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Living in a city apartment is good because there are usually no problems with the discharge of effluents. In this regard, private houses lag behind, since central system there is no drainage system in them, and the only way to ensure comfortable living is to equip a cesspool into which waste products would be dumped.

Without a cesspool, sewage discharged to nearby areas will quickly pollute the soil and can harm not only nature, but also people.

Classification of cesspools

There are several options for the design of the cesspool, so you should first deal with them.

A simple pit is a structure without a bottom in which the liquid is absorbed by the earth. This option is the most popular, because pumping in this case is carried out quite rarely. But with increased water consumption (over 1 m³ per day), the earthen "filter" simply will not cope. Moreover, this is environmentally unsafe, especially if toilet drains are diverted into it. Of course, it can be filled up from time to time, but this will reduce the usable volume, and the characteristic sewer smell will still be present.
The sealed pit needs periodic cleaning, but it is absolutely safe for environment. The arrangement of a sealed structure is much more complicated than described above, and the costs increase, but the numerous advantages fully justify all this.
- a modern analogue of a cesspool. Its bottom is laid out with gravel, stones or brickwork, which allows mechanical water purification (read: the soil is not polluted). Moreover, the filling of the pit is rather slow.

Now let's find out how to make a cesspool.

Arrangement of a brick cesspool

Before proceeding directly to construction, determine a suitable location and calculate the required dimensions of the structure.

Stage one. Location selection

The construction of a cesspool in a suburban area is regulated by SNiP. The location of the pit, as well as the distances to certain buildings, are clearly regulated by sanitary standards. When planning, these requirements must be taken into account.

The distance between the pit and the fence should exceed 1 m.
The distance to the premises in which people are planned to live should be at least 12 m.
If it is planned to create a simple pit, that is, without a bottom, then the distance from it to the nearest well or well should exceed 30 m.

Based on these requirements, select the optimal place, and then proceed to the calculation of dimensions.

Stage two. Dimensions

There are a number of parameters that need to be taken into account when calculating the dimensions of a future structure.

First of all, the sizes depend on the type of rocks that occur in a particular area. And if the soil consists mainly of permeable rock (for example, marl), then the volume of the structure should be 40% of the waste that is produced during the month. And if these are rocks that do not pass moisture well (for example, clay), then the volume should be equal to the monthly norm + a small margin.
This also includes the number of permanent residents of the house. On average, one person produces 180 liters of wastewater per day. And if the family consists of, say, 3 people, then the monthly volume of wastewater will be 12 m³.
According to SNiP, the distance to the surface should be at least 1 m. If this condition is not met, sewage can go beyond the structure, and unpleasant odors will surely appear.
The depth should be a maximum of 3 m. This is the optimal depth, because sooner or later you will have to resort to the help of sewers for cleaning. And if the pit is airtight, then such cleaning will need to be carried out several times a month.

Stage three. Preparing the necessary equipment

The work will require:

bayonet and shovel;
trowel, container for mixing cement mortar;
roulette;
cord with small wooden pegs;
building level;
stairs.

Stage four. Digging a pit

You can cope with the construction of a cesspool on your own, without resorting to the help of a construction team with special equipment. This will save you a lot. But remember: you will have to manually remove about 20 m³ of earth.

On a note! If possible, a hole should be dug at the stage of digging a foundation pit for the foundation of the house. After that, only a small part of the work remains.

Mark the perimeter of the future structure. Often the width of the pit is 1 m, and the depth is 1.5 m. The length depends on the volume of wastewater. You can distribute the fertile layer of soil over the site, the rest will have to be taken out. Leave only 1.5 m³ for backfilling the floor.

Pit excavation almost complete

At the same stage, a trench should be dug into which the sewer pipe will be laid.

Stage five. Base

If you plan to build a sealed sewage pit, then arrange a “pillow” of sand 15 cm thick at the bottom of the pit. Lay a layer of concrete of the same thickness on top of the sand, and then pierce the solution with a sharp object to remove air bubbles. Then it remains only to lay a 4-centimeter cement-sand screed over the concrete.

You may be interested in information about what it looks like

Wait for the base to dry completely, then lay sewer pipe to remove impurities.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Stage six. Wall masonry

We’ll make a reservation right away that you don’t have to try too hard on the quality of the masonry, since no one will see it anyway. Do it in ¼ or ½ bricks, in a checkerboard pattern, use a cement-sand mortar. On both sides, plaster the masonry with the same mortar - this will extend the basic operational life of the structure. Bandage the corners.

Having finished with the masonry, isolate the walls with bituminous mastic.

Stage seven. overlap

Follow the steps below to mount the cover.

Step 1. First, dig in the soil about 20 cm on each side - this will provide additional support for the overlapping slab.

Step 2 Build the formwork. It is advisable to use corrugated board for this, so that the overlap is as rigid as possible. Make the formwork also around the hatch and the hole for the ventilation pipe.

Step 3. Lay the reinforcing bars, maintain a distance of about 10-15 cm. Bandage the intersecting bars using steel wire.

Step 4. Fill the floor with concrete mortar, level it.

Bayonet the concrete so that it completely fills the reinforcing mesh. After pouring the solution to the desired thickness, wait for the strength to set. This often takes at least 28 days.

On a note! On top of the floor, you can lay a layer of waterproofing material - for example, roofing felt or PE film.

Stage eight. Backfill

Once the concrete has gained strength, proceed to backfill the cesspool. It is recommended to use for this clay soil to create additional groundwater protection from runoff. It is possible to lay thermal insulation material (for example, expanded polystyrene sheet) on the ceiling, and fill the soil on top. Finally, install the ventilation pipe.

