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Adjustable floor system. Adjustable floors. Setting the horizon level with adjustable logs

Adjustable log supports are one of the most simple ways subfloor leveling. Thanks to this technology, it is possible to avoid "wet" work associated with pouring the screed. This allows you to lay the top coat on the subfloor immediately after installing the wooden lathing of logs and chipboards. The article will discuss the main types of supports suitable for adjusting the height of floor beams, as well as the features of their application.

Design features of adjustable logs

To level the subfloor, not so long ago they began to use not only screeds, but also logs on adjustable supports. What is the working principle of this design? Anchor devices with a screw mechanism are attached to the base material, which can be adjusted in height. After that, the floor beams are set so as to achieve the maximum horizontality of the wooden crate.

In the process of leveling floors, supports of various types and materials can be used. They can be attached to the following types of bases:

wooden beams;
concrete plates;
cement screeds;
reinforced concrete monolith.

Do-it-yourself installation of such systems is undesirable, since it involves precise adjustment of the beams in height. A similar effect can only be achieved with the help of professional devices. The unevenness of the floor leads to a violation of the geometry of the finish coating, which is fraught with its deformation.

Benefits of adjustable floors

Compared to other floor leveling methods, lags that can be varied in height have a number of advantages, namely:

This technology eliminates the need for "wet" technical processes associated with pouring self-leveling and cement-sand screeds;
Wooden structures weigh less in comparison with concrete screeds, therefore they can be installed on bases with a low bearing capacity;
After preparing the floors using this technology, almost any type of finishing coating can be applied to the rough base;
The space under the joists, formed with the help of screw anchors, provides sufficient ventilation of the floor, which prevents the accumulation of condensate;
Do-it-yourself installation of adjustable supports takes only a few days. While any cement screed dries for at least 3 weeks;
The space under the floor can be used for laying the necessary communications;
In the process of leveling the floors, the level of the base can be raised by 15-20 cm if necessary;
Laying of finishing materials can be carried out without mounting any additional substrates;
The air layer under the lags provides additional heat and waterproofing of the base.

Types of adjustable structures

When arranging the floor with your own hands, you can use several different designs with adjustable lags. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Among the most popular "jacking" systems include:

Set of threaded plastic posts and fasteners for concrete. AT this case a thread is cut in the beams with their own hands, into which hollow racks are inserted. If necessary, they can be screwed to the desired depth;
Set of fasteners for concrete and plastic bushings. Unlike the previous design, finished bushings with internal rather than external threads are mounted in through holes in the beams, which are additionally fixed with self-tapping screws;
A set of logs, bushings and bolts-racks. In this floor leveling system, the bolts have tapered through holes into which self-tapping screws or other fasteners are inserted to securely connect to concrete.

To buy a quality kit, first of all, you need to check the quality of the supports themselves. The thread on them should be smooth without any damage. Otherwise, it will not be possible to set the desired lag height, which is fraught with distortions.

Plastic metal supports

The arrangement of the subfloor with the help of "jacking" systems involves the use of special threaded supports. They are conventionally divided into two broad categories:

Metal. They are made of galvanized steel, so they are practically not subject to corrosion. Such anchor devices are able to withstand very heavy loads and therefore are used in the arrangement of commercial premises. The only, but significant drawback of such supports is "assistance" in the destruction of the concrete base. Metal pins “dig into” the base over time, which leads to cracking;
Plastic. Unlike metal racks, they are less durable, but completely unaffected by moisture. In the case of installation of rack-bolts with a small pitch, they can withstand loads of more than 300 kg per m 2 of coating. Plastic supports practically do not create a load on concrete floors and therefore do not contribute to their destruction.

Types of supports by type of construction

What types of racks for leveling the floor with a log are best to use? When arranging "jacking" wooden crates can be used different types anchor devices, namely:

Hairpins. In the process of finishing the subfloor, threaded studs are attached to the base. Two adjustable "plates" are fixed on them, between which there is a beam. By rotating the lower plate, you can adjust the beam in height, and the upper one is fixed to make the structure more rigid;
corners. Metal U-shaped profiles are initially fixed with the base down on the concrete floor. Each side of the corner contains two or three rows of through holes spaced from each other with a small step. After setting the desired level, the logs are fixed in the corners at the desired height;
Racks with automatic height adjustment. Plastic racks with automatic adjustment have a jacking mechanism. Thanks to them, it is possible to carry out automatic correction of the lag in height with a slope of 0 to 5 degrees.

Prices for professional supports

Manufacturers offer a lot of different types of adjustable racks. And it is not always clear why the price of one or another model of supports is formed, when visually some of them are very similar. To buy really high-quality anchor devices, consider the differences between budget and professional series products:

Budget supports. The price of screw anchors of this series varies from 1 to 3 dollars per piece. The low cost is not due to the most best quality the material from which the rack bolts are made, as well as their fragility;
Professional supports. Visually, professional screw racks are similar to budget ones, but they are made of special plastic. It has heat and frost resistance, as well as greater strength. Some of them are equipped with a self-regulation system, so that the procedure for leveling the floors takes a minimum of time. The price of professional supports ranges from 4 to 8 dollars apiece.

How to make screw supports?

To equip floors with adjustable beams, it is not necessary to buy expensive rack bolts. Knowing already some of the features of the system that were discussed above, it will not be difficult to make such devices on your own. To assemble adjustable anchors, you will need:

nuts;
metal plates;
hairpins;
driven anchors;
washers.

Assembling the screw support for leveling the floor:

First of all, it is necessary to fix the metal plate on the stud with a powerful bolt and a suitable nut;
With the help of a nut, the height of the beams will be adjusted in the future;
After adjustment, the logs are fixed with another nut;
So that the top nut does not interfere with the process of laying the finish coating, grooves are made on the wooden beams to completely mask it.

Floor plates with adjustable legs
Disadvantages of adjustable floors
Characteristics regulated ground on logs
Choice of regulated soil
Floor types with adjustable brackets
Floor construction with adjustable flags
Floor coverings with adjustable feet
Installation Tips for Adjustable Leg Structures

Contemporary floor options include adjustable floors in the latest design.

The day system, mounted on mobile brackets, makes the floor surface perfectly level with minimal physical effort.

Manufacturers produce several versions of so-called "adjustable floors", depending on the purpose of a particular space, the calculated height of the floor covering and the state of the substrate.

If it is necessary to raise the floor level to the desired height so that various utilities can be placed under its surface, a DNT structure with adjustable footrests can be installed. They ensure not only perfect homogeneity of the floor coverings of all materials, but also allow the installation of the frame when the floors between the floor in the house are wooden elements.

The upper form is capable of lifting the cover to a height of 5 centimeters or more, depending on the cross-section of the logs and the dimensions having polymer screws. The system can be attached to a wood or cement floor or other type of foundation.

When it is necessary to solve the problem of leveling rough ground without losing the height of space, the adjustable bottom structure on the plates can be adjusted.

It is used to prepare the substrate for laying, such as laminate or parquet panels, provided that the difference in height does not exceed 2 mm with 2 linear meters. The maximum amount of lifting of the floor covering in this case does not exceed 5 centimeters, which corresponds to the thickness of a standard concrete screed.

The parameters of the adjustable DNT structures allow for a short time to create a strong and durable floor, characterized by excellent thermal and sound insulation of the room. In this case, there is no need to deal with dusty and wet processes, as in the case of cement sand installation. The costs of a DNT system do not exceed those of traditional leveling options such as semi-dry or concrete screeds and Knauff flooring.

If the soil rises 5 centimeters or more, you can save a large number of when preparing a rough base for finishing.

Disadvantages of adjustable floors

As for the shortcomings of this project, they may arise if the requirements for proper work were not met during installation.

With high-quality installation, DNT adjustable floors become a reliable and durable base for all prefabricated floor materials. It will be not only an opportunity to move on foot, but also to go by car.

If the assembly of the DNT system fails or the type of fasteners for the adjustable flag is incorrect, the soil will become unusable within a short period of time.

