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What is better to build a bath from: general information, features and recommendations, which bath is better to build. A foam block bath is planned: the pros and cons, is it possible to build it from this building material? Bath building permit

Some buildings on the land plot are subject to mandatory registration. First of all, these are capital buildings and large objects. But many are wondering whether it is necessary to register a bathhouse at their summer cottage, whether a permit is needed to build a bathhouse on the site. It depends on the purpose of the operation of the building, the size and dimensions of the object. Let's look at these issues in more detail.

When can I build a bath on the site

Before erecting a bath, you need to figure out whether it is possible to build on this land. Construction is allowed on the following types of sites:

IZHS - plots for individual housing construction, which belong to a specific locality (cities, villages, towns, etc.);
LPH is a personal subsidiary farm, where the construction of a residential building and other buildings is allowed. This land is also used for agriculture without the purpose of making a profit;
Summer cottages allow the construction of residential and commercial facilities, gardening and livestock. They include SNT (garden non-profit partnership), dacha cooperatives, etc. Today summer cottages are equated in rights with IZHS.

Other categories of land are not intended for construction. For example, there are territories exclusively for agricultural purposes. Then you need to design a future bath. The design and function of the building will determine whether a building permit needs to be issued and whether the facility needs to be registered.

We note right away that capital buildings with a second or attic floor, living rooms and communication networks connected require a mandatory permit for construction. Registration of a bath on your site is necessary if it is a capital construction object, you want to confirm ownership and in the future you plan to take actions with the object and the site (sell, insure, donate or inherit).

Bath building permit

Sheds, temporary and outbuildings, gazebos and other objects that do not belong to capital construction do not need to be registered on the land plot. Such objects are distinguished by light weight, lack of engineering networks, residential premises and the foundation, or a lightweight shallow foundation is allowed with a laying depth of up to 1 meter.

You do not need permission to build a garage on your own site without the purpose of doing business and making a profit.

A permit is required for permanent buildings and buildings with residential premises. A standard compact light sauna with a shallow foundation and without engineering communications does not need a building permit. This is an auxiliary building that can be safely erected on the site of IZHS, SNT, LPH, and a dacha cooperative.

But today, spacious and comfortable baths with all amenities are in demand. They have a capital foundation, water supply and sewerage, electricity and other engineering networks. Two-story baths and projects with an attic include a lounge, several bathrooms and even a kitchen. Buildings like this require a permit!

In addition, you need to obtain permission for baths that are attached to a residential building. AT this case change the building plan, which is then approved by the relevant authorities. Here, the increase in area, the effect of the extension on the strength of the foundation and walls, and compliance with sanitary and fire safety requirements are taken into account.

Thus, a building permit is required for capital construction projects, namely for a bathhouse with a second or attic floor and living rooms, with communication networks and a solid foundation. In addition, permission is required for a bathhouse attached to a residential building.

How to get a building permit

If a permit is required for the construction of a bathhouse, it is necessary to collect and submit the required documents to the local government where this land plot is located, or to the nearest MFC. The following documents are required to obtain a permit:

Application for permission to build on a land plot (a sample and a form can be found on the Internet);
A document that confirms the right to own a land plot;
Land plot plan;
Project documentation, which includes an explanatory note, information about engineering networks, a layout of buildings on the site, etc.;
A positive opinion on the project documentation, if expertise is required.

If you submit documents through a representative, a power of attorney is required. The municipal authority considers the application for ten days and then makes a decision. The permit is valid for ten years from the date of receipt and is issued free of charge without state duty.

Bath registration

You need to register capital buildings, regardless of the purpose, if you want them to be owned. The right of ownership gives the opportunity to dispose of the property in full. In the future, you can easily sell, donate, leave as a legacy and even insure the built bathhouse.

Modern legislation allows you to register the ownership of objects located on the purchased or received land. It can be a bathhouse and a garage, animal enclosures, gazebos and utility blocks, garden and country houses, residential cottages.

Whether to register a bathhouse, a garage and other similar buildings, each owner decides independently. Note that if this is a light structure without a solid foundation up to 1 meter deep, engineering networks and residential premises, there is no point in registering. Moreover, for each registered object you need to pay a separate tax!

In this case, the bath is one of the outbuildings, which automatically become property along with the land. Of course, if the site itself is registered in the property. Therefore, whether an object needs to be registered depends on the type and purpose. You can choose a solid capital building or a compact building. Lot interesting projects baths with one and two floors, with rest rooms, a terrace and an attic, you will find in the catalog of the MariSrub company.

Registration is required for a bathhouse with communication networks, living quarters, a deep foundation, i.e. if it is a capital structure. Also subject to registration are baths attached to a residential building or buildings, the layout of which provides for a bath inside the house.

How to register a bathhouse on a land plot

You can register a bathhouse using a cadastral passport or a simplified declaration. For registration, you need to make the necessary measurements, registration certificate, tie the object to the land. Thus, in order to obtain ownership of the bath, you must provide the following documents:

Application for state registration of property rights (a sample and form can be found on the Internet);
A document confirming the ownership of the land;
Passport of the applicant or representative;
Cadastral plan of the land;
Cadastral or technical certificate object (for non-residential objects - a declaration, a sample and form of which can be obtained from the BTI);
Receipt of payment of state duty. State duty for registration of real estate for individuals is 2000 rubles, for the registration of a land plot - 350 rubles.

To obtain ownership of a previously built bathhouse, outbuildings, garage or garden house according to the dacha amnesty, which is valid until 2018, it is not necessary to provide a building permit. However, if this is a new building, or you are only planning the construction of a capital facility, a permit is required.

