How to create a sewer in a private house. External and internal sewerage. The choice of materials and the location of the sewer. Installation of pipes and sewer drains.

When building a mansion, the sewerage scheme in a private house should play an important role. After all, the comfort of living and the availability of repair work sewers in the future.

Stages of laying the sewer system. Materials for creating sewers. Internal and external sewerage, what are the differences in them. Choice of location. Arrangement options. Selection of the necessary pipes. Tips and tricks for a secure installation.

Types of waste systems

During the construction of a new building, sewerage is an integral part. With modern materials and quantity useful information on the Internet, learning how to properly design a sewerage scheme in a private house with your own hands will not be a problem.

By following simple requirements, you can easily mount the waste system yourself, since you do not have to use outdated bulky materials.

Since the old grandfather's toilet has lost its relevance, especially in the cold season, three main types of waste systems are currently in operation:

• A system connected to a collective or city collector;
• Stationary waste collection point;
• Sealed tank;
• Stationary sewer well without bottom;
• Scheme of installation of bio-sewerage.

The principles of installing the pipe system in the house and up to the collector are almost the same for all types. It is convenient to carry out all the wiring around the house from PVC, and it is more rational to make the connection to the collection point with a HDPE pipe for technical purposes, since its length allows a seamless method. The main branch connected to the toilet is laid with a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm, all other standard points of water intake (sink, washing machine, shower cabin), are connected to the common system with pipes of the 50th diameter.

The only requirement is a 2-3 degree angle on the horizontal sections to ensure optimum water flow.

PVC sewer pipes have their advantages and disadvantages when installing a waste system:

• Easy way to connect. The whole circuit is assembled as a constructor, pipes and components are simply inserted into each other;
• The materials are light in weight compared even to HDPE materials;
• A simple way of fastening, including on a vertical surface;
• The only downside is maximum length free access 6 m.

Do-it-yourself sewerage scheme in a private house

Do-it-yourself installation of a sewerage scheme in a private house is possible for all types of sewerage, except for biosewerage. To implement this option, it is recommended to contact specialists. All others can be mounted independently, but when connected to central system, you will need a package of permits.

Where to start

The first step is to select the collection point type. The most profitable is connecting to a common city branch. The user makes a one-time investment in the installation and required materials and pays a symbolic amount for the services monthly. This option is not always feasible for suburban construction, but there is an alternative.

Stationary sewerage scheme of a private house: the depth of the pipe to the tank

The tank can be made from different materials.

It could be:

• Metal or plastic tank;
• concrete structure;
• Concrete rings mounted on a concrete base.

This method is acceptable even if there is a water well on the site, since liquid waste does not penetrate the soil with good waterproofing. The only drawback is the waste of money on the services of sewers. The septic tank, as a rule, is mounted to a depth of 1.5-2 m. The pipeline is strongly recommended to be laid below the level of soil freezing, which can be determined from a special map.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeny

Ask an expert

Depending on the number of points of water intake, the working volume of the tank is selected, but it should be borne in mind that the standard volume of a sewage truck is 3 m3, that is, the volume of your tank must be a multiple of this indicator.

For example, if the volume of the tank is 5 m3, you will either overpay for the services of the second machine, or 2 m3 of the working volume will be filled once and become useless.

In the case of a standard family of 4, with occasional laundry, showers, and dishwashing, a 3 m3 container is filled on average in two weeks.

Option with leaky waste collection point

When implementing this type of sewerage, the location of the waste collection point is very important. The minimum distance from the house and outbuildings to cesspool is 6-10 m. Otherwise, liquid drains wash out the soil and the sandy cushion of the foundation.

Execution options:

• Concrete rings installed on a drainage pad;
• Brick version of the cesspool;
• Metal or plastic barrels with holes connected in one system.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeny

Professional builder. 20 years of experience

Ask an expert

Note! When using barrels, the base is laid out with gravel, since the weight of the loose soil will press the container into loose soil.

When laying sewerage in a private house, it is recommended that the moat be performed with a slope exceeding an angle of 2-3o for a more efficient process. The depth of the ditch for each case is different, depending on the size of the site and its location relative to the access roads.

