home materials

Cesspool with do-it-yourself pumping. Cesspool in the country - simply and quickly! What to build a drain pit with your own hands

Or the owner of a country house thinks about the need for a cesspool in the adjoining area. Expensive - you say? Not at all, and today you will see it. The cesspool installation option proposed below is extremely easy to perform and does not require you to have special construction skills or costs.

Interested? Still would! And now let's take a closer look at what you can make and install a cesspool in your country house from.
We bring to your attention a cesspool of tires.

What are its advantages?
The main thing is, of course, its low cost. No need to buy expensive Construction Materials, be it brick or concrete rings. It is enough just to find a couple of dozen tires. And even if you don't have that many tires, don't worry, you can always buy them for more than affordable price or even receive as a gift. Drive through several auto repair shops in your city and make sure these words are right. Another plus, of course, is that such a cesspool is very easy to install, which is very often a decisive argument in favor of one or another type of building materials.

However, this type of cesspool has several disadvantages.
The most important of them is a short service life. As a rule, the service life of such pits is ten to fifteen years, after which the pit deforms and collapses. Another disadvantage is the complexity of its dismantling and repair.

So, having weighed all the pros and cons, you have decided that there should be a cesspool of tires! Where to start?
First, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the general schematic structure of the pit and with the features of its installation.

After that, you should decide on the location on the site, the size and depth of your future pit. Think about how often you will visit your dacha - once every two or three weeks on weekends or coming there every other day. As a rule, ten to fifteen tires will be enough to create a hole with optimal dimensions.

The next step is to dig the hole. To do this, measure the diameter of the tire you have and measure this diameter on the ground. It should be remembered that the pit should be dug a little larger than the diameter of the tires, so that in the future there will be no difficulties with their installation in the pit.

After digging a hole the right sizes and volume, a drainage well should be made in it. To do this, it is necessary to drill a hole in the center of the pit with a drill and insert a drainage pipe with holes on the sides into the resulting hole. This is necessary so that the sewage does not stagnate in your pit, and passes through the waterproof layers of the earth. Important: the top of the drainage pipe and the side holes on its surface should be protected with a special mesh so that they are not clogged with large particles of debris and drains.

We cover the bottom of the cesspool with rubble, creating a kind of foundation with a thickness of about ten centimeters. After that, on the resulting “pillow” of rubble, we begin to lay out tires. Please note that it is recommended to cut off the inner rim of each tire to allow water and debris to flow freely. Also, this step will prevent stagnation of water inside the tire and ensure a longer operation of the cesspool.

After mounting the tires, we install an inlet pipe for drains and water. For this electric jigsaw on the side surface of one of the upper tires, we cut out a hole corresponding to the diameter of the inlet pipe, after which we insert the pipe into the resulting hole and fix it. Remember that to facilitate the flow of water through the pipe, it should be placed with a slight slope.

An important feature: tires must be laid in such a way that the last of them is above ground level. We cover the space between the tires and the walls of the dug hole with earth, not forgetting to seal the joints between the tires with sealant before that. To ventilate our cesspool at the top of the pit, we install ventilation pipe, whose height is about sixty to seventy centimeters above the ground.
Close the pit with a lid or hatch. That's all - our cesspool is ready.

Such a cesspool built with my own hands, very unpretentious in operation, will serve you for several decades, and add a lot of comfort to your life in the country.

A simple cesspool, one way or another, has to be regularly pumped out, while this activity is troublesome and costly. Many homeowners and country houses are wondering if a cesspool is possible with their own hands without pumping out or structures that do not need to be pumped out so often?

In fact, a cesspool without pumping is not a myth. For its device, it is necessary to take into account the type of soil and the volume of collected effluents. Please note that wastewater contains suspended solids and faeces. When the water from the pit goes into the ground, all these components remain on the bottom and walls of the structure.

