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Furniture varnishing. Lacquered furniture. The main types of materials

Give any wooden furniture original appearance will help competent varnishing. Varnishing - varnishing is one of the most common methods of finishing both painted and unpainted surfaces. individual parts, knots and finished wood products.

Suitable for any wood. It is widely used in the production of inexpensive furniture, arts and crafts, as well as household items and various crafts. Before varnishing, the surface of the product is cleaned of dust and lint, which, being invisible, are clearly visible under the varnish film, especially with side lighting. Only well-dried wood can be varnished; high humidity can cause cracking of the varnish coating. As a rule, the varnish is applied in several layers. Before applying each subsequent layer, an exposure is made so that the previous layer is completely dry, after which the surface is polished. Reducing the drying time reduces the gloss of the lacquer.

To finish wooden products, alcohol, oil and nitrocellulose varnishes (nitro-lacquers), colored (from red to black), etc. are used. colorless (a thin film of such varnish is practically colorless, does not cover the natural pattern of wood and does not change the color of wood or paint coating, although, being in a glass jar, this varnish has a light yellow tint).

In carpentry, alcohol-based varnishes based on shellac and rosin are most often used. Alcohol-based varnish dries quickly, but does not resist moisture well. Alcohol varnish is best applied with a cotton swab wrapped in linen, but can also be applied with a brush, especially on small and profile parts. When using a tampon, the varnish is poured into the tampon in small portions so that its working surface, the sole, is slightly soaked. Then, with light pressure, the swab is quickly swept over the surface of the product (along the wood fibers) in only one direction, leaving a strip of varnish (las) on the surface. Each next las is carried out so that it only touches the edge of the previous varnish. As the varnish decreases, the pressure on the swab is increased. In places where the lacquers overlap, the lacquer layer is thicker, but usually it quickly spreads and levels out. If you use too thick varnish, the hairs become noticeable. Excess varnish, formed on the edges and ends of the product, is removed with the same swab. With a brush, the varnish is also applied in one pass, usually along the wood fibers (especially for the first time).

As a rule, an alcohol varnish coating is made three-layer; mosaic surfaces made of various types of wood are covered at least 4 times. The first coating dries (stops sticking to the fingers) in 1-2 minutes, for subsequent layers, the drying time increases to 40-60 minutes. At home, it is extremely difficult to ensure a high quality coating with alcohol varnish, since it is almost impossible to quickly manually apply a thin, even layer of varnish on a large surface.

Compared to alcohol-based oil varnishes, they are less susceptible to the harmful effects of moisture and light, give the surface more shine, but dry more slowly (from 24 to 48 hours). At long-term storage oil varnishes thicken and before use they are diluted with the oil on which they are prepared, or with turpentine. Oil varnish is applied to the surface of the product with a hard brush or spray. In the first case, light shading with a brush across and along the wood fibers is allowed for a more even distribution of varnish over the surface. Usually, the product is covered with oil varnish 3 times, in order to obtain more High Quality- 5-6 times. The first layer (the thickest) is applied with a thick varnish with shading. Before the second coating, the dried layer is sanded with a fine-grained sandpaper along the wood fibers until the surface becomes completely matte. The last (thinnest) layer is applied with diluted varnish strictly along the fibers without shading.

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In order for the surface to be mirror-smooth, it is polished with a linen swab slightly moistened with alcohol, and along the sole - with oil (this operation is called polishing). The polishing is carried out with quick circular movements so that one trace of the tampon partially overlaps the other and there are no dry spots left. The dried tampon is again moistened with alcohol and oil. The polishing is repeated at short intervals 2-3 times, after which the remaining oil is removed from the surface with a soft cloth and the product is allowed to dry.

Nitro-lacquer coatings are soluble (reversible), colorless, dry quickly (usually in 15-30 minutes), but have limited water resistance. Nitrolacquer is best applied by spraying, but can be applied with a swab or brush if the surface to be varnished is small.

The main difficulty in working with a swab or brush is that the entire surface of the product must be covered with nitro-lacquer in one pass. Re-varnishing is unacceptable, because this softens or even completely dissolves the previously applied and already dried layer of varnish.

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By spraying, 2-3 layers of nitro varnish can be applied (with intermediate sanding). Small products are simply dipped for a few seconds in a jar of varnish, then, having been removed, the excess varnish is allowed to drain and the product is hung to dry.