If you submit documents through a representative, a power of attorney is required. Documents are submitted to the MFC or the Registration Chamber. The application is considered within a month.

Requirements for the construction of a bath

In order to obtain a building permit, issue a technical passport and project documentation for registering property rights, construction, technical and sanitary standards must be observed during construction. These are the following rules and guidelines:

The bath is located at a distance of at least 3 meters from the neighboring site and at least 5 meters from the residential building. It is desirable that it be viewed from the windows of a residential building;
The structure is installed at a distance of at least 20 meters from water bodies and wells to avoid water pollution;
It is desirable to carry out construction on a slightly elevated and flood-free place;
When building a wooden bath, wood elements must be treated with a special compound that will prevent the spread of fire in the event of a fire;
The ceiling of the object is insulated with fireproof materials. It is desirable to protect the area where the chimney is adjacent to the ceiling with a layer of sand with a radius of 70 centimeters in order to prevent fire in the event of cracks and damage to the chimney;
Asbestos-cement pipes, which are quickly destroyed due to exposure to high temperatures, cannot be used to install the chimney.
It is not recommended to use and metal constructions, as they get very hot and increase the fire hazard;
The areas that border the stoves are provided with fire screens made of plaster, tin and metal sheets or other similar materials;
A pre-furnace sheet with parameters of at least 60x70 cm must be laid in front of the furnace firebox. The wide side is placed along the furnace;
Doors are installed so that they open outward;
The room must have a fire extinguisher and ventilation openings;
Grounding and insulation of wires - mandatory conditions installation and conduction of electricity in the bath.

When designing, it is important to take into account not only the layout and number of storeys, but also sanitary and fire safety requirements. Therefore, it is better to turn to professionals. Masters of the MariSrub company will perform a full range of work, which includes the creation of a project, the installation of a foundation and the construction of a log house, the installation and connection of engineering networks, finishing!

The company "MariSrub" necessarily complies with the requirements and safety standards of sanitary and technical rules. We provide technical documentation, process wood with protective compounds. Let's construct any kind of a bath, including capital constructions and compact courtyard structures. An experienced architect will create an individual project or make changes to the standard version.

Hello to all blog readers. This article is rather dedicated to those who have not yet decided on how to build a bath in your suburban area. Although some points will be very useful for those who have already acquired a bath, but as it often happens, something is missing. Also on specific example let's see if it is possible to build a bathhouse alone, i.e. in one hand.

How do you imagine your vacation in the country without a Russian bath? Here I am all about the same. In it, you can completely relax, relieve accumulated fatigue and cleanse the body of toxins, and then sit down with the whole company at the table - drink tea, or maybe something stronger ...

My family asked this question as soon as we started talking on the topic: « Why don't we build a bathhouse? » Everything would be fine, but the word “what” included several concepts - “ what material; for how many people; how many and what sizes will be the rooms in the bath and most importantly choose under the bath?»

In search of solutions, I had to be guided by my (then still little) experience, as well as consult with neighbors, acquaintances and get to know the local conditions better. Well, we managed to learn something from books and magazines (then, unfortunately, there was no Internet yet). But the most interesting moment was that I had to build a bath alone, without help, relying only on his knowledge, hands and wife's "smart" tips.

At the family council, we clearly determined that the bath should be designed for 5-7 people. The second important issue was also adopted unanimously - - wooden beam . From which the design of the foundation was also determined - it had to be made of a shallow foundation, from ordinary (just left after the construction of the house) concrete blocks.

The base of the log bath - block

Doubts about creating three separate rooms in the bath: steam rooms, washing and changing rooms(part-time rest room) - no one had it. The addition of this ensemble will be a small open terrace.

How to build a bath in the country on your own?

Construction of the foundation for the bath

The soil at the site of the construction of the bath consisted of a layer of peat (in some places the thickness reached 0.5 m). And under it, sand of different grain size and water content was located in layers. Its upper layer, 10-12 cm thick, was distinguished by excellent strength and density, which is why it was decided to lay the foundation directly on it.

Under the frame of the bathhouse, six supports were prepared, each of which consisted of two concrete blocks (30 x 30 x 60 cm). Moreover, the lower blocks were laid flat, and the upper ones were standing right on them.

Such a design in terms of foundation stability did not raise any doubts. In the event of a draft of the building, due to its low weight, it could be corrected at any time using wag and several wooden linings. Looking ahead, I will say that in the ten years of service of this log bath, I have never had to do this.

Bath interiors

Dimensions internal separate rooms of the bath determined by their functional purposes. Here, for example, a steam room at the same time (for a maximum of 10-15 minutes) can be occupied by 2-4 people. But in the rest room more often they gather all at once and for a long time. Based on this, the dimensions of all the bath rooms and their location were determined.

Steam room, shelves in two tiers with ventilation

In the steam room, the regiments were arranged in two tiers. The skeleton of a cast-iron stove-heater, lined with stones, also came out here. On the outside of the heater stove, there is a mounted tank for heating water. The furnace, thanks to its design, can be readjusted with the help of dampers - either in the regime of the Russian bath, or in the regime Finnish sauna . The firebox of the stove-heater looks into the washing room.

AT rest room(it is also a dressing room), in addition to the table, there are benches along the perimeter of the walls. Two of which have the width required for lying. For heating water in washing department At first, titanium was used on wood with a shower installation. Later it was replaced with a closed shower with an electric heater. The booth, by the way, turned out to be the most suitable if you needed to take a shower without heating the steam room. Even in not the warmest weather, it is quite warm here and there is no need to melt the stove to wash or rinse.