The basic principles of the sewer pipeline

Depending on the number of communication drain points, a diagram of the internal arrangement of pipes is drawn up. For convenience, the diagram is drawn on graph paper. In the case of building a two-story building, in order to save materials, it is recommended to locate sanitary facilities and secondary drain points as close as possible to the collector. The main collector is mounted along one vertical line on all planned floors, all subsequent parts of the system are connected in series to the main line.

The technology for assembling PVC materials is very simple, since any pipe can be shortened to right size. Also, each node closed system it is recommended to equip with an emergency adapter, in case of blockage, or an adapter of a larger diameter.

Units located in closed piers are recommended to be connected using a sealant. It is recommended to avoid 90° angles to reduce the risk of clogging.

The principle of operation of the water lock

Water valve prevents penetration unpleasant odors from the sewer to the premises. His device has the same design, the differences are only in size. Water serves as a kind of plug.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeny

Professional builder. 20 years of experience

Ask an expert

Note! In the event of a long period of inactivity without operation, the water evaporates, and the water seal loses its functional qualities.

Vacuum valves and fan pipe

These two concepts are unknown to most people outside the plumbing profession. The purpose of these two elements is to prevent air from being drawn into the system when draining. a large number water or during the operation of sewers, at the time of pumping waste from the storage tank.

Undoubtedly, installing a sewer system is the easiest stage of construction compared to electricity or building walls, but there are many pitfalls in this stage.

Here is a list of some of them:

• When buying pipes and accessories, check the presence of a rubber gasket in the socket. She is often lost;
• It is strongly not recommended to connect the exhaust pipe to the ventilation system;
• In the case of a standard set of water consumption points (one toilet bowl, two sinks, a washing machine, a shower cabin), it is not necessary to install a fan pipe, you can limit yourself to a vacuum valve;
• When laying PVC pipes in a ditch, carefully monitor the joints, as the joints are unstable;
• It is strongly recommended to install an emergency drain to clean the sewer. It is installed as close as possible to the place where the pipe enters the house, in an accessible place.

Compared to other stages of construction, sewerage is the easiest to install, with the exception of bio-sewerage. Consult with experts or select specialized literature, as rash actions can destroy the bacteria present in the storage tank. For example, from a bleach-based toilet bowl cleaner, the bacteria will recover in a week.

Do-it-yourself sewer installation in a private house requires special care and responsibility. The degree of comfort during living and the ease of operation of the facilities (the absence of constantly occurring blockages, freezing of communications, unpleasant odors and loud sounds in the room) depend on how accurately all the conditions and established rules are observed.

Sewer systems for country house- these are complex schemes for the collection, disposal and treatment of wastewater. As a rule, two types of sewerage are organized in the house.

• Household is the collection of wastewater from the toilet, bathroom, kitchen sink and water-consuming household appliances (dishwashers and washing machines).
• designed to collect rain and melt water. It prevents flooding of cellars and cellars, damage to the foundation, the appearance of excessive soil moisture and rotting of the roots of cultivated plants.

Since there are no oil and oil products in the storm drains of a private house, it is allowed to combine storm and domestic sewers into one system, however, such a solution will require a larger volume of the receiver (local treatment plant, septic tank or cesspool) and the associated high equipment costs , therefore, the expediency of such a combination is decided by each homeowner individually.

The composition of the sewer system

Any sewer system can be divided into three main parts:

• house communications, representing the union of drains from each point into a single collector,
• external (or external) pipelines connecting the outlet of the collector from the house (in some cases, outlet pipes from the bath cut into the pipeline or) and the receiving device,
• actually receiving device.

When arranging as a sink for wastewater is the most important issue.

And for the installation of stormwater drainage, an important element is, the types of which have information in a separate article.

You may also need for risers and 50 mm for subsequent wiring.

The receiving device may be a storage or cleaning facility.

• performs partial soil filtration of wastewater, however, bacteria living in the soil are able to process inclusions only if the amount of wastewater does not exceed one cubic meter per day. As well as sealed models with a bottom, requiring pumping out the contents with the help of a sewage machine, this design is more suitable for giving than for a house with permanent residence.
  
• Finished septic tanks well-known manufacturers are carefully designed and field-tested designs that require cleaning much less often than more simple devices. You can save money by building.
  
• Local treatment plants (VOCs)- quite expensive and complex devices that require connection to the power grid, which at the same time are able to remove from wastewater and process up to 98% of impurities, forming water and sludge suitable for irrigation, which can be used as an organic environmentally friendly fertilizer.
  

