also filled with mortar. In addition, the gaps formed between the tiles can also be filled with concrete mortar, covered with sand or soil with seeds of a special lawn grass, which rises by only 30 ÷ 50 mm.
	The gaps between the plates can be left empty. However, it must be taken into account that over time they will become clogged with soil, which may contain weed seeds, and it can subsequently clog the entire path and even contribute to the destruction of the plates.
	If desired, in the process of manufacturing such a coating, it can be decorated with broken ceramic tiles. It is pressed into the solution that has just been poured into the stencil, and then the surface is again leveled with a spatula.
	If you want to add garden plot colorfulness, then the tile can be made multi-colored by filling the cells of the stencil with solutions in which different colors are added. This process will take more time and effort, but a site with such interesting paths will always cheer you up. Using several dyes, it is advisable to prepare two or three molds for pouring. So the work will be more efficient, since it is possible to fill areas in several stencils at once with a solution of the same color.

Starting work on arranging paths in this way, it is imperative to take an interest in the weather forecast for the coming days, otherwise all work may go down the drain if it suddenly rains heavily on the very first night after the formation of the paths.

The stencil will greatly facilitate the work on arranging the site. Although this form is quite expensive, but having only two or three such matrices, you can quickly lay paths and ennoble the sites of the entire territory without the involvement of third-party masters.

Another important point. When purchasing a finished tile, you should remember that laying it correctly is not so easy. Therefore, if it is not possible to make paving on your own, you will have to invite specialists and pay them an amount for the work, which, at a minimum, will be equal to the cost of the tile itself.

The stencil will not allow you to make gross mistakes. Even without any experience in this area, any site owner will be able to independently make high-quality neat surfaces. Of course, if all technological recommendations are followed, increased accuracy will be manifested, and the novice master himself will mobilize all his abilities and skills.

Video: the work of the master - the manufacture of paving slabs for natural wood