home Heaters

What sewer is better to do in a private house. Proper wiring of sewer pipes in a private house. Basic rules for organizing internal sewage

Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house is, of course, the pride of the owner. Although it is quite possible to order a turnkey project, and then the installation will be carried out correctly by high-level specialists. Indeed, in addition to sewerage, a water supply system is required, laying which is not an easy task.

1 Why do I need sewerage for a private house
- 1.1 Factors influencing the choice of the type of sewerage of a private house
2 Views
- 2.1 Water supply
- 2.2 Choosing a location for the sewer system

Why do you need sewerage for a private house

Few of those who live in an apartment have a question about the need for a sewerage or water supply system. Their installation was done a long time ago, this is a natural thing for an apartment.

But not everyone private house boasts the same water supply and sewerage system as in high-rise city apartments. Therefore, laying sewers in a private house is often done independently.

Why is she needed? Everything is simple. Sewerage and water supply system gives comfort, coziness, provides a person with the benefits of civilization.

If you are laying these systems in a private house construction project, then there should be no problems. It is much more difficult if the sewerage and water supply scheme is installed in an already built house.

The project of the future sewerage can be carried out according to two schemes:

Inside the building there is a shower and a sink, and the toilet is taken out to the street. Such a project is quite simple, since it does without complex laying of pipelines and treatment facilities. The sewer pipe is removed from the house, a simple sewage treatment system is created on the site, that is, a sewer pit;
Sink, shower and toilet inside. Here, the wastewater treatment system is required more complicated so as not to pollute your own site and the water near it with waste. You will definitely need a septic tank.

Factors influencing the choice of the type of sewerage of a private house

Pay attention to several important factors that will allow you to correctly select a sewer system for a private house, use a suitable project to create water supply and sewage disposal:

The house serves for temporary or permanent residence;
The number of people who regularly live in the house;
Daily water consumption rate, taking into account all consumers (faucets, showers, toilets, washing machine, Dishwasher etc.);
The level of groundwater;
Plot size, which determines the available space for the treatment system;
Soil type, its structure;
Climatic features;
SNIP requirements.

Kinds

In general, all sewage systems can be divided into only two types:

Cumulative;
Wastewater treatment systems.

But it would be right to consider a more detailed classification, since the difference between the same type of sewerage and water supply systems can be significant.

Cesspools without a bottom. Such sewerage of a private house is relevant only if it is visited 5-6 days a month, without spending a large number of water. The groundwater level should be about a meter below the pit, otherwise water pollution cannot be avoided. Not popular today.
Accumulative sealed containers. Option to solve the problems of high groundwater levels. The soil is protected from pollution. But there is a drawback - you will often have to call a pumping machine. And for this, a place is calculated correctly so that the car can easily drive up and pump out waste.
Single chamber septic tanks. The easiest option for soil cleansing, which is not much different from a cesspool. If people constantly live in the house and actively use water, it is not recommended to choose such a project. This is a temporary residence system where the water table is low.
Double chamber septic tanks. Such a project is allowed for implementation only if the depth of groundwater allows even during a flood to be 1 meter lower than the bottom of the second tank. Approximately every 5 years, crushed stone and sand used for installation must be changed.
Septic tank equipped with a filtration field. This system includes biological and soil treatment at the same time. The container is divided into two sections. It is allowed to install such a sewage system when groundwater is at least 2.5-3 meters. Requires a fairly large free area, is located at least 30 meters from the nearest water sources and neighboring buildings.
Septic tanks with biofilters. Almost the best scheme for frequent houses with people permanently living in it. Special microorganisms are added by simply pouring them into the toilet bowl. There are no special restrictions, but an electrical connection is required.
Systems with forced air supply. The so-called aerotanks, which are expensive, but largely justify the investment. They have no installation restrictions, but require permanent residence of people and the presence of a source of electricity. The minimum price of the system is about 4 thousand dollars.

Water supply

In many ways, it is possible to implement a particular sewage project based on the water supply system. If there are problems with it, it will be difficult to create an effective drainage of wastewater.

Many prefer the use of concrete rings to create wells, wells. The installation of concrete rings is carried out by specialists using the appropriate equipment and machinery.

First, develop a water supply project, which will allow you to decide what kind of sewerage will be on your site.

The laying of concrete rings, the depth of which depends on the occurrence of groundwater, is trusted on a turnkey basis. It is turnkey work that is the most profitable and rational. It is unlikely that it will be possible to organize a well on your own.

In some situations, you can avoid the use of concrete rings - a private house is connected centralized system water supply. Today this is not uncommon. But it is important to note that your own well has its advantages:

This is your individual water source;
Ordering a turnkey project for drilling a well and laying concrete rings is not as expensive as it seems at first glance;
The quality of water from a well is much higher than that supplied through contaminated pipes of a centralized system;
The task of concrete rings is not only to give and hold the shape of the well, but also to keep the water clean;
Connecting the pump to the well is not difficult. Through it, water will flow into your home, ensure the operation of all plumbing and sewerage.