Characteristics of regulated ground on logs

The structural solution of such floors has the following characteristics:

It is possible to create adjustable floors on logs with your own hands without experienced craftsmen.
How to make adjustable floors

You just need to buy quality materials and supplies of some tools.
Floors will not exceed one or two days. In exchange for dry concrete, it will take about a month.
The adaptive design allows, if necessary, to install engineering communications in a technologically free space.
This allows you to save space and at the same time impermeable floor coverings.
By using regulated system can significantly increase the sound insulation in the room, so in last years such floors were installed not only in residential buildings, but also in recording studios and concert halls.
Just weigh similar structures to use them successfully in places where they are poorly covered, such as in private homes or on balconies.
In the process of adjusting adjustable floors, there is almost no work associated with dust and dirt.
That is why this option is the ideal solution for areas where cleanliness is required.
As shown in the figure, the adjustable floor system is capable of carrying a load of about 2.5 tons per square meter, which means it can be installed in offices for various purposes— office, residential, warehouse, commercial.

Choice of regulated soil

While adjustable structures have many benefits, many property owners are hesitant to install them during renovations.

if the rough ground is difficult or impossible to settle, because it has great differences and shortcomings;
when leveling the substrate, for many technical reasons, you cannot use materials with a high weight;
If the flooring is to be created with different heights;
when engineering communications should be placed underground;
if there is a need for additional noise and thermal insulation.

Floor types with adjustable brackets

On the modern market Consumers are offered two types of flooring:

Structure containing adjustable floor coverings;
floor systems with adjustable brackets.

The main difference between these varieties is the difference in height.

When installing systems on logs, the amount of lift is 5 centimeters or more. As for the adjustable design on the plates, it can be raised by a maximum of 3 centimeters.

Installation work related to the installation of adjustable systems on logs and boards is carried out using a similar technology that allows you to do it yourself.

Floor construction with adjustable flags

The seals for them are made from planned beams.

The size wooden elements usually does not exceed 50 × 50 centimeters. First you need to prepare tools and building materials.

To install the floor, you need:

lags behind the rods;
level;
polymer screws;
nails with dowels;
a hammer;
drilling.

At the first stage, preparatory work is carried out:

Clean the base.
If necessary, build engineering communications.
Tighten the wood screws. If there are threaded holes on the rods in them, the screw is screwed into the stand for adjustable logs.
Otherwise, they must run independently. At least 5 holes must be made at a distance of 2 meters. This simple operation is performed by drilling with an extended top. To make the installation rigid, it is necessary to drill a little less than the diameter of the bolt.
After hand tightening, tighten the screws with a drill and a special nozzle.

During the installation phase, the following steps are taken:

Wooden sticks are scattered on the ground.
In this case, the difference between them depends on the type of floor area. When the floor plan is covered with linoleum or slab, the distance between the beams should be up to 30 centimeters. Leave at least one centimeter between flags and walls to provide adequate ventilation.
When the adjustment of the adjustable logs is completed, proceed to firmly fasten the screws to the rough surface. Take a solid drill and make a hole about 4 centimeters long through the pin in the concrete.
Then the spindle was fixed in it and driven by a hammer, fixing the bolt on the bottom of the floor.
The hole must be securely fastened so that the structure is not mobile.

During surface smoothing:

When adjustable full clamps are installed around the perimeter of the space and securely fastened, they begin to repair them.
This applies the rule and the key to be adapted.
Let's break down to a height that should not exceed 1-2 millimeters. Using the wrench and focusing on the measurements, we start raising or lowering the screws as they strive for perfect alignment.

At the final stage, complete the following tasks:

When the adjustable flags are aligned with their hands, the nails are finally fixed with a hammer.
On racks that are cut with a knife or other tools to cut out unnecessary residue.
Where necessary, sound or thermal insulation materials are placed between the logs.
On logs, or better on top, fix the floor.
The choice of materials depends on the purchased flooring. Usually the floor is made of slabs made from plywood, rarely using DSP or GVL slabs, on top of which is linoleum or laminate.
Directly on the floor for adjustable installation of the final floor covering.

Floor coverings with adjustable feet

This option is used if the height of the floor surface does not exceed 3 centimeters.

In such a narrow space, it is hardly possible to hide the connection, but telephone cable and Internet wiring will be available. This type of installation technology is similar to the procedure for installing adjustable floors on logs.

It is necessary to prepare a set of adjustable presses on plates, consisting of sheets of plywood (other building material), poles, bushes, self-tapping screws.

You will also need: hammer, drill, level (water or laser).

Work begins with the preparatory stage:

Prepare the work surface, remove debris, dust, dirt. Then separate the posts to be removed underground, remembering that the height of the floor surface should not exceed 3 cm.
The leaves are located along the perimeter of the space at a distance of 2-3 centimeters on each side.
Mark points for drilling holes.
If it has a sheet of 1.5x1.5 meters, it should be approximately 9. One of the holes should be placed in the middle of the plywood or other material. Four holes rotate in each corner and 4 in the middle of the sheet. For this reason, a reliable connection of plywood can be ensured.

The panels must be installed in the following order:

After marking the holes on the plates, they start drilling.
Use a special drill with an extended tip.
There are screws with gaskets in the holes already prepared, and on the underside they attach bushings with self-tapping screws.
As screws are inserted into each of the holes and secured, the sheet is reversed and placed on the structure.
Using the screw holes in the hole, drill holes and insert dowels into them.
They lead them halfway.

During the adaptation phase, the following steps are taken:

When the adjustable support is installed, the sheets are aligned. This work is done using a level and a special key.
After finishing, carefully cut off additional centimeters.
Inch nails are fully driven into the base.

Go to the final stage:

If there is a need to improve the noise and thermal insulation of the soil, suitable materials are placed at the top of the sheet.
After the sheets are assembled, the selected flooring is installed.

Installation Tips for Adjustable Leg Structures

To successfully install this type of floor system, you need to:

When the adjustment of the adjustable brackets is completed, the subfloor must be cleaned before laying the floor.
The fact that uncleaned debris, plastic cutouts, sawdust from the last floor covering can lead to pulleys and noise.
All fasteners for the floor structure should be carefully tapped and tightened, as this depends on the strength and reliability of the system.
Experts recommend mounting both the fixing element and the adjustable floor anchor.
This is the same dowel, but stronger. Anchors provide a secure and permanent anchor. They not only hold the stick in place, but at the same time pull it to the ground, which, in addition to stiffness, also transmits stiffness.
When the high floor is arranged, the best solution is to place the wrists in soundproof materials.
During the operation of the coating, there was no noise.
You don't have to keep the quality of the product if you want to create a regulated structure. From the financial point of view, it will be more profitable to immediately buy an expensive component than to process all the work again.

If you need to move the link after installation is complete, a few strips of coverage can be removed and then returned.

Adjustable floors

Often the floors on the logs cause people to associate with something old, creaky, rotting and obsolete.

Of course, at present there are many advanced technologies for floors that allow you to insulate, waterproof and raise the level of the floor to a greater height, if the idea requires it. However, one should not exclude the good old logs - the solution is simple and, with high-quality installation, will eliminate the disadvantages typical of such floors.

Advantages of adjustable logs

The most indisputable advantages of adjustable floors are the ability to raise the floor level to a greater height without weighing the total weight of the structure and the speed of installation, in comparison with various screeds and self-leveling floors.

The big advantage is the absence of wet processes and therefore no need for drying. The insulation of such floors also does not cause any problems - polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool, all these materials are acceptable. In comparison with self-leveling, floating screeds, the insulation does not have high requirements for the density of the insulation and it is possible to choose a budget material.

When pouring a screed up to 5-10 centimeters thick, the advantages of the lag are not relevant, however, there are often situations when the floor level needs to be raised by 15 or more centimeters. Such heights may be required with a large difference in floor slabs, with a partial repair of an apartment, where you have to dock with the old floor on the logs.

Of course, there are screeds with the addition of expanded clay, various floating screeds that allow you to raise the level of the floor and at the same time insulate.

As a rule, the cost of materials and work increases, and if a screed of 5 centimeters is 1.5-2 times cheaper than an adjustable floor, then with layers of more than 10 centimeters, the cost of the lag remains the same, which cannot be said about wet screeds.

