Do-it-yourself wiring in a wooden house - installation rules, step-by-step instructions. Which wire is best used for wiring in a house: varieties and practical tips What kind of wiring is best done in a wooden house
The technology of electrical wiring in wooden houses has its own characteristics. Not only that, to connect to the network, it will be necessary to pull the cable from the nearest substation, but the wiring inside the premises must be carried out in compliance with special safety standards.
Wiring Requirements
Wood is the most popular material used in the construction of private housing. Despite its merits, wood is a fire hazardous and highly flammable material.
Regardless of the material - brick, gas silicate blocks, concrete, timber in the event of a fire, an open fire spreads to the furniture and interior decoration of the room. First, everything inside the room burns down, and only after that the load-bearing walls, partitions and roofing begin to burn.
Basic requirements for electrical wiring in wooden buildings:
- Safety - Wiring must be routed in such a way as to minimize the possibility of overheating and ignition of the cable, as well as to prevent the transmission of open flames to adjacent wooden structures.
- Design - specifications and the performance of the wires and components used must correspond to the calculated peak load in a particular section of the electrical network. To prevent heating, the cable cross-section is selected with a margin of 20–30%.
- Laying method - it is preferable to carry out electrification of wooden buildings in an open way. This allows you to easily and at regular intervals to diagnose the state of the power grid.
- Isolation - the location of the input node (electric panel) must be isolated from the interface with wooden structures. Ideally, if the electrical panel is installed in a room with a partition made of non-combustible materials.
- Conductor - as a conductor, it is better to use a three-core copper cable with insulation from non-combustible materials. Laying the cable in PVC corrugation is strictly prohibited.
- Automation - an automatic switch must be installed for each group in the electrical network. The circuit breaker current rating is selected in accordance with the load on the site. It is highly not recommended to overestimate the current rating, as this will lead to overheating of the conductor.
Carry out self-laying power cable and installation of the electrical network without relevant experience is not recommended - this should be done by specialists. But every owner of a private house must know the basic rules of electrification. This will allow him to diagnose the existing wiring, and also make it possible to control the quality of work of hired electricians.
Regulations
Rules for the installation of electrical installations is the main document for the design of electrical wiring
General requirements and rules for electrical wiring are described in the following documents:
- PUE, edition 7 - the main document used in the design of the electrical network. It describes in detail the choice of conductor, switchgear, automation and lighting.
- SNiP 3.05–06–85 - electrical wiring in old and new houses. Connection methods and rules for entering a power cable into a dwelling.
- SNiP 31–02 - requirements for the installation of a power supply system in residential buildings. The document complies with the rules and regulations described in the PUE.
The information contained in these sources is described in technical language and may be incomprehensible to an unqualified specialist. At self-study we recommend relying on the "Electrical Installation Rules", since this document most clearly articulates the meanings and concepts necessary for wiring in private homes.
Preparation of a power supply project
An example of two electrical network device diagrams in wooden house
After consideration of the application by the managing body, an agreement and technical conditions necessary for connection to the local electrical network will be prepared. Then you can proceed to the design of the power supply, which is performed in the following sequence:
When drawing up a project, one should be guided by the EMP. According to this document, electrical wiring is laid strictly in a vertical or horizontal direction. The optimal angle of rotation is 90 o .
The socket group, switches and junction boxes should be located in open areas with free access. Usually, switches are mounted 80–150 cm from the floor level, and a socket or socket group - 50–80 cm. The number of sockets varies from 1–6 pieces. The exact amount depends on the size of the room, but not less than one piece per 6m 2.
When designing a cable route, it should be taken into account that the minimum distance from the openings should not be less than 10 cm. If the cable can come into contact with metal elements along the route, then it is removed by 15–30 cm in any convenient direction.
Choice of wire and devices
The cross section of the electrical wiring, taking into account the total power of the electrical network
When arranging private power networks, two types of cables are used: NYM and VVGng. The NYM type cable is a power cable that meets the European standard and is used for laying electrical networks with a rated voltage not exceeding 660 V. VVGng cable is a bare power cable, double vinyl braided, operating in networks with a constant voltage of not more than 1 kW.
The cross section of the cable for laying electrical networks is determined in "mm 2". For designation, the marking is applied to the cable insulation and is indicated by two numbers. The first digit indicates the number of wires inside the single insulation. The second digit is the cross-sectional area of the conductor. For example, when an electrician says that a three-core copper cable is needed one and a half squares, this means - NYM cable 3x1.5 mm.
The easiest way to determine the minimum cross-section of the power cable core for a particular section of the network is a special table. This method is proven, as it is used in the design of electrical networks in apartment buildings. The table for selecting the cross section of the core can be found in the photo above.
As a rule, a copper cable with a cross section of 2.5–4 mm is used for socket groups, and an aluminum cable with a cross section of 1.5–2.5 mm is used for lighting. In the case of wooden houses, it is recommended to use only copper wiring, as this will protect the electrical network from overheating.
Wire of various sections for wiring in a wooden house
According to the PUE, each section of the electrical network is equipped with a residual current device and a circuit breaker designed for the corresponding current indicators. To calculate the current strength, the standard formula is used -I \u003d P / U cosφ, where:
- I - current strength;
- P is the total power of electrical appliances connected to one section of the power grid;
- U - voltage in the mains;
- cosφ is a constant coefficient. In household networks, it is almost always equal to 1.
For example, it is required to determine the current strength for the network section to which household equipment with a total power of 3 kW will be connected. I \u003d 3000 / 220 \u003d 13.64 A. Taking into account a small margin and rounding, it turns out that this section will require an RCD and a diphatomat, designed for a rated current of 16A.
To determine the type of circuit breaker, it is necessary to calculate the minimum short-circuit current: I short circuit = 3260 x S / L, where S is the conductor cross section in mm2, L is the conductor length in m. As a rule, in networks with a mixed load, which will be presented in most private houses, type “C” machines are used.
Sockets are selected taking into account the power of electrical appliances. Usually, these are sockets with grounding, rated for 16 A current. It is worth remembering that if it is planned to use several electrical appliances in a particular room, then it is better to install a socket group for 2-3 products than to use a “tee” in the future.
Selection of input cable and automation
On the left - an electric meter, on the left - an RCD with a lead-in cable
Do-it-yourself installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house - step by step instructions
It is optimal if the switchboard is installed in a special room with a concrete partition or wall
The technology for installing electrical wiring in a wooden house will consist of several stages: supplying a power cable to the house, installing a switchboard, laying a cable route, connecting contacts and checking performance.
To carry out the work, you will need to prepare an electric drill with a crown nozzle, a screwdriver, a Phillips and slotted screwdriver, an indicator screwdriver and protective rubberized gloves.
Switchboard installation
Switchboard for a private house for 12-24 modules
The switchboard is a device for entering a power cable and distributing incoming electrical energy. Inside the shield there is electrical equipment responsible for the connection, accounting, safety and correct operation of the power supply system.