Bath wall material

Bath walls collected from a pine bar. Inside and outside they were sheathed. But since all the work had to be done alone (and even under the strict control of the foreman-wife), each action had to be thought out and calculated in advance. Therefore, blanks from a bar (6 m long) for the construction of walls had to be cut according to the template with a chain saw, immediately for the entire bath. To facilitate the assembly of the log house, the joints at the corners were made in half a tree, fastening the bars along the length with a step of 1 m (also in the corners) with steel dowels.

Firebox exit to the washing room

Dowels a length of 1.5 beam heights was cut from a six-millimeter steel bar. After laying the next beam on the interventional insulation, through guide holes were drilled in it under the dowels with the passage of two underlying beams. Further, the dowels were driven into these holes, sinking them by 1-1.5 cm - so as not to interfere with the laying of the next beam.

rafters(for the assembly of the upper parts of the bath) were assembled on the ground and already ready-made were placed in the required place. The ceiling was sheathed with linden clapboard, punching planks from below to the beams of the ceiling. On the insulation of the ceiling, I decided not to be smart, but to insulate with what was at hand - dried peat, and in some places (around chimneys) expanded clay and the remains of mineral wool.

floors

Floor in all rooms, except for washing, also insulated. First, the draft floor, and on top of it and the laid insulation, standard tongue-and-groove boards were laid, which were carefully selected (mainly for splinters and chips) under the strict guidance, correctly, of the same foreman-wife. All boards must be carefully and smoothly planed and not have external defects and flakes in order to walk barefoot without fear of getting a splinter.

The bath, in addition to its direct purpose, was used (and quite often) as game room first for our children, and later for our grandchildren, along with their cheerful gang of friends and acquaintances - especially in inclement rainy weather. There they had all the conditions for various board and outdoor games. Sometimes, when they bothered me too much with their fuss, I told them: “But you shouldn’t go to the bathhouse ...” And they set off at full speed for their “bathhouse jobs”.

By the way, it turned out open terrace at the exit from the bath fenced with low railings. A great place to sit to catch your breath and recover after taking bath procedures. In the future, even then a small pond was outlined. But now, on the site of that bath from a bar, there is a chic one with a pool. But the dream of a small pond still remained.

At the exit from the bath - terrace

bath building mistakes

In conclusion, I would like to point out some flaws in the construction of this bath at their dacha, which crawled out already and in the process of construction, as well as its operation. So, for example, the width of the log house should have been made not 2.5 m, but all 3 m - there would be less waste of timber and veneer boards, firstly. Yes, and washing after

The cheapness of foam concrete makes it more and more popular among Russians who decide to build a bathhouse on their site.

At the same time, some have already built up, while others are only thinking about what it is better to invest in, and tend to block.

The latter really should think carefully and weigh everything, because this material for construction is quite controversial. Some express admiration, others criticize. We suggest weighing the pros and cons. And food for thought can be gleaned from our article.

Is it possible to build a bath from foam blocks?

Of course, there is no insurmountable obstacle to the construction of foam blocks. There are a number of shortcomings that (with effort) can be reduced almost to nothing. Therefore, much of the consideration is related to the cost-effectiveness of such efforts.

However, material without flaws simply does not exist, which means that the associated labor, financial and time costs will have to be accepted.

On the other hand, some are quite happy with their bathhouse from. In addition, there are options here: not everyone puts a separate bath on the site, some make it part of the house. In this case, the material is justified - the baths are fire hazardous, and the foam blocks do not burn.

The climate of the area also matters: where winters are mild, you can not hesitate to build from this material (foam concrete has low frost resistance).

Another important question: is it enough for the future owner of the bath that the foam block will probably last 15 years on average? On the other hand, investments are small, so hardly anyone has illusions about the durability of such a structure. So, if a foam block bath is being considered, the pros and cons need to be weighed by everyone on their own.

However, it is time to show the situation for what it is.

Foam block bath: pros and cons

Property	pros	Minuses
Thermal conductivity	Low, comparable to wood (0.18 W/m°C for pine, 0.16 W/m°C for foam concrete at 8% humidity)	The thermal conductivity of foam concrete is not uniform, because the sizes of the bubbles are different - this is a consequence of mechanical mixing.
Water absorption	The material is "breathable", it not only takes moisture, but also gives it away. Of course, evaporation requires appropriate weather conditions.	High. The main problem of foam concrete.
Frost resistance	–	Low. According to GOST 35 cycles of freezing and thawing without destruction. (Depends on the density: the lower it is, the fewer cycles. 35 - for dense.)
fire hazard	Almost zero, because foam concrete does not burn. The action of open fire withstands for 4 hours without destruction.	–
Soundproofing	Higher than a tree, although this is not the main thing for a bath.	–
tightness	High when using a special adhesive instead of a conventional mortar. Compliance with the technology guarantees the reliability of the joints and the absence of "cold bridges".	For tightness, glue is needed, and it costs more (although it is spent more economically).
fungus resistance	–	Low in conditions of high humidity and without protection with special impregnations.
Rodent resistance	–	They will not eat it, but they are able to gnaw it.
Construction speed	High: One 200x300x600 block equals 15 regular bricks or 13 silicate bricks.	–
Ease of installation	High: one person can easily handle the job, even a non-professional.	–
Price	Low. According to those who built it, the bath cost $100,000.	–

How to level the cons

The attitude towards the minuses should be optimistic: they all lend themselves to correction to one degree or another. Question: is it possible to build a bath from foam blocks, it is still not closed. Let's look at the points of all the disadvantages of foam concrete mentioned in the table.