Choosing a place for the sewer system

We figured out that organizing a turnkey well and installing concrete rings is a profitable solution for a private house and creating water supply.

Since sewerage and plumbing are two inextricably linked systems, it is extremely important to choose the right place for the location of the first.

By choosing the right site, you will ensure that the sewer works more efficiently and safely. You need to focus not only on SNIP, but also some other nuances:

Land slope. The drain will go faster and not create blockages if you make a slope. It is also reasonable to use the unevenness of the site itself for this.
Despite the variety of systems, each sewage scheme provides for the periodic pumping of waste. Some require ongoing effluent recovery activities. Therefore, consider the possibility for a convenient entrance of the sewer so that it does not harm the site, but at the same time calmly drives up to the hatch.
Locate the system away from residential buildings, buildings, fences, and water supplies. The protection of concrete rings will definitely not be enough to prevent waste seeping through the soil from getting there.

Who knows, maybe you can do without rings, organize simple system sewers and spend a minimum of effort and money. Some projects are necessarily completed on a turnkey basis, since it is simply impossible to implement with your own hands.

If you are going to call the masters, make sure that these are professionals in their field. Sophisticated sewer equipment needs experienced hands during installation, and also requires users to adhere to certain operating rules. Only in this way the sewerage and water supply system will work for a long time and efficiently.

Professionally designed and implemented living conditions in a private house are the basis for the level of comfort in living in it. The main role in this is played by the sewerage system.

Particularly stringent requirements are placed on an autonomous system for private homes.

When designing it, it is imperative to adhere to sanitary standards, take into account environmental requirements and comfort of use.

To do this, use an integrated approach to the sewerage device in a private house.

Projects of private houses, in most cases, are individual. The use of a general sewerage scheme without taking into account the specifics of the building can lead to disastrous consequences.

The first step in system planning is to draw up a general sewerage scheme.

Photo: general scheme outdoor sewerage

It consists of an internal and external part of the project:

For each point, you need to know how to connect it to a common drain system;

Photo: location of indoor plumbing fixtures

selection of wastewater outlet– pressure or self-drainage systems. In most cases, self-draining is used, as it is much cheaper. But at the same time, much attention is paid to their diameters;

Photo: sewer pipe slope

pipeline design. Calculated maximum load for each point and the entire system as a whole. This is necessary to calculate the diameter of the pipelines in each section of the system.

Photo: pipe scheme internal sewerage in a private house

Photo: outdoor sewerage pipe scheme in a private house

Important! It is necessary to minimize the number of pipe turns to prevent clogging of the sewer.

The location of the riser and the fan pipe in the house. Their function is to equalize the pressure in the pipes to prevent the appearance of a characteristic smell in the rooms;

Photo: location of the riser location of the fan pipe in the house

outdoor sewerage. It is important to consider the method of eliminating waste water - connecting to a central sewer or designing autonomous system cleaning;

Photo: wastewater outlet

are also taken into account environmental requirements to the state of the surrounding area.

With wells located near the house, according to the norms, it is impossible to do drain hole with natural water flow into the soil.

Each of these stages is closely related to each other.

The volume of the drain tank directly depends on the number of plumbing fixtures and the maximum flow of wastewater from them.

Device in a private house

When creating an external sewerage project, it is necessary to take into account its inseparable connection with the internal piping.

The exit of the central pipe from the house is carried out from basement. The depth of the outlet in the foundation should be below the maximum level of soil freezing (1 m).

Photo: sewer exit from the house

Drain well preparation. Its location depends on the type of storage wastewater system.

The dimensions of the pit must correspond to the selected system.

Calculation of the depth of the pipe inlet to the storage tank is carried out according to the following method: to the depth of the sewer outlet in the house, the length of the external main is summed up multiplied by a coefficient that depends on the diameter of the pipe.

For a diameter of 50 mm - 0.03; 110mm - 0.02; 160 - 0.008; 200 - 0.007 (according to SNiP 02.04.03-85).

h2=h1+l*k+g,

h2- the estimated depth of the exit point in the storage well;
h1- the depth of the exit of the sewer pipe from the house (1.4 m);
l- distance from the foundation to the storage well (10 m);
k- pipe slope coefficient (0.02);
g- the natural slope of the surface. The difference between the entry and exit points according to the level of the slope of the site (0.3 m.).

h2=1.4+10*0.02+0.3=1.9 m.

According to the dimensions obtained, a trench is dug.

Photo: trench for sewer pipes

For the convenience of leveling the pipeline, the bottom is sprinkled with a small amount of sand.

Photo: laying pipes on a sand cushion

The connection of pipes starts from the exit from the house.

Photo: the beginning of the pipe connection

With a possible probability of deep freezing of the soil, the pipes are additionally insulated with insulating material.