Flaws

The disadvantages of joist floors include the risk that the floor will creak; in an aggressive, humid environment, the tree is not so durable. The issue with a creak is practically reduced to zero when choosing high-quality, dried logs and the right fasteners.

Many are confused by the possibility of laying tiles on such floors - this problem is solvable, the logs are set in sufficient quantities to eliminate significant deflections in the canvas, gypsum fiber is laid on top of the canvas.

Gypsum fiber serves as a damper, with a large fluctuation in the size of the canvas due to changes in humidity, GVL is quite stable and does not provoke the tile to snap off.

The material of the canvas laid on the logs is quite diverse: from the most budgetary chipboard and ending with plywood in two layers. Planed boards, lining and OSB - you must admit, a very wide choice for the floor along the logs.

How to make a flat floor on adjustable logs with your own hands

Results

Let's summarize: in repairs, where standard screeds and self-leveling floors do not cause high loads on the floor and the layers are thin enough, adjustable logs are not relevant.

In the same place where you need to raise the floor level by 10+ centimeters, the logs become very practical solution. High-quality installation is important, it will prevent creaking, subsidence and other problems inherent in wooden floors.

Self-assembly of adjustable logs

Adjustable floor companies exaggerate their professionalism and the uniqueness of their technology. I will try to dispel some myths, because I have been working in this area for several years.

Consider the important points in the installation.

Anchors, fasteners

Anchors are needed to attach the log to a concrete base; plastic dowels are not able to cope with the loads that the logs are subjected to.

The so-called plastic bushings that are screwed into the joist and attached to the concrete are very inconvenient to install, they can only be bought from those who are professionally engaged in the installation of floors. Naturally, very expensive. In addition, they have dubious reliability, the sleeve is attached to the concrete base on a dowel-nail.

The most reliable fasteners can be assembled independently, contrary to the cunning marketing of "sex companies". At the same time, components for the rack are usually available in most stores.

So, homemade fasteners for adjustable log . The base is an expansion anchor (drive-in), it tightly holds in concrete and is easy to install, it can be steel or brass, the anchor expands due to a screwed bolt.

Brass is preferred. The product is suitable for M10 or M8 thread, in fact, other components are selected based on the selected diameter. The next element is a bolt with a diameter suitable for the anchor and the corresponding length, the higher you need to raise the logs, the longer. Instead of a bolt, you can take long studs and cut them to the desired length, however, you need a special tool to screw in the studs.

Two nuts with washers (preferably reinforced) are screwed onto the bolt, in fact, a lag is clamped between these nuts / washers.

The resulting fastener is very reliable and easy to use.

It does not pull out even if the logs were made of raw wood, the log leads when it dries, and the anchor holds.

lags

Usually a 50 by 40 mm bar is used, but if the height allows, you can take a thicker bar. In thicker bars, fasteners to the base can be used less frequently.

As a standard, a 3-meter lag is attached to 7 anchors. Logs are set in increments of 30-40 cm, depending on the material of the covering sheets.

Logs should be chosen drier and without too much kinks and screws. The worse the lag is dried, the more likely it is to creak in the future. Ideally, dry, planed bars, planed after drying, are suitable, but finding those is not always easy. Usually in stores they sell planed "raw" and then naturally dried bars, they have a bent shape. You can use them, but you should carefully choose those that are smoother.

I note that the logs do not have to be planed and smooth, the priority is straight and not “screw”. Knots should also be avoided, if the hole with the anchor gets on the knot - the lag will significantly lose strength.

Prepared logs can be treated with an antifungal compound, this will not interfere in potentially wet rooms.

How to cover the lags

Materials can be varied, from draft to finishing. Under the subsequent fine finish, you can lay the usual edged board- This option is more suitable for a private house.

Sheet materials are suitable for both private and apartment building. It can be plywood, chipboard, OSB. All these materials are considered draft, followed by the laying of linoleum, laminate and parquet boards. With additional flooring of gypsum fiber, tiles are laid.

The finish coat is batten, lining.

Their further finishing consists in grinding and painting (although it is often useful to do this before installation).

Of the sheet material, I would like to note plywood - it is strong, durable and tolerates moisture well. Due to the different orientation of the veneer layers, plywood is less prone to “walking” in size.

There is really one unpleasant drawback: in most cases, the thickness of the sheets may differ slightly by 1-2 mm, and the difference may be present at different ends of the same sheet. Because of this difference, for linoleum flooring, for example, you will have to putty the seams. However, despite this, plywood is considered the most best material for adjustable floors - 10 mm plywood in two layers is the most durable solution.

Plywood not thinner than 18 mm is placed in one layer.

Foundation preparation

A concrete base is required to securely fasten the anchors. Usually, in commercials, lag fasteners are installed in a perfectly aligned cement-sand screed (DSP). But the reality is that for real work, leveling the base is not required this time, moreover, usually the screed does not have sufficient strength to securely hold the anchor.

If in your case the installation will be carried out for some reason on the central heating system, then it should be drilled to concrete. Or check the strength of your screed by twisting a test anchor.

Preparation consists in cleaning, foaming and covering various cracks, in order to avoid drafts. You should also mark the location of future logs, this is done on the walls, where the middle of the log will be. When marking, one should take into account the centimeter gaps of the sheets from the walls, so that the seams clearly fall in the middle of the log.

The easiest way to do the markup is this: from the beginning, the logs are marked on which there will be joints of the sheets, and only then the rest of the logs are distributed between the seams so that the distance between them does not exceed 30-40 cm.

I want to note: usually all the lags are made parallel, on the seams perpendicular to the lags, additional lags are not required for joining sheets, more on that later. Of course, the logs can be set as you like, there can be both longitudinal and transverse ones, the point is that you don’t need to make extra crosshairs.

Lag installation

From my own experience, I was convinced that it is more convenient to drill holes for bolts and nuts for nuts in place. If you make holes with melts in advance, it is impossible to move the fasteners, this may be necessary when the fasteners fall on weakness in concrete, in a smeared void, and so on.

This is my personal opinion, you can certainly drill holes in the lags in advance. I will describe my method, and you decide how convenient and practical. This method is not relevant with ready-made fasteners purchased in online stores - there, to fix the anchor, you need to tighten the lowest nut.

The lag is laid on the marked place, with a perforator, a hole is drilled directly through the lag in the concrete base. Having drilled, the anchor is immediately inserted without washers and nuts. This will prevent the lug from moving during further drilling. I want to note that in panel and monolithic houses in most cases, the thickness of the overlap is not more than 10 centimeters, so drilling more than 5 cm is highly undesirable, be careful! Having drilled, you need to clean the hole with the same puncher in the drilling mode so that all the crumbs come out.

Thus, all the logs are drilled, the bolts are tightened in the anchors. Fasteners are securely fixed in concrete, however, the logs have free movement up and down.

After tightening the anchors, the bolt heads are sawn off, the logs are pulled off.

One nut is screwed onto each protruding stud and one washer is put on. It is not easy to screw a nut onto a sawn bolt, so it is useful to have a small file on hand, trimming the sawn edges makes it easier to screw the nut. Further, in the lags, holes for the upper nuts are drilled, put back into place, the position of the lag is adjusted with the lower nuts and pulled from above with the second nut with a washer.

It is most convenient to regulate the lag using laser level. A tubular wrench is convenient for tightening the upper nuts, and an open-end wrench for adjusting the lower ones.

After all the adjustments, the studs sticking out above the lag are cut off. Lag installation completed. If insulation was conceived, the insulation is laid and foamed. Excess foam is cut off and the floor is ready for flooring.

flooring

The most important thing in flooring is to align the sheets so that the seams fall in the middle of the lag. It may happen that the seams will be significantly displaced, if the sheet does not go on the log at least a centimeter, you will have to change the layout of the sheets or make additional seams, twisting the log is much more problematic. The seams running across the lag are pulled together from below with a bar or the same sheet material.

It is important to leave a gap of 5-15 mm from the walls, the canvas will expand in which case, this will in some cases avoid floor creaking.