Ready-made switchboards from the manufacturer are a plastic, metal or combined box with a door, DIN rail, zero and ground bus. The shield dimensions are selected according to the number of modules used. For wooden houses enough shield for 12-15 modules.
The installation of the shield consists of several stages:
When using a shield for 16–24 modules, as a rule, there are two DIN rails in it. It is better to install an introductory machine, a counter and an RCD on the upper rail in the required quantity.
Circuit breakers will be located on the lower din-rail. This type of distribution of modules will allow faster and more convenient connection. After mounting all the elements, it is recommended to mark the modules according to their group. The shield assembly sequence is shown in the video below.
Related video: switchboard assembly and layout
Cable entry into the room
Laying a power cable to a residential building by air
The input of a power cable into a residential building can be performed in two ways: underground and by air. The first method is more reliable, since an armored cable protected by a corrugated pipe will be used. In this case, the wiring itself will be located under a 30-40 cm layer of earth.
A trench 70–80 cm deep is dug to lay the cable. A 15–20 cm layer of fine-grained sand is poured into the bottom of the trench and it is well compacted. Further, on a sand cushion fits protective corrugation through which the armored cable is passed. Then the corrugated pipe is covered with a 10–15 cm layer of sand. At the end, the pipe is completely walled up in the ground.
Laying a power cable to a residential building underground
Cable routing through the air is carried out in cases where the distance between the house and the substation is too large. To do this, use a cable with carrying cable, which is stretched between the supporting and residential buildings. If the distance from the post to the house exceeds 20 m, then an intermediate support is installed between them.
When entering the power cable through bearing wall a sleeve made of non-combustible materials is installed at the interface. It is optimal if the cable is introduced in the immediate vicinity of the location of the switchboard.
Installation of overhead switches and sockets
Removing the button and the face of the socket before installation
Overhead switches and sockets are used for both open and hidden wiring. The technology for installing a switch and a socket is similar, so let's take the process of installing a switch from Schneider Electric as an example.
The installation process consists of the following:
At the end, the operability of the switch is checked and the final assembly is carried out. The installation technology of the surface outlet is similar. As a rule, a three-core cable is used to connect sockets, therefore, when connecting, a yellow-green cable (ground) is present, which is connected to the central terminal.
Connection of wires and contacts
When installing electrical wiring in a wooden house, the use of "twists" is not allowed. Ideally, if part of the cable from the difavtomat to the point of consumption is made from a single piece of wire.
To do this, before cutting the cable, it is required to mark the wall surface. Next, using a tape measure, you will need to measure the cable route and only then cut the cable with a margin of 20 cm.
Wago terminal blocks for wiring connection
If a cable connection is unavoidable, then it is better to use:
- Terminal block - divided into products with a tightening screw and clamping plates. The latter are more optimal, since a plate is used to contact the cable and the bus, which does not damage the conductive core.
- Spring terminal - the most simple and effective method connection in which the core is held and in contact with the plate due to the spring clip. Can be used to connect both aluminum and copper cables.
When installing electrical wiring in a wooden house, we recommend using terminal blocks from Wago. Products are different high quality assembly and have a wide range of products for cables of various sections. To connect, it is enough to strip the cable by 10 mm, lift the clamping levers up and lead the cable into the terminal hole.
Methods for open wiring
Exposed retro wiring using ceramic sockets and insulators
Opening wiring is the best solution for wiring in a wooden house. The open method of laying the cable from the switchboard to the point of consumption has been used for a long time - previously the cable was located on ceramic insulators. Thus, the wiring did not have direct contact with the wooden wall.
Now this technology is called retro-wiring and is used in rooms where the total peak power is quite small and does not exceed 4 kW. In residential buildings with high peak load, this technology has a lot of disadvantages and limitations.
Open wiring in a wooden house without additional insulation
For an open wiring device, it is customary to use:
Some homeowners use a combination approach. For cable laying in straight sections, a steel straight pipe is used, and metal corrugation is used as rotary elements. This approach is not aesthetically pleasing, but it is quite reliable. For safety reasons, all metal pipes and other elements must be connected to the ground loop.
Electrical wiring in a wooden house is important aspect in construction. Despite the fact that the wood that is used to build houses and cottages is treated with a variety of impregnations to increase fire resistance, this material still remains vulnerable. If you do not lay the electrical network in the house according to the rules, then you can put your family in danger.
If you want to lay the power grid in a wooden house on your own, you need to adhere to a certain set of rules - PUE and SNiP. They provide a short general list of requirements, subject to which you can protect yourself as much as possible and prevent fires in a wooden room. Do-it-yourself wiring in the house should be laid according to clear instructions and each step should be provided for.
PUE (rules for the installation of electrical installations) - defines the requirements for the installation of an electrical network in premises. Compliance with the requirements of the PUE is considered expensive to implement, but a very expedient way. It is rigid and laborious in execution. For this reason, these rules are not often followed.
SNiP and PUE were prescribed in order to calculate absolute safety under the condition of any load flowing through the cable, to protect yourself from a short circuit or line ignition. If homemade wiring in a wooden house is not subjected to relatively high voltage, then this does not pose a particular danger.
Therefore, when laying electrical wiring in such a building, all risk factors should be taken into account and the right decision should be made. Either make the line according to all the rules of PUE and SNiP - expensive, but reliable, or it will be carried out faster and cheaper, but at high loads your house will become unsafe.
The regulation PUE-6 has special requirements for laying electrical wiring in wooden rooms. In order to prevent moisture and steam condensate from accumulating on the cables, they are placed in pipes, metal sleeves or boxes are flexible. It also gives the wires additional protection against mechanical damage.
It is allowed to connect such pipes, ducts or metal sleeves if the room is dry, there is no accumulation of gas, vapors, condensate and the humidity level is normal. The connection of metal sleeves, boxes and pipes is necessary under negative conditions in the house. Their bonding to each other follows when the room contains vapors, gases that adversely affect the insulation of cables, their protective sheath, as well as when outdoor installation wiring, if moisture, oil and other liquids may enter the power line. After bonding, they are compacted and sealed.
In dusty houses, sealing joints and branches of pipes, sleeves, and ducts are made to protect against dust and small debris. Connecting pipes, sleeves and boxes are used as a grounding or zero protective conductor, performing the function of "ground" or "zero" in the wiring. Do not pass cables through ventilation ducts and mines. Only crossing with a single wire is allowed, which is located in a protective metal sleeve or pipe.
Also, the laying of wires behind a false ceiling must be carried out in accordance with the norms of Chapter 7 of the PUE. When installing the electrical network in a private wooden house, only copper wires are required. You also need to carefully select the type of cable that can withstand the required load with a margin. Be sure to follow the safety precautions when laying the electrical line in the house.