On a note! It is advisable to build a double hatch - this will prevent the spread of an unpleasant odor, especially in the warm season. Install the first cover at ground level, the second - at the level of the overlapping slab. You can fill the space between the covers with slag or expanded clay.

from concrete rings

There is another option - it costs more, but the finished design will look more organic. Brick pits are often rectangular or square, but the use of reinforced concrete rings allows you to achieve ideal round shape. This will prevent excessive load on the walls and, as a result, their destruction. The only drawback of the option is that special equipment may be required for work, because concrete cylinders weigh a lot.

Stage one. Selection of rings

Today, concrete rings are produced in several modifications that differ from each other in diameter (it varies between 70-250 cm). For a cesspool, products with a diameter of 1 m and with the same height are most suitable. For an average house, you will need five rings, the total useful volume of which will be 5 m³. If, according to calculations, the volume should be large, then take other reinforced concrete rings or buy products with a larger diameter.

Dimensions (inner diameter × outer diameter × height), mm	volume, m3	Weight, kg
700×800×290	0,05	130
700×840×590	0,10	250
700×840×890	0,15	380
1000×1160×290	0,08	200
1000×1160×590	0,160	400
1000×1160×890	0,24	600
1500×1680×290	0,13	290
1500×1680×590	0,27	660
1500×1680×890	0,40	1000
2000×2200×590	0,39	980
2000×2200×890	0,59	1480

Such rings are also classified according to the design features into two large groups:

flat;
with a lock.

In the first case, the edges of the products are ordinary, flat, and in the second case, they are equipped with tongue-and-groove locks. Rings with a lock are very convenient, because they not only provide ease of installation, but also reliably seal the entire pit.

On a note! In the manufacture of reinforced concrete rings, at least "five hundredth" cement and a metal reinforcing frame are used. There are also products with a lid and a bottom, which greatly facilitates construction.

Stage two. Construction

Step 1. First, dig a pit. It is important that its dimensions are approximately 40 cm larger than the diameter of the rings. The depth of the pit should exceed the total height of all rings by about 25-30 cm.

Step 2. Level and compact the bottom of the pit, then fill it with a 2-centimeter layer of coarse sand. Pour the sand with water, compact. So you will create a kind of "pillow", on which further installation will be carried out.

Step 3 Further developments will develop according to one of two possible scenarios:

the bottom ring is installed first;
ordinary rings are installed.

In the first case, you will get rid of the laborious procedure for pouring the base; this is the simplest option, so it is recommended to use this. But if for one reason or another it was not possible to purchase a ring with a bottom, then you will have to fill the bottom with concrete.

To do this, lay reinforcing bars in the form of a lattice at the bottom of the pit, and then tie them together with steel wire.

On a note! Raise the reinforcing mesh above the surface so that it (the mesh) is completely in the body of the concrete base. Use pieces of bricks for this.

Then proceed to prepare the solution. For this, mix cement, water, sand and gravel in a ratio of 1: 0.5: 2: 3. Use a minimum of "four hundred" cement, and if the brand is lower, then reduce the volume of fillers. For mixing, you can use a concrete mixer, or you can do the work manually using a shovel. But remember: the solution must be prepared in such a volume that the bottom of the pit is filled in one go, without subsequent kneading.

Pour concrete, spread it over the entire surface. Poke it with a sharp object to remove air bubbles.

Stage three. Installation of rings

Do not lower the rings manually into the pit, because they weigh quite a lot. This will require a crane. Each ring has four fasteners made in the form of ears (for which the products are lifted). For the manufacture of such ears, a wire rod is used, the diameter of which is at least 0.6 cm.

On a note! The rings should be lifted at the same time by all the ears, and the cables should be evenly stretched. The whole procedure must be carried out carefully, slowly.

Once the first ring is down, line it up and set it up with a spirit level. After that, you can drop the rest. Seal the joints between the rings with a cement-based sealant, and treat all the walls of the structure - external and internal - with bituminous mastic.

At the end, a cover is installed. When the truck crane lifts and sets the cover in place, seal the joints between it and the last cylinder. After that, fill in the voids between the walls of the structure and the walls of the pit.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated about this. Of course, you will have to perform labor-intensive earthworks and pay for the rental of special equipment, but good sewerage in a private house is simply necessary, so all costs are fully justified.

Video - How to make a cesspool with your own hands

Reinforced concrete rings or brick - what to choose?

Each of the options is quite simple to implement, but both concrete rings and brickwork have their own advantages.

The strength and practicality of a cesspool made of reinforced concrete rings is noticeably higher.
A brick pit rarely needs sewage cleaning.
The rings can withstand a greater load than brickwork, even if it is made in a “chess-like” way.

As a result, we note that the construction of a cesspool on the site requires a solid investment, at least if we are talking about a really good design, for the manufacture of which quality materials are used. You should not save on materials that will come into contact with moisture (do not use cinder blocks or silicate bricks in construction), because everyone knows that the miser pays more than once. Act carefully, if necessary, ask for help from friends and acquaintances, do not rush - and the sewage pit will serve you for many years.

Table. Water consumption for a private house. The choice of the volume of the cesspool

Water consumers: individual or block residential buildings	Specific average daily (for a year) household and drinking water consumption in settlements per inhabitant, l / day
with plumbing and sewerage without bathtubs	120
with water supply and sewerage without bathtubs, with gas supply	150
with plumbing, sewerage and baths with solid fuel water heaters	180
with plumbing, sewerage and bathroom with gas or electric boilers	190
with plumbing, sewerage, with fast-acting gas heaters (columns) and several baths	250

Good luck with your work!

The device of a storage septic tank made of concrete rings

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To provide comfortable living in a private house, its owner has to put in a lot of effort. This applies to the maintenance of all engineering communications, including the sewerage system, which in its own household consists of a cesspool and sewers.