Photo: pipe insulation

The final stage is to fill the pipes with sand to their upper level and bury the entire line with soil.

Photo: backfilling with sand

Internal sewerage device

When designing the internal wiring of the sewerage system in the house, the following is taken into account:

location of drain points;
riser;
pipe exits.

Stages of work:

Drafting of pipelines.

Photo: drawing of laying pipes for internal sewage

Often, pipes with a diameter of 50 mm are used for laying pipes to the riser. The riser is made with a minimum pipe section of at least 100 mm.

This is necessary to properly stabilize the pressure in the system and prevent clogging at maximum load.

Laying of horizontal pipes is carried out with the same slope coefficient as for external sewage.

Photo: laying internal horizontal pipes

Photo: fan pipe for a two-story house

Often, to save space and material, the riser acts as a fan pipe.

When designing, it is necessary to provide for a uniform arrangement of revision channels to remove blockages. They are installed for each connection point of plumbing fixtures and at corner joints. Rotation angles must not exceed 45°.

Photo: revision wells for private sewage

riser (fan pipe) - at least 100 mm;
"dirty" drain points (toilet, bathroom) - 100 mm;
sink - 50 mm.

Necessary materials and tools

The normal functioning of the sewerage system for a private house largely depends on the choice of pipe material.

Photo: plastic pipes for outdoor sewage

This is necessary to prevent their deformation when the soil is displaced or other external influences.

When choosing sewer pipes you should pay attention to the following indicators:

resistance to active biological media;
convenience and reliability of connection;
smooth inner surface that does not interfere with the free movement of waste masses.

The following tools are required for the installation of plastic sewer pipes:

scoring saw for plastic. It is needed to cut the pipe to the desired length;
knife. After trimming, it is necessary to remove the burrs and make a small bevel at the end for a better connection .;
spare kits rubber seals for mounting.

Photo: tool kit

Depending on the type of connection and the angle of rotation, the following accessories can be used:

branch (elbow) - designed to turn the pipeline by 45 ° or 90 °. Their design includes sockets for connecting pipes on both sides;
transition outlet. In him connecting part there is only one side;
connecting fittings with 3 or 4 outlets. Are intended for realization of branching of pipes;
transitional couplings. They are necessary for the transition of the pipeline from one diameter to another;
inspection hatches for checking the condition and repairing pipe joints.

Overview of sewer types

Along with professional design and laying of the internal sewer pipeline, it is no less scrupulous to approach the issue of storage and disposal of wastewater.

Septic tanks

For multi-level wastewater treatment, septic tanks are used - underground structures designed for phased purification.

They are two or more containers in which gradual purification takes place, followed by the withdrawal of water into the filtration fields (septic tank without pumping) or into a storage tank.

Photo: septic tank without pumping

Solid particles settle in the first tank, which are subsequently removed using sewage trucks.

Under pressure, the liquid from the first container flows into the second.

At this stage, anaerobic (without oxygen) decomposition of biological substances occurs, as a result of which the remaining sediment is cleaned with a layer of sand or gravel.

Currently, there are factory models, for example, but you can make a similar treatment plant yourself.

Photo: Topas septic tank

An example is a sewerage device in a private house from barrels that are used as reservoirs.

Photo: septic tank from barrels

In doing so, the following limitations should be taken into account:

wall thickness should not be less than 7 mm;
the total volume of barrels should be at least 3 times the daily norm for draining water for the house;
resistance to aggressive environments.

In addition to ready-made elements, it is also popular.

Photo: septic tank from the rings

Previously, a pit of estimated depth is prepared at the installation site, the bottom of which is poured with concrete mortar.

Photo: concrete bottom of a septic tank from rings

For the 2nd and 3rd tanks, it is not necessary to make a concrete cushion. The diameter of the pit should be 20-25 cm larger than the dimensions of the reinforced concrete rings.

Photo: the pit is larger than the diameter of the rings

After installation, the joints of the structures are sealed.

Photo: sealing a septic tank from rings

The connection between them is made using pipes, while a slight slope should be provided towards the next treatment tank.

Photo: connection between the rings of the septic tank

Sewer manholes are used for protection and safety.

Photo: hatches

Cesspool

With a small amount of water in the territory country house Can be used as stock storage.

Photo: cesspool

Important! According to existing requirements, the use of cesspools without a bottom is not allowed.

In practice, many neglect this. With a daily water consumption of less than 1 m³, cleaning in a pit without a bottom can occur with the help of soil.

But even in this case, there is a risk of contamination with harmful substances.

A cesspool with a bottom is a single-chamber septic tank, the design of which was discussed above.

A few facts against the use of cesspools:

the impossibility of filtering large volumes;
operation of a sealed structure provides for periodic pumping;
you need a place for a sewage truck, coupled with additional costs;
the possibility of an unpleasant odor.