How not to do
In order to conduct an electrical network in wooden knowledge, you cannot use all installation methods for stone houses or apartments. You can not mount the wire on a wooden beam and other structures without protection. The main power line must not be covered by flammable materials or finishes. Temperature changes, humidity, accumulation of dust and dirt on the wires, frequent deformation and bending of the wires should not be allowed to affect the insulation of the wiring. It is necessary to exclude the increase in the load on the entire home network.
All of these factors can lead to damage to the wiring, resulting in a short circuit. If the bare part of the electrical wiring ignites in a wooden house, then a fire is inevitable. Wires should also not be left unprotected. Pets or rodents can gnaw through the wire, which must be avoided. When processing wood near the laid wires, a large amount of chips and dust accumulates. In the event of a short circuit, ignition will be assisted by the presence of combustible material.
Entering cables into the house
Conducting electrical cables in a private wooden house is a very responsible area of work. Do not focus entirely on the internal wiring in the building. The input of the power cable into the house must meet modern requirements. It should be taken into account that energy consumption has increased, which increases the load on the line, as well as the effect on the external insulation of solar is better, temperature difference, moisture, which subsequently exposes the metal cores of the wires. There are two possible ways power line establishments in private house- underground and air.
The underground way to conduct an electric line is more reliable, but complicated and expensive. The power cable is completely hidden from impact external factors, which reduces the risk of mechanical damage to the wire, moisture ingress, etc. For this, earthworks are carried out. The cable is placed at a depth of more than 80 centimeters, and the security zone must be marked with special signs. The passage of the power line under the foundation of the house is done with a special metal sleeve through which the wire passes. The sleeve is made of thick-walled pipes and durable metal.
Today, this method is used in the construction of new houses, since it is possible to think about passing all communications into the building using new construction technologies. Air way. This method has been used for a long time. Only a qualified worker with the appropriate clearance is allowed on power line poles. Therefore, you cannot make the cable entry yourself.
A SIP cable is used from the pole to the house. Self-supporting insulated wire has a very strong sheath made of polyethylene structure, resistant to solar radiation and temperature extremes. Service life is about 25-30 years. This line does not start inside the building, only up to the switchboard. For a separate section that combines a line connection point and up to switchgear VVGng cable is used. It can be used for fixed wiring, as well as for outdoor. For reliability, it is placed in an electrical corrugated pipe.
The connection usually takes place outside the building. At the intersection of the VVGng wire through the wooden beam of the house, attic walls, ceilings, a metal sleeve is built in for additional protection of the wire.
Video “Wiring in a log house”
Shield mounting
When installing the shield, you must follow the step-by-step instructions for installing it. The wiring of all wiring goes directly to the switchboard. An electric meter, additional protective devices, automatic plugs (a modern way to de-energize an overvoltage network), a DIN rail, as well as ground and zero loop buses are mounted in it. What dimensions the box should have is not regulated, but it is better not to save on this so that it is possible to increase the equipment when the demand for electricity increases.
The installation of the meter is carried out by specialists of a state institution, it is sealed. The power of operating machines is calculated for each zone separately. When a sector is overloaded, the direct electricity supply to it is turned off to avoid negative consequences. RCD can be connected to the entire house network. This may affect the more frequent operation of the machine, but this is not critical. The shield is mounted on a solid, stable vertical surface in an accessible place. In private sectors, it is located outside the building.
When connecting wires to the switchboard, the usual twist is not used. For this, soldering or terminal connections are used. The clamps are reliable and can be easily replaced if necessary. Choosing which method can best protect the electrical distribution board, you can choose a protective hermetic box that will prevent moisture from entering and from physical damage.
open wiring
According to the PUE-6 norms, open electrical wiring in a wooden house is laid on the surface of the walls of the building, along the ceilings, as well as along trusses and other building elements of the structure (supports, beams, and others). Open wiring is laid along the tension string, cable, on special colic. Insulators are used for electric cables and cords, metal pipes, more flexible hands for line mobility, in trays. There are also special electrical skirting boards in which the wire is placed, platbands with this purpose, free suspension.
Open wiring in a private wooden house involves the use of a special electrical corrugated pipe to create an electrical line. For its production, a special stable and non-combustible type of plastic is used. It is much more expensive than conventional insulating elements, but justifies with its reliability. Such a corrugated tube is very convenient for installation, as it is quite flexible. Despite its non-aesthetic appearance, this insulation material is one of the best for outdoor wiring in a wooden house.
The electrical tube collects a large amount of dust due to some characteristics of the material, which requires constant care and wiping of dust from its surface. For installation of open wiring, electrical boxes can be used. After the construction of a private wooden house channels are installed in special boxes, which are usually made of refractory plastic. Cables are pulled through them, and then hermetically sealed with lids.
The main problem of using such installation is the shrinkage of the building after construction. The better the wooden beam is used for construction, the lower the level of shrinkage of the house. If the building is made of glued beams, then usually the shrinkage is 1 centimeter per 1 meter of the height of the house. Then, over time, the average shrinkage for a two-story wooden house will be about 3 centimeters. In the event that the wiring was made with the tension of the cord, then it may burst from excessive tension and pressure. Otherwise, the covers of the boxes will fly out and they will crack. Then the wiring will need to be pulled again. Therefore, it is imperative to take into account shrinkage, make a small supply of wire at the junctions, near the switchboard, and also at the electric pole.
Hidden wiring
The norms of PUE-6 provide that hidden wiring in a wooden house can be laid directly inside structural elements buildings (wall, floor, ceilings, foundation), in wooden floor ceilings, as well as under a removable beam. Hidden electrical wiring in the house can be done in several ways - placing the cable in flexible protective sleeves, pipes, boxes, in hollow building structures or closed channels. Also, wiring can be laid in a grooved furrow, which is covered with special plaster, or the creation of a “monolith” in various building structures during their manufacture at the factory.
It is recommended to start the installation of hidden wiring in a wooden building using metal hoses or pipes to protect the premises. By adhering to these rules, you can avoid the consequences of sparking wiring, overheating of cables from excessive load in the network.
Usually hidden wiring is laid behind wooden beam walls or floors. It is necessary that the protective elements are minimally vulnerable to corrosion. To do this, you need to pre-paint the structures with stable paint to reduce the likelihood of rusting and increase the service life, or use pipes made of a special material - stainless steel (expensive and reliable), galvanized.
After the pipes and sleeves were cut to the required length, sharp iron burrs and edges remain at their ends, which should not be allowed when laying the cable. Since these edges can damage the sheath of the cord, they must be cleaned with a whetstone or file. You can use specially designed plastic plugs.
If the wiring in the house will be done under a wooden floor, then you need to raise a few bars for more convenient laying of the sleeve or pipe. In the places where the wiring exits to connect the fittings, you need to drill in the timber. Wires coming out of the main line can be placed in a copper tube and sunk into the wall. Copper is quite flexible, resistant to corrosion and well suited to continue further installation work, however this material is quite expensive. If the electrical cables will be recessed into the wall, then for this it is necessary to use a drill and a puncher. IN this case the timber is not removed, but a longitudinal hollow is drilled in it, where the wire will be laid in the future.