First you need to decide what kind of varnish you need to process the product. Since the product can be used both indoors and outdoors, various varnishes are produced accordingly. After buying a varnish, you must carefully read the instructions for use, then to decide how to apply the varnish on the surface. The first layer of varnish should be thin.

It is better to start with the edges, then work on the surfaces. Lacquer should be applied in uniform stripes, parallel to each other. After the first layer of varnish has dried, the wood fibers will invariably rise again, to remove them, use sanding paper No. 220 or No. 240. This process is called intermediate grinding and is necessary to achieve an almost completely smooth surface. Thus, it is applied required amount layers of varnish to achieve the desired result.

Before opening the surface with varnish, it must be sanded. All movements must be made without effort and along the fibers, because any transverse scratch will be very noticeable after varnishing. For the same purpose, after sanding, the wood must be vacuumed to remove microscopic dust from it.

Lacquer should be applied with a brush or swab. Professionals advise using a tampon. It does not need to be dipped in varnish. It will be correct to pour the varnish inside the swab. In order to evenly apply the varnish, you can use a sprayer. Using this method, the varnish will be more evenly distributed over the surface. In the role of a compressor, you can use a vacuum cleaner.

Lacquer can only open a completely clean and dry wooden surface. The varnish must be applied in several visits after a certain period of time. If you use nitro varnish, apply it at intervals of 5-15 minutes.

If, as a result of staining, you want to get a dark color of wood, the intervals between applying varnish should be increased from several hours to a day. The number of layers of varnish is also important. For example, 4-5 layers will be enough to finish the doors.

If you are using a nitrocellulose or alcohol varnish, the room must be well ventilated, and if the product can be taken out, generally outdoors.

You need to work with gloves, because if the varnish gets on the skin, irritation may occur. To avoid this, you can smear your hands with Vaseline and wipe dry. It forms a protective layer on the skin. It is necessary to apply varnish with wide strokes, avoiding passes several times in one place. At the end of the work, excess varnish must be removed. Sanding layers of lacquer is possible only when no trace remains when pressing on the lacquer. For grinding the surface, it is better to use a fine sandpaper with purified kerosene. The first and second layers of varnish can not be sanded. · .

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The popularity of natural interiors is explained by their natural beauty and complete harmlessness to human health.

An integral part of this design of dwellings is wooden furniture: if it is not additionally covered with a protective layer of paint or furniture varnish, it will quickly become cracked and deformed. The latter finish is more preferable, as it allows you to preserve (and sometimes emphasize) the natural beauty of the tree.

purpose

Furniture varnish is a composition of a film-forming type, intended for processing wooden bases. It is designed to perform the following tasks:

protect surfaces from mechanical stress;
do wooden crafts glossy (shiny) or matte;
emphasize the natural beauty of wood (especially valuable species);
create an impenetrable barrier to moisture, due to which the wood can dry out or swell;
protect against biological influences (fungus or harmful insects);
increase the service life of expensive wood furniture.

Varnishes for wooden furniture can be slightly tinted by adding pigment, or you can use a transparent version. They must be applied in several layers to provide reliable protection.

The main varieties depending on the effect

Furniture varnish for wood is classified according to a number of criteria. The first of these is the effect that is imparted to the treated surface. According to this criterion, glossy, matte, colored and transparent varieties of the material can be distinguished.

A feature of a glossy or semi-gloss finish is a special shine and highlighting of the wood structure. This finish lasts a very long time, but it does not mask the flaws of the base well. It is recommended to use in gloomy, shaded rooms to optimize the atmosphere.

If the task of finishing is to emphasize the naturalness of wooden furniture, it is recommended to use matte or semi-matt varnish. Before varnishing, the base must be carefully sanded. This type of finish hides surface defects well and is easy to clean.

The most common type of varnish for wooden furniture is a transparent substance. Most often it is used for processing valuable wood species (protection from moisture and other harmful effects).

The color composition is used for varnishing inexpensive wood species (pine, linden, birch), contributing to an increase in the contrast of their structure. Great option for those cases when it is necessary to update the furniture by creating on its surface protective film. Colored varnishes are on sale in a wide range of color scheme, therefore, with the choice of a suitable shade of problems usually does not arise.

Craquelure varnish helps to simulate decorative aging with the appearance of cracks. Best of all, furniture items with a craquelure effect look in retro and Provence interior styles.

Division by composition

The second important criterion for the classification of furniture varnishes is their chemical composition.