For a house with permanent residence, the use of a cesspool is strongly discouraged.

Storm sewer

Storm sewer is designed to collect and drain rain and melt water. Its installation is relevant for areas with high rainfall rates in combination with a shallow depth of groundwater.

Photo: storm sewer

Technically, rainwater is directed to the point of discharge with the help of gutters and pipe systems - outside the territory of the site or into a storage tank.

Often, sewer tanks are used as storage.

The principles of creating storm sewers are as follows:

design of drainage systems from the house with subsequent wiring on the site;
calculation of the angles of inclination of the elements to prevent stagnation of water in the system;
protection from external pollution - the use of pipes, gratings, etc.;
ensuring the protection of the foundation of the house from the possible ingress of water from storm sewers.

With a professional approach, this type of rainwater drainage will not only fully fulfill its functions, but will also give the country house a new look.

Snip regulations

The design and calculations of sewerage systems are regulated by SNiPs (building codes and rules).

The following regulations are currently in use:

SNiP 02.04.01-85 internal sewerage;
SNiP 02.04.03-85 external sewerage.

The most important information from them has been given above.

It is worth noting that compliance with these standards is a mandatory factor when creating a sewerage project in a private house.

Device rules

Despite the individuality of each project to create an autonomous sewer system in a private house, there are a number of general mandatory rules.

For outdoor system:

selection of the location of the drain well. For septic tanks with storage tanks and sealed cesspools, the distance from them to the residential building and to the water intake point is regulated. From the house to the well - at least 5 m, from the well to the water intake point - at least 20 m. With the option of connecting the central water supply, the distance can be reduced to 10 m;
the material of the outer pipes must be resistant to external mechanical influences - soil pressure. When the formations are displaced, an uneven distribution of pressure on the surface of the pipe may occur. To avoid this, a metallized corrugated pipe is used;
it is necessary to calculate the exact value of the angle of inclination of the pipe. In practice, 20-25% is added to the calculated parameters for each value of the pipe diameter. If the slope is insufficient, the drain fluid will remain in the pipe, which will lead to blockage;
the depth of the pipeline should be below the freezing point by 0.3-.05 m. Otherwise, additional pipe insulation will be required, which still cannot guarantee the absence of damage due to temperature effects;
Piping angles should be avoided when designing piping. They are a natural barrier to solid elements. When mounting, it is necessary to provide for mounting inspection hatch every 15-20 cm.

Is it worth it to buy plastic sewer wells to give, about this in the article:.

You have appeared at the dacha bad smell from a drain hole? Don't despair, live bacteria for cesspools will help solve the problem. .

How to clean a sewer pipe with a cable.

For internal system:

the riser must be strictly vertical and not have turning elements;
the section size of the riser for a one-story house with 1 bathroom can be from 50 to 110 mm, but at the same time, its diameter should not be less than the maximum diameter of the pipe connected to it. Often this is a pipe from the toilet (110 mm.);
the connection of the toilet pipe to the riser must be straight, without intermediate connections, and its length is at least 1 m. For the entire line on the floor, the toilet connection point must be at the lowest level to prevent sewage from entering other plumbing fixtures;
the planned diameter of the conducted pipes should not be less than the outlet nozzles at sanitary facilities. Ideally, they should match;
to normalize pressure on large horizontal sections of pipe laying in their end part install an aerosol valve. Its mechanism allows air only into the system;
at junctions of the pipeline and in rotary sections inspection hatches are mounted.

Sewage drainage systems are often the cornerstone in organizing comfortable living in home.

To complete this task the best way will attract specialists - narrow-profile companies.

Independent work on the organization of the sewerage system requires a lot of effort and practical skills.

Small errors at the settlement stage can result in a loss of time and money in the future.

It is unlikely that a modern person can imagine his existence without comfort and the usual benefits of existence, therefore, when arranging a frequency house or summer house, first of all, it is necessary to properly equip the water supply system, and of course the sewer system in compliance with all sanitary and hygienic standards.

The arrangement of the sewerage system allows not only to use the bathroom, but also to connect sinks, a dishwasher or a washing machine and bring life in a suburban area closer to living in a city apartment.

The installation of a sewer system is a laborious process and requires a serious approach, moreover, it is best to design a sewer at the initial stage of construction of private buildings.

Before starting work, it is necessary to carry out water supply and only then carry out the installation of the sewerage system, adhering to a strict sequence.

The main types of sewer systems

The modern sewer system is classified into three main types:

Internal, where all communications are located inside the house.
Outdoor, in which communications are located outside the house, which include cesspools, cleaning stations, cesspools, settling tanks, septic tank.
The most important step is to carry out the sewer system into the house, since all the main elements and wiring to the main highways will be located inside the building. At this stage, proper arrangement is very important, which will ensure the performance and smooth functioning of the entire system.

