Making a brick oven. Wood-burning brick oven for summer cottages: step-by-step instructions for laying. Various functional purpose

Most domestic holiday villages do not yet have the opportunity to connect to centralized communications. From the infrastructure it is good if there are paved roads and power lines. In such conditions, the construction of a brick oven for wood-fired cottages will help solve an important problem: it will provide thermal energy for space heating and cooking.

We have selected for you schemes and arrangements of the simplest furnace structures, which a novice master can handle with laying. With our help, home craftsmen will easily master the basics of the difficult, but extremely interesting activity of the stove-maker. An impeccably built structure will delight both the owner and the household.

Except detailed description technology of laying brick stoves, we provide valuable recommendations on the selection of materials for the construction of units. Significant subtleties and the smallest nuances are scrupulously spelled out in the article. To help independent stove builders, schemes of stove structures, orderly briefing, photo and video guides are attached.

Competent selection of material for a structure subjected to high-temperature exposure is an important part of the work of a trained stove-maker. After all, the unit will be operated in far from simple conditions, while it should not malfunction, crack and collapse.

Option # 1 - a stove with a single burner panel

This is an extremely simple and compact design, as if elongated in the vertical direction. In the example, it is equipped with a door with heat-resistant glass, which allows you to monitor the process. If it is not possible to purchase just such a door, a cast-iron variety is quite suitable.

The oven can be made in two versions: in a universal one - with hob, intended for the preparation of hot dishes, in the heating room - without a chamber for the hob

The width of a small-sized brick structure is 510 mm, which allows it to be placed without problems in traditionally small country houses. The depth of the stove is 640 mm, while the depth of the furnace does not exceed 500 mm. The height of the structure is 2150 mm, the height of the chimney is determined by the position of the pipe relative to the ridge.

An oven is provided that can be replaced with a drying chamber or preparation tank hot water. The presence of functional compartments not only allows you to cook delicious hot dishes in the country, but also increases the heat transfer of a brick structure.

The air heated by the stove and flue gases during the operation of the stove rush upwards, pass along the rear wall of the cooking compartment, and then flow into the chimneys and further into the chimney. Thermal energy in this building is used to the maximum.

The narrow, vertically oriented design occupies a minimum of space in a country house, but does an excellent job of heating the space.

The described brick structure includes 31 rows of flat-laid bricks. In order for the design to serve flawlessly, the following orders must be followed exactly.

During the masonry, it is necessary to constantly check the horizontalness of the structure being erected and check the size of the diagonals of the laid out sides. There are strict requirements for the thickness of the seams, which must be strictly taken into account. The maximum thickness of the seams when laying the hull and smoke ducts cannot exceed 5 mm, while lining - 3 mm.

If you are thinking about building a country house, as comfortable as possible for comfortable living in it, then it usually cannot do without a small oven, especially if you plan to use it for most of the year. The lack of experience in furnace work should not stop the owners who want to invest the furnace on their own. You just need to choose a suitable, not particularly complicated option, the design of which is simple and understandable.

In addition, for a large heating facility with an intricate configuration of internal channels, as a rule, there is simply not enough space in a country house. Consider also simple options that are suitable for not big house, and for a beginner stove-maker – in a word, laying a stove with your own hands is simple and practical.

To make it easier to decide suitable model, it is necessary to highlight several conditions that are important for right choice. Well, then, consider several options, focusing on the optimal one for a specific area and configuration of the premises of the house.

General requirements for brick ovens

The conditions that the selected design must meet will directly affect the quality of heating the house, so do not neglect the information, which, on the contrary, should be paid close attention. These factors include:

• The dimensions of the furnace structure must correspond to the area on which it is installed, since heat transfer largely depends on this parameter.
• In addition, it is necessary to choose the correct form of the furnace structure. The side walls of the furnace, warming up, give more heat, while the index of the front and rear walls is 3-4 times lower. Therefore, if you need to heat two rooms at once, you should choose a narrow and long stove that can be built into the wall between the rooms.

For heating efficiency, a T-shaped version of the furnace is often installed. It can be designed for heating only or it can perform two functions if a model is selected that includes a hob. Such a stove is able to heat up to four rooms with a small area.

• The next condition that is important to consider is the location of the building inside the house, it should be as rational as possible. In order for the stove to be functional, to work as a device for heating and cooking, it must be installed so that the hob goes towards the kitchen, and one or both side walls look into the living rooms.
• When choosing a furnace, it is very important to take into account its heat transfer - this parameter must correspond not only to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe rooms, but also to their location and number external walls. This table will help you decide on the choice of the furnace according to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bits surfaces, depending on the characteristics of the room:

Room area, m²	Not a corner room, inside the house	Room with one outside corner	Room with two outside corners	Hallway
	Furnace surface facing the room, m²
8	1.25	1.95	2.1	3.4
10	1.5	2.4	2.6	4.5
15	2.3	3.4	3.9	6
20	3.2	4.2	4.6	-
25	4.6	6.9	7.8	-

• No need to play it safe and choose for small house a massive oven, since it will take a lot of time and enough a large number of fuel, despite the fact that a significant part of the generated heat will simply be “thrown into the pipe”. In addition, small structures sometimes work even more efficiently than half-room structures, since heat transfer largely depends on the internal structure of the furnace, and not just on its massiveness.
• Any, even the most heat-intensive stove, will be ineffective if the house is not insulated, since all the heat generated by it will go through walls, windows and ceilings. These require a very large amount of fuel to keep the temperature in the rooms at an acceptable level for living.

If you plan to save on fuel, getting high-quality heating, you should insulate the building well and choose a bell-type version of the furnace, which, thanks to numerous channels, will retain the heat transferred to the living quarters for a long time.

How to choose the right place for the oven?

The location of the furnace in the house is determined in advance, even before its construction, when drawing up a project, so you can install a heating structure in correct area, where the heat from its walls will be rationally distributed throughout the house. In addition, it is much easier to build a foundation for a furnace before building a house, both in terms of calculations and in terms of the amount of work. It must be said right away that the base for the furnace must be installed separately from the foundation of the house, that is, there must be a distance of at least 150 mm between their walls. Otherwise, during shrinkage (and it will definitely be uneven for structures of different mass and area), one of the foundations may begin to collapse, and the walls installed on it may deform.

• If several rooms are planned in the house, then the stove must be installed so that it is located at the crossroads of the walls dividing the house into rooms. But, since the foundations of buildings should not touch each other, the internal walls will have to be made light, without foundations. This option is shown in the diagram above.
• In some cases, homeowners prefer to install a stove near the entrance from the street, as thermal radiation from the walls creates an excellent curtain from cold streams.
• Placing a firebox close to front door eliminate excess garbage in living rooms, since they do not have to bring firewood or other fuel. However, when installing the stove in this way, it is necessary to position the firebox door so that it is impossible to get burned on it.
• The walls of the heating structure should not adjoin the walls of the house closely, that is, it is necessary to provide free access to any of them, since for safety reasons they require periodic monitoring, and the internal channels of the furnace require cleaning of the chambers. Sometimes the stove is part of the wall of the house, in which case a reliable heat insulation is laid between it and the end of the partition.

• If the stove is installed in an already built house, then, when planning its location, it is necessary to provide that the chimney pipe falls between the attic floor beams, which must be at least 150 mm away from it, with the creation of a thermal insulating “gasket” filled with heat-resistant material. To do this, most often a metal box is fixed around the pipe, which is filled with expanded clay of fine fraction, mineral wool, vermiculite, or simply sand.
• The area in front of the furnace firebox must be covered with heat-resistant material - it can be a metal sheet or ceramic tile.

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Models of simple in design small brick ovens

Brick ovens of small sizes do not lose their relevance today. And this is despite the appearance of alternative heating options, since many of these new products are too expensive, while others are inaccessible in suburban conditions. The stove, traditional for Russian houses, will either help out in any situation - it will warm the house and cook food. Therefore, if gas is not supplied to the house, and electricity is often turned off or you just want to save money on it, you should choose a stove that includes a hob. Knowing about the demand for small-sized furnace models, engineers developed quite a lot of their options. Some of them will be discussed further.

Furnace "Krokha"

The name of the Krokha model in itself speaks of the size of this stove, and it is suitable for a residential building with any area. Moreover, with the correct installation of the structure, it is quite capable of heating not one, but two whole rooms and a kitchen. For country house this compact stove will be ideal, as it can create coziness in spring and autumn, as well as in damp or cold weather in summer.

This stove is called "simple", because it is simple in design, and with a serious approach, it may well be built even by a novice master. The stove has very small dimensions, only 640 × 770 mm at the base, so it is suitable even for a small room, where it will be decided to allocate a corner for it.

The designer of the stove, A. Sushkov, successfully combined compactness, elegance and functionality in it, so "Krokha" will perfectly fit not only into the cottage room, but also decorate the interior of a private house with its cozy look. This stove is designed for heating one or two rooms with an area of ​​18÷20 m², and has the following characteristics:

Furnace parameters	Numeric Parameter Values
Width and length at the base	3×2.5 bricks or 640×770 mm
Construction height to pipe	2030 mm
Furnace weight	1260-1280 kg
Firebox depth	746 mm
efficiency	Up to 70-75%
Heat dissipation with a disposable firebox	1760 W
With a three-time firebox	2940 W
hob	Single burner

The designer has well thought out the rationality of the stove, so for its small size it gives excellent heat transfer. In the process of burning this model, its lower section warms up, and the “cap”, located in the upper part, retains the released heat well and slows down its escape into the chimney. The stove is equipped with a "summer" stroke, which allows you to heat only the hob without heating the entire structure, which is especially important in the warm season. "Baby" has three design options that differ in the location of the hob relative to the firebox, but most often the improved and most convenient variety is used, in which the stove and firebox are located on one side. This arrangement is convenient in that the stove can be installed in such a way that the firebox and stove will be in the kitchen, and the other two walls, if built into a partition, will heat two rooms located across the wall from the kitchen room.

In order for the stove to last as long as possible and be safe, its fuel chamber is laid out with fire-resistant fireclay bricks. Such walls withstand not only wood heat, but also that of fuel such as coal, briquettes and peat.

To the level of the stove, the stove has even walls, and above the furnace door, under the stove, along the entire perimeter of the building, a row protruding forward by 30 ÷ 35 mm is laid out, which divides the structure into two sections: upper, air-gas and lower - fuel. In the upper part of the furnace there are channels for the circulation of heated air. They contribute to the longest retention of heat in the furnace, preventing it from immediately leaving the pipe.

According to the idea of ​​the developer, this furnace should be equipped with a furnace door with refractory glass, through which the flames are perfectly visible. Therefore, if desired, "Baby" can be used as a small fireplace. Such a door may well be replaced by a conventional cast-iron version.

Since the oven has a small perimeter, it will require fewer consumables.

	Size in mm	Quantity, pcs.
Chamotte brick SHA-8		21
Red brick (no chimney		352
Figured (rounded) red brick		124
	350×250	1
Glass furnace door in a cast-iron frame (DP-308-1S)	210×250	1
Cast iron blower door	140×140	1
	410×340	1
Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox	500×700	1
flue damper	130×250	1
steel corner	40×40×5×520	4

Compact oven model - "Baby"

The main advantage of the model is its small size, which is 505×760 mm at the base. Well, a small weight, only 360÷365 kg, allows the installation of the structure on a strong heat-insulated wooden floor. A small oven has relatively thin walls, therefore, when heated, it quickly begins to give off heat to the room, in which a comfortable temperature is created in a short period.

When laying this furnace model, it is important to take into account one point - in the first lower row of the back wall, the middle brick must be left free, that is, it must be laid without mortar. This must be done so that after the completion of the masonry, the brick can be pulled out and the bottom of the furnace cleaned of the fallen mortar. In addition, the resulting hole will help to dry the finished structure faster. Then, the brick can be installed in place already on the mortar.

If the stove is planned to be installed on a wooden or concrete floor, then a heat-resistant layer is laid on it before laying. Usually, an asbestos sheet 5 mm thick is used for this, which is covered from above with a metal sheet or roofing material and an additional continuous layer of brickwork. In addition, it must be remembered that a metal sheet or ceramic floor tile must be laid and fixed in front of the stove.

The first heating of the finished furnace should be carried out with light fuel - it can be paper or straw. After the stove is heated, its doors and valve open for ventilation and final drying, which should be carried out for at least 7 ÷ 9 days.

After drying, it is recommended to whitewash the oven. The question arises: . Smoke will immediately appear on the whitewash layer if there are small gaps between the mortar and the brick that are not visible to the eye. The smoke will leave black or gray streaks on the whitewash, which will stretch upwards from the defective seam. When such traces appear, the seam from which they come must be completely cleaned of the solidified solution and filled with a new one, but more carefully and accurately.