The choice of the place of the receiver of drains and its parameters

Regardless of the type of receiver (processor or storage), its the volume must be at least three daily norms of water consumption for all residents of the house. The existing norms determine the average value per person - 200 liters, on the basis of which the volume of the tank is calculated as 600 liters (200x3) multiplied by the number of people. When using treatment facilities with several tanks connected in series, their total volume is taken into account.

The location of the receiver is determined taking into account certain requirements.

• The structure is installed at the lowest point of the site, if the latter has a complex relief.
• Distances to important objects must comply with accepted standards:

- to a source of drinking water - up to 50 meters (depending on the type of receiving device, groundwater level),

- to the road - at least 5 m,

- to a reservoir or other open reservoir - 30 m,

- to a residential building - 5 m.

Charting

It is best to take care of the sewerage scheme at the design stage of the house. At that time premises with water drainage are trying to be placed in one sector so as to reduce the length of the pipes. This makes it possible to purchase fewer pipes. In addition, the short length and fewer connections simplify the circuit and reduce the likelihood of malfunctions.

In order for a do-it-yourself sewerage scheme in a private house to fully comply with the requirements, and during its development, important points, you should use ready plan at home or draw it on a piece of graph paper.

• The first step in drawing up a diagram is to plot all the drain points on the plan. If there is more than one floor, a plan with the location of plumbing fixtures is drawn up floor by floor.
• After that, the location of the common riser is applied to the diagram. Since the diameter of the toilet outlet is usually 110 mm and the riser has similar parameters, the latter is most often located in the toilet. This allows you to fulfill one more condition - the length of the outlet from the toilet to the collector should not be more than 1000 mm. It is recommended, if possible, to locate the drain points closer to the riser, the greater their outlet.
• A collector pipeline line is drawn on the diagram to the point of exit from the house, which, at the construction stage, is arranged in the foundation of the building and equipped with a protective sleeve (a piece of pipe whose diameter is so much larger than the diameter of the collector to ensure its free entry and the presence of gaps).
• Drain lines are drawn from each drain point to the collector. Branches located nearby (for example, from the bathroom and the washbasin) can be combined into one line. An exception is the drain line from the toilet, which under any conditions should not have tie-ins from other drain points.

It is important to remember that a do-it-yourself sewerage system in a private house must be carried out with a certain slope (3% for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, 2% for pipes with a diameter of 110 mm).

• In addition to pipelines for transporting wastewater, the installation site is applied to the diagram.
• An external sewerage scheme is similarly applied to the site plan, taking into account the location of buildings, trees (optimally, communications should take place at a distance of at least 3 meters from them). For every 10-15 meters of the main line, as well as at the places of turns and tie-ins of additional lines, an inspection well is arranged.

Features of the choice of pipes and fittings

The main aspect of pipe selection is the type of material. Despite the strength of cast iron products, sewer systems for a private house are less and less often made of such material due to their heavy weight making it difficult to transport and install. Preferred are modern polymeric materials.

• Flexible and durable polypropylene tolerates high drain temperatures, so it is great for internal sewerage. Typically, these pipes are painted gray.
• Polyvinyl chloride is not so resistant to high temperatures, but it has high strength. Orange pipes made of this material are easily visible in the ground, they are used for external sewage, and gray pipes for internal sewage.

Installation of internal sewerage

Do-it-yourself sewerage device in a private house is recommended to start with the installation of internal sewerage and ventilation for it.

When do-it-yourself sewerage is organized in country house, laying pipes, including the riser, can be hidden and open. In the first case, communications are located in walls, niches or boxes. It is mandatory to arrange inspection hatches for inspection and repair. Pipes are attached to the walls with the help of special devices (suspensions, clamps, etc.). During installation, the above principles for selecting the parameters of the system elements are observed (110 mm pipelines for the manifold and toilet outlet, 50 mm for sinks, showers and bathrooms, oblique tees and crosses at the joints), however, experts recommend also installing larger diameter collectors (100- 110 mm) at outlet connections (e.g. washbasins and bathtubs).

Docking of pipes that differ in diameter is carried out using adapters. For each drain point install water seals preventing the penetration of unpleasant odors into the room. Throughout all communications inside the house, special revision tees are installed at each turn of the pipes.

Tip: To reduce the risk of blockages, it is recommended to use not one 90° fitting, but two 45° fittings or three 30° fittings when installing bends.