When installing a cesspool without pumping, the type of soil is taken into account

Despite the simplicity of building a cesspool without pumping out, there are a number of problems that require a mandatory solution. The main problem concerns the possibility of effective filtration of sewage water.

In the case of sandy, loess and peat soil, high degree permeability, which is not a very favorable factor, since the runoff very quickly reaches the level of groundwater. Thus, it must be said that the degree of water filtration will be too low due to the presence of light soils. Based on this feature, there is a risk of groundwater pollution and a significant deterioration in the quality of drinking water in wells or boreholes. In order to solve such an unpleasant and important problem, it is recommended to reduce the area of \u200b\u200bthe inner side of the structure, namely the part that lets water into the ground. The best option in this case will be the concreting of the walls and some area of the bottom of the pit. If after these actions the drains are drained very slowly, then additional holes can be made in the walls. There is one more effective method improving water filtration, which consists in creating an additional layer of filtration at the bottom of the structure. In fact, this is not a difficult task, the solution of which does not require much time and effort. So, simple clay is poured at the bottom of the pit, leveled and well tamped.
If clay soil prevails on the site, then the problem of constructing a drain pit without pumping out will be another issue. As a rule, clay is able to slowly pass water, so it stagnates, and the structure quickly overflows. If the daily volume of incoming water does not exceed the norm, then it will be enough to make an additional tap. For these purposes, at the bottom of the pit, it is required to drill holes with a maximum depth. A perforated tube will be installed in them, while its top will rise 1-1.5 meters above the bottom of the structure. A special plug is put on this tube to prevent the penetration of solid fractions. Also, such a solution will prevent clogging of the tube.

If you install several perforated pipes, you will be able to expand the filtration area, and this also improves the degree of drainage.

There is another way to eliminate the problem associated with the insufficient degree of drainage of sewage. It consists in the construction of a cesspool with the possibility of overflow. As a result, two recesses will have to be made, which will be connected to each other by means of a pipe installed at a certain slope. When the first hole fills up installed pipe for overflow, then excess wastewater automatically passes into the second pit.

Multi-chamber cesspool without pumping

In this case, it is possible to expand the area of land through which sewage water will be discharged. In the process of automatic overflow of wastewater, solid fractions and feces remain in the first pit, where they settle. The second recess, after the drains go into the ground, remains almost empty.

If the wastewater contains a lot of solids and waste, then the cesspool will fill up too quickly. Also, the degree and speed of filling will depend on the volume of the structure itself and the volume of sewer water discharged.

By arranging such a pit, you can do without cleaning it for several years. If during the construction process all sanitary requirements and norms are observed, then such a structure will last about ten years. After the end of the service life, another pit is made in the neighborhood, while the first is left for the maturation of compost. After a couple of years, the old depression can be used as a source of good organic fertilizer.

Creation of a monolithic treatment plant without pumping

The cheapest way to create autonomous sewerage at the cottage or country house, where permanent residence of people is provided, is the installation of a monolithic septic tank without pumping out of concrete.

You can make a septic tank from reinforced concrete rings, they are certainly not very expensive, but not cheap either, since the delivery of finished products to the site is taken into account. As a result, it is worth saying that not every owner of his own house can afford this method of arranging a treatment plant.

If there is a need to make a reliable and efficient septic tank, you can order the delivery of bulk building materials for the construction of a monolithic structure. This option is much better than transporting fragile, large rings and plates. It should be noted right away that septic tanks made of concrete are considered simple and reliable equipment for cleaning the collection and subsequent treatment of sewage water.

In order not to have to perform in the future repair work inside the finished septic tank, during its construction it is required to follow the recommendations for the device and placement cleaning system about which many experts speak.

Monolithic two-chamber septic tank without pumping

Where does the construction of a septic tank begin without pumping?

As a rule, the construction of any underground facilities begins with the digging of a pit, and the construction of a cesspool is no exception. The volume of the recess can be calculated using several methods. Since the average family uses about one and a half cubic meters of water per day, the volume of the tank for collecting dirty sewage water should be about eight cubic meters. Of course, this indicator may be more, but for the proper organization of the water treatment system, this is enough.