You may be interested in information on how to do with step by step instructions

If you plan to make a decorative finish on the outer walls of the "Baby", then you can start this only after two to three months of operation of the furnace.

The chimney of this model has such a design that it can be brought outside in three ways:

• Lifting brickwork chimney to the ceiling, bring it through the attic and the roof of the house;
• Embedded in it steel pipe and connecting it to the main chimney;
• The walled-in pipe can be brought out through the wall, having previously secured the opening of its passage with heat-resistant material.

This diagram will help to understand the design of this model of a brick oven, since the number of rows and the configuration of the chimney channels are clearly visible on it.

The main characteristics of the stove "Baby" are as follows:

Furnace parameters	Numeric Parameter Values
Width and length at the base	505×760 mm
Construction height to pipe	725 mm
Furnace weight	360÷370 kg
Firebox depth	737 mm
Chimney channel section size	100×100 mm
efficiency	Up to 70-75%
Heat dissipation	1210 W
hob	single burner

For the construction of the Malyshki stove, the following materials and ready-made elements will be required (if you do not take into account the chimney):

Name of materials and components	Size in mm	Quantity, pcs.
Fireclay brick SHA-8 for firebox		37
Red brick		62
Cast iron blower door	140×140	1
Cast iron furnace door	210×250	1
Single burner cast iron stove	410×340	1
Cast iron grate	350×200	1
flue damper	130×250	1
	550×800	1

Prices for fireclay bricks

fireclay brick

It should be noted that this model is easily improved, despite its compactness. To its design, some craftsmen manage to add an oven and a tank for heating water. In this configuration, "Baby" can be used as a sauna stove.

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Heating stove with a small footprint

This mini-oven model has only one heating function. It can be used for installation in the country if, in addition to it, an electric or gas stove for cooking, and there is no need for a hob. Otherwise, its installation will be irrational.

It is also suitable for a private house in which you need to heat two adjacent rooms by building a stove into the wall between them.

The advantage of this model can safely be called its compactness and high heat transfer. The side walls of the stove have a fairly large area, therefore, when heated, they will become a kind of “battery” half a wall in size, which will quickly and efficiently transfer heat to the premises. The total heat dissipation from this model is about 2000 W, moreover, 210 W fall on the front and rear walls, and 895 W each on the side walls.

The heating furnace has a more complex internal structure, consisting of several channels, which provide excellent heat transfer from the walls. Since the oven has a decent height, more material will be required for it.

The characteristics of this mini-oven model consist of the following parameters:

AT this case the design of the furnace, as well as the structure of the “Krokha”, can be divided into two sections: the upper one is the gas outlet, and the lower one is the furnace. The upper part of the furnace - "cap", consists of vertical channels connected to each other by horizontal ones. Due to this feature, warm air lingers inside the structure longer, warming up the entire area of ​​its side walls.

To build this model, you will need the materials listed in this table:

Name of materials and components	Size in mm	Quantity, pcs.
Red brick		260
Chamotte brick SHA-8 for the furnace department		130
Cast iron grate	250×400	1
Cast iron blower door	140×200	1
Cast iron furnace door	200×300	1
Cleaning doors	140×200	2
flue damper	130×310	2
Roofing felt sheet for waterproofing	1000x600	2
Metal sheet for flooring under the stove and in front of the firebox	500×700	1

To simplify the work, the masters use special ordering schemes that you need to focus on when laying each row.

Prices for chimney valves

chimney valves

This ordering scheme shows the laying of the furnace from the first to the twelfth row. Construction can be carried out on an equipped foundation or on a prepared waterproofed concrete floor. Since the design is quite massive and bulky in height, it will not work to install it on a wooden floor.

• The roofing felt is laid under the masonry in two layers, and in order to simplify the alignment of the first row, on waterproofing material can be drawn in chalk using a long ruler, the border of the base.
• When laying the first row, we must not forget that the horizontality and verticality of the furnace walls will depend on its quality and accuracy. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to prepare control tools - a plumb line and a building level. Some masters also practice stretching horizontal cords for each of the rows.
• As you can see in the diagram, a blower door is mounted on the second row, a vertical chimney channel is formed.
• On the fifth row of masonry, a grate is being installed, which will block the blower chamber and mark the bottom of the combustion chamber. Starting from the fifth and ending with the 15th row, the masonry is done with fireclay bricks.
• On the sixth row, in front of the grate, a furnace door is installed and fixed with wire.

Prices for roofing material

ruberoid

• The following diagram represents the order, starting from the 13th and ending with the 24th row. This shows the gradual formation of vertical channels and a combustion chamber, so it is very important to masonry in accordance with the scheme. Otherwise, all the work may be spoiled, and it will have to be redone.
• Having finished the laying of the fifteenth row and the walls of the sixteenth, a clay-cement mixture is laid out in the resulting space, and the door of the cleaning chamber is also installed. Further, up to the 25th row, the masonry is made according to the ordering scheme.

• On the 25th row, the bottom of the second cleaning chamber is formed. To do this, a layer of clay-sand mixture is laid out on top of the brickwork of the 24th row. Then the cleaning chamber door is mounted.
• On the 28th and 32nd rows, two chimney valves are laid, with which it will be possible to adjust the draft.
• The remaining rows are laid according to the scheme, and from the 35th row, the laying of the chimney pipe begins.

Heating and cooking "Swede" - a detailed description of the laying of the furnace

General description and required materials

In the final section, a fairly popular Swedish stove model will be presented. It was chosen for a detailed description, since, with its simple design and compact size, it is multifunctional and very comfortable to use.

This version of the heating and cooking stove has a good location of all functional elements - they are located on one front side of the building. Therefore, such a “Swede” is usually installed in such a way that the hob, oven, drying niches and, of course, the combustion chamber go towards the kitchen, and the even back brick wall, which warms up perfectly during the furnace, into the living room.

The dimensions of this design are 1020 × 885 × 2030 mm, with a capacity of 2750 kcal / h, so the stove is able to heat one or two rooms up to 30 square meters. m.

The presented version of the "Swede" was created for certain operating conditions. So, it was created for heating country house, 4000 × 7000 mm in size, erected from silicate bricks or blocks. However, this model is also suitable for houses with other sizes, as evidenced by its heat transfer parameters.

• Wood, as well as other types of solid fuels, can be used as fuel for this stove.
• In this model, only the inner lining of the combustion chamber and the areas located next to it are carried out. Therefore, fireclay bricks will not violate the aesthetic appearance of the furnace facade, made of high-quality red bricks. Its external finishing is not provided.
• In order for the stove to be efficient and meet the heat transfer characteristics, its walls must be relatively thick (half a brick), so placing bricks on spoons is not allowed.
• In this design, laying the drying chamber is required.

If you decide to use this development, first you should consider the table necessary materials and calculate their cost for your region of residence.

You may be interested in information about which one is better to use when building fireplaces and stoves.

Table of materials that are needed to build a heating and cooking "Swede":

Name of materials and components	Size (mm)	Quantity (piece)
Red solid kiln brick (excluding pipe height)	250×120×60	551
Fireclay refractory brick Sh-8	250×124×65	31
Blower door	140×250	1
Furnace door	210×250	1
Doors for cleaning chambers	140×140	3
Oven	450×250×290	1
Cast iron double burner hob	410×710	1
grate	200×300	1
flue damper	130×250	1
Steam damper	130×130	1
Steel corner	45×45×5×1020	1
Steel strip	45×45×5×700	1
Steel strip	45×45×5×905	5
Steel strip	50×5×650	2
Shelf for dryer	190×340	1
Metal sheet for drying chambers	800×905×0.5÷1	1
Pre-furnace metal sheet	500×700×1.5÷2	1
Asbestos sheet or twine for laying between brick and metal elements.	5mm thick	1

Step-by-step instructions for laying a heating and cooking "Swede"

Illustration	Description of the work procedure
	The first solid row, consisting of 28 red bricks, must have a perfectly flat surface and right angles, as it is the basis on which all other vertical and horizontal planes and rows will be oriented.
	The second row is laid out from 28 ½ red bricks, also in solid masonry, but its pattern has a slightly different configuration. This moment must be taken into account when carrying out work, because the seams between the laying of the lower first row should not coincide with the seams between the bricks of the upper second row. In other words, the bricks are supposed to be laid in a run-up, with overlapping seams.
	On the third row, the formation of the lower heating chamber begins, which will be located under the oven, and the blower. Vertical flue ducts are also beginning to form. Laying out a row, they leave peculiar windows for installing the doors of the cleaning chambers for vertical channels, as well as the blower and the lower heating chamber. After completing the installation of this row, cast-iron doors are fixed in the windows. After that, work is done inside the structure - two whole and two three-quarter bricks are mounted on spoons. Moreover, at the brick, installed in the right vertical channel, the angle is squeezed, for more unhindered air circulation. In addition, a fourth part of refractory fireclay bricks is installed in the first chimney channel - in the figure it is highlighted in yellow. For laying this row, you will need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones.
	Fourth row. At this stage, channels and chambers continue to form, according to the scheme, with the chimney channels still remaining united. For a row, you need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones.
	When working on the fifth row, the previously installed doors overlap. The side walls of the bottom of the combustion chamber are laid out with fireclay bricks. Moreover, in the brick, which will be laid on the sides, it is necessary to cut steps for laying the grate. The second and third vertical channels remain combined, but are separated from the right first channel. For the installation of this row, you need to prepare 8 fireclay and 16 red bricks.
	The sixth row is laid out according to the drawing. At this stage, the second and third flue ducts are separated from each other, and three separate ducts should now form at the back of the furnace. The base for the oven and the inner walls of the firebox are laid out with fireclay bricks - it is installed on a spoon. The wall between the niche for oven and the fuel chamber is built from quarters of fireclay bricks. Next comes the stage of mounting the firebox door, also in the window left for it between the bricks. The door frame must be wrapped with asbestos material so that a compensation gap remains between it and the brick for the expansion of the metal when it is heated. Temporarily, the door can be supported with stacks of loose bricks until it is firmly fixed by the next rows of masonry. In addition to the door, an oven is installed, also previously wrapped in asbestos. For laying this row and internal arrangement niches will require 13 red and 3½ fireclay bricks.
	For greater clarity, this figure shows the laid out sixth row with the oven box installed.
	On the seventh row, the furnace and oven chambers continue to form - the inner lining is fire-resistant, and the outer masonry is red brick. Chamotte brick is installed on a spoon, red on the bed (flat). For work, you need 13 red and 4 fireclay bricks.
	On the eighth row, the first chimney channel is separated from the chamber, where the oven box is installed, with fireclay bricks. The rest of the masonry goes according to the presented scheme, and it uses 5 fireclay and 13 red bricks.
	Ninth row. On the this stage the door of the combustion chamber is blocked with a brick. The rest of the work is carried out according to the scheme shown, and for them you need to prepare 5 fireclay and 13½ red bricks.
	On the tenth row, the oven is covered with masonry. The wall between the oven and the firebox is not laid out. A 10×10 mm step is cut into the refractory brick, which is installed along the inner perimeter of the front of the furnace, for laying the cast-iron hob. This row will require 4½ fireclay and 15 red bricks.
	Having laid out the tenth row, an asbestos cord is laid on a step carved in fireclay bricks around the entire perimeter of the inner space. Then, the hob itself is mounted - it should be located on the same level with the outer walls of the furnace, built of red brick. In front of the laid slab, on the front wall, a steel corner (45 × 45 × 1020 mm) is mounted, designed to protect the brick corner from damage and to generally strengthen the row.
	On the 11th row, the walls of the cooking chamber are formed. The gap that has formed between the hob and the right wall of the furnace is filled with a brick, which is mounted across the masonry of the 10th row. For work, you need to prepare 16 pieces of red brick.
	For the 12th row, 15 red bricks will be required - the masonry passes according to the presented scheme.
	The 13th and 14th rows are laid out according to the shown ordinal pattern. For the 13th row, you will need 15½, and for the 14th - 14½ bricks. Here it must be taken into account that the seams between the bricks of the lower row must be covered with a whole brick, which means that the 14th row will have a pattern different from the 13th.
	The 15th and 16th rows are also stacked according to the ordering scheme. For them, you need to prepare: for the 15th row - 16, and for the 16th - 14½ red bricks.
	After completing the laying of the 16th row, the cooking chamber must be blocked with three steel corners measuring 45 × 45 × 905 mm. In the middle part of the space above the chamber, two corners are laid side by side, with vertical walls to each other, and one corner at the end of the chamber. In addition to them, the front part of the chamber is covered with a strip measuring 45 × 45 × 700 mm. These elements form a reliable support for covering the chamber with bricks, so the corners must be laid at a distance of 255 mm from each other.
	The masonry of the 17th row consists of 25½ bricks that cover the space of the cooking chamber. Moreover, in the far left corner of the overlap, a hole is left for extracting vapors from the cooking chamber - its size should be half a brick. In addition to the overlap, the laying of vertical channels continues.
	The 18th row is laid out almost completely, but the exhaust and vertical channels remain open. To work, you need 25 bricks.
	After that, a steel corner measuring 45 × 45 × 905 mm is installed on the front edge of the masonry. This element is designed to strengthen the ceiling of the exhaust chamber window, as it must withstand two rows of upper masonry.
	On the 19th row, small and large drying niches begin to form, as well as a continuation of the ventilation duct designed to remove vapors from the lower cooking chamber. The work is proceeding according to the scheme, and 16 red bricks need to be prepared for laying.
	The 20th row also consists of 16 bricks and is mounted according to the diagram shown.
	The 21st row consists of 16½ red bricks. It is laid out according to the diagram shown.
	The 22nd row is laid out from 16 red bricks.
	After laying out the 22nd row, a metal plate 190 × 340 mm in size is mounted on a small drying chamber, which will act as a heated shelf.
	23rd row. At this stage, the walls of the chimney channels and drying chambers continue to rise. A cutout is made on the brick laid above the steam channel, into which a valve will be mounted that regulates the heating of the cooking chamber. The next step is to install a valve having a size of 140 × 140 mm on the prepared seat. For this series, you need to prepare 17 red bricks.
	On the 24th row, the ventilation valve is blocked, as well as the union of the first and second chimney channels. You will need 15½ bricks to work on this row.
	On the 25th row, three vertical channels are combined into one. For this row, you need to prepare 15½ red bricks.
	The 26th row consists of 16½ bricks and is laid according to the pattern shown.
	Further, on the same 26th row, the drying chambers are covered with a steel corner having a size of 45 × 45 × 905 mm and two steel strips measuring 50 × 5 × 650 mm. The corner, laid on the front side of the drying chambers, is intended to increase the rigidity of the structure, and, together with the steel strips, to create the basis for the steel sheet overlapping the chambers.
	A sheet of metal measuring 800 × 905 mm is laid on top of the steel strips and the corner. It covers the surface of the chambers and vertical ventilation ducts, except for one chimney duct, which will receive smoke from all other ducts. A chimney will be built above it.
	On the 27th row, solid brickwork is arranged on top of the metal sheet. It should protrude beyond the perimeter of the furnace section by 25 mm. For laying this row, 32 bricks are required.
	The 28th row completely overlaps the previous one and protrudes beyond its limits by another 25 mm. The flue outlet remains open. To lay out this row, 37 red bricks will be needed.
	Row 29 will require 26½ red bricks. They are laid out indented inward by 50 mm from the edge of the previous row, essentially bringing it to the size of the perimeter of the furnace base.
	The 30th row of laying the furnace is already the first row of the chimney overhead pipe. A row consists of 5 red bricks. In the upper part of the side bricks laid in this row, a 10 × 10 mm step is cut out - it will serve as a seat for the chimney valve, 250 × 130 mm in size. Further, the valve frame itself is mounted on the clay mortar.
	The 31st row is the second row of the chimney. It overlaps the edges of the chimney valve, thus fixing it from above. The row also consists of 5 bricks. Above, work on the construction of the chimney will already begin.