Non-uniform thermal conductivity

As stated in the table, this is a consequence of technology, but still it is better to buy foam concrete at the factory than from those who make it without complying with GOST.

Water absorption

Protection from water represents two "lines of defense":

It is necessary to treat the walls with a water repellent- This is a substance that repels water, but does not affect the ability of the material to "breathe".
After that close the walls with a hydro-barrier and a vapor barrier, which are parts of the usual insulating "pie".

Both will significantly increase the durability of the foam concrete bath.

Insulation of the foam block bath wall includes vapor barrier, details.

Pie insulation outside, more information .

Frost resistance

As we are talking about the freezing of water inside the wall and about the freeze-thaw cycles, then moisture protection and good ventilation help get rid of water before it begins to show its destructive properties when it turns into ice.

Glue costs

The price of glue is twice as high as cement mortar, but the thickness of the adhesive layer does not exceed 5 mm, which means that there is no significant cost increase..

fungal resistance

The fungus infects any surface, if the room has high humidity. To combat it, antiseptics are used, but at the same time the problem of excess moisture must be eliminated. In the bath - this is drying and airing.

rodent resistance

The only thing they can't chew through is metal grid, therefore, where rodent control is relevant, it will be necessary to reinforce the bottom of the wall with such a grid, or at least the places chosen by them for passage.

fastener problem

At the same time, we also mention that a nail driven into a foam concrete wall will not hold, although it will be easy to drive it in. It's "healing" special dowels with ABC plastic nozzle. The screw is first screwed into the plastic, and then they are screwed together in advance drilled hole in foam concrete. This fastener will hold up well.

How to build

A foam block bath places special demands on technological and geometric accuracy during construction. Therefore, it is worth briefly going through the important points.

Foundation

Since the foam blocks weigh a little, and there are no multi-storey baths (maximum 2 floors), the load on the foundation will not be large. Therefore, lightweight options are made with a pit only 60 cm deep.

IMPORTANT! In this case, special attention should be paid to alignment - it is worth taking measurements more often and using a laser or other level.

Wall insulation

This is a necessary procedure that will not only keep the heat in the rooms, but also protect the wall material from moisture. produced inside and out. Internal insulation is possible.

The exterior is done by the method of a ventilated facade, while the following are used:

mineral wool;
glass wool;
jute felt, which applies to ;
Styrofoam.

IMPORTANT! At internal insulation foam is not used.

You can use the same, with the exception mentioned. In the steam room and washing room, it is mounted as a vapor barrier. should be chosen carefully. In order to dry the walls, air is made in them. Instead of conventional films, it is better to put a membrane as a waterproofing agent. depends on the tasks.

When insulating baths, an integrated approach is important, i.e. insulation of all parts of the building.

Proper placement of buildings is one of the most important steps in the arrangement of the site, regulated by the rules construction works. Irregular installation of the bath poses a threat to the health of people and the integrity of property.

The construction of a bath can be performed on various sites: from standard 6 acres with a non-permanent house to extensive land holdings with large mansions. But, no matter where the construction is going on, the question of location does not lose its relevance. Of course, if there is sufficient area, it is easier to swing, but if the size of the site is limited, then you have to calculate any centimeter.

Planning a safe distance between the bath and the neighboring territory should be based on the norms of SNiP.

A bathhouse on a personal plot can be built according to various projects and from different materials. Wood or brick, gutter or good septic tank to collect dirty water... These and other parameters affect the location of the bath.

The SNIP rules state that the minimum distance from the bath building to the fence is 300 cm. The design should not interfere with the comfort of neighbors, obscure their site. In addition, the bathhouse is a fire hazardous facility, and observing this gap reduces the risk that, in the event of a potential fire, the fire will spread to the neighboring territory.

A distance of 3 meters will protect the adjacent area from the ingress of dirty water, especially if the drains go into a simple ditch. The organization of a high-quality drainage system will help to save the extra 50 cm from the fence.

The distance from the neighboring residential building to the bath should be at least 800 cm. This parameter can be reduced to 600 cm if the bath is built of concrete blocks or bricks.
If the windows of the neighbor's house "look" at your side, then the gap between the buildings should be such that the smoke cannot penetrate into the neighbors' housing. If the window openings do not go to your side, then the distance can be reduced.

Rules within the site

Before starting the construction of a bath, it is necessary to consider all the nuances of its location relative to other buildings located on the site.

Distance to natural water bodies

Ideally, the bath complex is best located on the shore of the reservoir. Although there are certain rules. To protect the lake from sewage ingress, it is necessary that the steam room be located at least 15 meters from it.

It must be understood that the construction of a bathhouse near a pond threatens with several troubles:

It will become unprofitable if there are “marshy” soils on the site, as it will require additional costs to strengthen the foundation. If this measure is neglected, then after a certain time the bath will “float” along with the soil;
Requires strengthening coastline. Otherwise, construction pile foundation may result in slope collapse.

Thus, it is better if the bath is located 20-30 meters from the lake or pond.

In addition, according to the Water Code, the territory located along the coastline of a natural reservoir is in public ownership. It cannot be obstructed or blocked in any other way. The width of this strip is 20 meters.

Distance to home

The distance between the bath structure and a residential building within one section depends on the materials used in the construction and the method of heating the steam room.