A cesspool with a volume of 2 cubic meters is capable of processing waste, provided that no more than two family members live permanently in the house or the building is used only for temporary stay in it. The drain pit should be cleaned often, and this costs money and a lot, since you need to order a sewer machine. Experts recommend building a high-quality treatment plant on the site, pumping out the contents of which will be required much less frequently.

Choice of pit type

Before digging a drain hole, you should familiarize yourself with their main types:

An earthen tank without a bottom is the most popular. Due to the lack of a concrete base, the liquid partially sinks into the soil and drains are collected very slowly in the tank. Cleaning it is done no more than once every few months.
The design without a bottom, such as in the photo, has a number of serious drawbacks. Drainage and sewage gradually pollute the soil and groundwater, so the digging of drain holes should be carried out at a certain distance from the house, but not closer than 5 meters. In addition, this type of sewage structure loses its filtering capacity over time due to the gradual silting of the bottom.
A two-chamber septic tank has a more complex design. The waste liquid first enters the first tank, where large wastes settle. The bacteria then proceed to process the contents. The first chamber is connected to another container by means of a drain pipe. Thus, a fine-grained cleaner liquid enters the second part of the septic tank. There, the drains are finally settled.

The second container has a similar device as the first part of the treatment plant. In it, bacteria continue to process wastewater. Both chambers are cleaned approximately 1-2 times during the year. At the outlet of the septic tank, water is obtained that is quite suitable for technical use, for example, for irrigation. It can also be dumped into a nearby body of water.
How to dig a drain hole correctly
There are certain sanitary standards that regulate how to properly dig a drain hole. Initially, you should choose a place where the pit will be built. See also: "".

Minimum depth drain pit should be 2 meters, despite the fact that the level of groundwater is below this mark. Also, the pit should be located at a distance of at least 30 meters from a water source, such as, for example, a well. The minimum distance from the well to the cesspool must in no case be reduced.

Before digging a drain hole, you need to make sure that it will be located at a distance of at least 5 meters from a residential building. It is impossible for the sewage ditch to be on the slope of the site and far from the road (this is required in order to pump out sewage with the help of special equipment if necessary). See also: "".
The pit is dug both manually and with the help of an excavator. Its width should exceed the estimated width of the pit by about 50 centimeters for interior lining. When calculating the depth of the future pit, the thickness of the bottom filling with a concrete solution is taken into account. In addition to the pit, you need to dig trenches for laying sewers.

The walls of the drain pit and its cover
A home craftsman needs to know not only how to dig a drain hole, but also be able to finish its walls.
A drainage cushion is laid at the bottom of the pit, consisting of sand and several layers of rubble. A reinforced concrete slab is placed on it or a concrete screed is made. When a filter pit is created, a 20-cm layer of rubble, stones, broken brick or cinder block is poured onto its bottom.
From materials for wall decoration you can use:
- concrete mortar. Formwork is pre-installed with inserted rods, and then the walls are poured. The thickness of the concrete layer must be at least 7 centimeters;
- Red brick. They lay out the walls from the bottom to the very top;
- reinforced concrete poles. They are placed on the cement mortar in a row. In order to avoid collapse, limiters are made on both sides of the masonry;
- concrete rings. A crane is required for their installation. The rings are placed on a concrete base, equipped at the bottom of the pit. Joints between elements are smeared cement mortar;
- the simplest solution is a ready-made container (plastic as an option) placed in a pit. Before you dig a drain hole, you need to know the parameters of the tank (purchased tank) so that they match its size.
When finishing the walls, at the same time the pit is connected to the sewers. They should be connected tightly with the material of the walls, but not rigidly. This is done in order to prevent damage to the pipes in the process of soil sedimentation. It is advisable to use rubber connectors and adapters with a sufficient degree of strength. Outside, the pit is trimmed with roofing material in several layers or with oily clay.
It is impossible to cover the hermetically drain pit, since it must communicate with the atmosphere. In addition, the lid must have a hole for pumping sewage through it. Therefore, slate sheets are the best option for covering the pit. To do this, wooden logs are placed on top of the pit. When the pit needs to be slightly opened, the sheets are removed and set aside. For such an overlap of the pit, it is required to make insulation for the winter.
Another option is a concrete slab with a cleaning hole. Sometimes you can make an overlap from the boards. Regardless of the type of cover for the waste pit, rain and melt water should not enter the pit.
Chemical preparations for septic tanks and pits
For drain pits, there is a huge selection of various bioactivator products on sale. They are produced in the form of solutions, powders, tablets, etc. These drugs contain strains of microorganisms that can process human waste very quickly. Bacteria feed on organic matter and consume oxygen, which is dissolved in wastewater.
As a result, microorganisms in the shortest possible time relieve the surrounding space near the pit from the stench and decompose sewage into separate components.

The answer to this question can be found in the SNiP, which regulates many issues, including this one. In accordance with the norms, the cesspool should be located at a distance of 12 meters (preferably more than 20 m) from the dwelling. As for the fences, they should be separated from the pit by at least 1 meter.

When constructing a pit without a bottom, it must be taken into account that there should be no wells, springs and other sources of fresh water within a radius of 30 meters from it.

There are some nuances. For example, when choosing a place, the need for periodic cleaning of the tank should be taken into account, so that the entrance for the sewer truck should be free. In addition, the location of the pit at the bottom of the site is unacceptable, because in the spring it will be flooded with melt water.

Capacity and shape of the cesspool

There are no restrictions regarding the shape of the pit. It can be round, rectangular, square and so on.