When arranging a cesspool with your own hands without pumping out, you should take into account the following recommendations:

it is better to dig a pit in the form of a parallelepiped, while the length of the face should be equal to two meters. This is not at all easy to do, especially in the case of heavy soil, but it is possible to translate the most economical option into reality. For this type of work, you can do with only a shovel, spending one or two days. To make the walls and bottom of the pit as equal as possible, it is better not to rush. So the concrete solution will be evenly laid, ensuring the reliability of the entire structure;
when laying sewer pipes it is required to take into account the level of freezing of the earth. It is best to lay them below this level or make thermal insulation. This feature must be taken into account even in the process of preparatory work;
a monolithic septic tank works on the same principle as other devices, which include two concrete wells. One recess breaks out, which is simply divided into two parts, with each compartment responsible for a separate cleaning step.

Formwork construction

In order not to spend a lot of money on formwork during the construction of a concrete septic tank, it is recommended to use a sliding type formwork. Thus, it can be done not for the entire pit, but only for half, and then lower part of this formwork below. When the first section has completely hardened, the same method is used to perform work for the inter-form space where the mortar will be placed.

For the manufacture of shields, oriented strand board can be used, in other words, chipboard, which is characterized by good moisture resistance and low cost. In the process of work, you also need to acquire:

in pieces plastic pipe, which should remain after the sewer outlet from the house;
pieces of wooden beams, with the help of which the shields will acquire the necessary rigidity;
reinforcing bars.

If there are no reinforcing bars, then you can use other long cylindrical metal objects. It can be old pipes with a diameter of half an inch or something similar. Any corners or rods with bending strength will do.

If a sealed septic tank is provided, then preparatory stage the bottom of the cesspool is poured with concrete and left for a couple of days to dry.

Installation of formwork for a concrete cesspool

How to make formwork in a pit?

Formwork panels are mounted in the cesspool, which are fixed to each other by wedging an inserted wooden bar.
It is also required to prepare holes for water drainage. To do this, it is necessary to cut round holes in the formwork at intervals of about 30 centimeters. These holes should include pre-prepared pipes. They are driven into the ground to a depth of 5 cm, so they are prevented from turning out of the formwork under the action of the concrete solution.
Sewer pipesout of the house are threaded into the formwork, getting inside the pit.

Works on the construction of a monolithic septic tank

To make an effective septic tank without pumping out with your own hands, you should prepare a concrete solution. To prepare it, you need to acquire the following materials:

portland cement, total will need about 400 kg;
sand, 600 kg is enough;
good liquid plasticizer grade C-3, five liters are enough;
about 200 liters of ordinary water.

Before pouring concrete mortar into the formwork, it is necessary to install special fittings or similar replaceable elements in it. Such an action is required to enhance the strength of the final structure.

Concrete pouring of the body of the cesspool

in the first part of the pit, you need to pour the solution, this is the place where the formwork is installed. In order for the structure to acquire strength characteristics, you need to wait a few days for it to harden;
when the solution has completely hardened, you can safely dismantle the formwork and build it on the next side of the dug pit;
then, according to the same algorithm, the solution is poured again and wait a few days.

Dividing the structure into separate cleaning compartments

When the body of the treatment structure is made, it can be divided into two identical areas:

in the first compartment, solid fractions from sewage water and sediments in the form of sludge will be collected;
in the second compartment, liquid contaminants will accumulate, which will pass into the ground through the filter bottom.

Of course, everyone wants to somehow save money during the construction of a concrete septic tank, and the construction of a separating wall is no exception. If there is a need for this, then it can be made from any available materials, such as brick, stone, concrete blocks, etc.

In this case, it is important to observe the height of the holes for overflow. This height must be below 0.5 meters of the level of the inlet.