If the bath is heated according to the "black", then it should be 12 meters from the residential building. In addition, it is recommended to build a steam room on the leeward side;
Firefighters do not recommend building a smoky bath on a site where many buildings have already been erected. This will bring discomfort to the inhabitants of the house and threatens with potential ignition.

But, in fact, fire safety requirements do not regulate the exact distance between the bathhouse and other structures on the territory of one site. The law does not prohibit building it close to a residential building or garage. The only thing that sanitary standards stipulate is the location of the washing room, or rather, how exactly the drains will be discharged.

But if possible, the distance from the bath to the buildings should meet the following standards:

The distance from a brick or stone structure to a brick house is 6 m;
If a residential building is built of wood with a roof of corrugated board or metal tiles, then 8 m;
If the building is completely made of wood, then the required distance is 10 m;
The distance between the bathhouse and the barn in which pets live is 4 m.

Conclusion

Before starting the construction of a bath, it is necessary to think over many important details regarding its location. The building plan must be worked out very carefully. A frivolous attitude to this issue threatens with further problems with neighbors and inspection bodies, as well as a high probability of penalties.

Rest without a bath is not a rest. Neither a summer shower nor bathing in a bath can replace a bathhouse in a suburban area. Of course, if the budget is very limited, you should not aim at the construction of a two-story bath complex with a swimming pool. But it is possible to build a small cozy bathhouse on a suburban area with minimal investment.

In this article, we will look at how a budget bath is built with our own hands, reveal the secrets of choosing and saving building materials, and tell you how to prevent missteps and mistakes for novice craftsmen.

The most popular materials for building baths are wood, bricks and blocks. wooden bath can be in the form of a log house or frame.

Wood

Wood is a classic material for building baths. Wood is valued for its environmental friendliness and ease of processing. Wooden baths warm up quickly, and essential resins released into the air have a positive effect on the well-being of visitors.

However, wood is far from ideal for construction. In order for the walls of the bath to be even, you need to choose a quality beam or log. Do not forget about shrinkage. The better the wood is dried, the lower the percentage of shrinkage and the risk that the log house will “lead”.

It is important to be able to work with an ax and a saw, to have sufficient physical strength and endurance to cut locks to connect corners, outer and internal walls, overlays. Of course, you can buy a ready-made log house with delivery to the site, but this is associated with additional costs and is not relevant for the construction of a budget bath. It is best to build at least two people, because alone it is extremely difficult to lay the crowns, especially the top ones.

For the construction of a bath, hardwood, such as linden, is best suited. This material is considered relatively light, therefore, if the geological conditions of the area allow, you can save on the foundation and limit yourself to a lightweight tape option (monolithic or prefabricated).

What else can you save on? For example, on insulation and decoration. If the bath will be used for its intended purpose only in the warm season, there is no need to purchase insulation, battens for battens, steam and wind insulation, finishing decorative material for the facade of the bath. A tree, if it is thoroughly sanded and coated with a protective impregnation, varnish, is quite aesthetically pleasing and fits perfectly into landscape design private land plots.

In a budget bath, you can save on the organization of a full-fledged sewerage and water supply. Since ancient times, in Russian baths, the floors were made torrential, and water was carried in buckets in advance. Yes, this causes some inconvenience, but it will not spoil the overall pleasant impression of bath procedures.

What can't be saved? Wood is a highly flammable material. It is worth a little oversight, not closing the blower door, as a hot coal that has fallen out will lead to a fire and damage to property. A similar situation is possible if fire safety rules are neglected when installing the stove and Therefore, in no case should you save on:

fire and bioprotective impregnation;
fire cutting;
materials for floor insulation in front of the firebox and

We strongly do not recommend saving on fasteners. Firstly, the difference will be insignificant, and secondly, low-quality metal hardware will quickly begin to rust, ugly black smudges will appear on the walls. The worst thing that rusted fasteners will lead to is the collapse of building elements due to the loss of nodes of their strength.

Very important in wooden baths proper ventilation. Even if the bath area is only 4-6 square meters. Visitors are unlikely to enjoy the smell of mustiness and mold, and the owner will not be pleased with rotting floors and walls.

Now more specifically about wood prices in order to roughly calculate construction costs.

lumber	Breed	Cross section or diameter, cm	Price in rubles per cubic meter
Profiled timber	Pine, spruce	140x140	From 11.5 to 14.5 thousand rubles.
Profiled timber	Larch	140x140	From 16.5 to 18.5 thousand rubles.
Kruglyak	Larch	180 to 460	From 8.5 to 10 thousand rubles.
gun carriage	Larch	150x250	From 15 thousand rubles.

*The average cost of building materials is relevant for 2017.

Based on the cost of new lumber, a budget bath will definitely not work. The way out of the situation is to buy a used beam at a price of 1,000 rubles per cubic meter or from 80 rubles per 1 piece. Used pallets can also come in handy if they are used correctly.

Bricks and blocks

A bath made of blocks or bricks will undoubtedly be more durable than a wooden one. And a sudden outbreak of fire is not terrible for stone walls. At your taste and discretion, you can build a bath of any size and shape, if only funds and personal time allow.

Brick manufacturers always have a large assortment of products of various shapes, shades, textures. For example, by combining bricks of two different shades during the construction of walls, you can build a bathhouse that looks very neat and aesthetic.

On a note! In a brick bath, the window can be replaced with glass blocks. They have sufficient light transmission. But in this case, it is important to take care of the arrangement of effective ventilation.

A brick bath warms up longer than a wooden one, and cools down much faster. brick walls need finishing, and this adds cost items to the overall estimate. For laying bricks, a cement-sand mortar is used, which can be bought ready-made and simply diluted with water in the right proportions, or you can prepare the mixture yourself and spend less money.

