home Heaters

How to insulate the front metal door to the apartment. Let's not let a draft into our house! Do-it-yourself insulation of the front door. Insulation of the entrance to the apartment with drywall

As you know, in the insulation of housing there is nothing superfluous. Floor, ceiling, walls, windows - everything must be carefully insulated if you want your apartment to keep comfort. And the insulation of the door in this situation is no less important concern.

The drafts coming from front door can bring a lot of trouble. Any design: wooden, metal, - in itself does not save from the cold. Therefore, additional insulation of the door is required.

How to do all the work correctly so that the door faithfully serves to preserve warmth and comfort in your home for many years, we will tell in this article.

Ways to insulate front doors

If the manufacturer has provided for thermal insulation of the door, then you will not have to make much effort, because the insulation layer is already inside the structure. But most often we buy a regular, standard door leaf, because it is much cheaper.

How tightly you need to insulate your door depends on what material it is made of. As a rule, doors are:

metal;
wooden;
plastic.

To isolate plastic blocks, tools and special skills are needed, in this case it would be more correct to turn to the services of professionals. But wooden or metal door easy to trim and insulate with your own hands.

The best option for insulation may be the installation of a second door. Thus, a small vestibule is created with air cushion between the front and inner doors, which will slow down the escape of heat from the room, and at the same time will not let the cold outside.

In addition, any gaps around the box should be sealed. doorway- It is through them that the cold penetrates into the room. To do this, it is enough to use mounting foam.

You will also need to use a sealer. The greater the load it can withstand, the better, because the doors have to be opened and closed frequently. This material is presented on the construction market in a wide range. Sellers will help you choose the most suitable for your door.

If your apartment is located on the ground floor, it is better to immediately take care that the entrance door of the entrance closes automatically. To do this, you can install a closer. An agreement with the neighbors about the intercom will solve this issue thoroughly.

Insulation of the front door with foam rubber

If you want the insulation of the front door to not take you a lot of time and money, use the most familiar, common material -. It is not suitable for sealing on the sides of the door frame, but it can be sewn onto wooden door at both sides.

To work, you will need the following:

Foam rubber;
Upholstery fabric;
Glue;
Threshold board;
Rails made of wood and plastic.

Please note: the upholstery for the door must be water-repellent. The best solution would be dermantin, artificial leather or sackcloth.

1. First of all, cut off the outdated coating from the door and get rid of the remnants of insulating materials. Wash the surface thoroughly.
2. After the door dries, stick on its inside and outside with layers of foam rubber, cut strictly to size. If necessary, pieces of foam rubber can be glued together in 2-3 layers (for example, if the material is thin, or you think that additional insulation will not damage).
3. Now stretch the upholstery over the foam rubber, fixing it to the door with nails or a construction stapler. You can decorate the surface with a pattern of wallpaper nails. Do not overdo it: the nails are pressed and pressed into the insulation, because of this, its heat-saving properties are lost.
4. It's time for the door frame. Fill the rails around the perimeter of the door, which were previously covered with foam rubber and fabric. At the same time, control the position closed door: it should fit snugly, without gaps.
5. The last step is setting the threshold. The board for the threshold should completely close the gap under the door, but not prevent the door leaf from opening and closing.

Instead of foam rubber, you can use materials such as polystyrene foam (2 to 5 cm thick) or polyethylene foam. In terms of their heat capacity, they are superior to any traditionally used materials.

Such a simple and economical way will help you quickly insulate the door, additionally protecting you from extraneous noise.

Insulation of metal doors

Metal doors can create so-called cold bridges. Through them, frost sneaks into the room, even if the door leaf is completely sealed and closes tightly. Therefore, the purpose of insulating a metal door is the following:

increasing the sealing of the door;
insulation of all metal parts of the product, except for the door handle;
the placement of insulating material inside the door leaf.

The design of almost all metal doors is hollow. Thanks to this, it is very easy to place mineral wool or foam board inside as an insulating material.

For your information: if you have a Chinese door, then you should know that its tin box is factory welded. In order to disassemble such a structure, contact the services of a specialist who, after finishing the insulation work, will weld the structure.

So, the process of warming metal doors will look like this:

Carefully remove the locks and door handles;
Disassemble the box (in case the fastening is carried out by welding seams, they must be removed with an angle grinder);
Lay the insulation inside the empty box;
Assemble the door structure to its original position.