When laying plywood, an unpleasant phenomenon may occur: self-tapping screws may not sink into the canvas and burst, the result is not a tight attraction, and a creak may appear in this place.

In the place of the burst self-tapping screw, you need to tighten a new one, stepping back a few centimeters. If the self-tapping screws burst too often, there are two ways out: instead of 3mm, take thicker screws, for example 6mm, or, before tightening, make a drill with a drill slightly larger than the diameter of the cap.

That's all, I hope I've given you all the information.

Return to the section "Apartment repair"

Wooden floors are the warmest, most environmentally friendly and beautiful of all types of flooring because:

the tree has a fibrous structure, it has, at the same time, strength and flexibility, as well as relatively low thermal conductivity;
wood is a material that “breathes”, that is, it absorbs moisture from environment and gives it back, optimizing the humidity in the room;
has a unique texture, which "plays" with skillful processing: due to the difference in density, color and pattern.

There are certain design features plank flooring.

This is the laying of logs - wooden beams - on a supporting structure with a certain step. To understand how to make a floor on logs and choose the most suitable option for specific conditions, you need to find out what types of wooden floor structures are.

In private housing construction are used various materials load-bearing and enclosing structures, they are built on different types soils, which determines the choice of foundation.

Once the house is erected, the question is how to install the logs so that the floor is strong and stable. This will depend on the size of the room, because even for a room with an area of 1x1 m, you need support for the logs in the middle. Therefore, you need to decide whether to choose supporting pillars or the foundation of intermediate walls as the base for the logs.

Installation of the floor on the logs along the beams and supporting pillars

As a support for the log, a strapping of beams is arranged along the inner perimeter of the foundation.

For support between the beams, intermediate posts are arranged every 500-600 mm. Technically it looks like this:

A pit is being dug, it will also serve as a formwork: 400x400 mm and 400 mm deep.
First, sand is rammed in it - a layer of 10 cm, then crushed stone - 10 cm.
Then a solution is poured in a layer of 20 cm.
When the foundation is ready, on it from ceramic brick a column is laid out to the level of the lag.
From above, under the logs, waterproofing is laid on the pole.

The logs are laid, relying on the bars along the perimeter and the pillars between them, so that their ends do not reach the basement wall or grillage by 2-3 cm (this is necessary to expand the tree).

The joists must overlap the support by at least 10 cm.

The grillage is the upper part of the foundation of the house. It can be "low" - somewhat recessed relative to the "zero mark" - ground level. Or "high" - raised above the ground. If the foundation is piled, the grillage is made to link individual columns - piles into a single structure and in order to serve as a foundation for the intermediate walls of the house.

The cross section of the log, depending on the load exerted on the floor, will be 10x20 or 15x20 cm.

Their length, preferably, should be enough from one to the other wall of the room.

The step between the lags will depend on the width of the insulation used - this will make the laying process more convenient (the optimal size is 1 m).

There is an opinion that the logs before fastening should lie in the room for several days and only then they can be fixed.

Before you make the floor on the logs, communications can be laid between them.

It is necessary that the insulation be 5-7 cm below the lag level.

This is necessary so that there is a gap between the insulation and the finishing floor layer for ventilation. It is better to calculate the dimensions of the insulation and the log immediately in order to follow the technology when laying (the insulation layer can be 10-15 cm).

If, nevertheless, the height of the lag is not enough for the ventilation device, counter-rails can be stuffed on them, which should have the same width as the lags.

Floor device algorithm

First, the beams, then the logs are attached to the base with perforated (anchor) corners, and are laid on them.
For fastening, self-tapping screws 3-4 cm long are used.
Along the log, cranial bars with a section of 4x4 cm are attached to their lower edge. They serve as a support for boards or plywood (subfloor) on which insulation will be laid.
Before laying the insulation, boards and logs must be covered with a layer of high-quality waterproofing, with access to the walls, to a level above the finished floor, so that moisture from the underground space does not get into the insulation. The waterproofing is fastened with a stapler to the tree.
A layer of vapor barrier is laid over the laid insulation and the log, which must also be removed to the level of the baseboards.
It is tightly pressed against the insulation and fixed with a stapler to the sidewalls of the log.
A finishing floor is laid on the logs. It can be plank and will be laid across the log. If it is planned to lay parquet, laminate or other sectional flooring, a substrate should be laid under it: particle boards, OSB or cement-bonded particle boards (DSP), which have sound and heat insulating properties.

Between the ends of the finished floor and the wall, you need to leave a gap of 1-2 cm, left for the thermal expansion of the wood, which will then be closed with a plinth.

To ventilate the underground space with an uninsulated basement, holes are left in it for ventilation, which

b. covered with protective nets, from rodents. In summer, the goal of airing and drying is achieved, but in cold weather, the underground cools down a lot, cooling the floor too. Therefore, it is recommended to close the vents for the winter.

A more suitable option is when the basement is insulated from the inside or outside, and the ventilation is arranged internally - the channels are brought out into the room and hidden behind the baseboards.

Installation of the floor on the logs along the intermediate walls

It differs from mounting on pillars by the design of the foundation.

The strip foundation is arranged under each wall and, thus, divides the entire basement space into separate rooms.

All installation steps are repeated, only the logs will rest on the foundations of the intermediate walls or beams attached to them.

Since air is needed to ventilate the underground, it is difficult to organize it in intermediate rooms.

For free passage of air, through holes are made in the walls, and also in the design of the enclosing walls are laid ventilation ducts taking air from the room.

Installation of the floor on the logs on the floor slab

It is clear that in this case it is not necessary to ventilate the floor from below, as well as laying a subfloor as a substrate for insulation.

DIY adjustable floors

But it is still necessary to arrange sound insulation and, at the same time, insulate. The better this is done, the warmer the floor will be and the less voices and the sound of the perforator coming from the lower floor will be heard.

Logs are laid parallel to the short side of the room. Their size depends on the layer of insulation that is supposed to be laid under the floor.

If the floor slabs are not completely even, the horizontal lag can be achieved using a level and placing pieces of plywood under the joists.

The cavities between the lags are laid with insulation or covered, for example, with expanded clay.

A sheet of polyethylene or penofol type insulation is laid on top of the insulation, which will reflect heat inwards and is fastened with a stapler to the sidewalls of the log. The remaining space of 1.5-2 cm will serve to ventilate the space below them.

Then, a finishing floor is arranged along the logs, with the obligatory arrangement of gaps between the coating and the wall.

01/18/2014 at 20:01

Fastening the lag to the floor: pros and cons
Log laying technology
Fastening the lag with self-tapping screws
Use of anchors
Fastening lag corners
Mounting adjustable logs

Quite often, a floor on logs is organized in residential premises, which allows the use of any type of insulation and sound insulation, various materials for the subfloor.

Thus, it is possible to make any surface even and lay the necessary communications under the floor. Installation of this floor is quite simple, and from an economic point of view, it is not very expensive.

The result is a structure with a small load on the base. And of course, when installing such a floor, the question arises whether it is necessary to attach the logs to the floor and, if necessary, how to attach the logs to concrete floor.

In this article, we will provide answers to these questions.

Fastening the lag to the floor: pros and cons

According to the assurances of the opponents of fastening, these actions can destroy the screed, and where the bars and the base are connected, the sound insulation is broken, and sound bridges are formed, which the neighbors from below will not be happy about.

And those who believe that fixing is necessary share their experience: all the work done to repair the floor was in vain due to the deformation of the lag.

Is everything really as they say? Regarding the destruction of the screed, if the screed is quite strong, then it will not be possible to break it with a drill when drilling a hole.

And to make repairs to the floor is possible only if there is a solid foundation. If the old screed began to collapse, then it must be removed.

The problem of sound insulation violations remains controversial.

Rigid structures can actually transmit sound. However, insulating material is placed in the space between the lags, which has soundproofing characteristics. Under the logs, a gasket is placed that has shock-absorbing properties, which also prevents the spread of sound.

The sound bridge, which is formed at the attachment point, transmits vibrations to concrete, and it is a fairly dense material and, unlike wood, does not conduct sound well.

Therefore, for the neighbors below, there will be no noticeable changes in the noise level before and after the repair.