How much will it cost to build a bath from ordinary M100 bricks?

building material	Description	Price
	Width 120 mm, height 65 mm, length 250 mm.	From 6.20 RUB for 1 piece.
	It has the same dimensions as the ordinary. It is used for laying those walls that are exposed to direct heating. For example, fireclay bricks lay out a base for a furnace and a protective screen.	From 41 rub. for 1 piece.
	River sand for the preparation of masonry mixture or concrete mortar for pouring the foundation	From 68 rubles for 30 kg
	The purpose is the same as that of the sand. Fraction of crushed stone 5-20 mm.	From 86 rub. for 30 kg
	M400	From 195 rub. for 50 kg

For an example of calculating the cost of masonry, take single brick and laying in one brick (wall thickness will be 25 cm). Using the table data, we get:

taking into account mortar joints per 1 sq. m of masonry requires 102 bricks;
102 bricks x 6.20 rubles. = 632.4 rubles.

Brick prices

Usually a brick is purchased with a margin of up to 15%, taking into account possible marriage. And to the cost of laying 1 square meter of the wall, you need to add the cost of the solution. Do not forget that you may need a concrete mixer, grouting, a set of mason's tools, etc.

Foam blocks and gas blocks are materials that are increasingly used for the construction of baths. Their main advantage is the high speed of construction. Disadvantages are similar to bricks.

Blocks are laid with reinforcement of rows, fixation is carried out with special glue or cement-sand mortar.

For the construction of a bath, blocks with dimensions of 200 x 300 x 600 mm are often used. One such block costs from 93 rubles. For internal partitions blocks of smaller thickness are suitable - 100 or 120 mm and cost from 50 rubles per 1 pc.

The number of blocks in 1 sq. m the following:

with a wall thickness of 20 cm, in one square meter the walls will be 5.5 blocks (5.5 x 93 = 511 rubles);
with a wall thickness of 30 cm, there will be 8.33 blocks in one square meter of the wall (8.33 x 93 = 774.69 rubles).

We conclude: for the construction of a budget bath, it is preferable to use not bricks, but blocks of 200 x 300 x 600 mm, construction should be carried out with a wall thickness of 20 cm. 1.4 kg per 1 sq. m of masonry) and do not forget that the blocks are purchased with a margin.

Important! In an effort to save money, you should not sacrifice the reliability and durability of the bath. You can always buy, for example, a used brick for a penny, but there is no guarantee that in the next decade such a brick, and with it the walls of the bath, will not begin to collapse.

A big plus of building a bath from blocks is the high strength of the walls, which is achieved by reinforcing the rows. Provided that the reinforcement is properly made, the walls will not crack. Even during the construction of a budget bath, you should not neglect the margin of safety of the walls, so that in the next few years you will not start doing overhaul baths.

Prices for foam blocks

foam block

Construction of an aerated concrete bath with a brick plinth

We will consider the process of building a bath with dimensions of 6x5 m. This area is enough to equip three main rooms: a rest room or dressing room, a shower room, a steam room. If the free area on the site does not allow the construction of a 6x5 m bath, you can reduce the dimensions to 4x4 m, and divide the interior space into a dressing room and a steam room, without a shower and other amenities.

So, let's begin. Inspect your land, prepare a site for construction. It is necessary to remove debris, uproot stumps, remove the top layer of soil with grass growing on it, level and compact the site.

In advance, you need to prepare a bath project with the laying order. According to the drawings, it is easier to calculate the amount of building materials and conduct construction.

Make markings on the ground, dig trenches, fill in shallow strip foundation. Don't forget the perfumes. You can read more about pouring technology.

It is important to carefully level the upper surface of the foundation during the pouring process. If, nevertheless, the base has horizontal deviations, it is necessary to level everything with a cement-sand mortar.

Step 1. We lay on the foundation tape waterproofing material, for example, strips of roofing material.

Prices for roofing material

ruberoid

Step 2 We knead the cement-sand mortar for laying bricks. To prepare the solution, we use the proportions:

cement M400 - 1 bucket;
sifted river sand - 2 buckets;
dishwashing detergent or any similar - from 50 to 100 ml.

Important! We recommend that you first add water to the concrete mixer or mortar container and detergent, then add cement and sand, with constant stirring. The consistency of the finished solution will resemble thick sour cream, and if you run your finger over the mixture, a clear, not blurry trace will remain. Mixing should be carried out from 3 to 5 minutes.

The finished solution is transferred to buckets and transported to the construction site.

Step 3 We begin laying the brick base. We will work from the corners of the bath.

We apply the mortar with a trowel on the brick. We lay the brick at the corner of the foundation (along the outer edge). We put a bubble level on the brick and, if necessary, knock out the brick with the handle of the trowel. Repeat the procedure on the next corner of the bath foundation.

It is important that the bricks laid at the corners are at the same level. To check, we stretch the mooring thread, additionally check the position of the bricks with a water level. We put the second brick on each of the corners perpendicular to the first.

We are laying the basement "in one and a half bricks." At standard sizes bricks, the total width of the base will be 38 cm. This width is made up of one brick length (25 cm) and one brick width (12 cm), 1 cm is a bonding mortar joint.

Spoon out the first outer row. We lay the bricks on the mortar previously applied with a trowel, pressing into the mortar and slightly moving back and forth. We leave a gap between adjacent bricks, into which we add mortar with a trowel. Excess solution is immediately removed with a trowel. We knock out the bricks so that they are all in the same plane (the reference point is a stretched mooring thread). As a result, if you look at the base from the side of the "street", you will see a row laid "in half a brick".