Materials that will be needed when arranging the sewer system

The basis of any type of sewer system is a common riser, into which wastewater flows. Everything that passes through the riser enters the laid external sewer system and merges into the sump, which is located on the site.

Necessary materials:

Pipes, the number of which must be calculated in advance.
Branches for the sewer system, the size of which must correspond to the diameter of the pipes.
Tees of the desired style, which are necessary for branching the system.
Reducers and adapters for connecting pipes of various diameters.
Audits to control the functioning of the sewer system and access to clean it in case of blockage.
Plugs for bells, which cover unused holes.
Special fasteners for fixing sewer pipes.
Sealant - plumbing silicone in pipes and a gun that is needed to apply it.

Important! For the riser, you will need a pipe of a sufficiently large diameter (from 100 mm), since this pipe diameter is used to drain waste from the toilet. Install a riser in the very corner of the bathroom or in a pre-equipped shaft.

In addition, it is important to prepare all the tools and materials necessary for the work so that everything is at hand during the work.

The drain pipe must be well fixed. It is also necessary to align future places, joints, which will include outlet pipes from sinks, toilet bowls, bathtubs.

To ensure better sealing of pipe joints and avoid leakage, the joints are lubricated with grease or silicone.

Since plastic pipes are most often used in the arrangement of the sewer system, it is necessary to ensure their reliable fixation. the more reliable the fastening, the less likely the deformation of the sewer pipes, since the mass of filled pipes is much greater than empty ones.

Self-assembly of the sewer system

Do-it-yourself sewerage is quite simple, even without certain skills and experience. The main thing is to follow the sequence of work, purchase high-quality materials, and prepare the tool you need for the job.

Important! If you are still unsure of your abilities, you can always invite professional craftsmen who will carry out all works on installation of the sewerage quickly and qualitatively. However, in the process of their work, you can monitor the progress of the work, gaining experience and at the same time controlling the quality.

It is very important that the drain pipes coming from the toilet or bathtub exit at an angle to prevent clogging and ensure a normal level of system performance. The angle of inclination per meter should be between 2 and 4 degrees.

You should not purchase corrugated pipes for arranging the sewerage system - give preference better pipes with an internal nasty surface. It is recommended to fix the pipes immediately after connection and docking. To do this, it is necessary to build a box or gutter of drywall or other waterproof material. This design will achieve reliable fixation and get a rigid system that will be resistant to mechanical damage and water displacement.

Important! When installing the transition from a vertical to a horizontal drain, it is advisable to install a connecting element with an angle of 90 degrees in this place. This will help to significantly reduce the load on the nodes and pipes from pressure when draining water.

To install the transition node, you need to dig a deep hole of the appropriate diameter. This is also convenient because, if necessary, you can install an inspection sleeve, which will allow you to clean the system in case of clogging.

At the next stage, the drain line is taken out of the house. in the foundation, a hole of the required size is made and a corner is cut out at an angle of 15 degrees, and then a constant level of inclination of the drain pipe is set, inclusive, until it enters the drain pit, no more than 2-3 degrees.

Do not make a smaller slope or, on the contrary, tilt the pipe too much. A small slope will slow down the flow of drains, and with a strong slope, the sewage will pass too quickly through the sewer pipes, leaving solid fragments on the walls, which will soon lead to clogging and disruption of the sewer system.

Important! If the location is too close, the foundation may be damaged over time, and too large a distance can cause stagnation in the system, especially if it has many joints and turns.

At the final stage, it is necessary to dig a trench for laying the pipe, the depth of which depends on the climatic and weather conditions in your area. If winters are harsh and cold, the trench must be deep enough to prevent freezing and damage to the integrity of the pipes. For greater safety, you can insulate the pipes with insulation before the final backfilling of the soil.

It is equally important to install several small pipes along the entire length of the sewer pipes. manholes, which will allow an audit of the sewer system in case of congestion. Immediately before laying the sewer pipes, it is recommended to concrete the trench. The bottom of the trench should be as dewy as possible without elevation changes.

Without a working sewer system, a country cottage instantly turns from a comfortable dwelling into a slum shack. But in order for the drain in the sink and toilet to function correctly and without breakdowns, the sewer wiring in a private house must be done in strict compliance with the norms of the relevant SNiPs. It is important from the very beginning to correctly assemble the riser and select the slope of the pipes to it from plumbing fixtures. The choice of material for the tubular products themselves and fittings for them is also important.

Requirements

It is customary to work out the sewerage distribution scheme in a cottage at the design stage of a residential building. It is better to determine in advance the location of all plumbing and pipes in the house. Do-it-yourself installation of sewage pipelines with your own hands or with the involvement of plumbers is carried out after the walls have been erected, but before finishing.