For those who are important to find the most complete answer to the question of how to conduct sewage in a private house , useful information about ventilation device.

Installation of external sewer pipes shown on video.

The dream came true, you built a house! But, the question arises, how to lay the sewer in your house - correctly, so that it does not become clogged and does not bring any convenience. Properly laid sewerage is the key to success. With the help of this material, you will be able to independently install the sewage system in a private house. Follow our advice.

Stage:1

At this stage, a plan is made. The quantity and features of the required material, tools for installation are calculated. You will need: pipes, adapters, turns, bends, sealant, mortar, 2-meter level. mallet, piece of board, any oil, perforator, shovel, pipe fasteners.

Stage:2

At the beginning of the second stage, we will consider the diameter of the internal pipes for wiring in the house. It is better to take plastic pipes, they are easier to work with. For a two storey building the best option will take a pipe with a diameter of 150 mm for the riser. The riser is assembled from the bottom up, the pipe socket should look up. It is desirable to place it in the bathrooms right in the corner, if there are no specially prepared shafts. The place of chipping under the pipes, in the future it is worth laying with a solution. The pipes themselves can be wrapped with soundproofing material and give an aesthetic appearance.

The riser must be vertical without slopes, it cannot be connected with different pipe diameters. The connecting nodes must be aligned and they are in a horizontal position. Installation of transitions from vertical to horizontal drain, in place of the transition node, a connection with an angle of 45 degrees is used. Then a smaller load will be given from the pressure of the water merging under pressure on the pipes. Pipes with a diameter of 50 mm are carried out from sinks and bathtubs. Pipes leading to the riser should be at a slope of 2-3 degrees per meter of pipe. All pipes are fixed with clamps of a special size.

After the internal wiring is completed, we make a tap from the riser. We take a puncher and make a hole of the desired diameter in the foundation, in our case the diameter will be 150 mm. This will be our zero regarding the plane. After installing the pipe, the gaps between them must be filled with mortar.

Stage:3

After two completed stages of installation of sewer pipes, you should already have a pre-prepared sewage pit, or a septic tank, where human vital substances will fall. It is necessary to lay concrete rings in the pit and seal the bottom. The depth of the pit is calculated based on the norms of water consumption and the use of sanitary appliances. A trench drips from the pit to our sewer outlet from the foundation, 50 cm wide for its convenient use. The depth of the trench is taken from the climatic conditions of the region (from 0.5-3 meters). Bricks, stones should not fall into the trench, there should not be sharp drops in depth. All this is done so as not to damage the sewer pipe. If your trench from the house to the pit is more than 15 meters, then this will lead to frequent blockages. Try to maintain a 3 degree pipe slope towards the pit. Less than three degrees will lead to stagnation of substances in the pipe and further blockage. A slope greater than three degrees will accelerate the water, and solids will remain in the pipes, which will also lead to further blockages and inconveniences. Maintaining a slope of 3 degrees will allow wastewater and solids to move at the same time. The sewer pit is less than 5 meters from the house, then you should not worry about the slope, the larger it is, the better it will be for sewer waste to pass from your house.

Hydraulic calculation and slope of the sewer pipe.

Slope and diameter of sewer pipes in a private house

Remember, when excavating, you must consult with the gas and electric services. It can even save your life! Take care of your health and the health of those around you! Observe safety precautions!

Stage:4

We begin to connect the pipes from the side of the house. It will be easier to dock them by lubricating the rubber bands and sockets with oil, any oil can be, whether it is used motor oil. When laying pipes, try to have fewer turns. Maintain a slope of 3 degrees per meter of pipe. This is best done with the help of a 2-meter level. Here you are on the verge of making a hole in the concrete ring of the sewage pit. Take a puncher and go for it. Once you've patched up the gaps around the pipe in the ring, you can check for water to drain out of the house. If everything works, you can dig trenches with pipes. Pipes can be insulated in case of freezing of the earth. Try to keep the protrusion of the pipe in the well as small as possible, this will give you room to work in this well in the future.

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Do-it-yourself internal sewerage in a private house: regulatory requirements and practical recommendations

Normative documents

These building rules are an updated version of an older document - SNiP 2.04.01-85.