According to GOST and PUE, there is a standard for conducting power lines in rooms with temperature changes. If a stable temperature corresponding to the season is not maintained in a wooden house, then the pipes with the cable should be placed at a slight slope. This is due to the fact that condensation can accumulate in such houses, which should not be allowed. A slight slope will allow the accumulated condensate to gradually drain to the bottom of the pipe and gradually evaporate.
Since it makes no sense to use plaster in wooden houses, the wiring is usually placed on the floor with a wooden beam of the floor or between the partitions of the walls, where there are recesses.
Often, the home master faces the question of replacing or installing electrical wiring in a private house from scratch. And many in this case turn to professionals, spending on paying for their work. But, although this is indeed quite a difficult job, do not underestimate your strengths. Today we will figure out how complicated the wiring in a wooden house is. The step-by-step instructions that will be presented below will help make sure that "it is not the gods who burn the pots." Well, first things first. To begin with, you need to understand general rules, and after a deeper look at all the features of the installation.
Read in the article:
Features of installation, automation and modern security features
Installing electrical wiring in wooden houses is a little different from doing similar work in concrete and brick buildings. It's all about the fire hazard of such structures, and therefore some rules should be followed. In our high-tech age, there are many automatic protection systems, but still, the old methods will not hurt. Of course, gaskets made of asbestos fabric and other non-combustible materials between the cable and a wooden wall are long gone, but something similar when installing email. wiring in wooden houses is still present.
For example, we can cite plastic boxes that look quite aesthetically pleasing. But many mistakenly believe that their function is purely decorative. In fact, such boxes prevent the spread of flame when the cable overheats from a short circuit or overload on the line. But we will consider this topic later, but for starters, the main rule.
“When performing such work as wiring electricity in a wooden house, utmost care and compliance with safety rules is necessary. Remember that defeat electric shock very dangerous, and inattention to detail is fraught with fire. Do not risk your life and the health of loved ones.”
Well, in order to protect novice home craftsmen, we will try not to miss a single detail, having analyzed in stages each step, each action of such work.
Electrical wiring in a log house - features and methods
Wiring in a house from a bar can be done in two ways:
- open (external) way;
- hidden method.
It should be understood that these methods differ not only in the visibility of the cables. They also affect the cross section (when hidden, it should be larger).
Related article:
In our review, we will consider the material of manufacture and their areas of application. And most importantly - why is it needed anyway? Let's try to understand this issue as thoroughly as possible.
Let's try to understand what are the rules for wiring in log houses. What should be foreseen in order to avoid force majeure circumstances?
Wiring in a wooden house: electrical safety rules during work
As already mentioned, wood is a combustible material, and therefore special wiring methods are needed here. After all, the safety of the household depends on this. Nowadays, the rules for installing electrical wiring in wooden houses provide for laying the cable in corrugated plastic or metal hoses, as well as plastic cable channels that prevent fire. In addition, wires with non-combustible insulation are also on sale, the use of which is a priority in such work.
As for the documentation regulating the rules of electrical wiring in wooden houses - PUE to help. It's probably worth deciphering here. PUE are the rules for the installation of electrical installations. In fact, it is the main document in the work of any electrician. That is why it does not hurt to study it. It spells out the basic norms for the installation of introductory shields, and also explains how to properly wire in a wooden house.
Where to start such work?
The importance of drawing up a wiring diagram in a wooden house with your own hands
The main difficulty for a novice electrician is to compile electrical circuit all premises. But at the same time, this is a very important stage. And if during the installation of open wiring the circuit will only help in the work, then with hidden wiring it can help out in the future. Indeed, without it, even a picture will be difficult to hang - there is a danger of cable breakdown.
Drawing up a diagram should begin with the layout of all rooms. This is done so that they do not end up behind large-sized furniture - because in this case there will be no sense from them. In addition, it should be understood that if lighting groups can be assembled from two or three rooms, then the socket (power) lines must be separated. In addition, for example, not one power group can go to the kitchen, but 2-3. After all, each of the household appliances with high power (water heater or electric stove) must have a separate line.
At first it may seem that such a separation is superfluous and you can take a cable with a large cross section and run everything along one line, but this will be a huge mistake.
Important information! The division into groups makes it possible to use household appliances even if one of the lines burns out. In addition, if you need to repair the outlet, you do not have to turn off the light or de-energize other devices. Yes, and the maintenance and revision of electrical points, as well as the power input shield, is simplified.
Do-it-yourself electrical circuit in wooden houses can be done on any sheet of paper. It is not to be handed over to inspection organizations, although before commissioning home network, the verifier may find it useful. But, again, for informational purposes only. In this case, the diagram of the input shield will be drawn up later, after the installation inside the room is completed. But the installation location of the power cabinet must be selected in advance. As for such a moment as the electrical wiring in a wooden house, it must be thought out to the smallest detail, to the most seemingly insignificant details.
Ways of laying wiring in wooden houses - what difficulties may arise
In order to lay a cable in a wooden house, you need to decide on the installation method. There are two ways, as already mentioned. So, provided that it is planned to sheathe the walls from the inside, as well as to plaster, the most convenient option would be to install hidden wiring. If the wiring in a wooden house is laid after repair and decoration, or wall cladding is not planned at all, then it will be more convenient to have the cables located outdoors or open. Now let's take a closer look at each of these methods, and also try to understand what are the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.
The nuances of installing hidden wiring in a wooden house
Optimal for such work will be cables with non-combustible insulation. But, in any case, they must be stretched into a corrugated sleeve made of metal or plastic. You will also need:
- wood crown;
- drill;
- fastening brackets (clips) according to the size of the corrugation;
- self-tapping screws.
The main task, according to the scheme, is to drill holes in the walls with a drill with a crown, holes of the required diameter for junction boxes, sockets and switches.
Important! A junction box must be located above each circuit breaker. If necessary, holes are drilled above the sockets. You should also pay special attention to the observance of the scheme and the number of cable groups.
Hidden wiring in the house runs at a distance of 15-20 cm from the ceiling. As for the location of the electro-points, their height is already at the discretion of the master. The wire laid in the corrugation is attached with plastic clips and self-tapping screws to the wall in the recesses between the logs. Thus hidden wiring in log house will not interfere with the subsequent decoration of the premises.
In each place where a junction box, switch or socket will be installed, tails of about 10-15 cm are left for subsequent wiring and connection. It should be remembered that the internal wiring of a wooden house involves the use of cables of a larger cross section than the external one, due to the lack of natural cooling.
Installation of open wiring in a wooden house - the pros and cons
External wiring in wooden houses is much easier to install. In this case, drilling for boxes and switches is not required. Having drawn future routes in accordance with the diagram, it is necessary to fix the junction boxes in the right places, and then fix the cable channel between them, into which the wires will later be laid. Similarly, switches with sockets do not require drilling.