Oil

In the old days, the basis of this group of materials was natural resin. Later it was replaced with natural oil and artificial additives. Oil varnishes are characterized by the presence of significant color diversity. Matte furniture varnishing is especially beautiful.

Alkyd

With the help of alkyd varnish, you can create a durable and transparent moisture-resistant coating on the surface of the furniture. The substance is made on the basis of alkyd resins and organic solvents. The applied layer dries for a long time, almost three days (although there are also quick-drying modifications with a drying time of no more than 24 hours). The application tool is usually a roller or spray gun.

Water based

Highly convenient option for wood finishing - water-based furniture varnish. One of the varieties of this line of materials is acrylic varnish, after application of which a strong film appears. The finish hardens gradually as the water evaporates. Water-based varnishes do not exude unpleasant odors, being absolutely harmless to human health. This is the best option for wooden furniture that will stand in the children's room.

The undoubted advantages of these materials include a good drying rate and fire safety (the substance does not burn at all). The coating has a weighty weakness― the furniture varnished thus does not receive due protection against moisture. For this reason, it is recommended to treat wooden products installed in dry rooms with water-based varnishes.

alcohol

The main components here are alcohol and natural resins. After applying alcohol varnish, a durable shiny coating is formed. Like water, these materials are rather weakly resistant to moisture. Most often these furniture varnishes are used to coat polished bases.

polyurethane

Very strong and wear-resistant material, suitable for processing any wooden furniture, outdoors or indoors. Due to the outstanding performance, even floors are covered with polyurethane varnish. Although such a finish costs a pretty penny, however, the invested finances are fully compensated due to the excellent operational and decorative characteristics.

Nitrolac

Nitro-varnishes contain resins, colloxylin, plasticizers and solvents. After application, a very durable layer is formed on the surface of the tree, which dries in about 3-4 hours. Due to the volatile toxins contained in the material, work is only allowed with a respirator and gloves. This varnish can be used for garden furniture, which will stand on the street, for benches,.

How to choose an unscented varnish

When determining which varnish is best for wood furniture, it is recommended to pay attention to the most harmless compounds that do not have bad smell. This is not so easy to do, because materials based on organic solvents usually smell very strongly. Lack of durable and moisture resistant alkyd compounds is their high toxicity. Similar characteristics are also inherent in nitrocellulose quick-drying varnishes.

Polyurethane materials, despite the popularity and breadth of application, also contain toxic solvents. The best option odorless furniture varnish - water-based acrylic coating. It has practically no restrictions on its use, differing in complete harmlessness, durability, fire safety and high decorative characteristics. Wood products processed with it retain their naturalness and natural texture.

Aerosol type formulations

As a rule, varnishes for furniture require additional dilution before use. To facilitate the work of coatings manufacturers, a special line of materials in the form of a spray has been developed. The substance in the factory is poured into sealed cans, from where it is subsequently sprayed by aerosol. This saves time for the preparation of the composition and finances for the purchase necessary tools(brushes, rollers).

For furniture varnish in spray cans, a very economical consumption is typical. In this case, the layer is uniform, without gaps and smudges. Spray polishes usually dry an order of magnitude faster than regular canned materials. The spray is well suited for varnishing both straight and hard-to-reach areas of wood furniture. Similar packaging is found at any point of sale. building materials. Such compositions are especially convenient for the restoration of antique furniture (carved tables, chairs, chests of drawers).

To emphasize the merits of the headset, make the cabinet luxuriously glossy, and protect the table from minor mechanical damage, experts use this type finishing works like varnishing furniture. The modern construction market allows you to choose the best option for price, quality and appearance.

Lacquering furniture will never go out of style. A wooden set rarely does without such a finish. And this is not a forced measure, but the choice of the majority of customers. Regardless of the type, varnish has obvious advantages. As a result, their combination gives an excellent result, which will not only create comfort, but also guarantee the absence of unnecessary expenses:

lacquered finish gives any furniture a presentable look, adds luxury;
the ability to choose the appropriate color, which will differ in saturation and brightness;
long-term protection against the effects of various external factors- temperature fluctuations, high humidity, contact with sharp objects;
furniture varnishing can be used during restoration work, which will return old furniture former, solid appearance;
ease of coating makes it possible to carry out surface repairs of furniture on their own.