The floor on the logs is constructed from beams, fasteners, rough flooring. When all the components are displaced relative to each other, a creak occurs, which is unlikely to please the neighbors. You can prevent the appearance of an unpleasant sound if you firmly fix the logs to the floor.

Another argument speaks in favor of fastening - fixing the lag. When it comes to the degree of wood drying, buyers are forced to believe the words of the seller, since it is impossible to find out by simple inspection.

Over time, poorly dried bars can warp, as a result, the coating will move, and the entire complex floor structure will be skewed.

For those who are wary of attaching the log to a concrete base, you can organize a floating floor. In this case, the flooring is not attached to the supporting structures. This will provide excellent sound insulation, but well-dried logs must be used.

They won't warp over time.

The bars are fastened to each other in such a way that a lattice is obtained. This design will make the floating floor more stable. Insulation is laid between the bars, a subfloor is built on top.

As a result, the entire structure under its own weight is pressed to the floor. Over time, such a floor will not change its shape and will serve for a long time.

In most cases, the installation of a log on a concrete base is carried out with their fastening to the floor, since there are much more arguments in favor of this than the probable disadvantages.

Log laying technology

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to install logs on a concrete floor:

Quality materials are the key to a successful renovation.
You can use a timber made of coniferous wood. Its humidity should not exceed 18%. Acquired bars must be allowed to acclimatize for several days in the room where it is planned to make the floor. Logs that begin to buckle should be set aside and not used in the floor.

The wooden components of the future structure should be treated with a flame retardant and an antiseptic that will prevent the appearance of mold and insects.
Foundation is being prepared, that is, the surface is cleared of debris, all cracks are rubbed, the protrusions are knocked down.
The tree must be protected from moisture., that is, it is necessary to perform waterproofing.
For this, materials in the form of rolls, hydrophobic mastics, impregnating compounds, and a dense film are used.
Prepare the necessary tools for the job, fasteners and substrates for lifting the log. The substrates must be rigid, which will not sag over time, so that voids do not form at the support points. You can take thin boards, pieces of plywood, or purchase special plastic substrates.
Logs should be laid across the sunlight falling from the window.
Wood can be deformed during temperature changes, and when laid in this way, all logs will warm up evenly. In rooms like a hallway, logs must be laid across the movement. This will give the floor more strength.
Depending on the thickness of the rough flooring, the distance between the bars is selected.
The greater the thickness and the higher the strength, the farther apart the logs are laid. As a rule, the distance is about 40-50 cm.

The logs closest to the wall should be located 2-3 cm from it, and others - depending on the size of the room.
After the complete assembly of the crate, it should be brought to a horizontal plane. It is best to have an even base. There are craftsmen who even make a thin cement screed for this, provided that the floor level difference allows this.
You can not perform a screed, since the use of a log allows you to level even a very uneven floor. If the beam is below the required level, then substrates are placed under it.
To provide cushioning and additional waterproofing to wood it is necessary to lay logs on linoleum, roofing material, polyethylene foam or something else.
It is important that the material used is not soft. Otherwise, after some time, it will sag from the pressure acting on it, as a result, a gap will form, which will eventually lead to the appearance of unpleasant sounds, such as a creak.

After completing the construction of the structure from the log, it remains only to fix them to the floor.

There are the following ways to attach logs to a concrete floor:

using dowels and screws;
anchoring;
use of galvanized corners and self-tapping screws.

The choice of mounting method depends on financial capabilities and personal preferences.

Fastening the lag with self-tapping screws

Such lag fasteners as self-tapping screws are the simplest and most inexpensive option, but at the same time guaranteeing an excellent result.

Symmetrical holes must be drilled in the lags and the base. Then dowels are inserted into them and screws are screwed in.

The distance between the holes can vary between 40-80 cm depending on the case.

The length of the self-tapping screw should be equal to the thickness of the beam plus 5-6 cm.

You can use self-tapping screws with a thread that does not reach the cap. They allow you to better press the logs to the floor.

Use of anchors

To obtain a reliable and long-term fastening, you can take an anchor for a log floor. In addition to holding the timber in one place, they also attract it to the surface, giving the entire system additional rigidity.

In essence, the anchor is a dowel, but much more powerful.

Its advantage is a high pull-out resistance, so it is used in the installation of very heavy structures that create a large load on the fasteners. The probability of completely tearing off the floor on the logs from the concrete base approaches zero, so you can also fix it with self-tapping screws. However, anchors are quite often used for these purposes.

So, how to fix the logs to the concrete floor with anchors? This method is performed similarly to fastening with self-tapping screws.

The same holes are made in the beams and the concrete floor. To prevent the bolt head from sticking out, it must be hidden without damaging the wood; for this, the logs must first be countersunk.

Usually, 3-4 anchors are required to secure one lag within a room.

The locking element of the anchor should be inserted into the hole in the floor, then a bolt should be screwed into it through the beam.

Anchor bolts are produced in various lengths: 45-200 mm. When choosing a length, the thickness of the log plus 6 cm for penetration into the base should be taken into account. It is recommended to purchase anchors with a diameter of 10 mm.

Fastening lag corners

Another fastener for the floor log is used - a galvanized metal corner.

One side of the corner is attached with self-tapping screws to the timber. The self-tapping screw should enter the tree by 3-4 cm and best of all at an angle, this will increase the strength of the connection.

The other side of the corner should rest against the floor.

It should be fixed by the methods described above, that is, using dowels with self-tapping screws or anchors. Instead of corners, you can take a U-shaped profile.

Adjustable floors: do-it-yourself log device technology analysis on supports

Mounting adjustable logs

Installation of an adjustable system is easier and it will be easier to get a perfectly flat surface with it. In this design, instead of anchors, plastic racks are used, which are screwed into wood and fixed to the base with dowels (for more details: “How to make adjustable floors on logs with your own hands”). By rotating the special bolts, you can set the required height. After the lags are adjusted, the protruding part of the bolts must be cut off.

Conclusion

AT wooden house it is not recommended to fix the logs to the floor. And if a concrete screed is used as a base in the room, then in this case it is necessary to fix the logs to the concrete floor or not. In such a situation, fastening will not be superfluous. Everything is done quite simply, the main thing is to use high-quality materials and strictly follow all the rules.

Then the design will turn out to be reliable and will serve for a long time.

The arrangement of a wooden floor on logs is the same, long-forgotten old technology that has revived like a Phoenix and acquired the outlines of a new, advanced one. Contributed to the return of the idea of engineering achievements: concrete slabs and modern methods of manufacturing hardware.

Wooden floors: advantages and disadvantages

Traditional styling the floor was based on the following operations: in the house, logs were laid every meter along the base, to which the boardwalk was attached. The advantages of floors on logs over concrete screeds that have come to replace them are undeniable:

Natural wood flooring is warm. This is known to those residents of old buildings, whom households often reproach for an unforgivable sin - the habit of walking barefoot around the apartment.
Its surface withstands significant loads, impacts, repairs, restructuring. At the same time, it does not chip, does not crack, nothing falls off of it;
In most cases, pavements laid decades ago are still alive today. They were ennobled, covered with parquet and carpet on top, but natural base preserved;
The price of the material - wood - is relatively low: by the middle of the last century, this material completely replaced clay coatings.

The disadvantage of the technology was significant. This is the complexity of installation and, accordingly, its cost. The difficulty was in leveling the plane of the board. It was not easy to find adjustable supports (brackets) for the beams, even more difficult, almost impossible, to fix them: the ground was unreliable, and there was nothing to break through the concrete (already existed).

Preparation for work

Need to find a solution to the problem:

The floor must be wooden, fixed on the logs;
The bases for the flooring device from the board must be adjustable.

At the same time, the complexity of the installation of the lag should be such that wood flooring in the house one master could make (on the strength of two) in a couple of days. There are such solutions. Their price corresponds to the average cost of installing floors. Installation is so simple that the work can be done by one person. At the same time, the reliability of fastening remains one hundred percent.

The principle of installing floors on adjustable logs

Modern concrete structures, in which slabs serve as a draft base, made it possible to return to an environmentally friendly, reliable, warm wooden floor on the lags. Thanks to the widespread use of power tools, the development of technology, a wide selection of hardware, it is possible to lay the flooring in the house on adjustable logs.