Sewerage layout in the house

In order for the internal sewage system to work properly and without blockages, it is necessary:

observe the proper slope of the drain pipes from the plumbing to the riser;
minimize the number of turns and bends in sewer pipelines;
correctly choose the size and material of pipe products;
provide for the possibility of removing gases from the sewerage system (fan outlet);
put siphons to form hydraulic seals;
install hatches for revision and cleaning in the right places;
make thermal insulation of the sewer pipe on the street and in the basement (if necessary).

The two main documents regulating the wiring of sewerage pipelines in a private house and the discharge of effluents into the village sewer network or septic tank are SNiPs 2.04.01-85 (SP 30.13330.2012) and 2.04.03-85 (SP 32.13330.2012). It is in them that all the nuances of designing and installing a system for discharging domestic wastewater from a cottage are described.

The principle of sewerage

Regardless of the number of storeys of a private house, the wiring diagram of the sewer system in it is built around the main vertical riser. Horizontal plumbing outlets from plumbing fixtures are already being connected to it. From below, this central pipe is connected to the outlet to the street to the septic tank or the village sewerage network. And on top of it, a fan ventilation outlet to the roof is equipped.

If the house is one-story, and from the plumbing in it there is only a toilet bowl and a sink with a bathtub, then you can refuse the riser. However, a vertical pipe for ventilation will still have to be done, otherwise all the smells from the sewer will somehow end up in the cottage. Even siphons will not save in this situation. Pressure drops during the discharge of water will cause the failure of the water seals, as a result of which the sewer amber will go from the pipes to the kitchen and bathroom.

Pipes for sewer distribution in the house

To perform self-installation of sewerage in a private house, you will need:

pipes with a diameter of 50 (for bends) and 110 mm (for a riser);
tees and elbows;
plugs;
revision hatches;
siphons for sinks, bathtubs and shower cabins;
fasteners (clamps).

It is recommended to take plastic pipes for sewerage in a cottage made of PVC or polypropylene. The former are cheaper, while the latter are more resistant to impact. household chemicals and high temperature. Also for a country house, you can take cast-iron counterparts. They are more durable, but working with them is more difficult. If the plastic is cut with an ordinary hacksaw, then for cast iron you will need a grinder or gas autogen. Plus, a sewer pump will be needed for the pressure system (installation with a small storage tank in the basement).

Scheme of natural sewerage of a private house

Wiring diagrams

The layout of sewer pipes in a private house is carried out according to one of two schemes:

Natural (by gravity).
Forced, pressure (with a pump).

It is best and most correct to give preference to the first, with the gravity flow of effluents. The forced wiring option should only be used as a last resort, when it is impossible to ensure the natural drainage of wastewater from the building. Such a system is volatile, in the event of a power outage, the sewage system will stop working. Internal storage pumping unit a certain amount of impurities can take in, but it is limited.

Forced sewage scheme

Mounting order

The sewerage system in the house is going from the bottom up. First, an outlet is made in the basement (output through the foundation of the cottage) to connect the street and intra-house parts of the drainage system. Then a riser rises up with the installation of a tee or cross on each floor above the floor to connect horizontal outlets.

Features of the installation of pipe connections of the sewerage of a private house

The opening in the foundation is made with a size of 400x400 mm or more. From the pipe to the edge of this hole, there should be a free space of about 150 mm. It is necessary so that when the cottage sinks and the soil swells in winter, the outlet is not deformed or destroyed. The remaining gap is sealed with clay and tow.

Installation of risers

Installation of the riser consists in a consistent installation individual parts Each other. Their connection and fixation with each other is carried out due to the presence of a socket at the end of these elements. From the floor on the first floor, a tee is first placed on the branches. Then comes a pipe about a meter high. Then the revision is installed. And then another pipe is mounted for the passage of the ceiling to the next floor. There again a tee and everything repeats.

Drainage installation

From the floor level to the hatch, the revision should be about 1–1.5 m. If the pipeline is made of plastic products, then the riser must be attached to the wall using clamps on dowels. Moreover, a clearance of 15–20 cm should remain from the wall surface to the pipe. And the clamps should be placed under the sockets and with a distance from each other in height of 4–5 meters.

The passage through the ceiling and the space above it after the installation of the pipe are poured cement mortar 2–3 cm thick from the pipe and 8–10 cm above the floor. This concrete edging is done to protect the riser, provide sound insulation and prevent the spread of fire in case of fire.

Installing a drain pipe with adapters

Installation of taps

Branches are mounted under a slope from plumbing of 25–35 mm per linear meter. If the slope is made smaller, then the sewage will stagnate in the sewer pipeline. And with less, the drains will flow too quickly, as a result of which heavy particles and fat will begin to settle inside, gradually forming a blockage.

The length of the horizontal line should not exceed 10 m. If it is laid in an open way, then the pipeline can still be increased by a couple of meters. However, for sewer pipes closed with a coupler, this is unacceptable. And in any case, for every 8 m of the horizontal section, it is necessary to provide an audit for cleaning. The bend is fixed under a slope with clamps to the wall in increments of 1–1.5 m. If this distance is increased, the plastic line will sag.