The main types of varnishes

Regardless of whether the work is planned to be carried out independently or specialists will be invited to provide professional construction assistance, everyone should understand the main types of varnish. They differ in the structure of the material, the method of application and the purpose of application:

polyurethane varnish is a universal type, successfully used not only in the furniture industry, but also for painting concrete, metal, stone slabs, etc. It is highly resistant to impacts, scuffs, scratches. Dries very quickly. Retains its original appearance for many years;
Acrylic lacquer is an environmentally friendly material that is practically odorless. Easy to apply, dries quickly. Ideal in combination with polyurethane - in such a combination it has all the necessary qualities for furniture coating;
alcohol varnish - is used much less often for varnishing furniture, as it is rather difficult to apply over a large area, stripes inevitably remain. In addition, it is characterized by low resistance to moisture;
oil varnish - more suitable for finishing floor covering, for furniture it is preferable to use other types.

Furniture varnishing methods

In order for furniture varnishing to give the desired effect at the end of the work, and the coating itself to be of high quality and durable, several important nuances. The application of paintwork always begins with sanding the surface and removing the old layer of varnish or paint.

Then the dust is carefully eliminated, and a primer layer is applied. After it dries, the furniture is varnished. The number of layers depends on the preferences of the furniture owner. The larger the layer, the richer the color and better protection However, this coating will take longer to dry.

Specialists apply varnish in three different ways: brush, roller and spray. The roller is used when painting a flat surface of a large area, while with a brush you can paint over the most inaccessible places. But the best way considered to be an atomizer. It not only evenly distributes the paint, but also allows you to accurately paint even the smallest elements. Judging by the quality, the latter option is the most preferable.

Lacquered furniture was popular, is and will be. It always looks solid, involves easy maintenance and ensures long-term operation of furniture.

Restoration of lacquered furniture is the best solution if there are scratches or cracks on the surface. Only furniture made of wood can be upgraded. Chipboard products become unusable after removing the paintwork from them.

Fixing minor defects

No matter how carefully the furniture is handled, scuffs, scratches, stains and other minor defects occur during its operation. In this case, the owners have a question about how to update the furniture with their own hands. There are many ways to restore the varnish coating:

When a polished surface loses its luster or small spots, you should use any wood care product that contains orange oil. For uniform application, use a spray gun. Then the product is evenly rubbed over the surface with a cotton rag.
Another way to remove stains is to use a special retouching marker, denatured alcohol and wax. First, the surface is degreased with a weak solution detergent for dishes. When the moisture dries, the swab is moistened with alcohol and the spots are rubbed. If the scratch is deep, the varnish will not recover its color. In this case, a marker is used. To give shine, the surface is waxed and rubbed with a rag.
If a small scratches form irregularities, it is better to clean them with a nail file. It allows you to work more delicately in comparison with sandpaper.
When the wood swells from moisture that has fallen on it, you need to mix salt with olive oil and rub the problem area. Leave the mixture for half an hour on the damaged area. Salt absorbs moisture, and olive gives elasticity to the fibers. After drying, the gruel is removed, waxed and polished.
If furniture with chips is to be restored, wood putty is used. It is better to choose the color on the spot by buying a light product and adding color to it. The cleavage site and the adjacent surface are smeared. When the putty dries, it is polished with fine-grained sandpaper.

Refresh polish on old furniture is allowed using the following mixtures:

2 parts turpentine, 2 parts linseed oil, 1 part of vinegar is mixed and applied with a swab to defects or scuffs.
25 parts of turpentine, 15 parts of alcohol, 1 part of a 10% soap solution, 5 parts of drying oil, 4 parts of shellac and 45 parts of water are thoroughly mixed. Use the product cold. It is best to apply the mixture with a flannel rag.

Significant varnish damage

When the furniture has significant damage, the question arises of how to remove the old varnish from wooden surface. The reasons may be:

cracking of the coating;
a large number of minor damage that spoil appearance;
deep cracks, etc.

To remove old varnish from furniture, special chemicals are used or the coating is removed mechanically.

The first option is preferable because it removes the varnish without damaging the wood. Mechanical action is resorted to in cases where deep chips and cracks form on the surface.

After removing the old varnish and restoration work, the furniture must be re-coated with a layer of protective agent. It should be chosen correctly so as not to spoil the appearance of the tree.

To restore the paintwork, the following materials are used:

shellac polish;
nitrocellulose varnish;
pentaphthalic varnish.

The first material allows you to emphasize the texture of wood, it gives an original shade to the surface. Its consistency is similar to water. For restoration, 40-60 layers are applied to the tree. This allows for exceptional color depth.