The disadvantage of this method is that all the wires (or rather the cable channels in which they pass) are visible on the walls, which does not suit everyone. Well, the advantages of outdoor wiring in wooden houses include simpler installation, as well as the use of cables of a smaller cross section. In addition, in the event of a wire insulation breakdown or other similar incident, repairs are greatly simplified. After all, external wiring in a wooden house allows its production without compromising the finish. To do this, you just need to open the cable channel and replace the damaged piece of wire from one junction box to another.
Installation of retro wiring in wooden houses - features of work
Nowadays, the retro style has become quite popular in all directions. This trend did not bypass electrical appliances, as well as wiring. And this style is as follows. Along the traced route, at regular intervals, ceramic insulators in the form of a fungus are attached to the wall, on which a two-core cable twisted into a bundle is fixed. Otherwise, the installation of semi-antique electrical wiring in wooden houses is no different from the open method.
In the case of using this method, the cable does not come into contact with wooden surface, and therefore no additional fire protection is used. In order to fully understand how such retro wiring is installed in a wooden house, we bring to your attention a small photo review of such works performed by home craftsmen.
When applying this method, it makes sense to purchase lamps that have an older shape. They are popularly called "Edison lamps". The positive qualities of retro wiring in wooden houses include the unusual surroundings that it creates. And even if it is not done professionally, the interior will come alive in any case.
Electrical wiring in a wooden house: step-by-step photo instructions for the work algorithm
Let's try in in general terms to figure out how to act when installing electrical wiring in a wooden house.
| Photo example | Actions to take |
|---|---|
 | First you need to stock up on the tool and material that is shown in the photo |
 | You also need such a crown if the method of hidden, internal wiring is chosen |
 | Approximately such a scheme should be preliminarily drawn up. That is what we are going to work on. |
 | You need to understand that several groups should come to the introductory shield, but because something like this scheme should already be in your head |
   | Wherever possible, we hide wires under the floor, ceiling or behind wall cladding. |
 | If this is not possible, then we use cable channels and external junction boxes. |
 | If a non-flammable wire is used, it can be pulled without additional protection, but it’s better to play it safe |
 | Now you need to drill holes for sockets and switches with a crown |
 | Everything that remains inside is removed with a chisel and a hammer. |
  | It is especially worth being wary of damage to the core insulation during installation - this can lead to a short circuit when testing the power supply system of a wooden house |
 | This is what it should look like after the previous steps |
 | After that, we install plastic “glasses”, where sockets will be installed after repair |
 | If external wiring is selected, then the end result should look something like this |
When installing wiring with your own hands in wooden houses, you need to monitor the quality of the connections. It is loose contacts that most often cause heating and ignition of cables. That is why, in order not to use a soldering iron, making tighter connections on twists, it is recommended to use special ones. Now consider the connection of the junction box using such devices.
| Photo example | Actions to take |
|---|---|
 | The Vago connectors themselves look like this |
 | They can be divided into self-clamping - disposable (applicable only to a single-core wire) ... |
 | …and reusable with a special lock. Such terminal blocks can clamp both solid and stranded, flexible wires. |
 | Clamping happens like this |
 | It is more convenient if the wires stick out longer from the junction box. This will allow you to mount it without problems, as well as allow you to more conveniently maintain it in the future. |
 | And this is the end result. Doesn't it look quite aesthetically pleasing? |
Important advice! Don't underestimate the importance of cable color coding. The fact is that the coloring greatly simplifies installation.
You just need to remember:
- grounding - always yellow, green or yellow-green wire;
- blue or white-blue - always zero;
- all other colors refer to phase wires.
If you follow this simple rule, installation will be very simple, and you will never get tangled in cables at the stage of connecting the input electrical panel. Yes, and junction boxes will not cause any difficulties or problems.
Having dealt with the question of how to conduct wiring in a wooden house, however, you should not immediately run to the store for cables. There is another important issue that needs to be addressed. And again, a pre-compiled scheme will help with this.
You need to do the following. Having decided which devices will be connected to one or another line, right on the diagram you need to write the total power of the consumed devices for each group. It is these actions that will help to calculate the required cable cross-section before making the wiring in a wooden house.
Which wire to use for wiring in the house - material of manufacture and cross section
Many home craftsmen, having no experience in electrical work, try to lay the cable with the largest possible cross section so as not to be mistaken. But such an approach is fundamentally wrong. And now we will figure out what is the optimal cross-section of the wire and what material for its manufacture is more acceptable.
Someone might say that it is better to use aluminum cables for wiring in wooden houses. They are cheaper and fairly easy to install. Perhaps this is so, but still if you dig deeper, then the savings are not entirely correct. The fact is that at a cost 2 times greater, copper cables have two undeniable advantages:
- The service life of copper is 50-60 years, while aluminum can hardly withstand 20. In addition, in our time there are practically no natural aluminum cables, mainly an alloy that serves even less.
- Copper has less resistance, which means that the cross section of the aluminum wire will be large with the same power consumed by the devices.
From this we can conclude that, taking into account the repeated replacement of wires after 20 years, no savings are obtained, but here we can only indicate the characteristics. It's up to each individual to decide.
For example, we can take the power consumption of 4 kW. To power such a device, an aluminum cable with a cross section of 2.5 mm 2 is required. While copper is only 1.5 mm 2. Some conclusions can already be drawn from this. Below we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the table of wire cross-sections based on power and current load.
We hope that this data will help everyone decide which wire is needed for wiring in the house. Well, for ease of calculating the required cable cross-section, you can use a program that will calculate everything for you.
Calculator for calculating the cable cross-section by power
How to do concealed electrical wiring in a wooden house- correctly, reliably, according to all rules and regulations?
The answer to this question will have to be searched for a long time in different normative documents, rules and instructions - PUE, fire safety rules, etc.
I, too, at one time became very interested in this issue, I had to shovel a lot of literature, crawl on the Internet on sites and forums, and it turned out that the question was rather ambiguous ...
Some requirements of the rules are simply behind the times and outdated with the advent of new materials and technologies, while the interpretation of other rules can be interpreted in two ways.
But still there are basic requirements and they are quite tough for wooden houses with hidden wiring.
Here's what I found out.
I won’t drag out the rubber for a long time - if you suddenly decide to make hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house according to all the rules, get ready to pull the second water pipe from the pipes ...
Yes, yes - do not be surprised, these are the requirements in the PUE for hidden wiring in a wooden house, even if it is wiring in a house made of glued laminated timber ...
All electrical wiring throughout the house, including transitions through walls and ceilings, must be done:
in metal pipes;
in a layer of plaster in pipes or corrugations (not UNDER the plaster, namely IN it!)
If done in metal pipes, the junction boxes and socket boxes must also be metal.
In a layer of plaster, laying in pipes or corrugations is required because, according to the requirements PUE wiring in a wooden house there must be a replaceable one and the possibility of its replacement in whole or in part is provided.