As for capacity, some factors should be taken into account during its determination:

The number of residents - it is estimated that for a month of living in a house, a family of 3 people is able to produce about 12 m³ of waste. Therefore, the pit must contain at least 18 m³ of sewage.
Depth - the recommended indicator - no more than 2.5 meters. The fact is that if this limit is exceeded, it is guaranteed that there will be difficulties with cleaning, since not all pumps are able to clean up drains from great depths.
Soil - its type is also decisive for calculating the dimensions. Indeed, in the case of digging a hole in clay soil that does not absorb moisture well, you should dig a hole with a margin that should be at least a little more than the monthly norm.

Work procedure

The construction of a cesspool should begin with the choice of material for the walls. There are many types of cesspools: brick, from concrete rings, temporary, solid, from tires, sheathed with wood and others. As for the bottom, it can be both capital (made of concrete) and natural.

Of all this diversity, brick pits with a capital bottom were most widely used during construction with their own hands. In terms of price and quality, they have practically no rivals. The fact is that the concrete bottom will save you from many problems during cleaning, and the brickwork (in a checkerboard pattern) will not prevent the liquid from soaking into the soil.

Materials and tools

You will need the following building materials:

Sand;
Cement;
Concrete;
Brick or cinder block;
Fittings.

If the sewer is clogged, you can use chemicals cleaning, but if they do not help, then there remains only mechanical cleaning with the help of a plumbing cable. You can find out what it is and how to use it.

Concrete is mixed from crushed stone, sand and cement in a ratio of 6:4:1. As for water, its volume will be determined as it is kneaded. You can calculate the amount of brick needed by dividing the height of the wall by the height of the brick (do not forget about the seams - about 5-6 mm). This will give the number of rows, which must be multiplied by the number of bricks in the row.

The use of a cinder block in construction will significantly reduce time costs, but its service life is limited, since under the constant influence of moisture, the cinder block will quickly collapse. And nets from old beds are perfect as reinforcement - this will save a lot of money.

In addition, the following tools are required:

Roulette;
Shovels (shovel and bayonet);
Buckets (preferably 3 or 4 pieces);
Pick;
Building level;
Concrete mixer (at worst, an ordinary trough will do);
Master OK;
Stairs;
Rammer;
Ropes and pegs (for fencing and marking).

Digging a pit

If you have special earthmoving equipment, the work will be done very quickly, but in its absence, you will have to do everything yourself. It is not recommended to dig a hole yourself, because you will have to dig about 20 cubic meters of earth, and this is not only tiring, but also quite long. Consequently, the work will be delayed, so help will not be superfluous.

Before starting digging, it is necessary to carefully mark up and only then start work. After the work is completed, the earth will have to be taken out, leaving a little (1 or 2 m³) in order to subsequently fill the hatch - this will prevent the drains from freezing in winter.

During the concreting of the bottom, it is enough just to pour out the solution and level it. After that, you will have to wait at least 7 days, as the concrete needs time to harden.

Walls

The brick must be laid out in a checkerboard pattern with the obligatory dressing of the corners. This will not only allow the soil to absorb moisture, but will also save money on materials.

overlap

A slab is used as a cover. Her choice is a very responsible event. Such a slab must not only be durable (withstand the weight of several people), but also be suitable in size (it must protrude beyond the edges of the pit by at least 30 cm). The floor slab can be purchased or you can fill it yourself, after preparing the form.

The water supply system must be reliable and durable. for plumbing will help you make the right decision and choose the best option.

When pouring, it must be taken into account that the thickness of the slab should be about 12 cm. Do not forget about the reinforcement of the concrete, as well as the hooks that need to be inserted during pouring. It is with the help of these hooks that it will be possible to raise the plate. In addition, it is necessary to leave a hatch in the thickness of the concrete through which gases will exit the cesspool.

Experts recommend casting the slab simultaneously with the start of concreting the bottom. Thus, as soon as the work on the construction of the cesspool is completed, the slab will harden sufficiently and it will be possible to immediately install it.

As a result, the construction of a cesspool with your own hands is not only possible, but also within the power of any homely owner of a summer cottage.

Plumbing, bathroom and toilet work country house requires arrangement competent system collection and disposal of wastewater. And if, in the presence of a centralized sewage system, it is enough to obtain permission and make an insert into the communal system, then in the absence of the benefits of civilization near the site, the problem of waste disposal will have to be dealt with independently. Currently, there are options to address this issue, including factory cleaning systems, but the simplest option so far is the cesspool, a structure proven by more than one generation of homeowners. This type of sewage tank is good because it can be easily built with your own hands, and the emergence of new technologies and materials makes it possible to do this in record time.

Design features

Depending on the design, any cesspool can be attributed to filtration (absorbing) drain structures or sealed sewer tanks. Sewage collectors of the first type ensure the absorption of wastewater into the ground, where they are decomposed by microorganisms into water and organic matter, while the latter are storage tanks that require pumping and removal of domestic wastewater from the site.

The cost of arranging a cesspool will pay off handsomely: this structure will give an urban level of comfort even far from civilization

Many sources on the network claim that the choice of one or another design depends on the daily amount of waste being drained. The authors recommend using sealed cesspools with a volume of more than one cubic meter per day. We believe this statement is only partly true. Judge for yourself: the maximum depth of the structure is 4 m (otherwise the hose of the sewage truck will not be able to reach the bottom of the pit), while more than 1 m goes to deepen the sewer line. Therefore, about 3 m of usable height remains. Even if the pit has an impressive diameter and volume of 5-6 cubic meters, it will have to be pumped out at least once a week. The filtration design will make it possible to increase this interval by a third, especially since, if necessary, the process of pumping it out does not differ at all from servicing a sealed container. The only thing that can deter the construction of absorbent sewage pits is their low environmental friendliness, since a large number of runoff can contaminate aquifers. If the hydrology of the site, as well as its size and landscape features, allow the construction of a pit of any type, then the filtration system will be unrivaled.