The lower scheme with a section of the structure of this furnace shows the direction of circulation of the products of combustion of the fuel. It clearly shows that hot gas flows, thanks to vertical channels, cover the entire surface of the furnace, heating it, and from a well-heated surface, heat is effectively transferred to the heated room.

Stove heating as a way of heating private households is still popular. Since it is quite difficult to find a professional stove-maker, many owners of suburban real estate are forced to master the construction of brick ovens with their own hands.

To build a heating unit in accordance with all the rules and regulations, homeowners will need to stock up on the relevant knowledge and skills, prepare tools and purchase Construction Materials for a significant amount.

Types of ovens

A do-it-yourself brick stove for the home can be:

• Russian;
• Swedish
• Dutch.

Furnaces are also distinguished:

• bath;
• garden;
• heating;
• heating and cooking;
• fireplaces.

Russian stove

Among stove-makers, it is considered the most multifunctional brick construction. It is equipped with a place to relax, called a couch. Under it is a cooking chamber - a furnace or crucible, under which there is a blower. It must ensure continuous combustion. solid fuel. Such do-it-yourself brick ovens for the home also have a niche for kitchen utensils and keeping cooked food hot.

The standard dimensions of this type of furnace units are: 2 meters high, 2.5 meters long and 1.5 meters wide. Due to its impressive size, the Russian stove is able to heat a living space, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwhich exceeds 40 "squares". But it also has a big drawback - it requires a lot of solid fuel to function.

swedish stove

Its dimensions are more compact compared to the Russian stove. The height of the Swedish brick structure is approximately 2 meters, and the length and width are no more than a meter. This small do-it-yourself brick oven is intended for:

• for space heating;
• for cooking food.

Above the furnace of the Swedish unit, a cast-iron stove is placed on 2 burners, and an oven is placed on the side. In the process of building a stove in the kitchen, a stove is built, and the rest of it is equipped in another room.

A serious design flaw is the high degree of fire hazard. To prevent fire, the Swedish stove is equipped with dampers.

dutch oven

This type of furnace units owes its appearance to Russian stove-makers, it was they who invented it. The "Dutch" is intended for heat supply of premises. The stove is very compact and has a high degree of heat transfer. It will take 10 hours to completely warm up a cold room with it.

During the off-season, a do-it-yourself Dutch brick stove is able to retain heat for a day. Its structural device provides high heat transfer due to the winding chimney. In addition, the stove has a capacious firebox.

"Dutch" is erected only with the use of oven bricks, which accumulate heat quickly and release it gradually. This building material for the construction of furnaces is very expensive.

How to lay out the oven and what is needed for this

Having considered the projects of furnaces and having made a choice, you can proceed to the next stage. Apart from design decoration, the furnace design must comply with fire safety requirements, therefore the stage of preparation for its construction is so important, which involves:

1. Development of a detailed scheme for laying a furnace with or without a stove.
2. Determination of the installation site of the structure.
3. Choice of materials.
4. A selection of tools.
5. Preparation of construction cost estimates.

In addition to the above activities, you need to determine the number of auxiliary workers, and perhaps they are not needed.

The final result of construction depends on how well the project of a house with stove heating is developed. Now you can not develop schemes - do-it-yourself furnace drawings, but purchase ready-made documentation. When choosing such a project, it is necessary to verify the reliability of the figures indicated in it, and it will not hurt to make sure that there is a step-by-step detailed description of the construction.

When choosing the location of the furnace, first of all, pay attention to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and the design of the furnace. Since the process of laying out a brick oven in a country house or in a house has many nuances, experienced stove-makers advise novice craftsmen to build reduced models of future units.

Thanks to this, you can prepare for the upcoming laying and minimize errors and miscalculations. When complex stove designs are chosen, laying stoves with your own hands for inexperienced craftsmen can be overwhelming. In this case, you should seek help from professionals.

Selection and purchase of building materials

Regardless of what type of furnace is to be built, the same materials are used - these are bricks, clay, sand. The main attention should be paid to the choice of bricks.

4 types of bricks for the construction of furnace units are offered for sale:

• manual molding;
• ceramic;
• refractory;
• silicate.

Ceramic products are used for facing the unit. It is advisable to purchase brick M-250 or M-500, which is more expensive, but more homogeneous than cheap products. It is able to withstand repeated heating-cooling cycles. Expensive brick has another advantage - excellent forming properties and decorative qualities.

Sand, when a brick stove for a summer residence or private household is built with your own hands, must be taken clean, without debris and various impurities, and therefore it must be sifted through a sieve.

Clay for furnace units is normal, skinny or oily. The proportions of mortar preparation and the bricklaying technology depend on which variety it is chosen. Stove makers prefer to use clay that has a normal fat content.

Instrument preparation

To fold a stove with your own hands in a country house or in a residential building, you will need different tools: construction, measuring and auxiliary.

From building tools needed:

• for cutting bricks - grinder;
• for sifting sand - a metal sieve with a cell of no more than 2 millimeters;
• shovel;
• to seal the solution - jointing;
• for laying the mixture - combined kerma;
• perforator plus mixer nozzle to it;
• for cutting bricks - a hammer-pick.

You also need to prepare measuring tools:

• tape measure at least 5 meters long;
• to control verticality - plumb;
• a wooden stove ruler about a meter long;
• to check the evenness of laying - the rule (there can be no gaps between it and the wall);
• building and flexible levels.

Auxiliary tools include buckets, containers, etc.

Arrangement of the base for a brick oven

When we put the stove with our own hands, first of all, they provide a distance between the chimney and the roof covering, equal to at least 15 centimeters. Then you can start marking the foundation, which should exceed the parameters of the furnace structure in all directions by 15 centimeters.

It is better to form it when arranging a common house foundation. In order for the stove to serve for a long time, its foundation should not be connected with the foundation of the household. The fact is that their natural shrinkage differs due to varying degrees of stress.

First, the foundation pit is poured with concrete, and then the foundation for the furnace is built of bricks. Pre-install wooden formwork.

When the base is ready, its upper level should be 19 centimeters below the floor surface. The foundation is not built for the fireplace, but the load on the floor of the upper floors is calculated. The base will certainly be waterproofed using roofing material or roofing felt.

Brick oven for home

First of all, you need to study the drawings of the stove with your own hands made of bricks. Then they prepare the solution and lay the first row with a spatula and trowel. Often, novice home craftsmen are sure that they should not "spare" the solution. In fact, on the contrary - the thinner the layer, the stronger the brickwork will be.

The work is carried out as follows:

1. With one hand hold the brick on weight.
2. Applying light blows, make a mark of the place of the chip.
3. Holding the brick in weight, perform its sharp and precise cutting into pieces according to the marked marks.
4. When they build a wood-burning stove for a summer residence or at home with their own hands, the first row must be laid out impeccably. First, the outer row of bricks is laid, then the middle, and the seams are carefully filled with mortar, preventing the formation of voids.
5. The initial rows are built from the whole material, while the vertical seams should not coincide. But then the bricks need to be cut. They are laid with the chopped side inside the structure array. This point is important in the construction of chimney channels and the firebox. The fact is that chips will be a place where soot accumulates, clogging the chimney.

Features of the construction of arches and vaults with their own hands

When arches and vaults are being built, they also use the drawings of a brick oven with their own hands for a summer residence or other structure. Bricks are laid according to the technology of gradual lapping, and at least two rows thick.

The thickness of such an overlap cannot be less than 2 rows. For the opening of the firebox, a “castle” layout or masonry using the “jumper” method is used - bricks are installed vertically on a metal corner. A metal product can be exchanged for a wooden frame.

For the construction of the pipe, silicate brick is used, which can withstand temperature extremes and precipitation. It is resistant to the acidic environment formed by the contact of smoke and water vapor. It is important that there are no bumps and chips in the chimney. When the furnace design is ready, after 2 - 3 weeks a control furnace is carried out.

Large and small do-it-yourself brick ovens in private homes are popular. But the main thing is to build the unit correctly so that it lasts for decades.

About ten years ago, fireplaces began to be massively sold - these are beautiful fireboxes of various sizes, made with a variety of decorative trim. Due to the variety of types of portals, such fireplaces began to be installed in almost all private houses. Their beauty and high safety (the furnace is closed under glass) attracted many. For several years, they have successfully replaced the old Russian stoves. Till today…

Some history and facts

The stove is part of Russian folklore! There is no exact information when the prototypes of these structures first appeared. However, at first they had a completely different look, little resembling the Russians we are used to. And only recently people began to build them in their design and appearance similar to their counterparts. Today, such structures are part of houses in Russian villages, where there is only stove heating and there is no question of any gas. People use them to heat the house, cook on them, heat food and bake.

What does a traditional Russian stove with a lounger consist of?

The Russian stove is quite massive, its weight reaches several hundred kilograms, so it needs a foundation. In the old days, its role was played by old stones and logs, which were laid out in the base. Today it is reinforced concrete or brick masonry.

It is better to plan construction at the stage of creating a house project. If the building already exists, the foundation still needs to be made strong!