We lay the inner row with a poke towards the future premises of the bath. Next, we lay the masonry according to the ordering scheme, observing the dressing of the seams.

We lay out 2 rows of bricks and proceed to the arrangement of the floor.

Step 4. To equip the floor covering, it is necessary to prepare the beams.

The beams must be fixed in the "nests" of the base to a depth of 10 cm. We measure the width of the interior, add 20 cm, we get the length of the beams. The cross section of the beams can be selected using the table.

*The cross section is indicated in millimeters. The beams are laid on edge. Maximum load for overlapping 400 kg / m 3.

We cut the roofing material into rectangular pieces 15 cm wide. We wrap the ends of the beams with roofing material, fix it with a construction stapler.

We lay the beams on the ends, observing an equal distance between them.

We continue with bricklaying.

We spread two more rows, observing the dressing. We also lay the brick between the beams, sawing it with a grinder if necessary.

The height of a single ordinary brick is 65 mm. Accordingly, two rows of bricks plus two mortar joints in height will be 150 mm, the upper surface of the beams will be flush with the surface of the brickwork.

Fourth row masonry

Recommendation! If the brick is pre-moistened with water (without soaking it), it will not absorb moisture from the solution. The lining will be very strong. The recommendation is relevant for work in hot weather.

Step 5 The basement is built, we proceed to the laying of walls from aerated concrete blocks.

We lay a layer of roofing material on a brick over the entire surface of the external and internal walls of the bath.

We start work again from the corners of the bath. We knead the solution, lay out a layer on top of the roofing material.

The solution is leveled with a notched trowel. Installing the first block.

Similarly, we install the second block on the adjacent corner of the basement. The most difficult thing is to bring both blocks to zero. We perform the check with a hydraulic level, a bubble level, if any laser level better to use it.

Haste is inappropriate here. If necessary, you can remove the block, remove excess solution, or add more solution. The horizontal deviation should not be more than two millimeters.

We lay out the first row of blocks on the solution. If the distance between adjacent blocks does not allow the installation of a whole block, it is necessary to cut with a hacksaw with small teeth. After cutting from the block, we sweep away the dust with a brush.

When laying out the blocks, do not forget about the doorway.

Step 6 We proceed to the reinforcement of the first row of blocks.

We are preparing a set of tools for work in advance.

Tool	Approximate minimum cost, rub.
	450
	490
	500
	600
	365

*Used tools will cost less.

For reinforcement, we use corrugated bars of class A3. Bar diameter 8 mm. Reinforcement of greater thickness is not advisable to take.

Using a manual wall chaser, we cut two grooves for the reinforcement. For convenience, you can draw in advance with a pencil on the surface of the blocks two parallel straight lines along the ruler. At the corners of the bath and at the junctions of the internal partitions with the external walls, the strobes are rounded, parallel.

We clean the surface of the strobe from dust using a damp brush.

We take the reinforcement and put it in the strobes. We bend the reinforcement at the corners. Pay attention that the reinforcement bars are not connected at the corners. The connection of bars is possible at a distance of more than 30 cm from the corners.

We take out the reinforcement from the strobe, put it on the surface of the blocks.

We knead the glue for aerated concrete (the approximate cost for 25 kg is 220 rubles).

Pour water into the bucket, then pour the dry mixture from the bag. We mix the glue with a drill with a mixer attachment at low speeds (up to 800 rpm). The consistency of the glue should be similar to thick sour cream. The glue must not spread.

We fill the strobes with glue. We spread the glue with a spatula. Embed the rebar in the glue. If necessary, add more glue on top of the laid reinforcement so that the surface of the gas blocks is smooth, without recesses or bumps.

Step 7 We proceed to laying the second row of gas blocks. We start traditionally from the corner. Let's start applying glue under the block.

Important! Do not forget about the need to lay blocks with a dressing similar to brickwork"in half a brick." The offset of the upper block relative to the lower one should be from 15 cm to ½ of the block length.

It is most convenient to apply glue with a ladle (trowel). The working width of the trowel must match the width of the block. This will allow you to apply the adhesive quickly and accurately. But sometimes builders use homemade devices, such as in the photo. The main thing is to evenly apply a thin layer of glue over the entire surface of the blocks.

On a note! The applied layer of glue can be continuous, but it is the use of notched trowels or special buckets that can reduce the consumption of glue.

We continue laying blocks of the second row. We check the correctness of the installation of the blocks in two planes - in the vertical and horizontal. If necessary, grind the surfaces of the blocks.

For the convenience of ligation of blocks, you can start laying from half a block. We cut the gas block with a hacksaw. We sweep away the dust with a brush. We apply a thick layer of glue (2-3 mm) to the ends of the block. Installing the block.

We continue laying blocks of the second row. We check the correctness of the installation of the blocks in two planes - in the vertical and horizontal.

Important! If the bath is more than 6 meters high, it is recommended to reinforce every fourth row of masonry.

Prices for cement M600

cement M600

Step 8 We turn to the laying of jumpers, their reinforcement.

There should be reinforced lintels above the window and door openings. The easiest way is to use U-blocks, but this comes at an additional cost.

To save money, you can manually make recesses in ordinary gas blocks. To do this, we make two cuts along the width of the notch on the block with a hacksaw, then we remove the excess material using a chisel and a hammer.