Nitrocellulose varnish is used for the restoration of large surfaces. It is applied using a special sprayer, which evenly distributes the product over the surface at high speed. Otherwise, the drops will solidify each separately. Application with simple sprayers will result in air bubbles.

To cover furniture with pentaphthalic varnish, you do not need to have special tools or follow special techniques. It does this remedy optimal for home use. The minimum number of layers is four. To obtain a semi-matte surface, a swab is used. A glossy effect is achieved with a brush and finishing sanding.

Choosing a wash

An inexperienced user may be faced with the question of how to remove the varnish of old furniture. To completely remove the lacquer coating, use a wash. It is a special chemical composition designed to soften and remove paint.

When choosing, you need to pay attention to the consistency of the wash. When it is planned to clean horizontal surfaces, use a liquid agent. To remove varnish from vertical parts, choose a gel or paste remover. If you are cleaning a large area, you should take a powdered product, because it lasts longer.

Washing technology

To remove old varnish from furniture at home, tools and materials are needed:

flush;
brush;
rubber gloves;
putty knife;
film.

Work should be carried out outdoors, using personal protective equipment. chemical agent evenly applied with a brush over the entire surface. Particular attention should be paid to deep areas of damage. The furniture is then wrapped in plastic wrap to enhance the effect. Withstand the time indicated on the package, remove the film and use a non-sharp spatula to remove the old layer of varnish.

At the end, the remains of the wash and varnish are removed with water. If necessary, after drying the surface, proceed to mechanical cleaning with sandpaper. After roughing, the furniture is sanded with fine-grained paper to remove all irregularities.

The procedure for applying a new paintwork

Not everyone knows how to varnish furniture. First, the surface should be primed to close the micropores in the wood. This will help reduce varnish consumption. It can be primed with liquid wax or special means. The following compositions are also used:

beeswax dissolved in turpentine;
a mixture of wood powder and PVA glue;
sifted chalk mixed with water with the addition of color.

The primer is applied with a brush, and when the material dries, it is polished again. Then proceed to varnishing. This process is carried out with a brush, the movements should be smooth in order to evenly distribute the varnish over the surface.

Since in the process of repair and restoration of the varnish coating, various means, then, depending on the type of substance chosen, the number of layers indicated in the instructions is required. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried. In the end, you must definitely use polishing, you can use ready-made products or made yourself.

It was this kind of interior - modern, but with elements of classics and art deco - that the customers, a married couple, whose children have already grown up and study abroad, asked to design. Three-room apartment with an area of 152 m 2 is located in residential complex"Writer" in Khamovniki. By the beginning of the repair, it was a concrete box, so all the work had to start literally from scratch. The most difficult task was to design and place here three bathrooms - an indispensable wish of the customers: one guest and one for each room.

The design of the living room is dominated by textured materials: velvet upholstery, silk wallpaper and carpet, lacquered furniture. Sofa, EJ Viktor

In the center of the apartment there is a spacious kitchen-living room with an area of 55 m 2 . On a Nepalese silk carpet self made there is a cozy sofa with flanked table lamps with brass bases. Large floor-to-ceiling French windows let plenty of daylight into the room, reflecting off the silk wallpaper. The giant, ceiling-high painting was specially created for this interior by American artist Jill Pumpelly.

In the kitchen area, the compositional center is a luxurious lacquered table, which stands out favorably on the parquet made of exotic Irokko wood. Kitchen furniture with laconic facades covered with fine wood veneer is made to order by Russian cabinetmakers.

Thanks to the rosewood veneer on the upper fronts, the kitchen does not look too functional and does not dissonate with the living room decor.

The cozy bedroom is designed in coffee tones. Mirrors are installed on both sides of the bed with a velvet headboard, which visually enlarges the space of a relatively small room. Opposite the bed is a chest of drawers with a giant plate. The large wall-to-wall built-in wardrobe is made from the same wood as the kitchen furniture. Its doors open with a light touch.

Thanks to the laconic facades, the wardrobe in the bedroom looks like a wall finished with wood paneling. Chest of drawers and bedside tables, Century Furniture. Armchair, Edward Farell

It also serves as a bedroom for the children when they come on vacation. A classic atmosphere has been created here: a cozy sofa on a silk Nepalese carpet, a lot of old paintings on the wall, an antique desk and the lamp, like the paintings, were bought at an auction in Brussels. Some of the paintings were purchased at the Moscow Antique Salon.

In the office daylight plays on wallpaper made of natural silk. Wallpaper, Innovations