There are many options for how to install and how much to pay: beams, for example, are mounted on adjustable prefabricated anchors, the price of which is 3-6.5 USD. a piece. You can buy carpentry corners (which is cheaper) and install the floor in the apartment yourself. You can invite a specialized team: the estimated installation price will be 19-20 USD. for 1 m 2.

Innovative way

Patented technology using plastic threaded bushings and dowels. The sequence of work is as follows:

AT wooden bars through holes are drilled;
Threaded polymer sleeve fingers are screwed into them. In the future, these fingers will serve as support posts;
Beams are installed in their proper places;
The lower part of the sleeve is attached to the concrete base with a dowel. Fasteners must be located exactly in the center of the sleeves, allowing them to rotate around the axis;
Now the sleeve serves as a worm - its rotation leads to the movement of the beams in height;
Using the spirit level, all the bars are brought to the same level;
The sleeve shank remaining on top is cut down with a chisel;
After leveling is completed, boards, plywood or other coatings are laid.

A similar technology is used for laying plywood without boards. The base device is performed as follows:

Select support bushings-brackets with internal thread. Through holes are drilled in plywood with a feather at the places where the supports are installed;
The bushings are inserted into the holes and fixed on the sheets with self-tapping screws;
Polymer sleeves are screwed into the formed nests.

Further actions are similar to the previous technology. The manufacturer offers a video that can be viewed at the end of the article.

Costs are formed based on how many and which kits will be used. The price of one set of four logs with bolts, set by the manufacturer, depends on the length of the beam: 1000 mm costs 20 USD, 2000 mm - 33 USD, and 3000 mm - 45 USD.

Available Option: Brackets

In addition to polymer sleeves, adjustable logs in the house are mounted on U-shaped racks. Each stand-bracket on the side surface has pairs of holes located at different levels with a 5 mm pitch. If you modify the brackets yourself, then you can provide as many levels as the master considers necessary. The device of a wooden floor is performed as follows:

Through each meter, mark the axes along which the beams will be laid;
U-shaped fasteners are installed on the lines and screwed to the concrete slab;
Measure the degree of deviation from the horizontal of the draft base, determine the points of minimum and maximum height;
Calculate the height of the mid-level mount;
Install the extreme beams and display their horizon at a given level;
They are installing all intermediate bars, checking their level along the extreme lags.

At the end of the work on the installation of the bars, the extra "ears" of the racks are cut off and the flooring is installed - boards, other plates.

Floors on supports made of furniture studs

Another way to lay the log on adjustable supports is to use a furniture stud, double-sided - with metric and single-thread threads. They have long been used for attaching hinged elements to concrete, brick, wooden surfaces. To lay a wooden floor on logs, studs with a section of 8-10 mm are suitable.

The bars must first be prepared. To do this, every 30 cm they drill:

Holes corresponding to the sections of the studs;
Coaxial half-holes with a diameter of 20-25 mm and a depth of 20 mm - for screwed nuts.

The device of floors in the house is performed as follows:

The bars are laid in increments of 1 meter;
Holes are drilled in the concrete base, coinciding with the holes in the beams;
Install polymer dowels;
Screw in the pins.

The next step is to prepare the support brackets: two nuts are screwed onto the studs and washers are put on, the outer diameter of which exceeds 30 mm. Install the beams so that they rest on the washers; one more nut is baited on top. The heights are leveled: the level is set with one lower nut, the second - with a locking nut - is fixed. Complete the installation of the subfloor by tightening the top nuts. With the help of a grinder, the protruding ends of the studs are cut off and the flooring is prepared - boards, plywood, OSB.

The price of the work is minimal: they can be done independently. The cost of hardware matters, but they are considered consumables. Compared to the cost of the main raw material, this value can be neglected.

Adjustable floor - subfloor in the form of a log or plywood flooring

As a rule, flooring in residential premises is laid on a concrete screed and logs. A relatively new option is subfloor construction in the form of a log or plywood flooring, the height of which can be adjusted with the help of special blocks-racks. This decision is quite understandably called - adjustable floor.

Adjustable floor technology involves the use of wooden logs or slabs (sheets of moisture-resistant plywood 18 mm), which are supported by stand-up bolts screwed into them, usually made of high-strength plastic. Turning the bolts around the axis changes the height of the lag or sheets, which allows you to accurately level the subfloor. After leveling the structure, the bolt is rigidly fixed to the base with a dowel-nail. In this case, the base can be either concrete (monolithic, hollow, with a screed), or wooden (beam). Sheets of moisture-resistant plywood are usually laid on top of the logs and any type of floor covering is already fixed on them - solid board, parquet, parquet board, laminate, linoleum, carpet, etc. In order to save money, massive boards are sometimes mounted directly on logs.

Benefits of an adjustable floor system

Such adjustable structures have a number of advantages. First of all, they have advantages over concrete leveling.

They are cheaper than concrete screed when leveling a surface with a height difference of more than 3-5 cm.
No need to fiddle with cement.
Installation of adjustable floors produced much faster pouring concrete screed.

In addition, they allow you to save money and time when arranging a base for plank flooring (parquet, parquet board, laminate), because concrete preparation in this case will include not only a screed, but also a self-leveling mixture.

Do not forget also about the need to create waterproofing (and often soundproofing) on top of the screed and a layer of plywood on which a wooden coating will be laid. In aggregate, the costs of such preparation will be higher than the costs of installing an adjustable structure.

Another important point: installation of adjustable poles usually takes less than a week, since one worker mounts an average of 20-25 m² of adjustable joists or slabs per day. A completely different situation is with the base of a concrete screed: for parquet work, its strength must be at least 150 kg / cm², and the screed acquires such strength within 28 days. However, even this time period is not enough to start laying parquet or boards.

Note that European standards require drying of the screed up to 3-4%. It is a mistake to assume that it dries to this level in 28 days: this process takes longer than the curing process, and usually takes several months.

In the design of adjustable supports, there is no direct contact of wooden elements with the floor base, and, therefore, it is possible to lay logs over the concrete floor, and then plywood and parquet, without waiting for the concrete to dry completely. In the case of an overlap with high humidity, a plastic film is laid on it, which cuts off water vapor, after which the installation of logs or slabs immediately begins.

Finally, the adjustable floor design offers the possibility air movement under the floor and thereby removing excess water vapor that can lead to warping and rotting of wood. The inflow and exhaust of air is carried out due to the gaps between the floor and the wall of the room (there is also a gap between the plinth fixed to the wall and the floor). The standard value of this gap is 10 mm. If you need to improve the ventilation of the space under the subfloor, then you can install decorative grilles in the floor in opposite corners of the room for additional air inflow and exhaust.

Another advantage of adjustable structures is that they improve the sound insulation of the room: the floor is not monolithic, but contains an air layer in its “pie”. If it is necessary to increase the level of sound or heat insulation of the floor (for example, in a home theater or basement), mineral wool slabs can be laid between the joists. In addition, plastic racks dampen noise.

Adjustable floor slabs are laid on metal plates fixed on logs. The thickness of the insulation layer can be varied, and there is usually no contact between the slabs and the concrete base (they are separated by an air gap), so that in the case high humidity overlapping insulation will remain dry.

Next moment: height-adjustable floors allow to lay under flooring engineering Communication(pipes up to 100 mm in diameter) and any wiring. Moreover, communications will take the shortest path, so there will be fewer connecting nodes, therefore, the reliability of the system will increase, and the cost of its installation, on the contrary, will decrease.

Leveling floors over joists or plywood boards have obvious advantages over concrete leveling if we are talking not about an abstract “concrete screed”, but about a base for parquet, parquet board or laminate, which includes layer, layer and layer. Adjustable structures are cheaper than such a base, especially when it is necessary to level the floor with strong differences in height.

In addition, it gains strength within 28 days, while the installation of an adjustable floor usually takes from 2-3 days to a week. In addition, engineering communications and wiring can be laid under the adjustable floor, and, if necessary, heat and sound insulation slabs. However, in itself, such a floor increases the sound insulation of the room due to air cushion between the floor covering and the ceiling, as well as through the use of plastic stud bolts.