Features of the sewer installation scheme in the house

Features of the arrangement of sewage in a one- and two-story house

In a one-story cottage, sewer wiring is usually carried out with one riser in the bathroom and two horizontal outlets to the bathroom and kitchen. But if the house is large and has two or three floors, then the sewer system will be more complex. Here it is often necessary to install a couple of separate risers. But in general, the principles of organizing the collection of domestic wastewater from plumbing are the same - the slope of the pipes and the supply of wastewater to one point to the outlet from the building.

Sewerage scheme in a one-story house

To keep the sewers working properly long years, during its design and installation, you should:

connect bends with a riser not with straight crosses, but with elements with nozzles at an angle of 30–40 degrees;
to fix branch lines under a slope, use clamps with a step of no more than 1.5 meters;
places of passage of vertical risers through the ceilings must be sealed with cement mortar;
clean up burrs on ends plastic pipes after cutting them with a hacksaw into parts of the desired length;
use siphons to form hydraulic seals;
divert the fan outlet away from windows and balconies.

According to SNiPs in a private house, the wiring of sewer pipes can be carried out in open and hidden (in mines or ducts made of non-combustible materials) methods. The first option allows you to constantly monitor the condition of pipelines and, if necessary, simplifies their repair, and the second is more aesthetic.

It is difficult for us to live without amenities, even being in a private house. We strive to provide maximum convenience by creating for your family optimal level life. For this, it is very important to think over the issue of construction in advance.

When building a sewer with your own hands in a private country cottage, you can save money, but you need to carry out these works in accordance with construction and installation requirements.

Sewerage in the house involves the arrangement of external and internal sewerage.

Internal is piping, installation of a fan pipe and a riser.

The outer one includes a set of pipes running from the house to a septic tank or a deep cleaning station.

Scheme of internal sewerage

You need to choose a scheme based on the layout of each house. Ideally, when all plumbing equipment is tied to one collector, through which water will flow.

AT big house, with several bathrooms, it is more correct to prefer such a scheme in which there will be at least two cesspools or a septic tank. And in a two-story house, risers must be installed.

How to draw up a sewerage scheme for a private house:

make a house plan;
determine the location of the risers;
mark the locations of plumbing fixtures and determine how to connect them;
depict the pipes going from the fittings and the riser to the plumbing, and all the elements of the connection;
do this for each floor;
determine the dimensions of the fan pipe and riser;
sum the length of all inner pipes;
at the final stage, draw up an external sewerage scheme.

How to choose sewer pipes

For external and internal sewage, different ones are used.

For laying pipes inside, PVC and gray color. For sunbeds and risers, pipes with a diameter of 110 mm are used, and for drains - 40 and 50 mm. Turns are made with two plastic knees bent at right angles.

Often, pipes for external sewerage have Orange color, diameter 110 mm and the required stiffness. Two-layer corrugated pipes can also be used.

Pipe properties

Cast iron:

durable and strong, designed for heavy loads.
expensive, heavy and brittle, corrosion of the interior can contribute to blockages.

Polypropylene:

light and flexible, well withstand high water temperatures.
there are no shortcomings.

PVC:

inexpensive and lightweight, used for outdoor sewage.
Fragile, do not tolerate high water temperatures well.

Pipe laying

The most serious process in the construction of sewerage in the house is the wiring and laying of pipes. At the end of the work, check the tightness of the system, and only then, proceed to its operation.

Pipe connection

Today, many types of revisions, tees, elbows and plastic pipes are sold that are easy to connect. Connection points can be processed. And in places where the pipe passes through the foundation, it is recommended to install a sleeve.

It is also important to remember about the slope of the pipes, which depends on its diameter, and is 2 - 3 cm per 1 m.

Sewer outlet

In order not to encounter a discrepancy between the internal and external sewers, start the installation of the sewer from the outlet,

It is mounted through the foundation deeper than the frost level. When setting the outlet higher, it will be necessary to insulate the pipe.

If you didn't think about it at the time, you will need to punch a hole in it, sufficient to install a drain pipe with a sleeve. A sleeve is a small piece of pipe with a diameter of 130-160 mm. It should protrude 15 cm from both sides of the foundation.

The diameter of the outlet must not be less than the diameter of the riser. A sleeve is needed to create a pipe slope.

Dilution of pipes and installation of a riser

It is ideal to place the riser in the toilet. It is mounted openly or hidden.

To connect sewer pipes with a riser, oblique tees are used, and at the joints of pipes that are different in diameter, adapters are used. At the intersection of pipes, it is necessary to install a collector having a diameter of 100-110 mm. Also install water seals that will protect you from unpleasant odors.

Installation of a special tee (revision) on each riser is required. With its help, it will be possible to clean the blockage. You can set the cleaning after each bend.