Let's get acquainted with the main requirements of the joint venture related to private construction. Let me comment on some points based on my own experience:

• To divert wastewater to the general sewer, closed gravity pipelines should be used;

Sometimes the terrain forces the use of fecal pumps.
In this case, the pump must be installed in a buffer tank that allows the sewerage system to operate for a limited time in the absence of power supply.

• Pipes are laid in a straight line, without bends. The direction of the gasket can only be changed with the help of fittings;

This fully applies to pipes made of cast iron, PVC and polypropylene.
Polyethylene allows gasket with some bend (up to about 10 angular degrees).
It retains elasticity even at low temperatures, so that cracks and destruction of pipes can not be feared.

• The laying slope must be constant;

This instruction is due to the fact that when the slope changes, the solid fractions of the effluents will linger in areas where it is minimal.
As a result, the likelihood of blockages will increase.

• To connect a horizontal section with a riser, it is strongly recommended to use oblique crosses and corners. An exception is crosses, the branches of which are located in two different planes;

This will greatly simplify cleaning in case of blockage.
A cable or wire, resting against the opposite wall of a straight tee, can fold or move in the opposite direction to the blockage.
The oblique tee will direct the cleaning tool in the direction of the drains.

• Two baths on the same floor can be connected to a common riser only through an oblique cross;

This is necessary so that during a volley discharge of water from one bath, water does not flow into another.
If the tubing is not tightly connected, overflowing the sewer is fraught with flooding of the bathroom.

• For sewerage, it is recommended to use pipes and fittings with a service life of at least 25 years and hydraulic characteristics unchanged throughout the entire service life. Polymer pipes (PVC, polypropylene, polyethylene, etc.) are preferred;
• In the basement, internal sewerage is laid openly. In residential premises, it is allowed to be embedded in the floor, walls, boxes and shafts;

If possible, pipes should be left available for inspection and repair. In my practice, there were blockages that could be cleared only by cutting out a section of the riser.
The most typical case is a large shard of thick glass, standing upright between the walls of a cast-iron pipe.

• The place where the risers pass through the ceiling is sealed with cement mortar for its entire thickness;

AT hardwood floor for the same purpose, mounting foam is used.
The goal is to reduce the propagation of sounds between floors, including through the sewer pipe itself, which under certain conditions serves as an excellent resonator.

• It is not allowed to seal pipes in the ceilings of living rooms and kitchens;
• The internal sewerage scheme in a private house should include ventilation risers (fan pipes) that are connected to the top points of the system. The fan pipe is displayed 20 cm above the roof at a distance of at least 4 meters from the nearest opening window. In this case, the exhaust part of the riser should not be thinner than its waste part;

• Installation of deflectors on the fan pipe is prohibited;

With all due respect to the authors of the joint venture, this requirement is not always worth fulfilling.
The deflector will really limit the draft in calm weather, but it will protect the sewer from wind-borne debris and prevent precipitation from falling into it in a downpour.
For cesspool owners who pay for waste disposal, the latter is quite important.

• On the operated roof, the exhaust riser rises above its level by at least three meters;
• The device of the house sewerage should provide for the possibility of its mechanical cleaning in case of blockages. For this purpose, revisions or tees with plugs are provided. In a private house, they are located at the bottom and top of each riser, at the beginning of each straight section with three or more plumbing fixtures, as well as at corners;

• On long straight sections, revisions or tees for cleaning are located in increments depending on the diameter of the pipeline:

Diameter, mm	Step, m
50	8-12
100 — 150	10-15

• If the level of the sides of the plumbing fixture is below the hatch of the nearest yard sewer well (for example, when located in the basement or basement), the corresponding sewer section is equipped with a sewer gate or an automatic fecal pump;
• All hydraulic devices are equipped with water locks that prevent sewer gases from entering the premises;

Connections of elbows and siphons with sewerage are carefully sealed with rubber sealing sleeves. Otherwise, gases will enter the room through the sockets.

• Several washbasins (up to 6 pieces) and several shower cabins or trays can be equipped with a common siphon with a diameter of 50 m, equipped with a revision or a hatch (cover) for cleaning;
• The recommended installation height of plumbing fixtures in the general case (in the absence of people with limited mobility in the family) is:

Practice

Diameters

For bathtubs, washbasins, sinks, showers, urinals, washing machines and dishwashers the diameter of the attached sewer is 50 mm. For toilet bowls - 110 mm.