Main elements:

• The lower part is the base (sub-heaters). It has a niche for storing fuel or kitchen utensils. With the help of this base, the combustion chamber rises to the desired height.
• A vault-trough covers the top of the ovens. A layer of sand or clay is poured on it. This technology is used to retain heat.
• The bottom of the firebox (under) is made with a slight slope towards the back wall. This is done so that the fuel burns evenly in the chamber.
• The furnace fire chamber consists of two parts: a cooking chamber and a firebox. The cooking chamber is clean without logs and ash, since the fuel is placed in the far chamber - the firebox.
• Above the firebox there is a vault - this is the overlap that separates the firebox and the lower part of the lounger.
• The lounger can be built along the entire length of the firebox. When a fire burns there, heat spreads to the sunbed.
• The chimney is installed above the first chamber where the food is prepared. Along its course, a valve and a viewing window are installed. With the help of a damper, the intensity of combustion of fuel in the furnace is regulated.

Depending on the design features, they may have steps leading to the sunbed. Also, small shelves are often made along the chimney in order to install decor there.

Modern Russian stoves: what are they?

They may vary in size and functionality. Traditional options have dimensions: length - 2.5 meters, width - 1.5 meters. Products can be of different sizes:

• small (178*124 cm);
• medium (213*147 cm);
• (231*160 cm).

In rare cases, furnaces can be built to non-standard dimensions.

But the old ones suited few people - an unattractive appearance, the possibility of cooking only inside the hearth, limited opportunities. Thanks to the work of craftsmen and changes in designs, Russian stoves have regained popularity. They have everything you need to heat your home, cook food and even more.

So the latest additions:

• equipped with a cooking floor. Such designs are multifunctional and can replace any cooking surfaces and stoves;
• with a fireplace. This option is a new trend. Its peculiarity is that the back wall of the furnace structure is displayed in another room through the wall. Thus, it turns out that two are combined in one design: a fireplace with a flame effect and all the great sounds of crackling firewood, as well as a classic Russian stove that heats the house, has a firebox for cooking and a stove for cooking;
• with a bed. In the classic versions, it was very large. Three people could fit on the sunbed. An analogue has a sunbed, but only reduced. It is enough for a comfortable arrangement of one person. However, this disadvantage can be easily compensated by an attached trestle bed.

According to fire safety rules, all furniture and appliances must be at a distance of 1 meter from the firebox!

Pros and cons of designs

In addition to beauty and warmth, they have some advantages:

• uniform heat transfer and its accumulation;
• high level of efficiency;
• bottom heating. Classical variants were deprived of this. Only after some time, the builders modified the stoves, making them more practical to use. This feature makes it possible to heat the room as a whole;
• high security. Since all structures are laid out of brick, the walls of the furnace do not heat up to such a temperature as to cause a fire or burn;
• built-in hob. Enables housewives to prepare food in their usual way;
• long service life. Properly made design can serve more than 30 years.

Minuses:

• will have to procure solid fuel for the winter;
• firewood will have to be dried, since it is impossible to put wet firewood in the firebox;
• when heating a house with a Russian stove, excessive garbage from the fuel occurs.

It is impossible to call the Russian stove an ideal device - it has positive sides and non-deliveries. For example, in order to learn how to cook in it, housewives will have to go through a long stage of training. For ignition, firewood will be required, which will have to be harvested. It's certainly not electrical or gas boilers to which everyone is so accustomed. But, the Russian stove also has a lot of positive aspects:

• There is an opportunity to cook great meals. They turn out very tasty and differ from those cooked on stoves;
• depending on the design features, the Russian stove can be equipped with a lounger, which makes it possible to comfortably relax in the cold season. It can also have shelves;
• and finally, the flame effect, the sound of crackling logs and flickering fire - no device can replace this.

Russian stoves in the interior

Despite the development of technology and the appearance on the market of fashionable cast-iron fireboxes, which are framed in various decorative portals, the Russian stove is still popular. Of course, it has changed not only externally, but also structurally. It has become more practical, convenient and safe, in addition, construction technologies and materials are used in its design that can increase efficiency, as well as the aesthetic component.

Advantages

Wooden houses - the basis of architecture ancient Russia. And, despite the development of technology and the emergence of building materials from which buildings are built, wood still occupies a special place. Such houses are filled with comfort, and the Russian stove only complements the extraordinary spiritual atmosphere. Installation of a Russian stove in wooden house must be carried out in compliance with the safety requirements established by our legislation.

brick

Brick is a classic. Previously, such structures were built from home-made clay bricks, which were fired at the stake. Products are large due to the presence of a hob, a baking compartment, a lounger for relaxation.

Brick is a classic

Advantages:

• Brick cools down longer than all other materials. A furnace built from it will give off heat longer after the fire is extinguished. As a result, the rooms will remain warm for a long time.
• The large design is able to heat even big house on several floors. This is possible if it is installed in the middle of the house, and the chimney is led up inside the walls that separate the rooms on the second floor. Today, the chimney is no longer made from ordinary brickwork. It is made from galvanized or stainless steel pipes that run in the middle of a compartment located inside the walls. And if ventilation grills are made in the compartments along the chimney, then the heat emanating from the chimney will spread throughout the premises.
• The brick does not heat up to a temperature that can create a fire. This building material is quite durable and practical. It can be used as a base for applying decorative plaster, pasting tiles and other finishing materials. In addition, it is able to serve without restoration for 30 years.
• The cost of such a design is not high in comparison with the purchase of a cast-iron firebox and a marble portal. It is worth noting that most of the cost is devoted to creating a quality foundation.

Unfortunately, like others, brick ones are not without flaws. The main one can be attributed to the fact that for a brick structure it will be necessary to build a powerful foundation. It can be monolithic or reinforced concrete structure. If you install a brick without a foundation, the floor under its mass can sag.

Precautionary measures

A Russian brick oven can not be installed in all parts of the house. The place directly depends on the structural features of the building. It is better when the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bbuilding appears at the stage of designing a house. Then it is possible to correctly calculate the location, as well as make an appropriate foundation.

If the house has already been built, then it will be necessary to disassemble the floor in the place where the hearth will be installed to the base and make scaffolding.

Other options

Among the variety of options for installing heating systems in wooden houses, it is worth highlighting two main ones:

Fireplace stoves- iron fireboxes with a large viewing window. They can have a hob and are not framed by anything. Minus - the walls of the structure are very hot and can cause burns or fire.

Cast iron fireboxes- beautiful fireplaces that can heat large rooms. Many manufacturers make fireboxes of different sizes, having lifting mechanisms to open the firebox, the protective glass can be oval, prismatic or straight. The furnaces are equipped with a sliding damper, a mechanism for adjusting the intensity of combustion. Minus - the high cost of furnaces and portals.

AT recent times these options have become less commonly used for installation in private homes. Despite their attractiveness, they are inferior to traditional Russian stoves in many respects.

decorative trim

Building materials make it possible to finish the furnace in the most different styles. In addition, they have a beneficial effect on the stability of the brick, as well as the solutions used in its laying to various negative influences.

Truly Russian style: hut and tiles

In the old days, one material was traditionally used - this is a mud hut (plaster made on the basis of clay). Then it was covered with ordinary whitewash. This method of finishing is not durable, since during kindling, smoke settles on the surface, making the whitewash gray. Although it is necessary to highlight the beauty of the painting of such stoves, attractiveness and a truly Russian style. At present, rarely anyone uses this method of decoration, as practicality is increasingly preferred.

The most common classic option is decor with ceramic elements made in the form of boxes. The main advantage of this material is attractiveness, as well as practicality. Tiles are able to retain their original appearance for a long time. The main disadvantage is the high price

.

Peculiarities:

• lining is laid from the bottom up;
• a special gypsum composition is used for grouting;
• There are a variety of tile patterns on the market. It can be both smooth tiles and embossed with different patterns.

Using tiles for decoration, it is possible to choose the desired color, pattern, relief so that it fits the overall style of the room. This is best material for finishing furnaces in the Russian style.

Modern materials

A variety of materials makes it possible to decorate a Russian stove in any style. All this allows it to harmoniously fit into absolutely any interior. Among the most common it is worth highlighting:

These materials are very practical and reliable. To give them the new kind just wipe the surface with a damp cloth. However, they are not without drawbacks. Some, such as ceramic tiles or granite, cannot fit harmoniously into any style.

Plaster and paint

The plaster and paint look very nice. This method of decoration for interiors in a minimalist style. In this case, the choice of color and texture is limited only by the flight of fancy and the general style of the room. With the help of paint and plaster, you can visually reduce the size of the furnace or, on the contrary, increase it. Plaster and paint are often used to create Russian-style decor. It allows you to make various drawings and patterns on its surface.

Return of traditions

It cannot be said that the Russian stove in the house is a museum piece that unexpectedly returned from the past. In fact, it has not disappeared anywhere, moreover, it is part of some Russian hinterlands that are unfamiliar with main gas.

The mass return of the Russian nurse to the houses spoiled by civilization is not a tribute to fashion. Most likely, the desire of people to feel comfortable and cozy in the house, fill it with a pleasant aroma of pastries and meet the family in front of an open fire for a delicious dinner cooked in a real Russian oven plays a role here. After all, not a single miracle of technology will give those sensations and emotions that people experience at the sight of a flame.

A Russian stove, finished with high-quality material, does not look like an alien in the house. Today it has become more compact, practical and durable. A wood-burning stove, depending on its design features, is placed not only in the kitchen, but also in the living room, dining room. For the convenience of housewives, craftsmen integrate everything necessary into them, up to hoods.

A Russian stove without built-in hobs can easily take central location in the library, bedroom. A lounger can easily replace even the most comfortable armchair or even a sofa.

To choose the most suitable project for your home, you need to consider several options in detail. They differ in size, functionality, and of course cost.

Arrangement of the Russian stove in country house This is a job for professionals only. Regardless of the skills in construction, the construction of such a structure requires not only skills, but also knowledge of features, as well as technologies.

"Ala-rus" - designer hit

This model has a fairly compact size. It does not have additional equipment, such as a hob, a large lounger, or the ability to observe the flame effect. This option is suitable for small kitchen. Such a stove is decorated with decorative elements that are associated with Russia. It looks light and charming in a wooden house. Peculiarities:

• despite the primary simplicity of decor, such a stove should not be overloaded with accessories. A few decorations will suffice;
• it can be installed not only under the wall. Due to its compactness, it will look good in the center of the kitchen, if the area allows.

This option is budget. And if you want a Russian stove in the house, but at the same time the means do not allow luxury, you can stop at this option.

Russian hut - classic style

This design is best suited for rustic-style houses. These can be buildings made of logs, wood, or have an appropriate interior. The classic style is a stove made of brick, finished with decorative elements.

An excellent option would be to use tiles. They are able to decorate the stove and give it a native Russian flavor. Such ovens are functional - there is a hob, a large and comfortable lounger. You can install it in such a way that the functional part is in the kitchen, and the decorative firebox is in the living room. This will make it possible to enjoy the effect of an open flame and a slight crackle of firewood.

Terem - wealth and luxury

A large Russian stove, reminiscent of illustrations from old Russian fairy tales. The design, made in this style - a bright accent in any room. It will look beautiful both in a classic interior and in a modern one.

Characteristics:

• decoration with a huge number of tiles is allowed. They will only add fabulousness to the design;
• the design is quite large, so it is suitable only for large rooms;
• can use many other decorative decorations, they will not overload the design.

This model can be equipped hob, a large lounger that can be decorated with light fabrics. Often, designers suggest installing it near the wall and taking the furnace part to the next room. This will make it possible to get a multifunctional Russian stove in the kitchen and a beautiful fireplace in the living room at the same time.

Where to install a Russian stove?

Today it is difficult to surprise someone with the presence of a fireplace or a cast-iron firebox. Almost all country houses are built with these structures in mind. But the Russian stove will cause not only surprise, but also admiration.

At the moment when the question arises of installing it in a country house, nuances immediately arise that no one had thought about before.

It is better when the issue of installing a Russian stove is decided at the planning stage of a country house, since there are nuances that are better to solve right away.

In the living room

The living room is the calling card of any home and private house not an exception. In this room, it will be a bright accent that attracts the eye. Therefore, you do not need to look for too modest design options. Its size must be chosen depending on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthis room.

All pieces of furniture should be at a distance from the structure.

Depending on the interior and the size of the room, stoves can be of different designs with or without a hob. Stoves can be installed in the living room:

• If it is large and has a fairly bright design, for example, decorated with tiles, all other furniture in the living room should be in muted colors. Do not use bright decor, rich colors. Then they will not distract attention from the main element in this room. The bed can be decorated with blankets handmade, beautiful and bright pillows . The light is better to use muted. They have additional shelves and a large bed. There is no cooking surface and baking compartments - only one compartment for cooking.
• The Russian stove in the interior should look more modest. For decoration, you can use artificial stone, porcelain stoneware, tiles. The strict design of the stove is in harmony with expensive furniture. Such designs should not have a hob and baking compartments. But the presence of a large couch is mandatory.
• The main part of the stove is in the kitchen, and the furnace part is taken out into the living room. The furnace part can be framed in marble if the interior of the living room matches or it can be made similar to a fireplace. In addition to it, you can install special sets for the fireplace: firewood, broom, scoop, poker. In the immediate vicinity of it, you can put a beautiful carpet on the floor or install a soft and cozy sofa. However, do not forget about the rules of fire safety. If the firebox is open, you need to install a protective mesh or glass.