Experts recommend installing a simple tee in the overflow hole, which is often used for sewer wiring. If water comes from below, then with this arrangement of the tube, heavy particles of sewage will not be able to overcome gravitational forces. If large fractions remain in the first treatment chamber, then the overall efficiency of the facility will increase significantly.

How to block a septic tank and how to maintain it?

In order for the hardened solution to acquire the necessary strength and for the septic tank to be able to calmly withstand vertical loads from the ceiling, you need to wait about two weeks. It is not uncommon for small cracks and defects to appear in the walls of a structure, but you should not worry about this. They can be easily rubbed with a simple concrete solution, only in this solution there should be 1/3 of the cement.

After a good hardening of the structure, you can proceed to the process of overlapping the septic tank. So, the work must be carried out in a certain sequence:

to begin with, channels are installed, it is on them that the ceiling is fixed;
a shield of wooden planks with side rails. These sides will be the boundaries of the hatch opening, which is planned to be placed above the separating wall. As a result, it becomes possible to serve the two halves of the septic tank through this hatch. Also a good option for separating compartments is flat slate;
after this process, two pipes can be mounted, namely for injection and outlet;
now it is necessary to lay reinforcement in the formed horizontal formwork, which is used to ensure the necessary strength of the floor;
at the end of the above work, a concrete solution is poured.

By following all the instructions and following the instructions, you can easily make a monolithic septic tank without pumping out of reinforced concrete. This design is very convenient to use, and its construction is relatively inexpensive.

Pouring concrete over a septic tank

This method of arranging a septic tank is suitable not only for summer cottages, but also for country houses, it is only important to correctly calculate the required volume of the structure. Using the advice of specialists and craftsmen, you can independently build a reliable structure that will last for many years without fail.

What is the best septic tank?

Finally, consider which septic tank is considered the best for a particular case, given the average annual cost of cleaning one cubic meter of wastewater:

for summer version dachas, where people are only on weekends, a home-made septic tank from barrels is enough;
if people live in the country for seasons, then a small two-chamber concrete septic tank, made according to the principle of a cesspool, is quite enough;
if a middle-income family lives in a country house, then suitable option there will be a treatment plant for their concrete rings or a purchased anaerobic model;
if it is planned to service several houses at the same time, then it is advisable to install an aerobic version of the septic tank.

All purchased options must undergo strict quality control, so you can not worry about their performance and safety for the environment.

Cesspool designed to drain water, it can be equipped with your own hands without pumping. How to make a cesspool so as not to pump out - actual question, if we are talking about the cottage.

A conventional drain is a simple construction and great way waste disposal. AT general view it looks like a pit with reinforced walls and a drainage system, into which all sewage, household waste and melt water flow.

During the construction of large houses, where people constantly live throughout the year, cesspools are built using concrete rings or completely from reinforced concrete. The service life of such material is at least 50-100 years. Them positive side is the ability to withstand significant ground vibrations, as well as the ability to provide sufficient tightness.

Today, plastic containers or a plastic septic tank have become very popular. Often, a drain pit is equipped with old large-radius tires. The disadvantage of this option is that the dismantling of the structure is impossible. The pit will have to be completely filled up and look for another place. Although the estimated service life will be at least ten years.

Also, when arranging and installing a cesspool, it is worth considering how it will be cleaned. Sewer cleaning by specialists is quick and high-quality, but nevertheless it is better to take the pit to the edge of the site so that the “aromas” do not reach the living quarters, read on for more details.

The required volume will depend primarily on the intensity of use of the house. For a dacha or a country cottage, where the owners come once a week, the volume is required much less than for a residential facility, in which all year round family lives.

Special formulas can be used to calculate volumes, but the following input data can also be used:

about 170 liters of water are needed per day for one person, but this does not take into account the operation of household appliances. Thus, for a family of three, the required volume will be at least 10 cubic meters;
for all calculations, take as a basis the largest possible values;
the smallest volume of the drain pit should be at least three times the daily volume of all drained wastewater.