These diameters are sufficient for any reasonable number of plumbing fixtures connected in parallel to the sewer, including two bathtubs in one room, subject to simultaneous volley discharge.

Noise

The sound of water flowing in the pipes will hardly give you much pleasure. A number of simple recommendations will help to avoid it.

• If possible, lay horizontal sewer sections in the underground, basement or behind false walls. Risers are best placed in technical or utility rooms;

• Where the riser passes through the living space, cover it with a gypsum plasterboard box or wall panels . It is desirable to fill the box with sound-absorbing material (as a rule, mineral wool is used in this capacity); as an option, the riser can be wrapped with foamed roll insulation;
• Instead of thin-walled PVC or polypropylene pipes, it is desirable to use polyethylene pipes or the so-called silent sewer. Thanks to the mineral filler and the variable density of the layers, it effectively absorbs acoustic vibrations. The price of such pipes, however, is 2-4 times higher than that of conventional PVC, in addition, some manufacturers use their own diameter system that is incompatible with conventional vinyl fittings;
• To fix the riser, use sound-absorbing clamps. equipped with foam rubber gaskets.

Mounting

How to assemble the sewer from plastic pipes with your own hands? Here are the basic installation rules:

• The pipeline is laid with a constant slope of 2 cm / m for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and 3.5 cm / m for a diameter of 50 mm. Any counter slope will become a place of constant blockages: it will collect silt and fat deposits;
• The fixing points of the horizontal pipe should be separated from each other by no more than 8 - 10 pipe diameters. If you increase the step between the clamps, loose sections will sag in a year or two, forming sections with a counterslope;
• Vertical pipes are fastened with clamps under the necks of the sockets. Such a mount will not allow them to move under their own weight.

Pipe sockets and fittings must be directed against the direction of flow of drains. In this case, there will be a minimum number of irregularities inside the pipe, for which large-sized debris (paper, rags, etc.) that has fallen into it can catch on.

The pipe is easiest to cut with a grinder. Any abrasive wheel can be used for cutting. When working indoors, remember to protect your lungs with a gauze bandage: breathing plastic dust is below average pleasure.

After cutting, be sure to clean the inside of the pipe from burrs and chamfer the outside. The burrs will collect sewage-borne hair, fabric fibers, and other debris. The chamfer will greatly facilitate the assembly of the connection.

If the pipe enters the socket with great effort, lubricate it liquid soap or any other water based lubricant. Do not use engine oil or other fuels for lubrication: they will cause the seals to crack.

With hidden laying (in boxes and false walls), it is better to assemble connections on silicone sealant. Even if the seals lose their elasticity, it will not allow the socket to leak.

Ventilation

It is really necessary. Instead of lengthy discussions about the movement of sewer gases in pipes, I will simply share own experience.

During the construction of the second floor, I brought the sewer to the septic tank without installation, based on the fact that with a system height of only 4 meters, there will be no significant draft in it. In addition, all connections of plumbing fixtures with sockets were carefully sealed.

It was not there: after some time, a characteristic sewer smell appeared in the attic toilet. As it turned out, the following happened:

1. When flushing in the toilet, the flow of water rushed down the riser, at some point blocking the entire lumen of the pipe;
2. The rarefaction arising at the same time in the upper part of the riser sucked water out of the bath siphon, disrupting the operation of the water seal;
3. The lack of water in the siphon opened the way for the aromas of the septic tank to the bathroom.

The problem was quite predictably solved by installing a vent pipe at the top of the sewer.

Heating

In regions with a warm climate, open laying of sewerage sites is often practiced. So, in the Crimea, with its average January temperature of + 3C, you can often find sewer pipes laid between the house and the well along the surface of the soil. The laying of pipes providing runoff from the second floor is also practiced along the facade.

Having looked at other people's buildings, I also laid a section of the internal sewerage to the septic tank along the facade: I didn’t want to spoil the ceiling and the repaired first floor with a riser.

Alas, there are frosts in the warm climate zone. In the very first winter, the operation of the in-house sewerage system showed that it was impossible to do without insulation at all: already at -10C, the drains began to freeze.

The problem was solved by installing a self-regulating. It is a conductive matrix that increases resistance when heated and decreases when cooled. As a result, the lower the temperature, the greater the heat transfer, the more the pipe on which the cable is fixed heats up.