A feature of absorbent sewer collectors is the presence of a drainage layer

Sewage pits without pumping are characterized by the presence of side walls and a floor slab, while instead of a bottom, a crushed stone pillow is equipped in the structure. Thanks to it, wastewater is filtered from large fractions of sewage and absorbed into the ground. Often, the walls of absorbent structures are perforated, which increases the absorbency of the pit. The cover of the structure prevents debris from entering the pit, avoids freezing of the sewer in winter and protects against the spread of unpleasant odors. A hatch is built in the upper part of the structure, through which the level of effluents is monitored and the pit is pumped out.

Design features of sealed and filtering sewage pits

The advantages of absorbing tanks are their simplicity and low cost. In addition, when using them, the operational interval between pumping out sludge and waste masses increases significantly. However, the presence of many shortcomings does not allow us to call this design ideal:

limited daily volume of wastewater;
the impossibility of building a structure with a high level of groundwater;
low degree of wastewater treatment;
decrease in filtration capacity during operation;
unpleasant odors around the building.

Despite these disadvantages, leaky cesspools attract with their simplicity and the ability to use materials that often remain during the construction of a country house.

The factory plastic container is one of the most durable and simple ways sewerage arrangement

Sewer pits of a sealed type are free from the disadvantages of absorbing structures, but require regular pumping of waste. They differ from filtration wells in that the bottom and walls of the tanks are made waterproof, and their design involves the installation of a ventilation riser. The construction technology of both cesspools differs only in terms of sealing and has much in common. As for the choice of location, for hermetically sealed structures, the norms are more democratic, although they require to think over the ways of the entrance and the arrangement of the site for the sewer truck.

The use of special bacterial agents makes it possible to increase the efficiency of waterproof drainage structures. Bacteria process sewage into bottom sediment and water, which can be used to water the garden.

The choice of material for construction

The filtration pit can be built from whole or broken bricks, gas silicate blocks or concrete rings. Also, the walls of the structure are made of concrete, they use capacious iron containers without a bottom or old car tires. In a word, any suitable materials will fit for arranging a leaky structure.

For the manufacture of drain collectors of the second type, solid cast concrete structures, as well as sealed containers made of metal and plastic. In addition, you can build a hole and traditional way- from brick or reinforced concrete rings, having concreted its bottom, and ensuring the watertightness of the walls.

brick

Brick pit absorbing type

A waste tank built of brick is one of the most inexpensive and simple options, especially if it is necessary to build a pit without pumping out. Brick allows you to make the walls solid or with gaps that increase the filtration capacity of the structure. The advantages of this design include the possibility of building a pit of any size and configuration. Brick absorbent wells are not without the disadvantages inherent in any leaky systems - silting and negative impact on the environment. In addition, masonry brick under aggressive operating conditions quickly collapses, which leads to a short service life of filtration systems - about 20 years.

From car tires

Worn-out truck tires are a cheap and durable material for equipping a sewage tank without pumping

You can build a drain system for the bathroom and toilet of a country house at minimal cost using car tires as building material for an absorbent cesspool. To do this, it is enough to dig a pit of sufficient size and equip a filter layer of crushed stone at its bottom. Tires installed one on top of the other form a durable structure that prevents shedding of the walls of the structure.

As in the previous version, the negative aspects include a high probability of environmental pollution with wastewater and tire decomposition products, rapid silting and a decrease in the efficiency of the system.

To increase the filtration capacity of the cesspool, spacers are installed between the tires. The resulting gaps work in the same way as the perforations of concrete and brick pits, increasing the area of contact of wastewater with the soil.

From monolithic reinforced concrete

A concrete tank is one of the strongest and most durable sewer structures.

A cesspool of this type is a structure with concrete walls and a bottom, built by pouring concrete mixture into an installed crate. Despite the fact that such a container is considered the most reliable and durable, high labor costs do not allow us to call this design the best. At present, this method of construction is being crowded out by ready-made sets of reinforced concrete rings and covers.

From concrete rings

Depending on the tightness requirements, concrete rings can have solid or perforated walls.

The arrangement of a cesspool from cast concrete rings can only be partly attributed to inexpensive options. This is due to the fact that building materials will not only have to be bought, but also to hire equipment for loading and transporting to the site. In addition, the installation of heavy reinforced concrete products will also require the use of lifting mechanisms (further we will tell you how, if you wish and have free time, you can get by with just a shovel). Nevertheless, it is this option that is the simplest and most durable way to equip both absorbent cesspools and hermetic structures. Reinforced concrete rings with perforated walls are currently being produced, which are ideal for the construction of waste collectors without pumping.

From metal and plastic containers

Even from an old metal barrel, you can build a filtration pit, which will ensure the efficiency of the sewerage of a country house

The easiest way to make a sewer pit is to bury a plastic or metal container of a suitable volume at a depth. Moreover, this method allows you to get both a sealed structure and an absorbent system. The difference between the second option and the first one is the absence of the bottom of the tank and the presence of perforations in the walls. In addition, in the latter case, you will have to additionally prepare the bottom of the pit by making a crushed stone filter pad.

Project for a summer cottage

Those who think that the construction of a cesspool does not require preliminary calculations are mistaken. In order to operate sewer system passed without emergency stops, it is necessary not only to calculate the required volume of the sewage well and consider its design, but also to choose the right place for construction.

The size of the waste sewer facility

The size of the cesspool depends primarily on the daily amount of wastewater, design (with or without pumping), mode of operation (regular or occasional use), soil type and other factors.