The question of where to locate the cesspool is the biggest difficulty, because the following factors must be taken into account:

If the site is already equipped, it is rather problematic to find a place for a pit, but it is impossible to deviate from the established norms.

For self equipment cesspool on the site, brick, concrete mortars and rings are used, as well as improvised and waste materials e.g. car tires, plastic containers.

Do-it-yourself cesspool from a barrel: what are the advantages?

The most optimal and less time-consuming option is to use plastic barrels. This method is used in houses with a small amount of wastewater. Barrels prevent contaminants from draining into the soil, ensuring reliable tightness.

The selected container is placed in a pre-dug pit, and the space around is covered with earth. It is better to choose barrels made of polymers, they last much longer and at the same time do not corrode.

If you make such a hole yourself, keep in mind that the container does not have to be completely sealed. The fact is that it will constantly happen chemical reactions, therefore, the possibility of escaping gases must be provided

A cesspool from a barrel has undoubted advantages:

simplicity and a small amount of time required for arrangement;
reliable protection against unpleasant odors;
durability of polymers;
environmental friendliness.

Do-it-yourself cesspool drainage: rules and features

Experts say that the creation of a high-quality drainage system will significantly reduce its estimated volume, and will also help ensure that the contents are not pumped out.

It is best to start earthworks no earlier than mid-summer, when dry weather has settled. You can dig a pit with a shovel, that is, with your own hands, or with the help of equipment. Note that if the soil is sandy, then it is necessary to make stops around the entire perimeter of the walls of the pit. For this purpose, for example, protective shields made of wood are suitable.

It is not advisable to dig deeper than three meters, from such a height, it is very problematic to clean up the sewage accumulated at the bottom. When the mark of the desired depth is reached, the pit is left for 2-3 days.

In order for the water from the barrel to seep into the soil as quickly as possible and in order to save money on calling a sewage truck, it is necessary to equip the drainage. To do this, do the following:

cover the bottom of the pit with a thin layer of sand;
cover with geotextile on top and free overlap of the edges on the walls of the pit;
then distribute the gravel and re-cover with a cloth;
smear textiles around the edges with bitumen.

If we are talking about creating a sewage pit that will be used for country toilet without pumping out, it is allowed to do this:

first cover the bottom with sand (30 cm);
pour crushed stone (20 cm) on top.

Thus, if you are planning to equip a local sewer, the use of plastic containers will be economical and convenient option. It will serve you for quite a long time and does not require special care rules.

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other points of water intake, and greatly simplifies the installation process. Flexible piping is also used during installation gas equipment. It differs from similar devices for water in manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

Flexible hose for plumbing is a hose of different lengths, made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer is designed in the form of a braid, which is made of the following materials:

aluminum. Such models withstand no more than +80 ° C and retain functionality for 3 years. At high humidity aluminum braid is prone to rust.
Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water supply is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
Nylon. Such a braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

Nut-nut and nut-nipple pairs are used as fasteners, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different indicators of permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue are used to connect to a pipeline with cold water, and red - with hot.

When choosing a water supply, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that excludes the release of toxic components by rubber during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connected gas stoves, speakers and other types of equipment also use flexible piping. Unlike models for water, they are yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixing, end steel or aluminum fittings are used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and accessories for its connection to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials of well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, a personal manager is assigned to each client. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without any hassle.

Drainage is a hydro-reclamation measure to remove excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the territory of the site for a long time, soil gleying occurs, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (get wet), it is urgent to take measures and drain the site.

Reasons for waterlogging the soil

There are several reasons for waterlogged soils:

clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
an aquiclude in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
high occurrence of groundwater;
technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various facilities) that impede natural drainage;
violation water balance construction of irrigation systems;
the landscape area is located in a lowland, a beam, a hollow. In this case, precipitation and water inflow from higher places play an important role.