If you chose polystyrene to insulate the door, then there will be gaps between the sheet and the fixing and fixing metal profiles. In order to ensure, fill these spaces with foam.

If you have a non-separable door, it can be insulated with an internal additional lining. To do this, remove the door from the hinges, remove the handles, locks and other adjusting fittings. Screw a beam with a diameter of 10 X 10 mm along the perimeter of the door leaf from the inside, stretch the upholstery for the entrance doors and fix it on the beam with special nails.

What to do if additional insulation is not enough?

Well insulated outer door should not let a single gram of cold air into the room, nor should it let heat out. But you may encounter the fact that you seem to have done all the work correctly, but the expected result was not achieved. What could be the reason?

First of all, pay attention to whether it was correctly located during installation, and whether there were any gaps in the mounting foam. Both causes equally lead to a violation of the sealing of the entire structure.

To determine the quality of foaming and find the gap, use the traditional folk method: Light a candle and slowly move along the joints of the door frame. Even the smallest draft will begin to shake the flame, thereby pointing you to the remaining gap.

In order to properly adjust the door leaf, you will need sets of hexagons and socket wrenches.

Adjustment is carried out due to canopies, which are usually 4-5 pieces on the door. Each canopy is fixed with a fixing nut and four bolts. Adjustment work is carried out as follows:

lower the adjusting nut on all hinges;
lower the bolts with a hexagon and level the canvas;
tighten the bolts and fix their position with a nut.

Tip: There is an easy way to determine the desired thickness of the seal. Roll a roller out of plasticine, wrap it in polyethylene and place it in the gap between the box and the door. After you close the door, the plasticine will take the necessary shape, which you need to navigate when choosing a material.

Work on insulation with a sealant is quite simple: remove protective film and glue the seal around the entire perimeter of the canvas. If your caulk does not have an adhesive backing, use liquid nails or silicone.

Do not forget to check the integrity and condition of the door frame. If it is rotten, replace it before you start the insulation. If you mounted the box on mounting foam, check if it crumbled.

As you can see, self-insulation of almost any door can be done even by a beginner. Share with us and other readers your practical experience in such work, ask any questions, and we will be happy to discuss all comments and suggestions. Warmth and comfort to your home!

How to insulate an iron front door - this issue is relevant for both apartment owners and private houses, this is due to the fact that metal doors are the most popular today, but the disadvantage of many of these models is poor thermal insulation. If in terms of security this is an ideal option that can protect you from hacking, then there are many questions about the heat-insulating and sound-absorbing properties of such doors, but do not worry, you can fix this problem quite easily and quickly by doing the insulation work yourself.

Often the front door, especially metal, requires additional insulation.

materials

How can you insulate an iron front door? market today building materials provides a huge range of heaters of various kinds. Depending on the minimum temperature in winter, you can purchase expensive and high-quality polyurethane foam or polystyrene. If you live in an area with a fairly warm climate, you can limit yourself to more simple materials. In such cases, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, foam rubber and isolon sheets are often used for insulation. From loose insulation for doors, you can use foam granules, polystyrene foam, ecowool.

Mineral wool - a traditional insulation for entrance doors

Since there are several ways to insulate an iron door and other structural elements in a private house, it is necessary to select the material based on the thickness of the metal, the structural features of the door, its standard content and other characteristics. In addition, care should be taken to seal the seams and cracks in the wall itself.

Internal insulation of a standard door

So, how to insulate an iron front door? Standard models are a sheet of metal reinforced with stiffeners. Some modern doors can be opened and their interiors can be seen. Simple models are a single sheet of thick steel. In both cases, this method of insulation will be suitable.

First you need to remove all accessories: handles, locks, peephole. It is necessary to take dimensions from each section, separated by stiffeners, based on these data, it is necessary to cut the insulation into fragments for each section, and then put each piece in its place. The edges of the insulation should fit snugly against the walls of the door, so when cutting it is better to add 5-10 mm on each side. Seal all joints with sealant or polyurethane foam to eliminate cold bridges.

The design of a high-quality front door always implies a layer of insulation

After that, a sheet is cut out of fiberboard or plywood, identical in size to the door leaf. Put it on top of the insulation. Using self-tapping screws for metal, screw the sheet tightly to the door leaf. Depending on the type of metal, a drill may be additionally needed, then the plywood is fixed with screws.