How do you like this perspective? Not very impressive? To be honest, me too...
By the way, if the wiring is laid between a wooden wall and drywall in an air gap, this is also a hidden wiring!
Why can't you just make strobes or grooves in a tree and use a cable in non-combustible insulation? Or just lay under the plaster?
Or in a plastic corrugation, a cable channel?
No, you can't...
Such strict security measures during the installation of hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house are used to prevent a fire in the event of a short circuit and other electrical wiring malfunctions.
Here is the main point here.
When a short circuit occurs in the wire electric arc , which has a very high temperature (the burner flame in a gas stove is a thousand times weaker!).
So: the purpose of metal pipes and a layer of plaster is localize(kill) this arc, do not let it spread and cause a fire.
To do this, the metal pipe must be of a certain thickness with a different cross section of the wire so that electric pipe could not burn through the walls and break out.
For a wire with a cross section of up to 2.5 sq. mm, the wall thickness of a metal pipe is not standardized!
Naturally, no plastic corrugation or plastic cable channel is able to withstand the effects of an electric arc that occurs during a short circuit.
The same thing happens in the plaster layer - the arc self-extinguishes due to the lack of air, and it cannot burn through the plaster layer either. Therefore, the short circuit does not cause any consequences.
Also, this method of laying protects the electrical wiring from other troubles - for example, mice, which, even on a full stomach, enjoy the insulation of wires with pleasure ...
All this is necessary since the electrical wiring is hidden and inaccessible for inspection and maintenance - we will not gouge the plaster to make sure that the wire insulation is not broken.
Electric arc - 330 frames per second:
By the way, the metal hose is unsuitable for these purposes and it is also impossible to make hidden electrical wiring in it. It does not have the localization ability to self-extinguish the electric arc.
Whether we like it or not, we are obliged to comply with the requirements of the rules, especially if new house, which will be adopted by the Energy Supervision Authority in the future.
Although the implementation of these rules leads to deplorable curiosities ...
On one of the forums I read that they did hidden electrical wiring in metal pipes in a new house built from glued laminated timber.
We did everything according to the rules, drilled beams, laid pipes, connected them, bent them, etc.
As a result, the log house after shrinkage just hung on these pipes ...
There were gaps between the rows of beams of several centimeters. I had to cut the pipes and made the wiring in an open way.
By the way, they do electrical wiring in Canada without any protection- just a double-insulated cable! What is in panel houses, what is in squared or log houses. Why?
And because, firstly, they have an RCD applied already on 5mA, secondly, they have a ground wire in the cable immediately without isolation.
That is, if, for example, a three-core cable, then between the two cores in the insulation is made naked copper ground wire. We have not seen such cables.
This allows you to very early catch with the help of RCDs the leakage current that occurs when the insulation of the phase or neutral wire deteriorates.
My personal opinion is that installation in metal pipes is already too much ... To be honest, I have never seen anything like this live. It is really very expensive and labor intensive.
Basically, I meet installation on wood simply in a plastic corrugation, very rarely in a metal hose, and under plaster, it’s just a double-insulated cable.
Of course this does not comply with the rules, but such is the reality! And they don’t do this because of a good life, not everyone can financially pull electrical installation in metal pipes.
If you have to hand over the object to energy supervision or firefighters, or you want to make the wiring as safe as possible, according to the principle “did it well once and forgot it”, then it’s better to forward the wires in a plastic corrugation in a layer of plaster and install necessarily RCD or difavtomatov.
Let's look at the reasons why a short circuit can occur in the cable and, as a result, a further fire if the wiring is done incorrectly:
but) defective cable. That is, the insulation of the current-carrying cores is initially damaged or does not meet the requirements at the factory.
How to avoid: buy a quality cable, do an insulation resistance test.
b) mice and other crawling creatures )))
How to avoid: installation in plaster or in a metal frame - pipes, boxes, etc.
in) physical damage to electrical wiring insulation. For example, when repairing, accidentally screw in a screw, hammer in a nail, etc.
How to avoid: But no way ... If desired, a metal pipe can be cut with a grinder.
G) insulation failure due to overload wiring.
How to avoid: correct installation and selection of circuit breakers or fuses.
If you decide to make hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house in a layer of plaster in a corrugated pipe, the Electrician program will help you calculate the material. How to do it - I told and showed in the article
What is your opinion on this matter? How are you doing electrical wiring in a wooden house?
I will gladly answer your comments!
And finally, a video of an electric arc. that occurs when the circuit breaker is turned off:
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Wooden houses are a very ancient tradition of Russian architecture. Even in our time, when there is no shortage of modern building materials, many owners of suburban areas prefer to build housing precisely from wood - no one can even compare closely with it in terms of natural warmth and the special comfort created.
Yes, and ordinary citizens - owners of small cottages, most often opt for wood, as the main material for construction. But both permanent and temporary housing in modern conditions cannot do without power supply. In both cases, it is extremely necessary to know how to make the wiring in a wooden house correctly so as not to endanger your health and even life, to ensure the safety of housing and property.
Basic requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden house
First of all, it is necessary to warn home craftsmen who believe that if they can fix a socket or a switch in an apartment, they know how to distinguish zero from a phase using a conventional indicator, then they can safely take on independent wiring in a country wooden house. Not everything is so simple - a wooden structure is characterized by an increased fire hazard, and the requirements for laying power here are completely different.
Poor electrical wiring is the most common cause of fires The bleak statistics show that the overwhelming number of fires that occur in wooden buildings are directly related to violations of the installation and operation of electrical appliances or wiring. By and large, you should not take on the independent laying of electrical lines at all - this is the lot of qualified specialists. However, any owner of wooden housing needs to know the basic rules, although would in order to evaluate the existing cabling or to control the work of the called electricians, since it is quite possible to run into "hacks" who perform work on the principle " it's okay, it will do".
So, what are the basic requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden structure:
- The probability of ignition of the cable with the transmission of open fire to the wooden structure of the building in the event of a short circuit should be completely excluded or minimized to the limit.
- The physical, technical and operational characteristics of the wires and electrical fittings used must correspond with a sufficient margin to the total power consumption at each specific section of the wiring, taking into account peak loads. Any manifestations of heating of cables or terminal connections are unacceptable.
- The condition of the wiring must completely eliminate the risk of electric shock to people or pets.
The problem of aesthetics in a wooden structure should go by the wayside. There are many acceptable ways to solve this issue as well (this will be discussed below). But you should never seek to improve the interior design of premises at the expense of even a slight decrease in the level of security - this is fraught with disastrous consequences.
Complexity independent work for laying in a wooden house, also in the fact that there is no single regulatory document. Experienced craftsmen with a long work experience know the basic requirements for it and the technological methods for their implementation. It’s not so easy to pick up the necessary information, scattered but SNiPam, GOSTs and PUE (electrical installation rules), and it is often too specialized in nature, understandable only to a person with a specialized education.