Installation in the kitchen

The choice of a Russian stove for the kitchen depends on the size of the room. If it is large, you can install a large oven that will be multifunctional:

• baking department;
• cooking surface of several plates;
• compartment for dishes;
• large bed for several people.

If you choose a design for a wooden house, it is better to give preference to a truly Russian style. The decor can be done in several ways: using building materials (plaster and paint) or traditional mud hut. Such designs will harmoniously look and fill the kitchen with coziness and comfort.

The kitchen is the perfect place for this product

Features and nuances:

• Do not install household appliances in the immediate vicinity of the stove. This may cause a fire.
• The dining area should be in the distance. Otherwise, it will be very hot to be at the table.
• The kitchen should be bright and spacious. Therefore, if its dimensions are insufficient, it is better to leave the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bbuilding.
• The Russian stove in the kitchen should not be overloaded with unnecessary decorative elements. She herself will act as a bright accent.
• If this room is spacious enough, you can use bright decor on the stove. These can be Russian-style decorations or tiles with beautiful patterns.

Conclusion

A Russian stove in a country house is an opportunity to fill it with warmth and comfort. However, before its construction, everything must be carefully planned, especially if the construction will be carried out already in a residential building.

Pitfalls that can be encountered during construction:

• Such a design will harmoniously look only in rooms with a large area. Otherwise, there is a chance to turn the kitchen or living room into a room of aesthetic shame.
• Do not console yourself with the hope that you can build such a structure yourself without skills in construction. Here are some examples of how one wrong step can spoil the whole creation. The chimney must be at a certain distance from the ridge, and depending on this, have a certain length. Otherwise, all the smoke and fumes will not be in the chimney, but in your room. The foundation must be calculated to the smallest detail, otherwise you risk the integrity of your floor.
• In view of this, construction should be trusted only to professionals. You can only choose the design of the furnace, the availability of certain functionalities.

The Russian stove in the house brings not only color, but also many opportunities, but only if it is built by professionals. Advantages of the Russian stove in the house:

• The food cooked in the hearth of the oven cannot be compared in taste with any other. Not a single restaurant in Russia will prepare such delicious pastries or other dishes for you.
• If the stove is properly built, it is able to heat not only the first floor of your house, but also the second, third. But only along the chimney. However, the first floor, even with severe frost, will be warm.
• The Russian stove will heat the room much faster than fireplaces, gas heating or any other.

If you are thinking about arranging a stove in your home, plan everything carefully, think it over. Only the right approach to the construction of a Russian stove will give the expected result. The work should be entrusted to professionals who have experience in construction and know everything about the construction and installation features of such structures.

Away from cities, the issue of heating is acute. The comfort of living and the health of people depends on its decision. Most stoves for a brick house not only warm the air, but also make it possible to cook food. To maintain the optimum air temperature, 1-2 heatings per day are enough.

1. Features of functioning
2. Rules for selection and operation
3. Do-it-yourself installation
4. Reviews
5. Advantages and disadvantages

Principle of operation, design features

A brick oven, unlike a metal one, is able to accumulate heat. It heats up for a long time, but it also does not cool down quickly, continuing to heat the house for 8–20 hours. Combustion products are discharged through brick chimney channels and a pipe using natural draft. The flow of air comes from the room, ventilation must not be neglected. The complex device of the chimney and channels provides additional heat transfer. After the wood burns out, the draft is stopped by closing the damper in the pipe.

In the process of kindling a traditional brick oven for a private house, it is allowed to use any type of solid, liquid or gaseous fuel, if it is safe for health, not explosive and does not cause overheating of the structure.

If necessary, the combustion chamber is equipped with special devices. The best fuel for a stove is dry firewood from dense woods. When they are burned, ash is formed, falling through the grate into a separate compartment with a door. Sometimes the grate is missing, soot remains in the furnace.

The maximum heating efficiency of the house is achieved in the case of a central location of the masonry, in which each room has a part of it. The installation location assumes the absence of combustible materials closer than 50 cm; the possibility of erection brick chimney through the ceiling and forming a foundation on solid ground under the floor.

Classification by purpose

There are several main types of brick ovens: heating, cooking and combined.
The first ones spend all their heat on heating one room or several rooms in the house. Connecting a water circuit expands their potential. Cookers are installed mainly in summer kitchens for cooking, drying mushrooms and berries, in terms of weight and dimensions they are inferior to heating ones. In permanent residences, combined options are more common, combining heating surfaces with a stove and oven. At will, they are equipped with a stove bench, a niche for drying, a ledge made of bricks for dishes, panoramic glass in the firebox door. Heating and cooking devices with a summer and winter chimney in the warm season are used only for cooking.

Varieties

In shape, brick structures are divided into: square, rectangular, round, angular, T-like. The design is dominated by classic styles, although there are also modern models with an original configuration. Options exterior finish: plaster, tiling, metal case. The wall thickness affects the heat transfer. The larger it is, the more smoothly the surface temperature changes. For example, a Dutch oven with a wall thickness of 1/2 brick is more susceptible to temperature fluctuations than the same design with masonry in a whole brick.

There are a number of classifications of the structure of the channels: co-current or counter-current device means that smoke moves in one or the opposite direction; possible arrangement of gas ducts - horizontal or vertical. Single-turn furnaces for the home have one ascending and several outgoing branches, while multi-turn ones remove combustion products through a single winding path.

Primary thrust in the second case is weaker, however, after heating and pushing out cold air, it becomes stronger compared to single-turn ones. There are no channels in a bell-type furnace for a brick house; a chamber above the firebox acts as a heat-absorbing surface. Separately, configurations with lower heating are considered.

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Choosing a place where the oven will stand

First of all, you need to decide on a place for the oven. It must be installed in such a position that not only heat the maximum possible area, but also the safety rules must be observed.

A gap of at least 15 cm must be observed between the rafters and the chimney. In addition, the highly heated parts of the stove must also be removed from walls, ceilings and other fire hazardous elements.

There are several basic schemes for small spaces, how to place different types ovens. As a rule, a brick oven for a house, the projects of which provide for the location in such a way as to heat as many rooms as possible, is placed at the junction of two or three rooms, with one of them being a kitchen. The only exception is the fireplace stove, which is usually installed in the largest room, on the wall opposite the entrance.

Safety requirements for the installation site

Due to the fact that the brick oven for the house is installed on a foundation specially poured for it, it is necessary to choose a place in such a way that you do not have to cut the ceiling and underground logs. A separate base, not connected to the foundation of the house, is required in almost all cases, even if the stove was designed with the house.

An exception can be made only for certain types of furnaces that have a small structural weight. So, for example, a low and wide brick cooking oven for the house, the projects of which involve the use of a minimum amount of material, is installed only on thermal insulation.

If the floor is on logs, it’s a good idea to strengthen it before installing the stove flooring with additional jumpers. If a monolithic foundation is laid under the house, then an additional foundation is not necessary, it is enough to lay a litter and you can lay out a brick.

The pipe must be at least 1.5 m from the roof ridge and be 0.5 m higher than it.

Once the site is determined, a brick perimeter can be laid out on the floor to give a better idea of ​​what it will look like in the future.

Foundation

As a rule, a do-it-yourself brick oven for a house is used in wooden houses installed on strip or rubble foundations. In this case, it is required to perform a full-fledged reinforced concrete or, if it is planned to bake on the trenches, a tape-filled base.

After the place on which the stove for the brick house will stand is determined, it is necessary to complete the foundation. The reliability and uniformity of the masonry, as well as the appearance of the future furnace, depend on how well it will be filled. Therefore, the pouring of the base should be approached with due attention.

The base is poured 5 cm wider on all sides than the future furnace, according to the general technology for making foundations. If used modern materials, for example, Izospan D, it is enough to lay two layers of waterproofing: on a sand cushion under the base and on top of the foundation itself. Another way to perform waterproofing: sheets of asbestos 4-6 cm high are laid on top of the top layer of roofing material. Then roofing iron and, in the last layer, felt soaked in a very liquid masonry composition. After the felt has dried, bricks can be laid.

Basic rules for laying a brick oven

If you want to fold the stove so that it lasts as long as possible without requiring repair, and even more so re-laying, you must follow some requirements for the materials used and the laying technology.

A brick oven for the house, built with your own hands, heats up quite unevenly throughout the body. Particularly high temperatures in the area of ​​​​the furnace, which is due to the use of different material for masonry. Firstly, this will significantly save on raw materials, since cheaper material can be used for some parts of the furnace. Secondly, the use of a clay-sand mixture throughout the body of the furnace is unreasonable. Such a solution has the peculiarity of strongly absorbing moisture, which leads to the destruction of the masonry in places that are not subject to heating and drying.

Requirements for laying bricks

When choosing a brick, pay attention to its quality, which can be determined even visually. A good, high-quality brick is distinguished by a pinkish tint and a clear sonorous sound. You should not choose a brick oven for laying a brick house (photo below), the orange-red material is unburned raw material, but the purple hue indicates burnt brick.

The first rows of the underfloor part are laid from ordinary red brick with a cement-based mortar.

The firebox and part of the convector in the places of greatest heating are made of mixed masonry of ordinary stove and fireclay bricks. In this case, a clay-sand mortar is used.

Part of the furnace, which is also heated, but not higher than 200 degrees, will be performed, albeit with the use of ceramic brick, but already on a cement mixture.

In the upper part of the chimney, where the heating temperature does not exceed 80 degrees, ordinary red brick is again used.

Varieties of brick ovens

There are several main types of ovens:

• heating, designed exclusively for space heating, therefore, it occupies a minimum of usable area;
• cooking, intended only for heating the stove, such an oven can be used even in summer time, since it does not strongly heat the surrounding air;
• Heating and cooking, combining the characteristics of the two previous types. The most common option in the manufacture of a stove for a brick house (photo below);
• a fireplace stove, which is used not only for space heating, but also as a decorative element for the interior of a room.

Heating or Dutch oven

The execution of the stove for a brick house, the drawings for which are given below, is the simplest, due to the minimum structural elements during its manufacture. In addition, such a furnace involves the lowest fuel consumption.

One of the main advantages is the ability to fit it into almost any room. At the same time, such a brick oven for the house warms up quickly enough, in just 1.5-2 hours, however, it cools down quite quickly in comparison with other types of ovens.

Among the shortcomings, one can note a rather low efficiency - less than 40%. In addition, to build a water heater into it, you will have to thoroughly break your head. The problem is that the flow of hot air that moves in the oven cannot be disturbed by the inclusion of additional elements. This leads, firstly, to a large decrease in efficiency, and secondly, to the appearance of a large amount of soot.

Cooking ovens

"Cooking" does not mean at all that this stove is not capable of heating housing, with a room of up to 50 square meters. m she can handle it. However, its main function is still cooking, so the main heat is spent on heating a thick cast-iron stove with two burners. Cast iron is used to increase heat transfer.

The main advantage of such an oven is the possibility of cooking in an area where there are frequent power outages, besides, any food turns out to be much tastier on a live fire. It is beneficial to install a similar brick oven for the home, on wood, and for preparing feed for livestock and poultry, steaming cereals and drying dried fruits. In addition, the design of the stove involves its use in the summer, when excessive heat in the house is completely unnecessary.

The disadvantage of the cooking stove is that it is unrealistic to use it for full heating in the winter. Even if you increase the overall dimensions of the device, this will not increase its effectiveness. Therefore, as an alternative, a generally accepted option is used, which combines the advantages of both types, while successfully compensating for their shortcomings.

Heating and cooking stoves

The most preferred option for permanent housing are heating and cooking stoves for a brick house, combining all the functions of these devices. In addition, such stoves can be easily oriented in the room to obtain the most efficient heating of the home, and the standard set of basic features can be supplemented with an oven, a drying niche, a sun lounger and a water tank. It all depends on the design of the heating and cooking stove that you choose.

For heating in such furnaces, a channel or bell design is used, each of which has its own advantages. A brick duct stove for the house, on wood, warms up the room faster, while a bell-type stove allows you to maintain optimum temperature long time. Therefore, for a residential building, it is better to use an option that combines these two structures.

Traditional Russian stove

The most common is the Russian stove, which can be used in two different modes. In the summer, it is used exclusively for the cooking process, due to the fact that the heating channels are closed with an additional damper and hot gas goes directly into the chimney. In winter, the damper is opened, which provides heating of the room. As a rule, an oven is built into the Russian stove, which is a kind of additional heat accumulator.