Internal insulation of non-separable models

If you have a complex model installed that cannot be disassembled, then you can insulate such an iron door from the inside in a different way, unlike the previous ones, this method is even simpler. To do this, dry insulation in granules is used, walls and roofs are also insulated in a similar way. What is the principle of working with dry insulation? It does not need to be laid and additionally fixed, it is enough just to fill up the hollow space inside the door leaf, small granules will fill all the voids. In order to evenly distribute the material and better compact it, it is necessary to knock on the walls of the door or shake it by tapping on the floor, if this, of course, is possible.

Expanded polystyrene granules will help to solve the problem of warming a non-separable front door

As a heater for such cases, polystyrene foam granules or foam balls are most often used. Previously, sawdust was used, but their thermal insulation properties are much lower than those of modern materials.

It is worth considering one important detail: if you have a door with special blocking crossbars, which are part of the anti-burglary system, this method of increasing the thermal insulation properties should not be used.

The fact is that the insulation granules are able to clog into this system and, thus, block the movement of these parts.

External insulation

Now let's look at how to insulate an iron door from the outside. In addition to internal insulation, you can fix the insulation on the outside over the door leaf, this will not only allow you to achieve best effect, but also transform the appearance of the door. This will require a piece of leatherette, slightly larger than the door itself and several strips of small width, with their help, sealing rollers are equipped around the perimeter of the door.

With the help of glue and dermantin, a rolled-up piece of soft sealant is attached to the metal, then sheets of insulation are also attached to the canvas with glue, it can be foam rubber, polyurethane foam, isolon or mineral wool. The final stage is gluing dermantin. Its edges are tucked up so that the cuts are not visible and glued over the rollers. Then all fittings are installed in place.

Seams and gaps

To achieve maximum efficiency, it is necessary to ensure complete sealing of seams and joints. First of all, it is necessary to seal the gaps that remained after the installation of the door frame. Revealing them is quite simple: just bring your palm to the opening and run it along the entire perimeter, in places that require insulation, you will feel a draft. You can also use a burning candle, its flame will sway intensively in the area of \u200b\u200bthe areas where there are gaps.

Silicone sealant is used to seal the seams

You can insulate an iron door and a door frame with your own hands using various materials. In order to seal cracks and joints, mounting foam is most often used. After hardening, the excess is cut off with a knife, and the remaining foam is covered with plaster or platbands. If you do not close it, the material will collapse very quickly under the influence of light. Also, silicone or rubber sealant can be used instead of foam, it is much more convenient to apply, and even the smallest cracks can be repaired.

The next step is to insulate the joints of the door and the loot. The first way: rubber. To do this, you need to cut strips of small width and glue them around the perimeter of the loot. You can purchase ready-made parts, they will provide better insulation, as they will fit snugly against the door leaf. In the closed position, this insulation will ensure complete sealing of the seams.

The second way: foam rubber. The principle of operation is the same, it is also installed around the perimeter of the loot. It is not difficult to find strips of foam rubber of the required width on the building materials market, they are convenient in that one of their sides is an adhesive tape, so it is very easy to attach them. A more modern and reliable material is isolon. By appearance and the principle of fastening, these two products are almost the same.

Knowing how to insulate an iron door, you can not be afraid that winter cold knock on your house. The process of self-improvement of doors will not take much time, and the consumption of materials is relatively small, but you will be reliably protected not only from the penetration of strangers, but also from drafts and frost.

Most of the apartments are equipped with an entrance iron door - thanks to them you can not worry about security. However, the iron door has a drawback - it lets the cold through. After all, iron is an excellent conductor, so in winter the apartment loses a lot of heat through them. To avoid this, you should take care of how to insulate the iron door.

Usually, manufacturers of iron doors do not insulate them, so each owner needs to carry out insulation work on their own.

Material selection

There is a wide choice of materials on the construction market, but fibrous and polymeric heaters remain the most affordable.

However, it should be remembered that mineral wool can get wet and lose its properties, so when choosing such raw materials, you should immediately think about moisture insulation.

Iron door installers advise using ordinary polystyrene foam - it is often used for facade cladding multi-storey buildings, so it can be purchased in slabs of various sizes and thicknesses.

As a heater, foam plastic has long been used in construction and is highly appreciated: it is easy to install, designed for long-term operation, and does not deform load-bearing structures.

Styrofoam boards are easy to cut to fit perfectly in the right space, which is exactly what is important in the case of a door. The same property allows you to make the insulation layer as aesthetically pleasing as possible. You should buy foam of the maximum thickness that can fit inside the iron door.