The main objective of this publication is to give the owners of wooden houses a basic understanding of how to install electrical wiring. As an instruction on how to make wiring in a wooden house, addressed to an unprepared person, for completely independent electrical work, it should not be considered.
The entrance of the electric line to the house
This — very responsible area, which for some reason the owners often forget about, focusing on the internal wiring. The principle probably works - it has been standing for a long time and fully justifies itself. Meanwhile, the introduction of a power cable into the house could have been carried out for a very long time, using old technologies that no longer meet modern requirements. The equipment of houses with electrical appliances has grown literally at times, respectively, and energy consumption has also increased. Yes, and the cable part itself can become hopelessly outdated - the insulation bursts under long-term exposure to the sun and temperature changes, exposing metal cores and reducing the safety of the wiring.
This cable entry through wooden wall- "delayed mine" A particularly vulnerable area is the passage of the cable through the wooden wall of the attic. At one time, it was believed that cropping was enough for safety. rubber hose. However, such a knot is fraught with a considerable threat - the composition of rubber contains a considerable percentage of soot, which in itself is carbon, i.e. conductive material. As such an “insulator” ages, electrical conductivity bridges with a sufficiently high resistivity appear. There may be areas of local heating, sparking, and for dry roof gable boards this may be quite enough.
In a word, if the goal is to completely update the wiring and bring it to a truly safe state, then you need to start from here.
There are two ways to bring a power line into a house - overhead and underground.
- The underground method is considered more reliable, since the cable is completely hidden and not subject to external influences. However, this is a rather costly method that will require significant excavation. The cable must be located at a depth of at least 0.8 m, the security zone must be marked with signs. The passage through the foundation and entry into the house is carried out with the obligatory installation of metal sleeves from thick-walled pipes.
As a rule, it makes sense to organize such a connection only when, thinking over the passage of communications in advance. If the power line is laid in an already built house, then it is easier and cheaper to use overhead wiring.
- It is strictly forbidden to carry out any independent electrical work on the poles of power lines - only a highly qualified electrician with the appropriate approval has the right to do this.
An approximate diagram of the required placement of overhead wiring from power lines to the house is shown in the figure.
The section of the line from the pole to the house is usually made of wire with a cross section of at least 16 mm. Basically, a SIP-type cable (self-supporting insulated wire) is used, which has a high-strength cross-linked polyethylene sheath that is resistant to infrared radiation and thermal fluctuations. The service life of such a wire should be at least 25 years.
However, this line never starts inside the house. According to existing rules, it is strictly forbidden to lay cables with an aluminum current-carrying part along combustible structural elements. And time we are talking about a wooden house, then starting from the entrance and up to The last socket or light bulb uses only copper conductors.
For the section from the line connection to the inlet switchgear, it is recommended to use the VVGng cable. The additional index "ng" indicates the incombustibility of its insulating coating. This cable fully meets the requirements for fixed wiring both indoors and outdoors. However, for greater reliability, it is also recommended to enclose it in a corrugated polymer pipe, which has the appropriate certification in accordance with the current fire safety rules NPB 246-97. The plastic from which the “corrugation” is made belongs to self-extinguishing, non-combustible materials.
Always carried out outside the building. Currently, for this, special hermetic compresses are most often used, providing reliable contact without the possibility of oxidation and sparking.
The sections of VVGng passage through the walls of the house and attic or interfloor floors must be enclosed in a metal sleeve made of a thick-walled pipe. This precaution has several purposes:
- The cable part will be protected from damage that may be caused by displacements of building structures, for example, due to shrinkage of the house or ground vibrations.
- The metal sheath will prevent the spread of fire to wooden structures to the maximum extent in case of an emergency - overheating or ignition of the cable.
- The cable in vulnerable places hidden from view receives protection from domestic rodents.
The pipe wall thickness is a regulated value. So, if a wire with a cross section of up to 4 mm² is used, it should be 2.8 mm, and when using more powerful cables - from 6 to 10 mm² - even 3.2 mm. This will eliminate the possibility of burning the pipe wall if a short circuit occurs inside it.
The same rule applies to all sections of the house wiring in a wooden building, without any exception.
The next important section is from the entrance to the house to the switchboard (according to the accepted terminology, the introductory switchgear - VUR). What is the special specificity of this section - it remains unprotected by automation from overloads or short circuits and, as a rule, is not in sight, often passing through attic or utility rooms. You should not rely on the automation of an electrical substation - there are completely different levels of operation.
There are several ways to radically solve this problem:
- The entire section of the cable to the ASU can be enclosed in a metal pipe with the same parameters as mentioned above. However, this becomes possible only with its small length - up to 2.5 - 3 meters and the absence of a large number of turns. Push a sufficiently rigid cable for considerable distances in the gap T t ruby will be simply impossible.
- It seems optimal to install a circuit breaker in a sealed box immediately before the line enters the building. At the same time, the threshold for its operation selects a step higher than that of the main AZ, which is installed on the ASU. So, if a 25 A machine is installed on the shield, then 32 A should be set on the outside.
This will protect the vulnerable area from overload, but at the same time, if such a situation occurs in the internal house wiring, the automatic switch on the ASP will work, and there will be no need to get to the external AZ.
- There is another option, when both the machine and the energy metering devices are generally taken out by the power supply organizations for outer wall buildings or even on power poles. This, of course, is reliable, but not always convenient for the owners of the house.
Switchboard installation
The line from entering the house directly, without any branches, leads to the switchboard - ASU. What are its main components:
- A metal or plastic box with places for placing an electric meter and additional protection devices, a DIN rail for AZ, tires - zero and ground loop. The dimensions of the box are not regulated, so it’s better not to save money in this case, and install it with the expectation of a further possible “upgrade” - retrofitting, the need for which may arise as it expands electrical equipment Houses.
- Sealed electricity meter.
- The main introductory circuit breaker, two-pole or three-pole, which is usually also sealed by the power supply organization.
- DIN-rail mounted single-pole AZ. Their number may vary. Typically, the power grid at home is divided into zones - each them they will correspond to your machine of a certain power. So, a kitchen, one or more rooms are separated into separate zones, which can also be divided into lighting and a socket group. Often a separate zone is the lighting of the yard, the power supply of the garage and outbuildings, external sockets that are used for chores on the territory.
The power of the machines is calculated for each zone individually. They are guided by the rule that it should provide overload operation on the weakest section of the local wiring. The lower the rating, the higher the safety of the operation of electrical appliances. So, if ordinary sockets have a permissible limit of 16 A, then the AZ should not exceed this value.