Installation was done like this:

• The cable is glued to the bottom of the pipe with aluminum tape. reflecting infrared radiation, it noticeably reduces untargeted heat losses;
• Since aluminum tape is extremely fragile, the cable had to be additionally fixed with polyethylene ties.

Several turns of cable are also used to heat the open septic tank.
The main requirement for laying is that the termination and heat shrink between the cable and the cold end must be left outside the drain tank.
They are aggressive and destroy the heat shrink tube in a year or two of operation, but the vinyl insulation of the cable perfectly tolerates prolonged contact with a chemically active environment.

Conclusion

As you can see, sewer installation is not extremely difficult. You can learn more about it by watching the video in this article. Please share your own experience in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

A separate section of the design of engineering communications is the planning of the sewer system. Cottage owners and country houses often you have to independently draw up a diagram and install equipment, so knowing the nuances of organizing work is simply necessary.

The efficiency of the system largely depends on whether the sewerage system in a private house is properly installed - the internal pipe system and the equipment connected to them. For competent design, it is important to take into account everything: from the choice of components to the material for the manufacture of individual elements. And we will tell you how to do it right.

Unlike electric, gas, water supply systems, which are installed in accordance with documentation certified by certain authorities, it is allowed to equip sewers on their own land and in the house without permits.

However, one cannot do without a project, as it will insure against errors associated with violation of generally accepted requirements.

For example, one of the frequent violations is non-compliance with the boundaries of the sanitary zone when installing drain pit. The supply and drain systems must not come into contact with each other.

The internal wiring device is often associated with errors in the organization of ventilation, the wrong choice of pipe diameter or angle of inclination.

The construction of an axonometric scheme is usually done by specialists. They also make hydraulic calculations of the internal network and the highway located on the outside of the building. Now there are more interesting option– creation of a sewerage model in 3D format.

3D modeling programs allow you to create an accurate and complete project that simplifies the selection of pipes, fittings, fasteners, and installation methods as much as possible.

For a project, they turn to specialists when they want to reduce risks. But there is another option - to study sanitary and technical standards, get acquainted with the internal wiring diagrams, learn how to understand the quality of plumbing equipment and draw up a project on your own.

Placement of important system nodes

Peculiarity autonomous sewerage in that the principles of its arrangement depend on each component in the overall system.

For example, the criterion for choosing a storage tank for wastewater is not only the number of people living in the cottage, but also the number of connected sources for draining technical and domestic water - from the house, garage, bathhouse, summer kitchen.

An approximate diagram of the interaction of internal and external sewerage systems with the obligatory installation of a fan riser. The cleaning function is performed by a factory-made septic tank

According to the place and main functions, sewerage is divided into 3 categories:

• - a network of pipelines from plumbing equipment to the exit outside, outside the walls of the house;
• outdoor- highway from buildings (houses, baths) to treatment equipment;
• cleaning systems-, storage tanks, wells, settling tanks, biological treatment plants.

When considering the layout of the internal sewerage wiring in the house, you need to take into account the location of the external main and cleaning (accumulative) equipment.

Work planning and scheme selection

The installation of sewer pipes is usually carried out together with the installation of a water pipe, respectively, and it is better to design these two systems together.

If we summarize all the documents that make up the project and try to follow the rules, we get the following list:

1. General data - description and conditions for the installation of water supply and sanitation systems based on regulatory documents.
2. Explication of the premises (explanation to the diagram) indicating wet areas and the method of their waterproofing.
3. Calculation of volumes of water consumption and wastewater disposal, taking into account the norms.
4. Floor plan of the location of the water supply and axonometric diagram.
5. Floor plan of the sewer.
6. Specification - a listing of all constituent elements with an indication of the quantity or footage.

You can refuse to install additional ventilation equipment, but on condition that private house no higher than 2 floors, and the load on the sewer network is minimal.

If a lot of people live in the building, the number of bathrooms is more than 2, the effluents are discharged to the treatment plant, then the installation of a fan pipe is mandatory. Thanks to her, the atmosphere in the house will be healthy, and the water from the water seals will not disappear anywhere due to the pressure difference in the network.

Features of wiring in a multi-storey building

The number of risers due to the presence of the 2nd or 3rd floors does not increase, but the connection scheme becomes more complicated, since taps are present on all floors. For multi-storey buildings, there is a “code” set out in the SNiP documents.