Often, a heated lounger is additionally attached to the oven for a brick house due to the use of caps, which are performed without losing the efficiency of the entire device.

The disadvantage of the Russian stove is mainly its rather impressive size due to the removal of the hob separately from the body.

Swede oven

Another option for cooking and heating stoves. This is a more compact device in which the hob is hidden in a recess. In addition, additionally above the stove there is a special niche for drying various herbs, berries and other products.

What is another name for such stoves for a brick house - "Swede". Such a device has a lot of advantages in comparison with other stoves. Due to its design, the device has the highest efficiency - more than 60%, since the heating channels go to the entire brick oven for the house. Reviews of those using such a furnace note that with small dimensions, this design is capable of heating up to 70 sq.m of living space.

It is also possible to use it in different operating modes, while the possibility of smoke is practically excluded due to the design features of the chimney. In addition, it is possible to combine such a stove with a fireplace when both devices use the same chimney. If you place this design on the border of the living room and kitchen, then in the working room you will get a real stove with all the necessary attributes, and in the living room there is a cozy fireplace.

fireplace stove

The advantages of a fireplace stove are not even worth describing, perhaps. Of course, you can’t cook borscht or meatballs on it, but one kind of open live fire can transform the whole look of even the most ordinary housing. In addition, it perfectly copes with the function of heating the room, and the fireplace will allow you to quickly warm up from the cold.

This design has two fireboxes - open and closed, which allows you to heat the room in two modes. You can use the fireplace only from time to time, and in most cases, operate a conventional closed firebox.

Such stoves for a brick house, with the right design solution, can take up very little space and be light in weight, so in most cases it is not necessary for them to make a separate foundation. In addition, fireplaces have the ability to use not only wood and coal as fuel, but also various briquettes, which increases their efficiency.

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Types of wood stoves

According to the design model, wood-burning brick stoves for heating a house are divided into Russian, Dutch and Swedish stoves. These three models are the most popular of all available. And according to their intended purpose, stoves with a hob, heating and heating and cooking are distinguished. Outdoor brick two-burner wood-burning stove most often used in personal subsidiary plots for preparing feed, heating water, and only in some cases - for cooking.

A stove made for heating a private house differs significantly from a stove for a summer residence, in which accommodation is carried out only during the summer season, and heating is only required in early spring and late autumn. Due to the increased popularity of owning household plot, we present to your attention a photo various options brick wood stoves for summer cottages.

Despite the complexity of the construction of brick wood stove, you can build it yourself without much effort. This requires certain building materials, cast iron parts and tools.

Construction Materials:

1. Furnace brick (fireclay), brand Sh8, withstands high temperatures (up to + 1600 C), it is usually used to build a firebox, it retains heat well and is durable when compared with other types of bricks.
2. Red refractory brick can withstand temperatures up to + 800 C, it is used to mount the entire structure of the furnace, it is quite brittle and therefore you need to be extremely careful during transportation and work with it. Read more about firing bricks at home.
3. Mastic designed for gluing brickwork, which can withstand high temperatures (up to + 1500 C), you can use the finished mixture "Garant +". For better bonding of the oven masonry, we advise you to prepare the following solution: take mastic, chamotte powder and chamotte clay in 1: 1: 1 proportions.

Cast iron parts:

• firebox door;
• blower door;
• hob (depending on the chosen stove design);
• grates (cast-iron grate inside the furnace, located between the firebox and the blower);
• chimney valves.

Tool:

1. Electric circular saw, "Bulgarian".
2. An electric sharpener, with the help of which they chamfer bricks.
3. A hammer.
4. A set of spatulas of different sizes. (some more types of spatulas are discussed in this article)
5. Building level and plumb.
6. Electric drill.

Furnace installation (step by step)

Before starting work on laying out a brick wood-burning stove, it is necessary to prepare a stand that will save the floor from excessive load and overheating. It consists of several layers: plywood treated with an anti-rot compound (at least 4 mm thick), basalt cardboard, aceite (8 mm) and galvanized (0.7 mm). To protect the wall from overheating, it is necessary to build a heat shield from aceite sheet, basalt cardboard and galvanization.

To begin with, let's discuss the installation features of the main structural parts: oven doors, grate, chimney valve.

The installation of stove doors is carried out as follows: the cast-iron parts of the firebox door and blower are attached to the brickwork with steel wire and mortar, but it will be more reliable to use a stainless steel frame that matches the size of the opening for the firebox door and blower.

The grates are installed in the furnace compartment, taking into account expansion during heating, a gap of at least 5 mm is left between them. They are mounted on two cast-iron or steel plates with a thickness of at least 6 mm. The grates are installed in such a way that nothing prevents their replacement.

To install a furnace valve, it is necessary to ensure that it enters the brickwork by at least 20 mm, and lay a basalt frame under it.
Video on laying a brick wood-burning stove:

Scheme of laying out the furnace (ordering)

For each type of wood-burning stove, there is a brick layout scheme (order), following which you can easily and efficiently perform installation work. But for greater certainty, it is recommended to lay out a couple of test rows without mortar. This is necessary in order to figure out required amount bricks and check the correctness of the ordering scheme. And it is best to carry out such a “fitting” throughout the work.

Consider the ordering option used when laying out the Swede oven. So let's get started.

1 row - on the bottom of the structure of the future furnace we lay a sheet of roofing material of the required size, on it a layer of sand no more than 10 mm thick, it is necessary to ensure that the base is strictly horizontal. We lay out the corners of the structure.

2 row - with the help of steel wire and mortar, a blower door is installed.

3 row - lay out the bricks in such a way that the brick of the new row overlaps the junction of the bricks of the previous row. On the right side, we lay a strip of metal with a size: width - 40 mm, thickness at least 4 mm, length - 400 mm.

4th row - it is necessary to install a pair of metal corners, the vertical shelves of which are turned down and inserted into the seams of the brickwork. Next, we install the grate.

5 row - it is necessary to chop off the corners of the bricks of this row, directly adjacent to the grate, by 70-80 mm.

6 row - we begin the installation of a cast-iron door for the firebox, fastening occurs due to steel wire and mortar, but so that the brickwork does not collapse from heating the cast iron, the door frame must be wrapped with asbestos cord.

7th row, as well as 8th and 9th rows - we continue to enclose the firebox door, it is necessary to monitor the thickness of the horizontal seams, they should not exceed 5 mm, as a result, it is necessary to ensure that the 9th row of masonry coincides in level with the upper side of the frame of the furnace door.

10 row - laid out according to the scheme, which consists in overlapping with bricks a new row of joints of the previous one.

11 row - we lay out the row completely, and on top we place two strips of steel having the following dimensions: width - 45 mm, thickness - 4 mm, length less than 400 mm.

12 row - a whole brick is laid on the left side on steel strips, and on the right side two bricks are placed 3/4 of the whole, so it is necessary to match the size of the resulting opening with the size of the hob with one burner. Along the entire edge of the resulting opening, we lay out an asbestos cord, previously moistened with water and a solution. We fasten the panel with steel wire, check the horizontal level with a level.

13 row - we lay bricks on the back side of the hob, while leaving a thermal gap of at least 10 mm, which is then covered with sand.

14, as well as 15, 16 and 17 rows - laid out according to the ordering scheme. The wall to the left of the hob is aligned in height with the entire masonry. To build a ceiling above the hob, on the brickwork of the 17th row we place three corners about 600 mm long and three strips of durable steel, at least 300 mm long.

18 row - with the help of brickwork, we overlap the cooking chamber, carefully filling the seams with mortar.

19 row - on the right side in the brickwork, it is necessary to leave an opening the size of half a brick, designed to clean the furnace.

20 row - when laying out a row, we install a “knock-out” brick in the above opening, on the bricks of this row we attach a steel plate measuring 140 mm each side, this is necessary for the zigzag movement of gases in the smoke channel, which, in turn, will ensure uniform heating of all oven walls.

21 row - the laying out of partitions begins, separating the lowering and lifting smoke channels.

22nd row - lay out a row of brickwork and install another steel plate with similar dimensions (see 20th row).

23 row - brickwork must comply with the ordering scheme.

24 row - the last steel plate is installed on the bricks of this row to ensure the zigzag movement of gases in the smoke channel.

25 row - on the finished row we place a sheet of steel with a hole cut out at the location of the smoke channel. The sheet is fastened with steel strips.

26 row - we lay out the brickwork in accordance with the ordering scheme, after which we install the valve for the chimney.

27 row - a solid row is laid out with a hole for the chimney.

28 row - is the last row of the furnace, after which all the seams of the brickwork are checked for fullness to ensure complete tightness.

29th row - a pipe is laid out passing through the wooden roof. And when installing the pipe, it is necessary to comply with all fire safety rules, using a special material.

Video of laying a Swede stove with three firing modes:

Video of laying the Swede stove with a fireplace designed by A.I. Ryazankin:

Video of masonry heating stove-Swedish:

Video on laying a Swede stove with a stove bench:

Video on laying a Swedish stove with a fireplace:

Arrangement and laying of a heating and cooking stove of the Swede type:

Swede A Batsulin oven two-bell with masonry video oven:

Drying

After completing all the work on the installation of a brick wood-burning stove built to heat the house, it is necessary to dry it:

• natural drying lasts for 6–8 days, for this it is necessary to open all the valves and doors, the moisture will evaporate naturally;
• forced drying consists in burning a small amount of firewood with only the furnace door closed, such drying lasts about 10 days with a daily increase in the amount of firewood burned for drying.

Work on the construction of a wood-burning brick oven completed and it is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. It will take a lot of effort and time, but the end justifies the means. Perhaps, after reading the above information, questions might arise, so let's clarify some points again.

Clarifying information on working with ordinary brickwork

• work on laying out the furnace must begin from the corner;
• a brick of a new row should always overlap the junction of bricks of the previous row;
• the blower door, the furnace and the grate are installed and fixed on the structure with steel wire;
• in the space formed behind the grate, the mortar used for laying bricks is poured;
• it is important to remember that the firebox must be laid out with a brick specially designed for this;
• the hob, if it is used during installation, it is better to lay it on a metal corner welded into a single frame, this will allow the structure to be more durable;
• the chimney and chimney of the furnace being constructed must have the same opening size.

For more information about the construction of a large Russian stove, read the link.

stroykirpich.com

Types of furnaces

Brick ovens for giving or at home are divided into the following types depending on their functions:
heating - designed to heat residential premises.

Can be used in combination with other heaters:

• cooking - used for cooking;
• cooking and heating - are used both for heating the building and for cooking;
• Russians - a special type of wood-burning stove, which is equipped with a stove bench;
• fireplace stoves - combine the functions of a closed stove and an open fireplace in one unit;
• specific devices - designed for drying clothes, berries, for heating a large volume of water.

Structural elements of brick ovens

Any stoves for home or summer cottages, regardless of their functionality, consist of the following elements:

• the combustion chamber, where the process of burning firewood takes place;
• the foundation is an obligatory part if the furnace is massive and produces a load of more than 250 kg / m2;
• grate - designed to place solid fuel in the furnace and free movement of ash into the ash pan;
• ashpit - a small chamber where ash accumulates;
• chimney - designed to remove carbon monoxide from the heating system;
• blower - provides the system with fresh air.

Brick ovens for cooking are also equipped with a hob. Additionally, an oven, a drying chamber, a water heating tank and other devices can be installed to increase the functionality of the heater.

Brick pyrolysis oven

brick oven long burning Outwardly, it is no different from a conventional stove. It can be used to heat a house or cottage. The long-burning unit has a peculiar design. Inside a conventional combustion chamber there is a special shaft. It is connected to an intermediate hood, where the afterburning of gases from the furnace takes place.

Advantages of long-burning wood burning stoves:

• high efficiency - when using the same volume of firewood, you can get much
• more thermal energy;
• high efficiency - in some devices this figure reaches 85%;
• a long-burning stove can be used as the only source of heat for the house;
• the gas that exits through the chimney has almost no harmful substances;
• it is necessary to lay additional firewood only after 5-6 hours.

When installing a long-burning unit, it must be borne in mind that the wood that is used for heating must be dry. If their humidity is increased, this will significantly reduce the productivity of the heater. The chimney for a long-burning stove should be as vertical as possible.

It also needs to be cleaned frequently, because due to the low temperature of the exhaust gases, a large amount of soot accumulates on the inner surface of the smoke channel.

swedish stove

The Swedish stove, which is equipped with a hob, is one of the most successful models of brick heating appliances. It is equipped with an oven with a duct convector and a dryer.