What causes excess moisture in the soil

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs are dying. Why is this happening?

the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the content of carbon dioxide increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and nutrition in the soil;
oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
the intake of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
there is an intensive breakdown of proteins and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.

Plants can tell at what level groundwater occurs

Take a close look at the flora in your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:

top water - in this place it is best to dig a reservoir;
at a depth of up to 0.5 m - grow marigold, horsetail, varieties of sedge - blister, holly, fox, Langsdorf reed grass;
at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass,;
from 1 m to 1.5 m – favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse peas, ranks;
from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning site drainage

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

with a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow on high beds;
the depth of the water reservoir up to 1.5 m is well tolerated vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry bushes, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
if groundwater at a depth of more than 2 m, you can grow fruit trees;
optimal groundwater depth for Agriculture- from 3.5 m.

Do you need site drainage?

Record your observations at least for a while. You yourself will be able to understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along a bypass channel, and not let it flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil, and will this be enough?

Or is it worth it drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

The exact answer will be given to you by a specialist, whom we strongly recommend calling. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness in this matter.

Upon completion of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement sewer system in apartment building, production building, as well as in private households, it is required to test the system involved using the forced spill method. This task was applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved and the act of testing the internal sewerage and drain systems will be material evidence of the work on the acceptance of the object.

A visual check should be accompanied by inclusion in the act of testing internal sewerage systems and drains according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the Appendix of the D series, which complies with SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", in recent times the new updated working version according to SNiP 3.05.01-85 is applicable.

To date, there are a huge number of options and methods for installing a cesspool without pumping. Of course, in some sense this is impossible, since sooner or later it will be necessary to remove solid particles, but there are ways to build and means to delay the date of calling the sewers to long years. In our article, we will consider the question of how to make a sump without the need for regular cleaning.

To date, there are many ways and methods for arranging a full-fledged sewer system. If we consider the classification of cesspools, then there are three such types:

sealed pits;
Without the need for pumping;
Septic.

Practice shows that the most popular option today is a sump storage tank. What does this mean? This pit does not have a bottom, so there is no need to clean it with a cesspool machine. Although, it is worth saying that there is also a huge minus, since the soil is polluted.

Advantages and disadvantages of cesspools without pumping

A cesspool without pumping is the easiest option for draining wastewater. In addition, this device has a number of such advantages:

Simplicity of design, which makes it possible to build pits with your own hands;
Variability of materials for installation work;
More rare call of cesspools;
Low price and production costs.

Looking at all the advantages of this cesspool, you might think that this is an ideal system, but, like all others, it has flaws in operation. Namely, such as:

The difficulty of choosing a place for a pit in accordance with the rules and regulations;
Over time, the absorption capacity decreases;
Bad smell;
The pit is dangerous to the environment;
If biological bacteria are used, it is unacceptable for chemicals to enter the sewer.

Choosing a place for a pit without pumping

The cesspool should be located on the site of the house, which it will serve. It is worth considering that in our case it is a sump without a bottom, which has even more requirements and prohibitions. Let's get acquainted with all the rules for the location of the pit:

The distance from the pit to the water supply of the house should exceed 10 meters, and to the well or well - 20 meters. This action will protect the water supply of your home from possible overflows of sewer system effluents.
The distance between the sump and the buildings of neighbors should be more than 12 meters. If you do not comply with this regulation, then the foundation of the neighbor's house may collapse.
The segment from the fence to the pit cannot be less than one meter;
The depth of the sump is more than 3 meters.

Important! Only by following all the rules, you can protect yourself from liability before the law.

Do-it-yourself mounting materials

To create a pit with our own hands, we need a lot of tools and materials. Which ones we will now find out. So:

A ladder that is as big as a hole;
Bayonet and shovel;
Bucket and other tanks;
Trowel, construction purpose;
Pegs to mark the edges;
Building level.