Problems and disadvantages of adjustable floors

One of the problems that arise when using a wooden floor is creak. Is it likely to appear in floors on adjustable joists or slabs? Experts say that with a quality installation of the system, there will be no creaking. It can occur when the floor elements do not fit tightly to each other, for example, when the bolts are incorrectly attached to the base or the gaps between the end joints of the log and plywood are formed incorrectly. However, with a qualified installation, all elements of the system are so rigidly fixed on the base and interconnected that even a slight drying of the wood, according to experts, will not result in floor creaking.

However, possible knocking on the floor if the concrete base on which the logs rest is made with errors: for example, if the screed applied to the ceiling crumbles or cracks. Then it is recommended to remove a bad screed before installing the floor, as well as to correctly select the dowel-nail model for attaching the bolt to the base.

Poor cleaning of dust during the installation of adjustable structures leads to dust particles entering the gaps, which can lead to creaking in the floor.

We add that the maximum allowable pressure on adjustable structures can reach 3 tons per 1 m², which corresponds to a large margin of safety of the floor. Their estimated service life is at least 50 years.

Another of the possible (not everyone even notices it) disadvantages of adjustable floors can be called a kind of rumble when moving on them especially if the shoes are high heels or the soles are very hard. This is especially pronounced if you jump on such a floor.

Installation of adjustable floors

If it is necessary to raise the floor by 50 mm or more, install adjustable log design. And if the required lifting height is from 30 to 50 mm, apply system of adjustable plates (plywood).

Adjustable log system (adjustable floor on logs).

When installing the floor on a concrete floor, logs with a section of 45 x 45 mm and a length of 2 or 3 m are most often used. Their standard step is 300 mm between the axes of the bars. When laying the floor on a floor of wooden beams, logs of a larger section are usually required, its value is selected taking into account the step of the beams (as a rule, logs with a section of 45 x 70 mm are used). You can also vary the step lag. For each log there are 5 bolt-racks with a diameter of 28 mm, under which threaded holes are prepared at the factory.

The length of the bolts is usually 100 or 150 mm: it is chosen depending on how high the floor needs to be raised. The installation of the structure begins with the fact that bolts are screwed into the logs, then the logs are laid out on the base with the required step and holes for the dowel-nails are marked. Moreover, a gap of about 10 mm is left between the lags and the walls.

First, bolts are screwed into the logs, after which they are laid out on the base, outlining and then drilling holes for dowel-nails

Log alignment is carried out using a level and a hex key

After that, they begin to level the lag by rotating the bolts with a hex key (the bolts have a hex groove), using a level.

Adjustment of the height of the plastic bolts is carried out using a special hex key

Having completed the alignment, the dowels are hammered all the way into the base, and the protruding part of the plastic bolt is cut flush with a chisel.

After leveling the lag, the dowels are driven all the way into the base

Then plywood flooring is mounted. According to the recommendations of the system manufacturers, the thickness of the deck should be at least 18 mm. However, many experts recommend making flooring up to 30 mm thick with a lag step of 300 mm for parquet and solid board.

As a rule, two layers of plywood sheets are laid (overlapping the joint of the two lower ones with the top sheet) to ensure maximum structural rigidity. As a rule, plywood layers are fastened with self-tapping screws, but experts are increasingly recommending that in addition to this, it is imperative to glue the top layer to the bottom. A floor covering is mounted on top of the plywood.

We add that there are other adjustable designs on the market. In particular, systems where metal rack bolts (anchors) are used, and adjustment takes place using a nut with a support washer screwed onto them.

There are also systems with U-shaped metal brackets that “wrap around” the log from the sides and fix it with self-tapping screws. The bracket has a number of holes, and after alignment, the screws are screwed into holes that are suitable in height.

The reliability of the floor structure according to adjustable lags is achieved due to right choice section and step lag in combination with the thickness of the subfloor, as well as due to high-quality installation. In a standard situation, the lag step with a section of 45 x 45 mm should be 300 mm with a subfloor thickness of 30 mm (usually these are two layers of plywood with a sheet thickness of 18 and 12 mm). Plywood layers should be glued together to achieve maximum structural rigidity.

There is an exception: in the case of using a parquet board fixed to the base with glue, it is enough to lay one layer of 18 mm plywood, since such a board and plywood have the same thermal expansion, and the rigidity of the structure is beyond doubt. The cross section and step of the lag change, as a rule, when the floor is laid on top of the floor of wooden beams. The distance between the beams can be quite large (1 m or more), so you either have to increase the cross section of the log, or set the logs with a smaller step and increase the thickness of the two-layer flooring - from plywood or a combination of grooved board and plywood.

The price of components for adjustable floor structures is from 400 rubles/m². Adjustable plywood floor mounting kit

Adjustable plate system (adjustable plywood floor).

The technology for mounting an adjustable plywood floor is somewhat different. A hole is drilled in plywood, into which a plastic sleeve with a diameter of 60 mm is inserted, having a threaded hole. The sleeve is fixed on a log or plywood with self-tapping screws. Then a bolt-rack is screwed into the sleeve, after which the entire cycle of the above works is performed.

Technology of the system of adjustable plates (plywood):

	1. Drilling holes in plywood and fixing plastic bushings with self-tapping screws;
	2. Screwing the stud bolts into the bushings
	3. Fastening bolts-racks with metal dowel-nails to the base

Adjustable flooring is a new technology that will enable you to reduce your flooring time.

Just like any other technology, it has its pros and cons.

But this is precisely what a certain professionalism of specialists (builders) consists of, in order to be able to choose among a large number of variations of the flooring itself the one that will be truly ideal and optimal.

How does an adjustable floor work?

Mechanism

The finished flooring is installed under wooden logs (unless, of course, you use floorboards), or on a solid OSB base (if you are using soft coatings or laminate) or sheets of so-called plywood.

Important! During the construction period of absolutely any floors - the so-called load-bearing surface must be located in a horizontal position, this is a must.

Basically, to achieve this result with the help of fixed logs is incredibly difficult, often you have to use different kind linings and wedges for leveling the spatial position.

These wedges have the ability to creak or bend in case of incorrect and inaccurate fixation, or simply fall out later for other reasons. You cannot eliminate these problems without dismantling the coverage area, and the dismantling itself is associated with huge losses of money and time.

These adjustable floors do an excellent job of leveling the surface on almost any uneven ground. In addition, the alignment mechanism itself will give you the opportunity to adjust the gap between the supporting base and the floor, and this will already make it possible to place various kinds of engineering networks in such areas.

Adjustable floors mainly consist of metal studs, plywood sheets, plastic stud bolts or floor joists. A sufficiently large number of modifications of control systems are being carried out, but such a fundamental difference between them is simply not found.

With the help of threaded rotation, the connection itself runs very smoothly (raising or lowering structural elements), in this way you can set the floor base itself in the required position as accurately as possible.

There are several types of floors (adjustable) in the world, let's take a closer look at them.

Types of adjustable floors

Adjustable floor with plastic adjustment mechanism

Features (characteristic): Most can be sold complete with separate kits or lags. Floors are installed much faster from the factory because they are threaded into the joists and therefore there is no need to drill with a hole mark.

The dimensions of the logs themselves are as follows: thirty by fifty millimeters, and the distance between the bolts is exactly forty centimeters. We recommend installing logs in increments of thirty / forty centimeters, the exact value must be chosen taking into account the maximum expected load on the floor itself.

Adjustable floor with metal adjustment device

Features (characteristic): Metal studs with washers and nuts are used for plastic joints. They can withstand heavy loads, but working with them is quite difficult.

Adjustable floor on metal corners

Features (characteristic): Plus in these corners is the stability of the logs themselves, you can create very complex floor designs, taking into account the layout of your rooms. The only negative is that the installation time increases quite a lot.
Not only logs, but also plates can be regulated.

The second option is used only for laminate flooring and soft flooring. The second option you can apply to almost all types of finished flooring.