Advantages of the Swedish stove:

• sufficiently high efficiency - 60%;
• convector and oven do not have feedback from the furnace, which allows you to choose different schemes their placement;
• the convector can be built from ordinary brick and cement-sand mortar;
• this heater allows you to evenly heat the room over the entire height;
• the design of the stove allows you to vary its size and configuration.

What will be needed to build a stove?

To build a stove for heating a house with your own hands, you need to stock up on the following tools:

• trowel;
• building level;
• plumb;
• rule;
• a hammer;
• roulette;
• shovel.

To build a firebox for a heater with your own hands, use refractory fireclay bricks. For the construction of elements that are not exposed to high temperatures, you can use ordinary red brick. For the solution, take sand and clay of medium fat content. You can also buy a special mixture that is designed for stoves and fireplaces.

Additional materials that are necessary for the construction of a heating stove for heating a house with your own hands:

• metal corner;
• hob, if the stove will be used for cooking;
• doors for the combustion chamber, ash pan, blower;
• valves;
• oven if necessary.

Foundation construction

When installing a heater with a hob with your own hands, you must first build a solid foundation. In this case, it must be remembered that the base of the stove should be remote from bearing walls buildings at least 5 cm.

Under the heating equipment, you need to dig a small pit 30 cm deep. It should be 5 cm wider from the stove body on all sides. In the resulting pit, using an understudy, make several wells with a diameter of 20 cm and a depth of 1 m.

At the bottom of the holes, pour crushed stone, which must be carefully tamped. Also insert a roofing material twisted into a tube into the well. After preparatory work you can start pouring concrete.

Ground part masonry

Do-it-yourself laying of the body of the heater takes place in several stages:

• The first two rows play the role of the base. Brick is laid in a continuous layer.
• The next three rows form an ash pan. The door is installed on the second row.
• Starting from the 6th row, start building up the body of the stove inward.
• On the 7th row, install the grate and the door of the combustion chamber.
• Build a firebox on the 8-10th row.
• On the 11th row, begin to form a place for the chimney.
• On the 12th row, install the hob.
• Starting from row 12, install the chimney.

Start and finish bricklaying only with rows of rows. Also make sure that the vertical seams of the spoon and butt rows do not match. When laying the stove with your own hands, watch the thickness of the seam. It should be 2 to 3 mm. In places where different materials come into contact, the thickness of the seam can reach 5 mm.

After erecting the heater, wait a few days, after which you can carry out the first test fire with a small amount of firewood.

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Advantages and disadvantages of a wood-burning stove

If firewood is taken as fuel, then the stove in the house, garage or country house must meet a number of requirements. Both the furnace and the chimney of the device are constructed so that they do not collapse during operation.

Thanks to the special manufacturing technology, a wood-burning stove has many advantages:

1. Efficiency. The stove, in the furnace of which firewood is laid, easily heats the air into a room with an area of ​​​​at least 4 m².
2. A pleasant aroma emanating from the wood in flames.
3. The possibility of using not only firewood, but also coal.
4. Long service life with timely repairs.
5. Small cost for the purchase of fuel.

However, it is worth paying attention to some disadvantages of a wood-burning stove:

1. The need to control the process of fuel combustion every 15 minutes, adding new batches in time.
2. The requirement to remove ash from the furnace, the accumulation of which impairs draft.

Types of wood stoves

Furnaces in which wood is burned are classified into the following types:

1. A cast-iron wood-burning stove is a room heating device used as an additional heat source. Smoke and gases are removed from it through a corrugated chimney or sleeve. The cast iron stove heats the air in the house very quickly and is mounted in any area of ​​the house. Equipped with a blower, it allows the room temperature to remain comfortable for many hours.
2. A metal wood stove is a structure capable of heating the air in a room in an amazingly short time, since it is made of steel that retains heat. But the effect of the metal furnace disappears quickly, because its walls are made of thin material. Therefore, in order to avoid an instant drop in temperature in the house, the stove should be constructed from stainless steel sheets, creating thick seams that will protect the structure from cracking.
3. A brick wood-burning stove is the most reliable device for heating a room, requiring high construction costs. The brick oven is equipped with a serpentine-shaped chimney, so that the received heat does not leave the house for a long time. True, this device takes a long time to create a comfortable temperature, which distinguishes it from a metal furnace. But the room, heated by a brick structure, does not cool down for a long time, and the oven itself can be used for cooking.

In a wooden house, it is more reasonable to install a compact stove made of heating and cooking type bricks. And the heat capacity of the device should be medium.

The design and principle of operation of a brick wood-burning stove

Each stove in which firewood is laid has the following structural elements:

• a chamber where firewood is laid;
• cast iron grate on which they are located;
• ash pan, where non-combustible fuel residue gets through the holes in the grate;
• chimney for removing gases emanating from firewood during combustion.

Burning wood in a furnace leads to the formation of gases heated to a high temperature. These substances pass through the pipe, making the walls of the furnace hot. As a result, heat is transferred to the air in the room. How quickly the air temperature rises in the house depends on the thickness of the furnace wall material. Usually, it takes about 5 hours to heat the rooms of a private house.

To keep the fire in the furnace, it is necessary to regulate the traction force. To do this, open the blower door less or more and the smoke damper located in the chimney. At the same time, it is important to prevent excess or lack of oxygen in the chamber for laying firewood. Excess air lowers the temperature in the furnace, and insufficient air causes the formation of products of incomplete combustion. Because of this, the heat transfer of the furnace deteriorates significantly, and accelerated soot formation occurs in the chimney.

Video: all about the brick oven

Making a brick wood-burning stove with your own hands

Calculation of the parameters of a wood stove

To determine what size furnace you need to build, you should take into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. The square of the building is obtained by multiplying the outer perimeter by 21 (the amount of heat required to heat 1 m³ of area to 18 degrees).

You can find out what a wood-burning stove should be according to a table that reflects the dimensions of the surface of the equipment, depending on its location and room parameters. The data presented should be used if the height of the house is 3 meters, and the temperature outside the window is not lower than 25 degrees below zero.

Table: recommended oven surface depending on its location

Let's say the stove is going to be built between the kitchen and the hallway. When calculating the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe equipment, it is necessary to proceed as follows:

1. Add the volume of the kitchen with the volume of the hallway (let, for example, it will be 54.39 m³ + 18.87 m³ = 73.26 m³).
2. Find out the value of the return of thermal energy - 73.26 x 21 \u003d 1,538 kcal / h.
3. Determine the heating area of ​​the furnace, given that square meter the oven gives off 300 kcal / h - 1,538 kcal / h: 300 \u003d 5.1 m².
4. Divide the furnace heating area by its active height (heated height) and get the active surface perimeter - 5.1: 2.2 = 2.3 m.
5. Determine the sum of the two sides of the furnace - 2.3: 2 = 1.15 m.
6. Ask for some width and find the length (for example, if the width of the oven is 510 mm, the length will be 640 mm).

List of materials and tools

Starting the construction of a wood-burning brick oven, it is necessary to prepare the following building materials:

• fireclay bricks of the Sh8 brand (for the furnace), since they easily tolerate high temperatures, retain heat and do not collapse for a long time;
• red refractory bricks, which are immune to intense heat, but are fragile and therefore require extreme care when laying;
• mastic used as an adhesive for bricklaying;
• furnace door;
• a sash for a blower;
• cast iron hob;
• cast-iron grates mounted between the firewood combustion chamber and the blower;
• chimney valve.

The construction of a brick oven is carried out using the following tools:

• electric saw with a metal disc;
• grindstone, eliminating the irregularities of bricks;
• hammer;
• spatulas with plates of various widths and lengths;
• level and plumb for construction control;
• drill, functioning from the mains.

Finding a place to install the furnace

A brick structure for heating a house is supposed to be installed so that it does not cause a fire in the house. For furnace equipment, it is necessary to find a place that would allow the maximum use of its power.

The installation of a brick oven should be done in one of the following areas:

• the center of the room, where the air heating equipment will divide the room into sectors;
• a niche in the wall located between two or three rooms;
• a place against the wall (further by about 30 cm), if you want to raise the air temperature in only one room.

Having decided on the site for the furnace, markup is performed. To draw lines that define the contours of the manufactured furnace equipment, start from the ceiling. At the same time, they use a plumb line, since it is very important to make sure that the chimney passes through the attic floors at a distance of 15 cm from the rafter legs.

When looking for a suitable site for the furnace, it must be borne in mind that a lot of space is needed to build the foundation. Therefore, the area where the stove will be located in the future needs to be increased by 10 or 15 cm on each side.

Before laying the bricks, a stand is placed on the floor, which will protect the area under the furnace from the pressure of a heavy structure and overheating. The device must be multi-layered, that is, it must consist of plywood coated with a composition that protects the material from decay, dense basalt cardboard, aceite 8 mm thick and galvanized.

A sheet is also nailed to the wall, which will be located next to the stove, to protect it from strong heat. It is customary to create this heat shield from pieces of basalt cardboard and aceite coated with molten zinc.

Options and schemes for the manufacture of wood-burning stoves

According to which scheme the oven should be built from bricks, depends on the type of equipment. For example, a Swedish oven is laid out as follows:

1. 1 row - a piece of roofing material is placed on the bottom of the future furnace, which is sprinkled with sand, forming a layer of 1 cm. At the same time, the horizontalness of the base is kept under control, otherwise the furnace will turn out to be a curve. Having created a platform, lay out the first row of bricks, thereby obtaining the corners of the structure.
2. 2nd row - with the help of wire and cement composition, the blower door is mounted.
3. 3rd row - when placing a line of bricks, make sure that the blocks of the next row overlap the joints of the bricks laid out earlier. A metal strip 4 cm wide, 40 cm long and 4 mm thick is placed on the right.
4. 4th row - several metal corners are mounted with the bricks facing down and inserted into the joints vertical elements. Then a cast-iron grate is put in place.
5. 5 row - the corners of the brick blocks are leveled, eliminating roughness. We are talking about those bricks that are adjacent to the grate. It is supposed to cut off 7–8 cm.
6. 6th row - put cast iron doors for the combustion chamber. The element is fixed in place using steel wire and cement mortar. So that the brick structure does not become brittle due to the strong heating of the cast iron, the area around the door is wrapped with asbestos cord.
7. Rows 7, 8 and 9 are formed by lining the door of the fuel combustion chamber. At the same time, horizontal seams are made thin (no more than 5 mm). This will lay out the ninth row at the level of the upper edge of the frame from the furnace door.
8. 10th row - the joints of previously built blocks are covered with a new line of bricks.
9. 11 row - two steel plates 4.5 cm wide, more than 4 cm long and about 4 mm thick are placed on the laid out line of bricks.
10. 12 row - strips of steel are placed on the left side of the structure, and whole bricks are placed on it. After that, they work on the right side of the structure, put two bricks, reduced by ¼. When laying out whole bricks, it will not be possible to make an opening corresponding in size to a hob with one burner. An asbestos cord soaked in water is laid along the edge of the created window. cement mortar. The hob is fixed using steel wire and a level that allows you to evaluate the horizontalness of the structure.
11. 13 row - a line of bricks is laid out behind the hob, leaving a space of 1 cm for the passage of heat. Later, this gap is covered with sand.
12. 14-17 rows are created as required by the ordering scheme. The height of the wall to the left of the hob is adjusted, focusing on the size of the entire masonry. To mount the floors above the hob, the 17th line of bricks is supplemented with three corners 60 cm long and three strips of dense steel 30 cm long.
13. 18 row - they perform the installation of the ceiling of the cooking chamber, taking care of the complete filling of the joints with mortar.
14. 19 row - on the right side of the brickwork, a void the size of half a brick is left. This space will later serve as an opening for cleaning the oven.
15. 20 row - laying out the next line, a brick is laid in the opening left earlier, which can be easily pulled out. A steel strip is mounted on the laid out bricks, the length and width of which is 1.4 cm. The plate will provide a zigzag movement of gases along chimney, which means it will contribute to uniform heating of all zones of the furnace.
16. 21st row - create partitions that will separate the lowering and lifting channels for removing combustion products from each other.
17. 22nd row - during the laying out of the next line of bricks, another steel plate is installed.
18. 23 row - act according to the ordering scheme.
19. 24th row - having laid out a new line of bricks, they lay the last steel strip, the task of which is to make the smoke move zigzag through the pipe.
20. 25 row - a piece of sheet steel with an even hole at the chimney passage is attached to the laid bricks with steel strips.
21. 26 row - continue to create brickwork, focusing on the ordering scheme, and install a valve for the chimney.
22. 27 row - lay out a continuous line of bricks with a gap for holding the pipe.
23. 28 row - the walls of the furnace are supplemented with the last line of bricks, after which they check how well all the seams are sealed.
24. 29 row - lay out the design of the pipe going through the roof.