Start

To insulate the entrance part, the metal door will have to be removed from the hinges and disassembled before starting work. It is necessary to prepare all the places of contact and slopes next to the opening - they are also responsible for thermal conductivity. For work, you will not need a lot of insulation material - a couple of sheets will be enough.

Procedures

Let's describe the sequence of work on your own:

the door is removed from its hinges, dismantled;
the lock, peephole, number is removed;
pieces of foam are cut out and placed inside the door so that there are no empty seats;
all empty spaces are filled with mounting foam;
locks are screwed;
start tiling work.

Instead of foam, granular filler, rubber seal, self-adhesive foam rubber can be used. Internal insulation of the entrance metal door can be combined with leatherette outer skin. The procedure is carried out as follows:

door leaf coated on both sides thin insulation in the form of a heat-reflecting material. It is glued to the door with a special compound;
for a decorative effect, the surface with insulation is upholstered with a cloth - leather, leatherette or other durable material.

The problem is condensation.

Moisture can settle on the metal door and on the entrance part in the form of slopes, which will lead to rust on iron structures - therefore, simply insulating will not be enough.

What is the cause of moisture? The cold air of the landing and the warm air of the room meet in the area of the door space. Condensation forms and settles on surfaces.
To prevent such a problem, all joints should be blocked rubber seal. You can even use a special material for waterproofing - liquid rubber, which is used for pipelines, bathtubs and shower rooms.

And the slopes?

All slopes next to the box also need to be insulated, especially indoor slopes. Usually these building structures are plastered, puttied or sheathed with drywall. In these cases, an aesthetically pleasing result can be achieved, but the problem is that the materials described will not become a barrier to the penetration of cold.

Plywood, wood and MDF, as well as chipboard boards, have great thermal insulation characteristics. It is quite possible to fix insulation boards in the form of isover or mineral wool under the facing panel. When sheathing internal slopes with insulation and facing panels, heat loss in the door area will be minimal.

About materials in general

When choosing a material for sheathing an iron door leaf, it is necessary to take into account not only the practicality and attractiveness of the material, but also the insulating properties. For example, plastic sheathing: the material is inexpensive, looks nice, lasts a long time, but conducts cold. Therefore, the entire load on thermal protection will fall on the foam plates.

Other cladding materials are more expensive, but they can prevent the penetration of cold into the room. Wood, plywood, chipboard and MDF have the characteristics of low thermal conductivity. This figure will increase if the facing layer is made thicker.

Vestibule of two doors

The best option for insulation is to install a second door at the entrance and the heat will remain in the room. It does not matter what materials the second door will be made of: it can be made of wood, metal, MDF or plastic.

By constructing a vestibule of two doors at the entrance to the room, it is possible to achieve the same low thermal conductivity as is inherent in the walls of the house insulated from the outside. The problem of condensation will also be solved. The disadvantage of this insulation method is the loss of living space and the financial costs of acquiring an additional door.

The metal entrance door, the most reliable and durable design, has one significant drawback - a high level of thermal conductivity. This means that it quickly cools down at sub-zero temperatures, allows external cold to pass through and poorly retains internal heat. From the interaction of internal and external temperatures, condensation appears on the surface. As you know, moisture is one of the causes of premature corrosion that can destroy a metal structure. The only way to eliminate this drawback is to reduce thermal conductivity due to insulation. How to insulate a metal front door, and what materials better use for this purpose, we will consider in detail in this article.

The choice of thermal insulation material will depend on the location of the door itself (inside the entrance or outside the house). You can consider the cheapest options, such as corrugated cardboard or sawdust. But they are not suitable for outdoor structures: when moisture gets in, their heat-saving properties are greatly reduced. If you are looking for the most durable way to insulate an entrance metal door, you need to consider the properties of heat-insulating materials:

Foam rubber is recommended for insulating structures located in a warm entrance or vestibule, since unstable weather conditions lead to the rapid destruction of the insulation.
Mineral wool is prone to increased water absorption. When installed in doors leading to the street, it needs an additional insulating layer that will protect against moisture. Non-sheet material with internal insulation tends to move to the lower part of the structure over time, which increases the thermal conductivity of the upper section of the door.
Polyurethane foam is resistant to all natural phenomena: humidity, cold, heat. It has a long service life, is not prone to deformation. It is used as an internal insulation, but its installation requires certain skills.
Izolon - roll material. It has an adhesive layer, which facilitates the installation process. Can be used for internal and external insulation.
Polyfoam is resistant to moisture and deformation. A significant drawback of the material is susceptibility to combustion.
Polystyrene in its structure resembles polystyrene, however, due to the special composition, this material has noticeably reduced combustibility properties and improved durability. Insulation of a metal door with polystyrene can be performed both from the inside and outside of the structure.