DIY

You also have the opportunity to make adjustable floors yourself, this option has its advantages. The main ones are quite large savings in money (lower cost), as well as the ability to select the parameters yourself, especially depending on the specific features of the application.

Also, if you have a desire, you can perform floor insulation with adjustable floors, which is considered quite important in conditions of very high energy prices themselves.

Mounting technology

Adjustable joists with plastic bolts

For a base of a bearing nature, a cement-sand or concrete screed, a special set of adjustable logs is used, made directly from the factory. We can tell you right away that this option is considered the most expensive for adjustable floors.

The first step is to measure the space. This is necessary in order to determine how much lag is needed for a given room. If you are going to make floors in the bath, then know that they do not have a huge load, the distance between the lags should be up to forty-five centimeters.

The next step is to beat the distance between the lags on the screed. For this moment a blued rope is used, with the help of which the work on beating will be done very high quality and, most importantly, quickly.

After that, the third step will be cutting the lag to the required length. Basically, the length of the lag from the factory is about four hundred centimeters. You should carefully consider how you need to mark the logs in order to minimize the amount of waste as much as possible.

The distance from the cutting line to the nearest adjustment bolt must be at least one hundred millimeters. If the end is much closer than the above mark, then there are risks of various cracks under load.

After that comes the fourth step, namely the expansion of the lag around the marked lines. To install you will need:

Special key for screwing in bolts;
Screwdriver;
A hammer;
Chisel;
Doboynik for fixing dowels;
Drill with perforator.

Then you need to install the first log in a vertical position - just screw the threaded hole into simple plastic bolts. After that, you will need to put the ends of the bolts on the line and then drill a hole in the base for the dowel itself.

The depth of such holes (under the dowel itself) must be approximately two by three centimeters, while its length should be exceeded. This is connected with the hole, since a certain amount of concrete almost always remains in it, but if you do not make a margin in length in advance, then it will be problematic for you to completely hammer the dowel.

The next step is to install the dowels, but you should not finish them all the way. The dowel must not resist the rotation of the bolts. Using Enough long level set the correct and at the same time neat position of the lag. If your lag is already installed, and firmly enough, then just firmly fix the dowel. It is worth continuing to install lags in turn in places with marks, while controlling the position of the marks with a level.

This installation algorithm can be said to be offered to people by the manufacturers themselves, while most builders listen and apply this technology, mainly such builders are those who receive their wages every hour, and not by output.

Those builders who earn from working out do it a little differently. To your question "How?" we will tell. Builders take a simple hydraulic level and beat off the so-called zero level lag on opposite walls (two).

After that, dowels or nails are driven into those sections, everything will depend on the material from which the wall will be made, after which the ropes are pulled. If the logs need to be connected, then three walls should be taken. The rope will only be tightened when all the lags are already placed in their fixation areas.

After that, everything goes very quickly and easily. Absolutely every lag is installed along that rope, most importantly, it should not touch it, it is necessary to constantly check so that the gap between the lag and the rope is as minimal as possible. That's all, in this way you can achieve a very high speed of installation of an adjustable floor, and you can also increase the quality of this floor.

In general, there is a certain direct relationship between the number of measured planes and accuracy. Now we will explain to you. There is a fairly high probability that the position of the first log will deviate from the lowest level by about one millimeter.

By today's standards, that's pretty normal. It was for this purpose that a template was produced - if you need to cut off a sufficiently large number of identical parts, and at the same time, dimensions are not taken from each finished part in turn. In this case, the rope will act as a template.

The seventh step will be felling, namely, with a wide sharp chisel, it will be necessary to cut down the protruding area of \u200b\u200bthe plastic bolt.

Installation of logs on metal plates

The main advantage of these floors is the increased stability of fastening by increasing the area of the lower stop. There is also a drawback, namely, the terms increase, that is, the inability to continue and generally do the work yourself.

The lags themselves must be fixed to the U-shaped plates with the help of self-tapping screws, while the process of adjusting the height of the location of the lags themselves must be carried out using a series of holes on both sides of the plate, made in a vertical position.

Installation of logs on iron studs

Adjustable floors of this type can be installed without the help of others, and we will tell you specifically about this option. Choose the dimensions of the log, taking into account the characteristics of the floor and the greatest loads. Iron studs with zinc coating, optimal caliber 6÷8 mm. For the production of the system, studs, nuts and washers are useful.

Step 1. Beat off parallel strips on the supporting base at a distance of 30 ÷ 50 centimeters. The more distant, the stronger the lags must be chosen.

Step 2. Make a calculation according to the number of lags, washers, nuts and studs. The recommended distance between the studs is 30÷40 cm. Prepare all the materials used, additional components and devices for the work.

Step 3. Mark the holes in the lags for the studs, they must all be located on the stripes of symmetry. In the marked places, first drill a through hole Ø6 mm for the stud (if the caliber of the stud is different, then the hole must be drilled accordingly). On the outside of the log, drill a hole for the washer gauge with a pen drill. The abyss of the hole must exceed the required sum of the height of the nut and the thickness of the washer by a certain number of millimeters.

There is a 2nd method of marking holes in front of the anchor, but it takes more time, but, despite all of the above, it eliminates the possibility of errors.

Everything is done like this: first you need to outline only the last 2 holes in front of the anchor, screw them into the studs, fix the log in a suitable location on 2 nuts. Now, during the upcoming marking, the lag will not move anywhere.

In this arrangement, it is permissible to immediately drill holes in front of the anchor to the full depth. The work is done - the lag is removed, all the studs are screwed into space.

This function will need to be done with each lag, labor productivity is minimized by 2 times. You yourself must take the final conclusion on the marking method, taking into account the position of the concrete floor and the experiment of performing a similar family of cases.

Step 5. On any stud, tighten the nut and put the washer. It is better to immediately make your choice with the placement of their location according to the height. Screw the studs into the anchors tightly.

Step 6. Put the logs on the studs in turn, using the key of the required volume, by turning the lower nut to the left / right, straighten the state of the log. Keep in mind that the thread pitch of iron nuts is much smaller than that of plastic nuts.

Step 7 The lags are set - it is allowed to start fixing them. Use a washer and nut, insert them into the top hole.

Important! Tighten the top nut with great effort, including a slight decrease can become a prerequisite for the appearance of nasty squeaks while walking on the floor.

Step 8. Cut off the protruding ends of the studs with a grinder. Be careful with the lags, do not damage the unity of the lumber with the saw blade.

Installation of adjustable floors with straightening board

Draft flooring is suitable only for laminate or soft floor coverings. For installation, you need to purchase a set of industrial parts.

Step 1. Make a mark on the plywood sheet where the bushings are to be installed, drill holes of this diameter. The bushings must be no more than 30 cm. Drill holes vertically, if the boundaries are placed in front of the roll, then it will be necessary to redo them, which will significantly take time and increase the installation time of the adjustable floor.

Step 2. Insert the threaded bushings into the holes on the bottom side, fix them with small self-tapping screws, while adjusting the height of the floor, they do not have to turn in any way. Manufacturers foresee 4 places for fixing the bushings, so many are completely optional, it is enough to fix it with 2 self-tapping screws.

Step 3. Arrange markings on the floor, work hard so that the sheets do not have to be “cut” into small pieces. It is better to draw it on paper, think over a number of varieties, and only later will it be possible to choose the best one from them.

Step 4. Screw in all the plastic bolts, turn the plywood sheet over to the desired state. Screw in the bolts the same number of turns. After installing the main sheet of plywood, note at what level the bolts are placed. In the subsequent sheet of plywood, try to screw the bolts in the same location.

Step 5. When using a special wrench, screw in / unscrew the bolts until the plywood sheet is in a horizontal position at the desired height. Continuously check its condition with a level according to several planes.

It should be borne in mind that the fixing components to the concrete base are not strengthened in any way, the flooring comes out “floating”. This should be taken as a matter of interest at the time of making the determination of the arrangement of floor coverings in any given space.

Step 6. After installing the outer plywood sheet, test the condition of the subfloor again. Do not forget that the regulation characteristics do not exceed 2÷3 cm in any way. If the concrete base has very large bulges, then it will be necessary to level it again.