To calculate the sewer tank without a bottom, the following factors are taken into account:

the volume of wastewater per family member when using the bathroom, toilet and washing machine taken equal to 200 liters. Depending on the specific conditions, this figure is reduced to 150 liters;
the calculation is carried out according to the maximum daily wastewater consumption;
when determining the size of the cesspool, its volume must contain at least three times the daily amount of wastewater. That is, for a family of three, the container must contain at least 1.8 cubic meters of liquid.

The dimensions of the sewer well are determined for reasons of convenience, given that the depth must be measured from the entry point into it of the sewer line. As for the proportions of the structure, its depth should be at least 2–2.5 times greater than the vertical dimensions (length, width or diameter). Due to the fact that the effluents are cleaned by anaerobic bacteria and go into the ground, the size of the absorbing system will be sufficient for efficient operation.

When determining the volume of the filtration cesspool, the composition of the soil on the site must be taken into account. Sands and sandy loams perfectly pass water, while clay or loamy soil requires a larger area of contact of wastewater with the soil, and, consequently, an increase in the size of the pit.

For the construction of a storage sewer tank, the same averaged data on drainage are used as in the case discussed above. In this case, the daily volume is multiplied by the interval between pumping in days. For example, if it is planned to pump out a hole every two weeks, then for a family of three, its volume should be 150x3x14 = 6.3 cubic meters.

Most sewer trucks will be able to take away a little more than 3 cubic meters. m of wastewater, therefore, a comprehensive analysis of the arrangement of a large-capacity sewage tank is necessary

Before making a final conclusion on the size of the waste facility, be sure to consult with the utilities or private individuals who pump out the sewer. The fact is that the volume of most sewage trucks is 3.6 cubic meters, and only some models have a tank increased to 5-8 cubic meters. If your area is being served for the first time, then you need to carefully consider whether it makes sense to build a sewer with a larger capacity than the sewer can pump out. At the same time, it is necessary to lay down additional volume if the arrival of service vehicles may be difficult or irregular.

Choosing a place for construction

When choosing a place for construction, they are guided by the norms of sanitary and epidemiological legislation, construction SNiP and common sense. If you collect all the recommendations, you get a rather long list. Nevertheless, we advise you not to neglect the rules, since their failure to comply is fraught with both inefficient work and the inconvenience of sewerage maintenance, as well as administrative responsibility under the current Code of Administrative Offenses.

Restrictions on the choice of location for a cesspool

It is not necessary to place a cesspool in the lowest part of the site in order to avoid its flooding with flood or rainwater.
It is forbidden to equip filtration facilities if the groundwater level is less than 4 m.
The hole must be removed:
from the foundations of buildings - not less than 10 m;
from fences - more than 1 m;
from roads and trees - 4 m.
The distance from sources of drinking water should be:
for clay soils - at least 20 m;
for loams - at least 30 m;
for sand and sandy loam - from 50 m.
When choosing a place for a cesspool, be sure to take into account the possibility of a sewer truck access.

Blueprints. Photo gallery

At the final stage of designing a sewer tank, a drawing of the structure is drawn up indicating the dimensions and distances from nearby objects. In addition, the entry points of sewer lines and other design features are indicated. For those who consider such a structure to be so elementary that its design does not require "excessive gestures", we recommend that you draw up at least a simple sketch. Believe me: it is better to correct mistakes made with a pencil on paper than to redo a multi-ton reinforced concrete structure. The presented drawings of cesspools can be used in your project, adapted to specific sizes and conditions.

Drawing of a filtration sewage facility Drawing of a sewer tank made of concrete rings Drawing of a sewer pit with overflow Drawing of a cesspool for a country toilet

Instructions for making sealed and seepage pit latrines

Having decided on the location of the drain pit and making necessary calculations start earthworks. If the sewer is equipped using a plastic or metal container, brick or concrete, then a pit of the required dimensions is prepared. It is dug by hand or with the use of earthmoving equipment.

The excavator will save time and effort when preparing the pit, but in some cases it will not be possible to use earthmoving equipment

For the construction of a sewer, it is also easiest to use the services of an excavator and a crane. However, there are cases when the use of equipment on the site is impossible for a number of reasons - there are no access roads, power lines interfere, etc. In this case, they use old way which our grandfathers used. One of the rings is put in place, they climb inside and, using a shovel with a short handle, they remove the soil, gradually removing the earth from under the walls. It is necessary to constantly monitor the level of the product, since it is important that the reinforced concrete element goes into the ground strictly vertically. After the upper cut of the structure is flush with the site, the next ring is installed and the soil is continued to be removed until the desired depth is reached.

Necessary tools and materials

Depending on the design of the wastewater tank, bricks, concrete rings or a precast concrete structure with a lid, tires from trucks, formwork boards, etc. are prepared before construction begins. In addition, you will need the following tools and materials:

cement and sand for mortar preparation;
small rubble and crushed stone for arranging the filtration layer;
metal bar or reinforcement for the manufacture of a concrete cover;
a hatch with a frame or metal corners and metal for its manufacture;
waterproofing;
buckets and a container for preparing a solution;
trowel, mason's hammer;
bubble level, cord and plumb;
shovel and bayonet shovels.

If planned large volume concrete work, it is best to use a concrete mixer, which you can borrow from friends or rent.

Brick building for a private house

For the construction of the sewer, red solid brick is used. It is best if it is burnt material, which is considered a defect in production. Silicate products are not recommended due to their low resistance in a humid environment.