Internal insulation

How to insulate an iron front door from the inside? First you need to familiarize yourself with its design. In a standard collapsible design, the insulation layer will be located between the steel sheet and the decorative panel. The internal insulation of an entrance metal door with a non-separable structure is a more complex process.

Insulation of collapsible entrance metal doors is performed in the following order:

Dismantle from the door leaf all the fittings that may interfere with the process of disassembling the structure.
The structure must be disassembled, for this, the decorative panel is removed in order to gain access to the internal cavity.
Remove the old insulation, if any.
All cavities are filled with prepared heat-insulating material. Sheet insulation elements must be cut with a small margin so that they tightly fill all the voids.
For a firm fit, the layers of insulation are put on glue or liquid nails.
If an unfilled space is found at the final stage of work, it is filled with mounting foam.
Next, you need to make sure that there is free space left to install the lock and the peephole, after which decorative panel returns to its place.

How to insulate an iron door from the inside if it is not designed to be disassembled? In order not to violate its integrity, it would be better to use an external version of the insulation. For internal filling of the cavity of a steel door, granular heat-insulating materials are suitable: foam balls or expanded polystyrene. A card is cut off at the end of the door, after which the insulation is poured into the internal cavity. In order for it to be evenly distributed, shake the structure from time to time. This method of insulation is categorically not suitable for a door with blocking anti-burglary crossbars: loose filler can get inside the system and block parts.

External insulation

External insulation of an iron door is carried out directly on the surface of the sash that goes inside the room. The materials used are the same as for the interior upholstery. Thermal insulation of the door with your own hands can be done in two ways.

Thermal insulation with the use of a rack frame. After all the fittings are dismantled from the door, a rack frame is attached to the canvas with self-tapping screws (or a metal profile is welded). Inside the frame, the entire cavity is tightly laid out with a heat-insulating material, which is fixed with glue or liquid nails. On top of this entire structure, a sheet of fiberboard is attached with self-tapping screws, pre-cut to the size of the door.
Upholstery with heat-insulating material is a good, less complicated way to insulate a metal door with your own hands. For work, you will need insulation, upholstery, glue. The door is taken off its hinges. A layer of glue is applied to the cleaned surface, after which the insulation is laid. The heat-insulating layer is masked with an upholstery fabric, which is tightly fixed with glue around the perimeter of the sash. To keep the upholstery firmly in the future, the gluing points are pressed with a load until it dries.

Instructions for thermal insulation of doors using wooden mortgages

Installation of the rack frame Foaming the cracks between the metal and the beam Filling the joints between the insulation with foam

Insulating an iron door with your own hands using wooden mortgages is a feasible task. Mortgages are bars that are necessary in order to hide the internal filling of the door. They are located along the perimeter of the sash and along its central part. In the place where the lock will be mounted, it is necessary to install additional bars. The method of fixation is chosen depending on the material of construction. If the frame is made of a corner, it is necessary to pre-drill holes. AT profile pipe self-tapping screws for metal can be screwed in without drilling. The size of the screws must exceed the width of the bar by 5 mm.

The next stage of work is to fill all the gaps between the metal and the installed timber with mounting foam, after which you can lay the insulation of your choice. The main condition for high-quality insulation is that the thickness of the material is equal to the depth of the door cavity. So that the insulation does not budge and does not fall out during installation outer skin, it should be put on glue.

The seams between the individual layers of insulation must be filled with mounting foam, after which the door is left for several hours. After the foam has completely dried, it is necessary to cut off its excess and cover the door over the insulation with a pre-prepared panel or slats.

Insulation of seams and joints

When the insulation of metal doors is done according to all the rules, but the cold still seeps through the cracks, it is necessary to strengthen the tightness of the seams and joints. The gap between the box and the wall is filled with mounting foam. After hardening, all the excess that comes out is cut off flush with the door frame. To the mounting foam long term retained the properties of tightness, a layer of plaster is necessarily applied on top of it or covered with platbands: this material is very sensitive to light, and quickly collapses. In addition to mounting foam, rubber or silicone sealant can be used to fill the joints.