If you want to build a small stove that will consume little wood, despite the high heat transfer, then you should give preference to the following assembly option brick construction:

1. 1st row or base for the oven. A blower door with a gap and an asbestos-cement cord is also installed here.
2. 2-3 rows. The walls of the ash chamber and one cleaning are laid out, which is closed with a dry half of the brick.
3. 4th row. It partially covers the ash chamber and begins to form smoke channels.
4. 5th row. It involves the installation of a grate. The holes are located along the fuel chamber. The laying of the walls of the channels continues.
5. 6–8 row. Form a furnace. Here, at the same time, a firebox door with a gap (3–5 mm) is installed, into which an asbestos cord is laid.
6. 9 row. Forms the walls of the furnace and channels according to the orders.
7. 10 row. Continues the construction of the walls of the furnace and channels according to the order.
8. 11th row. A single-burner stove is installed, a niche frame is laid, and the laying of the furnace wall and channels continues.
9. 12-18 row. A hob niche and channels are laid out. On the thirteenth row, a valve for kindling is installed.
10. 19th row. The second half of the stove with a valve is installed on the metal frame of the cooking niche and on the bricks and the nineteenth row is laid out.
11. 20th row. It involves the installation of an oven and further laying of channels according to the orders.
12. 21–22 row. Continue laying around the oven and laying channels.
13. 23rd row. Supports are installed to cover the oven chamber.
14. 24–26 row. The laying of channels is done according to the orders.
15. 27–28 row. The channels overlap, leaving one pipe channel 140x140 mm according to the order.
16. Next is laying the chimney pipe.

Video: do-it-yourself stove laying for the home

Wood stove operation

To keep the oven safe, you need to take care of the following:

• nail a sheet of steel 30 cm long and 2 mm thick to the floor from the side of the combustion chamber, which would extend 15 cm beyond the brick structure;
• use a chimney (if it is not brick) made of acid-resistant material that can dissipate smoke well.

The firebox of the stove will not create problems if, during its operation, the rule is followed - to lay in the chamber only those firewood that is stored in a covered woodpile that protects the fuel from dampness.

Operating a wood-burning stove is a real craft. In order for it to bring pleasure and benefit, you should listen to some tips:

• firewood is laid in the firebox more tightly, with gaps that were left in the woodpile;
• it is more reasonable to put thick firewood on top, and thin firewood on the bottom;
• under the vault of the firebox, it is supposed to leave a gap of 1/5 of its height;
• after laying the first batch of firewood, the firebox door must not be opened for an hour.

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Features of furnace heating

Stove heating has a number of advantages, thanks to which wood-fired brick ovens have not lost their popularity for several centuries. The most important merit- the ability of ceramic bricks, from which stoves are laid, store and release heat for a long time.

At the same time, useful for human body radiant energy that gives a feeling of warmth and comfort. With regular heating in the cold season, the house is always warm and dry, and due to stove draft, natural ventilation. In the heat, the stove, on the contrary, cools the rooms by removing excess heat into the ground and air through the foundation and chimney.

In addition to creating a comfortable microclimate, a brick oven can carry additional functions, the presence of which depends on the design:

• cooking - boiling, frying, stewing and baking;
• drying clothes, shoes, food;
• heating beds for sleeping;
• the opportunity to admire the open flame.

Furnaces that provide several functions are called combined. These types of stoves include heating and cooking stoves, fireplace stoves, as well as several popular basic models, including a Russian stove.

At furnace heating have and limitations, they include inability to efficiently heat remote rooms. Therefore, in large-area houses, several stoves with separate or combined chimneys are usually installed, or stove heating is combined with other types of heating.

In compact houses, consisting of one or more rooms, the stove is usually located in the center, so that its walls are located in all rooms. The hob and oven are placed on the side of the kitchen, the stove bench is in the bedroom or nursery, and the open fireplace insert is in the living room or dining room.

Overview of brick ovens

The most popular and time-tested basic designs are widely used by stove-makers: they make small adjustments to them, adjusting the size and functionality to the customer's desire. However, the principle of their work is preserved, so all brick stoves can be divided into several groups.

Video: do-it-yourself masonry master class

Russian stove

Differs in massiveness, large dimensions and wide functionality. It consists of an open firebox, which in some cases is closed with a damper, as well as extended smoke channels that run along all the walls of the stove and heat them well. Sometimes a Russian stove is equipped with another firebox with a hob.

The Russian stove, in addition to heating, allows you to:

• cook a variety of food - boil, fry, stew, bake;
• dry things and shoes;
• heat a couch or beds used for sleeping and relaxing.

The efficiency of the Russian stove is not too high - up to 60%, in addition, its firebox requires certain skills. Moreover, it is necessary to heat the Russian stove in winter regularly, avoiding interruptions and cooling the body of the stove. With periodic heating in a cooled stove, condensate forms, the brick absorbs it and cracks during the next cooling and freezing.

In summer, the Russian stove is heated regularly or periodically, for cooking, while using the “summer” mode, directing the smoke with a damper straight into the chimney. The body of the stove does not heat up.

Advantages of the Russian stove:

• multifunctional, solves a whole range of tasks;
• with regular heating during the cold season, it creates an even microclimate in the house without temperature fluctuations;
• decorates the house and gives it a peculiar national flavor.

Disadvantages:

• large weight and dimensions - the construction of a massive foundation is required;
• a large amount of masonry materials, high construction costs;
• complex maintenance, the need for regular cleaning of the channels and the chimney with your own hands;
• not too high efficiency.

It is advisable to build a Russian stove in a house for permanent residence, if there is free space and financial capabilities.

Dutch

The Dutch stove is a fairly popular design of heating stoves, sometimes they are equipped with a hob. This is a channel-type stove - for efficient heating of the walls, it is equipped with smoke channels with a vertical arrangement. Passing through them, the smoke completely burns out and gives off heat to the brick.

The design feature of the Dutch oven is a small footprint, which makes it popular with summer residents and owners of small houses. At the same time, the stove can be made of any height, so it can successfully heat two floors. The shape of the stove also varies from square and rectangular to round, but in any case, its height is much greater than its width, so the Dutch stove is often compared to a column.

Advantages of the "Dutch":

• saving on space and materials - it needs two to three times less bricks than a Russian stove, and the price of its construction is much lower, it can be easily folded with your own hands;
• the Dutch woman has rather thin walls and warms up quickly;
• it can be heated after long breaks, immediately bringing it to full power;
• with modest dimensions, the "Dutch" can heat a house up to 70 square meters.

However, it also has disadvantages:

• Its efficiency is low - about 40%;
• the optimal mode of operation is smoldering, which is why the "Dutch" is sometimes called a long-burning brick oven;
• to ensure good traction, cleaning the furnace from ash and soot should be regular;
• if the view is not closed after the firebox, the stove cools down instantly, so it requires close attention and firebox skill.

The Dutch stove is great for heating a summer house or a small house, including those with a second or attic floor, while it can be equipped with a stove, oven or water tank.

Swedish

The Swedish stove has a more versatile design compared to the Dutch one, while its efficiency is much higher with compact dimensions. The standard Swede is multifunctional, it has a hob, an oven, and two niches for drying shoes and clothes, and some masters complement the Swede with a fireplace or a stove bench.

This is a channel-type stove, in which the principle of a bell-type stove is also implemented - the afterburning of flue gases under the roof of the furnace. The stove effectively heats two adjacent rooms, usually a kitchen and a room, the "Swede" will not cope with heating a large house.

Advantages of "Swede":

• fast warming up;
• efficient fuel combustion;
• the special design of the channels allows you to warm up the lower part of the oven, so that the floors become warm;
• the ability to cook various dishes;
• in the niches located on top it is convenient to dry vegetables, fruits and berries, as well as heat up food;
• they can also dry clothes, shoes;
• if desired, you can build a heat exchanger into the oven and heat water for household needs.

Disadvantages of "Swedes":

• for laying highly heated elements, it is imperative to use fireclay bricks, which increases the price of its construction;
• to avoid heat loss through the bottom of the stove, you need to make good thermal insulation;
• it is not recommended to completely cool the stove in the cold season, since the ignition of a cold, damp stove leads to the gradual destruction of the masonry.

Swedish is suitable for small houses with permanent residence or as an additional source of heat in houses with water heating.

Bell-type

Photo: bell-type furnace
One of the most modern developments is bell-type furnaces. Their difference is the ability to warm up evenly from all sides and retain heat for a long time. Unlike duct stoves, bell or dome stoves do not have winding narrow channels, so they are no less susceptible to solid particles settling and narrowing of the chimney.

The principle of their action is as follows: the smoke from the furnace rises up, under the hood, where it lingers until it cools, after which it descends along the walls, heating them. The stove can have a whole cascade of hoods in which the smoke gradually cools, so the efficiency of such stoves is very high.

Advantages of bell-type furnaces:

• simple design and a small amount of material required for masonry, low price;
• the stove can be heated from a cold state, while it quickly heats all adjacent rooms;
• if you forget to close the damper, the stove will not cool down like a “Dutch”, thanks to the so-called gas view, which prevents back draft;
• if desired, it can be equipped with a hob and a heat exchanger;
• even a novice stove-maker can fold such an oven with his own hands.

This stove is practically devoid of shortcomings, therefore it is very popular with summer residents and owners of country houses.

Bell-type stoves are an excellent choice for giving, a country house, a cottage. Thanks to any possible number of cascades, it can heat several rooms at once, including those on two floors.

Brick long-burning stoves - is it possible?

Any homeowner, faced with stove heating, tries to reduce labor costs, including the time spent on heating the stove. Therefore, many are interested in the possibility build a brick oven with a long-burning mode.

However, this impossible for several reasons. The long burning mode, implemented in industrial metal stoves, implies a slow smoldering of firewood, during which a large amount of smoke containing carbon monoxide is released. Industrial stoves equipped with a long-burning mode have a sealed firebox, so that waste cannot enter the room.

In addition, to ensure slow smoldering of firewood, it is necessary to limit the flow of air into the furnace. In brick stoves, this can be done by covering the blower, but it is inconvenient to regulate the air supply in this way.

Partially, the long-burning mode can be implemented in the "Dutch" and the Russian stove. But you should not rely on the effectiveness of this method, it is better to choose the design of a brick stove that allows you to keep warm for a long time, or to purchase a metal stove with a long burning mode - their price is lower than that of brick models, and the efficiency is almost as good as them.

Basic masonry techniques

Having decided to fold a brick oven with your own hands, the first thing you need to do is choose a design that meets your needs, find an ordering scheme and a description of the masonry, after which you can start buying material and purchased items. Laying a brick stove requires knowledge of basic working methods.

• Under a brick oven, a foundation is required, the dimensions of which exceed the dimensions of the hearth of the oven by 100-150 mm on each side. It can be made of reinforced concrete, as well as made of concrete blocks or rubble. The main requirement that must be observed is that the foundation for the furnace should not have a rigid connection with the foundation of the house, otherwise, seasonal ground shifts may damage the furnace or pipe.
• For laying the furnace with their own hands, two types of bricks are used: red full-bodied ceramics and refractory fireclay, yellow in color. The most heated surfaces are laid from fireclay bricks - a firebox, smoke channels, while using a refractory masonry mortar based on fireclay clay. The price of these materials is higher than that of ordinary bricks, so fireclay is used only where necessary. All other elements of the furnace and the chimney are laid out of ceramic bricks, and a mortar based on furnace red clay or a purchased composition, including heat-resistant cement, is required.

Between the fireclay and ceramic masonry, it is imperative to maintain a gap of about 5 mm in order to compensate for the different temperature deformation of these materials.

• Purchased elements - grates, doors, views and hobs - are placed in accordance with the scheme. The doors are fixed with the help of annealed steel wire with a length of at least 30-40 cm. It is inserted at one end into the holes intended for this in the door frame, and the other end is fixed between the bricks on the masonry mortar. The slab and grate are placed on the previous row of masonry in the grooves selected in the brick. To compensate for the different thermal expansion of brick and cast iron, asbestos cloth or cord is used.
• The chimney of a brick oven is usually also made of brick, but a ceramic block chimney can also be used. industrial production. It is characterized by a long service life, increased resistance to condensate containing carbonic acid, creates stable traction, and does not clog.
• To give the stove an aesthetic appearance, it can be lined with finishing stone, clinker, tiles. Finishing gives the stove not only a beautiful appearance, but also protects it from the harmful effects of water and dust, and although the price of such a stove is somewhat higher, its service life is significantly increased.

Video: do-it-yourself oven masonry

The choice of the correct design of the furnace and high-quality masonry is the key to its long and safe operation.. A do-it-yourself brick wood-burning stove will decorate any home, moreover, this heating method is reliable and allows you to create comfort and a favorable temperature regime.

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Brick ovens for wood-fired houses