The order of work is as follows:

After the pit is dug, its bottom is leveled and covered with a 50-cm layer of rubble or concreted, depending on the tightness of the structure. The latter option is carried out with the arrangement of an armored belt, which strengthens the concrete base of the drain collector.
Arrangement of the filtration layer
Perform wall laying. Depending on the project, the structure may have a round, square or rectangular shape. The masonry of the sealed container is continuous, with careful filling of all seams with sand-cement mortar. To make a pit without pumping out, the brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern, increasing the filtration efficiency of the structure.
It looks like masonry sewer pit absorbing type
Around the sewer pipeline, it is better to make a window with a side and upper gap between the pipe and the masonry from 5 to 10 cm. Such a solution will not affect the tightness of the structure, but when the structure shrinks, this trick will save the pipe from damage.
The walls are laid out to a height below 20–30 cm from the level of the site, after which they begin to arrange the floor. To do this, a sealed crate with a hole for the hatch is installed on the pit, an armored belt is constructed and the slab is poured with concrete mortar. The frame and the hatch cover can be bought or made from improvised materials: pieces of metal corners, profile pipes and steel sheet.
Overlapping the sewer tank with a hatch for pumping wastewater
The slab is covered with a layer of soil and rammed.
In regions with a harsh climate, the distance from the plate to the zero mark of the site is increased to 50–60 cm. This allows you to fill the hole with a thick layer of soil, which prevents the sewer from freezing in winter.

Video: the secrets of building a brick pit

Sewage well made of reinforced concrete rings

To date, manufacturers offer rings in a wide range. It must be understood that for a diameter of additional elements of more than 1.5 m, you will have to use lifting equipment, so the best option for making a cesspool with your own hands is products with a size of Ø1 × 0.89 m. Together with the rings, you can purchase a concrete bottom and cover. This will reduce construction time to a minimum.

Table standard sizes reinforced concrete rings for wells and cesspools

Instructions for the progress of work:

By analogy with a brick structure, a crushed stone filter layer is built at the bottom of the pit, a concrete pad is poured or a factory reinforced concrete base slab is installed (in the case of using an excavator). At the same time, it is imperative to control the correctness of the work performed by the construction level.
3-4 rings are stacked on top of each other, reaching the top level. If necessary, the desired height can be achieved with several rows of brickwork.
When installing rings of large diameter, lifting equipment is indispensable
Using a perforator, holes are made in the concrete wall for sewer lines. We remind you that their size must ensure the integrity of the pipes during shrinkage.
If it is necessary to obtain a sealed structure, the joints of the rings are sealed with a mortar, and after it dries, the outer surface is sealed with bituminous and other moisture-proof compounds, and the inner one is plastered.
The design of imported rings will ensure the required tightness immediately upon completion of installation
Install or make your own floor slab.
When buying concrete rings, you can also purchase a finished floor. This will reduce construction time, but will lead to additional costs.
The structure is covered with a layer of soil.

Video: construction of concrete rings

Concrete pit from monolithic reinforced concrete

The sewer well made of monolithic concrete provides excellent tightness and is one of the most reliable designs. Note that in this case it is better to dig the pit manually. This will allow you to install the crate on only one side and will reduce the consumption of concrete. Construction works carried out in stages.

The bottom of the pit is leveled and tamped, after which a concrete screed is made at least 10 cm thick with internal reinforcement.
After the concrete has set, the side surfaces of the pit are covered waterproofing material. This will avoid shedding of soil during concrete work.
Installing the armored belt and pouring the base
At a distance of at least 4 cm from the walls of the pit, a vertical armored belt is mounted and formwork is installed. It should be said that a wall thickness of 15–20 cm will be enough for a pit of any size.
If there are not enough boards for the manufacture of the crate, you can use the sliding type formwork.
Adjustable (sliding formwork) construction
Install mortgages in order to obtain openings for the installation of sewer pipes.
When pouring concrete, be sure to perform its bayonet or tamping. This will remove air bubbles from the mixture and increase the strength of the structure.
A large pit will provide additional convenience during work, however, it will require the use of double-sided formwork
Sewer pipes are brought into the inlets and ventilation is installed.
Fill the top plate with soil and install the hatch.
Pit cover. Pay attention to the exit of the ventilation riser - for sealed sewage systems this is a must

Video: reinforced concrete drain pit

Do-it-yourself cesspool from tires from vehicles

Tires from heavy vehicles and buses are used to make a sewer pit. Given the width of the wheels, you will need at least 8-10 tires. The pit can be dug both manually and with an excavator. It is better to make its diameter 20–30 cm larger than the external dimensions of the tires. This will facilitate their installation and make it possible to increase the throughput of the absorbent system. In some sources, you can find recommendations to remove the side surfaces of tires to increase the internal volume of the pit. We consider this statement to be incorrect, since this will make it difficult to install them on top of each other and reduce the strength of the structure. If we take into account that tire pits are used for absorbent systems, then it is easy to conclude that the area of contact of the liquid with the soil has priority over the volume of the container.

At a certain height, a hole is cut in the tire for the drain pipe

According to the laying method, the option with tires is identical to the method using concrete rings. The only thing I would like to note is the possibility of installing 5-6 spacers between two adjacent tires, which can be used as a red brick. The gaps between the wheels will allow the filtration pit to work more efficiently. For the same purpose, the gap between the tires and the walls of the pit is filled with rubble or brick fragments, after which an overlap is installed on the pit and covered with soil.

The walls of the pit can be strengthened not with rubble or bricks, but with the remaining tires. Such a solution will also increase the absorption capacity of the sewer system.

It is possible to increase the absorbency of the pits without pumping out by installing a drainage pipe with a height of more than 1 m and a diameter of at least 20 cm, which is half dug into the ground. In its hidden part, holes are made with a diameter of not more than 5 cm. Of course, best material It won't be metal, but plastic.