The cesspool has different structure and designs. This, first of all, is influenced by what material for the base you choose. To date, most often a sump without pumping is built from the following materials:

From concrete parts;
Wood treated with resin;
Clay brick;
Reinforced concrete rings;
utility material.

Do-it-yourself construction of a cesspool

One of the questions that torments many homeowners is how to make sure that the pit does not require pumping. It occurs especially sharply when building a sump with your own hands. Before starting the installation of the structure, you need to find out the type of soil in your area and calculate the volume of effluents.

Sewerage in its waste generally always contains impurities of solid particles that are not absorbed by the earth. It is for this reason that your cesspool will need to be pumped out. This technology The septic tank is designed for natural filtration. Therefore, the type of soil is very important.

Attention! If you see that the runoff has slowed down, we recommend making several holes in the walls of the system.

We have already said that the type of soil greatly affects the functioning of the sump. It happens because of that. What do they have different density and speed of water passage. For example, if your site has clay soil, then the drains will seep through its layers for a very long time and as a result, the pit will be overflowing. In such situations, you need to install an additional outlet. The principle of operation is that when the first pit overflows, then the drains overflow through the pipe into the second.

This type of sump can be equated to a filtration well, because the pit also accumulates and cleans the liquid with the help of soil. What cannot seep through the ground must be pumped out periodically with sewage trucks. It is worth considering that the maximum depth for the sump should not exceed 3 meters. Otherwise, the hoses will not be able to reach the silt.

The dimensions and design features of the cesspool depend only on the consumption of fluid in a particular house. Based on this, the volume for the pit is calculated as follows: average consumption water by one person per day - 200 liters multiplied by the number of people living.

Pit made of concrete rings

The most optimal option for a private house or cottage is a construction of concrete rings. Its huge plus is durability, and besides, you can build it yourself. It is worth noting that the walls of the sump can be made of a different material, but they are less reliable and durable. It is for this reason that the design of the rings is the most popular.

Stages of erecting a pit from concrete rings

As with the construction of any other septic tank, it all starts with digging a foundation pit, that is, earthworks. They can be done by hand or with the help of specialized equipment. It is best to carry out this stage during the construction of the foundation of the house in order to save on the services of heavy equipment. Using a mechanized method, the structure and concrete rings are mounted by a crane. In this case, it is very important to correlate the sizes of the elements.

But if you decide to build a device with your own hands, the installation technology is different. We will talk about this now. At self installation you need to follow the following procedure:

On the selected place, we place one ring and dig the earth inside it;
We level the bottom of the first ring with the ground line, after that we begin the installation of subsequent concrete components;
The number of circles is determined by the depth of the sewer pipes;
The best material for this process are devices made of concrete elements with perforated walls;
If the perforation is not in the device, then it will have to be done independently. To do this, you need to withstand the following parameters: diameter - 5 cm, distance - 20 cm from each other in the form of a chess field.
We cover the bottom of the pit with a layer of sand and gravel of 30 cm;
We create holes at the input of the pipeline;
We put the pipe so that from concrete walls the distance was 20 cm;
After that, the check valve is installed;
Fill hole with mortar

Attention! Very often, a filtration well is installed near such a pit, which improves wastewater treatment.

Cesspool cover

To perform such an action as floors, you can use either a factory or any other concrete slab. We can buy it in the same place where the rings are sold. But it is worth noting that the cover can be made independently. To do this, you will need cement, sand, crushed stone and rebar. All actions are performed in the following sequence:

We make markings with pegs and pull the cord;
Checking the diagonals
We remove the soil around the entire perimeter to the upper ring;
We block the ring with reinforcement in two to three places;
We forgive a sheet of tin, which we cover with a film on top;
Reinforcing bars are placed at a step of 25 cm;
For all work, there is a mandatory reinforcement piping;
Installing a ventilation system
And install the finished cover design.

This method of building a cesspool without pumping dates guarantees a hundred years of life. However, remember that periodically it will be necessary to remove solid particles that linger on the bottom.