Another "gate" for the cold is the junction of the door leaf with the frame. To ensure tightness, insulation is made around the perimeter of the box with a rubber, foam or isolon sealant. Parts can be cut to fit the door, or you can use ready-made material, which can always be found in hardware stores. The insulation is a tape that has an adhesive layer on one side, so it is possible to insulate an entrance metal door with a sealant in a few minutes, but do not forget that the sealant, no matter how high-quality it is, wears out over time. It is necessary to check its condition from time to time and replace it as necessary.

A metal door is an excellent protection against breaking and uninvited guests, but it does not protect well from the cold. The metal has excellent thermal conductivity, so the temperature on the inside of the door will be almost the same as on the outside. This can lead to condensation, from which metal structural elements will begin to collapse over time. In addition, a gap of 5-8 mm must be left between the metal door and the frame, and cold air enters the apartment through it, which also causes a deterioration in the microclimate in your home.

All these troubles can be avoided if you insulate the front iron door. Insulation can be performed using various materials, and the most popular of them are fiber or foam boards. The technology of their application for the insulation of an iron door is generally similar, the thermal characteristics are also similar, they differ in mechanical properties and fire safety.

Fibrous materials: mineral and stone wool

Fibrous insulation includes mineral and stone wool, made in the form of solid slabs or rolled materials. They have excellent thermal insulation properties, do not support combustion, are a good sound insulator, are easily attached and fit into the size of the door frame. At the same time, it has a significant drawback: when wet, fibrous materials lose volume, after which their heat-insulating properties sharply decrease. Therefore, in the case when the front door separates a cold room and a warm apartment, and condensation may form on the metal surface, the use of mineral wool is not advisable. Its use is recommended in heated entrances of apartment buildings.

Styrofoam and polystyrene

Styrofoam - foamed polymer material whose bubbles are filled with air. Polystyrene has a similar structure, but it is filled not with air, but with nitrogen, due to which it is much less susceptible to destruction and combustion, while its price is somewhat higher. Both materials are produced in the form of plates of various thicknesses, so you can choose the thickness of the insulation layer that will allow you to insulate the iron door and achieve the desired thermal insulation properties. Styrofoam and polystyrene are not afraid of moisture, so you can use them in any room.

Required materials and tools

In addition to the insulation selected in accordance with your conditions, you will need:

A sheet of laminated chipboard or plywood according to the size of the door, taking into account the frame for making the inner lining;
A bar of dry wood for making an internal frame to which the internal
Mounting foam;
Plaster or putty;
Polymer sealant in the form of a tape;
Contact universal glue for mounting insulation on a metal surface;
Electric jigsaw and screwdriver;
Sharp knife for cutting insulation;
Putty knife.

door frame insulation

The frame of a metal door is usually made of a corner fixed to the walls with metal pins. There are often gaps between the box and the wall, which, during installation, are hastily sealed with mounting foam. The mounting foam has one drawback - unprotected from light radiation, it very soon loses its properties and collapses. This can be identified by yellow or brown old foam. If your door frame is insulated this way, you need to remove the old foam and re-insulate.

To do this, the wall adjacent to the door frame is cleaned of the remnants of the old insulation, the plaster is embroidered to a solid base and dust residues are removed.
The surface is moistened with water, after which holes and cracks more than 2 cm deep are foamed with mounting foam.
After the foam expands and hardens, the excess is carefully cut off with a sharp knife.

The box is finished with a layer of plaster or putty, which will play a protective and decorative role. Foamed like this door frame stop letting cold air in.

door insulation

Before starting work on the insulation of the door, it is necessary to remove the overhead elements: the peephole, the handle, as well as the lining of the lock.

After the exposure required for the glue to dry, the insulation is checked for gaps. Large gaps are foamed with mounting foam, followed by trimming flush with the insulation, gaps less than 0.5 mm can be filled with thin strips of foam using the same glue.

Door lining and door gap seal

The inner lining plays a triple role: it protects the insulation from damage, is an additional noise and heat insulation, and also performs a decorative function. Therefore, special requirements are imposed on the interior decoration: it must not only be durable and moisture resistant, but also look aesthetically pleasing. Usually interior decoration made of laminated chipboard or MDF, you can also make it from moisture-resistant plywood, pasted over with artificial leather.

The iron door, insulated according to all the rules, perfectly retains heat inside the house and is a reliable protection against noise. The service life of the door is also increased, as the insulation provides reliable protection. metal structures from condensate.