- RCD - a device for protective shutdown of power supply when a leakage current is detected. Due to the considerable cost of such a device, many simply neglect it. However, although it is not mandatory, it is still better not to be stingy, purchase and include it in the overall power supply system. RCD will reliably protect residents from electric shock when using electrical appliances, will not allow emergencies online. It is of particular importance in areas with high humidity- kitchens, bathrooms, baths, boiler rooms, external fittings in yards, garages, etc. The selection of the RCD rating and its installation should be carried out by a qualified electrician, since several parameters are taken into account here - the total load of the site (maximum current) and leakage current.
The RCD can be installed on the entire intra-house network, but in this case there is a high probability of frequent false alarms, and besides, it will be very difficult to identify the source of a potential security threat. More convenient, but, true, and more expensive way becomes setting RCD also with zoning, similar to AZ.
Video: RCD installation example
All hardware of the switchboard must be exclusively from trusted manufacturers, have the appropriate certificates of conformity. It is important to remember that in many respects these are responsible for the safety of the owners and the safety of the building.
Prices for residual current devices (RCD)
Residual current devices (RCD)
How to make wiring in a wooden house - from the shield to the points of consumption
Now about one of the main points of the wiring device in a wooden house - the sections from the switchboard to the connection points for electrical appliances.
First of all, a few words about . Twisting must be avoided, even when using thick copper conductors of the same section. Soldering wires is allowed, followed by closing the bare part with plastic caps. The best solution would be to use special spring or screw terminal connections (for example, WAGO terminals). This is not so expensive, but it will provide both reliable contact and the required protection against short circuits. In addition, such connections are easy to check and, if necessary, replace.
The best solution for a wooden house is the open wiring on the walls. There are opportunities to place it hidden, but this will require large-scale and expensive work.
Methods for open wiring
- For a long time, the placement of internal wiring cables along wooden elements structures on insulating rollers, providing a safe gap of 10 mm from the wall.
In the houses of the old building, in some places such wiring has been preserved to this day.
There are numerous fans of this retro style ... By the way, this method of fastening has become fashionable again - many owners prefer such retro wiring. For this, special twisted cables of various colors are even produced.
… and you can even purchase special wiring Video: retro wiring on wooden walls
However, to take such approaches seriously d for the organization of all internal wiring is hardly appropriate. The number of electrical appliances and, accordingly, points of consumption in the average house has increased significantly, and laying many highways from the switchboard on rollers over the wall will look simply ridiculous.
- Single cables with a cross section of less than 6 mm² can be placed directly on the wall surface, fixing them with electrotechnical clips appropriate size. The main condition for this is the presence of double (or even triple) cable insulation. For such purposes, the already mentioned wires of the brand VVGng or NIM are suitable. If wires are used in ordinary insulation, then a fireproof gasket (asbestos or metal) will be required, protruding at least 10 mm on both sides of the cable, and this is unlikely to decorate the interior of the room.
- Wiring can be placed in a polymer electrical pipe. The advantage of this approach is that several wires can be placed in one pipe. It will already look a little better than single cables, but still the aesthetics in this case are “lame” - the corrugation is not easy to place perfectly evenly, even using clips. But on the other hand, the wires receive additional protection from external damage and the required clearance from the wall is created.
For inconspicuous wiring areas, for example, for utility or technical rooms, this method is probably optimal. However, it also has a drawback - if it is necessary to replace a single cable, you will have to remove the corrugated lining from the entire bundle of wires.
Find out a few available ways, from our new article.
A sleeve made of a metal pipe at the place where the wires pass through the ceiling - The growing popularity of polymer cable channels, closed with a removable cover . They are produced in various sizes, which means that it is possible to choose them both for a single wire and for several parallel lines. They are made of non-flammable plastic, which increases the safety of the wiring.
Such boxes can be selected according to the most suitable color - they are not only white, but also toned or having decorative coating"under the tree", which will be well combined with the material of the walls.
A special advantage of such channels is the simplicity of preventive or installation work with a cable part - you can always remove the cover to replace a problem cable or add a new connection.
Considering that there are a lot of additional accessories for such cable channels- turns, external and internal corner elements, tees, plugs, etc., the owners can use them to solve the problem of the required decorativeness of the electrical wiring.
Video: open wiring in a wooden house using cable channels
- Another kind of similar cable channels are electrical skirting systems. They are also equipped with all the necessary elements for straight sections, turns, corners, rises to sockets and switches, junction boxes. This allows you to maintain the overall style of the room, despite the fact that, in fact, the wiring will be considered open.
Important note - installation cable channels should be carried out only after the initial shrinkage of the house and on condition that the wood of the walls is well dried. Otherwise, even minor changes in the “geometry” of the room can cause deformation and even destruction of the boxes.
- They also resort to placing open wiring in pipes, metal or polymer. You cannot call such a technology convenient - each straight section is threaded separately, then a transitional or rotary coupling is installed, and so on. Of course, the need to replace the cable part will also cause a lot of difficulties. This approach is rather a tribute to fashion, but by no means the optimal solution for outdoor wiring.
Sockets and switches installed with open wiring must necessarily have a non-flammable gasket at the bottom. Well, if it is provided by their very design. If not, then you will have to cut out sites from asbestos or metal.
You should immediately calculate the required number of outlets in a particular place in the room. The use of tees or extension cords during the operation of electrical appliances should be reduced to a minimum, and even better, completely eliminated.
Electric cable prices
Electrical cable
Hidden wiring in a wooden house
If the owners of the housing nevertheless prevail, the desire to completely hide the wiring, then they will face very large-scale work.
- To ensure complete fire safety, all wires must be replaced with a fireproof sheath, which can only be steel or copper pipe. Internal cavity steel pipe must be either painted or galvanized to prevent corrosion of the walls.
- All transitions and turns are performed using threaded elements or by welding (soldering).
- The horizontal sections of the pipes must have a slight slope so that the condensate formed in the cavity has an outlet to the outside. Special holes are also provided in those places where moisture accumulation is most likely.
- Only metal sockets are installed in the holes cut out for hidden placement of sockets and switches, which must be connected to the ground loop.
- All branchings are carried out only in junction boxes, which must also be hermetically connected to the pipes.
- The entire pipe loop must be grounded. to remove possible static voltage from it and prevent electric shock in the event of a possible violation of the cable insulation.
- To prevent contact of the wire insulation with the sharp edges of the pipe, a centering plastic plug must be installed at the outlet.
Video: placing hidden wiring in metal pipes
Hidden wiring is allowed in another way - according to the outline of the plaster layer with a thickness of at least 10 mm. However, this is rarely used, at least for the reasons that covering natural wood with plaster is probably not the best option.
If you look at photos or videos posted on the Internet, you can see a lot of examples when hidden wiring is placed in metal or plastic, or simply bundles of wires are laid in strobes made in wood. What no matter what “authoritative” masters write, who convince that such a method is completely safe, this is a gross violation of existing requirements. It is hardly worth laying such a "time bomb" in your wooden house - the stakes are too high!
The article mentioned the ground loop more than once. However, this question is so peculiar and important that it deserves a completely separate detailed publication, which will definitely find its place on the pages of our portal.