Video: tire pit in a country house

Decoration of places for installation of cesspools. Photo gallery

Thanks to the layer of soil that covers the cesspool, it is not difficult to hide it from the eyes. To do this, shrubs are planted over the sewer, a flower bed is set up or a lawn is sown. To decorate sewer manholes, wooden and stone elements are used, showing ingenuity and imagination. Perhaps from our photo gallery you can draw interesting idea or use a ready-made solution on your site.

Garden stand mounted on the cover of the pit Lawn Decorative elements in the form of wooden circles Such a hatch is completely invisible against the background of the lawn. Decoration with natural materials Even the ventilation riser can be beaten gracefully and beautifully Aerobatics- use the space and create a real masterpiece landscape design Installation of a flowerpot of the original form with flowers decoration artificial stones Installation of decorative figures on the hatch - a mill, a well, a hearth

A huge variety of designs of cesspools allows you to build a sewage facility in full accordance with the needs and financial capabilities. Finally, I would like to remind you of the need to comply with sanitary norms and rules, especially in terms of the danger of groundwater pollution. Let's take care of the cleanliness of the environment together, thinking about what our children and grandchildren will get.

The arrangement of sewage for a country house is an acute issue for every summer resident. A cesspool without a bottom is the best option for the cost and complexity of organizing sewage. A cesspool is a simple structure, the installation of which does not require building skills. Such a device can be made by hand.

First you need to dig a hole of the right size.

Before proceeding, familiarize yourself with the sanitary and hygienic requirements that determine the location of the future sewer well. It is set up under certain conditions. This is the case if the daily volume of sewage waste is not more than 1 cubic meter. Also, a device without a bottom is prohibited in a site with groundwater, since when using sewage, effluents are mixed with drinking water. For this reason, the distance between the well and cesspool is at least 30 meters. How to make a sewer for the house?

The device and principle of operation of the cesspool

According to the Building Norms and Rules (SNiP), arranging this type of sewer is the easiest way. Due to the fact that the bottomless cesspool fills up quickly, construction is not recommended with a daily volume of wastewater over 1 cubic meter. It is easy to make such a design:

We select the correct location on the adjacent plot, guided by sanitary and hygienic rules.
up to 2 meters deep. The parameters and shape of the well are selected individually: square, rectangular or round.
We apply a concrete layer on the walls, cover with bricks or install a concrete ring of large diameter.
We dig a trench for sewer pipes with a gradual slope. After laying the wiring from the house and adjacent buildings, it is recommended to bury the sewer pipe to a depth of at least 1 meter, taking into account the highest point.
It remains to make the overlap and start using the new sewer.

To dig a hole for the sewer, use the services of an excavator, and if this is not possible, you can do it manually. Despite the fact that the technology is “without a bottom”, the walls of the well are equipped, in connection with the quality indicators of this product. Otherwise you can do brickwork. The choice of pipes for sewerage plays an important role. PVC pipes – the best way for arrangement of system of drains. Such eternal pipes will last for hundreds of years.

A distinctive feature is that in bottomless wells there is a rapid filling with sewage. But the liquid component seeps through the ground. The soil itself acts as a natural filter. Drain wells with accumulated solid drains are filled up. Subsequently, they will be treated with bacteria, which will allow them to be used as fertilizers.

If it fills up quickly and the wastewater is slowly filtered naturally, it is recommended to make holes in the walls of the concrete rings to make additional drainage areas.

If the water in the cesspool does not go away, therefore, accumulations of silt have appeared at the bottom. When the cesspool is silted up, it is recommended to call a sewage truck to clean the walls and bottom of the pit. Otherwise, the drain well is covered with a layer of soil, and a new one is being built nearby.

Features of construction on light soils

Sandy.
Forest.
Peat.

In such soils, the filtration process occurs in an accelerated form, which negatively affects groundwater. To avoid the problem of contamination of drinking water, it is recommended to line the inner walls with concrete rings and partially close the bottom of the drain pit. The rate of sewage seepage will slow down and the risk of groundwater contamination will be significantly reduced.

Filtration speed control on clay soils

In hard soils (especially clayey ones), the opposite problem arises - water does not leave the cesspool in them. This situation can cause premature overflow of the sewage pit. This will cause unpleasant odors in the territory of a private house. If water does not go to, then it is recommended to take a number of measures for the additional drainage of sewage:

We create drainage holes at the bottom of the pit. The degree of drainage depends on the depth of the holes made.
We insert perforated pipes into the holes so that a part of the pipe remains above the surface of the bottom of the drain pit.
The upper part of the pipe is closed with a special plug.

The second way to increase the level of filtration is to equip a drain pit without a bottom with an overflow system. It is difficult to make such a device, but this is the most effective option for solving the problem of excess wastewater.

The overflow is equipped as follows:

An additional drain well is being built in the immediate vicinity.
They are interconnected by trenches under a slope, into which a sewer pipe is laid.
The end of the connecting sewer pipe in the main pit adjoins above, and below the additional one.

It is worth noting that in different time soil properties change over the years. The cesspool is carefully insulated in winter so that the walls and bottom do not freeze.

Sanitary and hygienic requirements

To prevent the risk of groundwater contamination during the operation of a drain pit without a bottom, the following rules should be followed:

cesspool is 50 meters.
The distance from the well to the cesspool is at least 30 meters. In the case of hard ground types, this distance varies up to 20 meters.
The minimum allowable distance from the house to the cesspool is 5 meters.
The depth of the pit without a bottom is at least 2 meters.
This type of sewerage is constructed on the condition that the volume of daily effluents is no more than 1 cubic meter of effluents.
If the cesspool is quickly filled, then additional measures to accelerate the natural filtration of wastewater.

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