The riser is best located in the toilet of a private house

Exhaust pipe outlet

Fan pipe functions:

maintains atmospheric pressure inside the system;
increases the durability of the sewer system;
ventilates the entire sewerage system.

A fan pipe is called a continuation of the riser. This is a pipe leading to the roof. Before connecting the fan pipe and riser, it is important to install a revision. After that, the pipe is displayed at a convenient angle to the attic.

Do not combine a fan pipe with a chimney or ventilation at home. The outlet of the fan pipe must be located at a distance of 4 meters from windows and balconies. The height of the retreat from the roof should be 70 cm. It is also important to place sewer, house and chimney ventilation at different levels.

External sewerage at home

There are many ways to equip your home with sewerage, but it is very important to choose the right system that meets your needs.

It is necessary to choose an external sewage scheme taking into account the following:

temporarily or permanently you live in the house;
the number of people living;
daily water consumption per person;
ground water level;
plot size;
soil type and structure;
climate.

For more detailed information, you should read the relevant chapters of SNiP and SanPin.

All external sewage systems are divided into two types:

storage (cesspool, sealed container);
wastewater treatment structures (single-chamber septic tank, septic tank with two overflowing wells, aeration tank, septic tank with biofilter, septic tank with several chambers and a filtration field).

Cesspool without a bottom

This is very old way sewer, which is now used exclusively as a country house.

In the cesspool, walls are made of rings of concrete or bricks, and the earth remains as the bottom. In the pit, relatively pure water seeps into the ground, and organic waste settles at the bottom.

When completely filled with waste, it needs to be cleaned.

Do similar cesspool it is possible if the house is not permanently inhabited and does not consume a lot of water. At the same time, groundwater must pass at least 1 m below the bottom of the pit, otherwise it will lead to soil water pollution.

Adding microorganisms to the pit will slightly reduce the unpleasant odor and speed up the process of water purification.

Sealed storage tank

This option involves the installation of a sealed container into which water will drain. You can purchase a ready-made container made of metal or plastic, or you can make your own from concrete rings. The lid is made of metal, and the bottom is made of concrete. Important in the construction of the storage tank is its complete tightness and insulated cover.

When filling the tank, it must be cleaned using a special sewage machine. The volume of the tank and the frequency of its cleaning depends on the water consumption.

This system can be used when groundwater is high, so you secure water sources and soil. But its disadvantage is that you will need to call the sewer truck quite often.

Single chamber septic tank

This is a well, the bottom of which is sprinkled with a layer of rubble and coarse sand. Water seeping through them is purified by 50%. Along with mechanical cleaning, there are processes of biological cleaning.

It is not necessary to build such a sewer in a private house if people live in it permanently. This option can only be used when the groundwater level is low. It should be noted that gravel and sand need to be changed periodically.

With your own hands, a septic tank can be made of polypropylene, reinforced concrete rings, bricks or a bay of its walls and floor. At the same time, it is necessary to determine whether the post-treatment of wastewater will take place in the well field or in the filtration field. You also need to equip the system and carry out its hydro and thermal insulation.

Two-chamber septic tank

The most popular device in country house, economical and can be built by yourself.

It consists of two wells. The first has a sealed bottom, and the second does not, but is covered with rubble and sand, which will need to be replaced about once every five years.

The first well plays the role of a sump, and the second - a filter well. Periodically, the first well is filled with waste and to clean it you need to call a sewage truck about 2 times a year.

It is worth installing such a sewage system in the house, even if during the flood the groundwater level is below 1 m from the bottom of the second well.

Soil and biological treatment - septic tank with filtration field

This type of septic tank is made in the form of a container, divided into sections connected by pipes.

The first container is needed for settling wastewater. The clarified water goes to the second section, where organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic bacteria. After the water goes to the filtration fields.

This is a vast underground area where soil sewage treatment takes place. If the soil in your area is sandy, then this is ideal. After that, the water is sent through pipelines to a well or drainage ditch.

Sometimes it is necessary to replace sand and gravel in the filtration field.

Natural treatment station - septic tank with biofilter

With its help, you can sewer at any level of groundwater.

Such a station is a container divided into 3-4 sections.

In the first, water is settled, in the second, organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic microorganisms. In the third, water is separated, and in the fourth, organic matter is decomposed by aerobic bacteria that live only under the condition of a constant air supply. To do this, a pipe rising above the ground is installed above the chamber. In the pipe leading from the third chamber to the fourth, there is a filter with aerobic bacteria. Purified water can be used for technical purposes. From the fourth chamber there is a pipe leading to a drainage ditch, or storage tank.

For a country house with permanent residence, a septic tank with a biofilter is the best solution. The disadvantage is that with a changeable residence, the bacteria will simply die.

Artificial cleaning station - septic tank with forced air supply

This is a fast cleaning installation, in which natural processes are artificially caused. The device of sewerage with the help of an aerotank is impossible without leading to it