For laying blocks, we make formwork from boards. Blocks will rest on the top of the formwork. We fix the horizontal board with props, fasten the elements with ordinary self-tapping screws.

The armored belt should protrude beyond the window and door openings by at least 15 cm. We install the blocks on the formwork. The ends of the blocks are fastened with glue.

Inside the blocks, closer to the outer edge, we lay pieces of EPPS (Penoplex) 50 mm thick.

We start knitting the armo-belt. We use plastic clamps (screeds) for binding. The armored belt consists of four long parallel bars, and every 0.5 m - vertical pieces of reinforcement. In cross section, the armored belt should form a square.

Important! It is impossible to lay the armored belt directly on aerated concrete. Plastic clips must be used. Without clamps, the armoframe will not take the correct position and will not be filled with concrete from all sides.

We install the frame with clamps and fill it with concrete flush with the edges of the gas blocks. We compact the concrete mixture by piercing with a bar or wooden lath. We level the surface as carefully as possible.

Now you need to make a technical pause and wait until the solution sets. This will take from 10 days to two weeks.

Step 9 So, the concrete in the lintels has frozen, we continue construction. If the height of the walls is insufficient, lay out another row of blocks. In our case, this row will be the final one on the first floor and at the same time will perform the function of an armored belt.

We make the armored belt on the floor using the same technology as the lintels, but with one difference. Now the armored belt will be filled along the entire perimeter of the outer and inner walls. For the sake of economy, we do not use U-blocks, but cut and hollow out solid wall blocks.

We lay the entire row of prepared blocks on the glue.
We install polystyrene boards. We cut them carefully, along the ruler, so that the edges are even.
We knit armoframe.
We put the clamps, put the frame inside the blocks.

We pour concrete.
Leveling the surface.
We are waiting for the concrete to harden.

Step 10 The first floor cannot immediately end with a roof, of course. We proceed to the arrangement of the interfloor overlap. It will be wooden. Antiseptic beams with waterproofed ends are laid on the armored belt. A similar technology was discussed above when the plinth was being built.

But since now we are not laying a brick, but a gas block, we make cuts in each block under the ends of the beams.

It is important to accurately measure the distances between the beams and carefully select even rectangular niches in the blocks with a chisel and hammer. We carry out the laying of blocks in a standard way, observing the dressing, applying glue to the previous row and the ends of the blocks.

Important! In our construction example, the bath will have a small balcony. Therefore, several beams are carried outside the walls of the bath.

Step 11 We lay the subfloor. We stack edged board over the beams. We fix the boards to the beams with self-tapping screws through the board. If the board is 50 mm thick, we take hardware 8 cm long.

We leave a rectangular opening in the floor for access to the attic.

In the future, when the floors are ready, windows and doors are inserted, decorative finishing will be carried out, foil vapor barrier will be stretched in the steam room, lining or a simple hardwood board will be nailed.

Step 12 Usually, a one-story bath is quite enough for the owners for a comfortable pastime. The space under the roof is often used to store fragrant bath brooms.

Sometimes in the bathhouse on the second floor they put a small sofa, a table, equipping a rest room. Our project provides just such a room on the second floor. After the bath procedures, it will be nice to relax, cool down, going out onto a small balcony. A window on the second floor will increase the efficiency of ventilation and will reduce the cost of building materials.

Roof of complex configuration. On both sides there are two trapezoidal pediments, tightly laid with a gas block. And if you look from the side of one of these gables, the perpendicular slopes of the roof are clearly visible on both sides.

Advice! If you are not confident in your abilities, limit yourself to building a simple shed or gable roof.

The main stages of work during the construction of the second floor and roof:

installation of vertical racks from a bar;
installation of horizontal strapping;
flooring of floor beams over the strapping;
installation of extreme roof trusses along the gables;
Floor beams and rafters
installation of intermediate roof trusses;
laying gables from blocks;
installation of vapor barrier from the side of the room;
filing the ceiling, slopes from the inside with a board;
laying mineral wool in two layers;
installation of wind protection on top of the insulation;
installation of a counter-lattice under a metal tile;
assembly of a gable canopy over the balcony, installation of a windproof membrane and a counter-lattice on the slopes of the canopy;
installation of metal tiles and additional elements.

You can see how the roof of a complex configuration is being built in the video.

Prices for gas blocks

gas blocks

Video - Roof Construction

Video - Construction of gables

Video - Rafters, armored belt

Video - Completion of the installation of rafters, laying of aerated concrete walls of the second floor

Video - Overlapping, vapor barrier

Video - Roof insulation

Video - Counter-lattice for metal tiles

Video - Washed down the ends of the counter-lattice, filing the ceiling of the ceiling

Video - Laying metal tiles

Shed roof for a budget bath

Step 1. We fasten the Mauerlat over the armored belt. It is a board fixed with dowels (grouses).

We drill holes in the boards, and then in the blocks. We hammer dowels. We lay a layer of roofing material as a waterproofing. We put the Mauerlat board, screw in the screws (grouse).

Step 2. Install vertical racks and horizontal tie bar. The height of the front part is 130 cm, from the rear of the bath - 30 cm. The slope of the roof will be 18 degrees.

We fix the beams with metal perforated corners and wood screws.

On a note! So that the racks do not loosen from gusts of wind, we temporarily fasten the boards connecting the front and rear frames with self-tapping screws.

Step 3 We lay the rafters (we put straight boards on the edge and fasten them with perforated corners to the horizontal bars of the front and rear frames).

Step 4 Perpendicular to the rafters, we mount the boards of the counter-lattice.

Step 5 We fasten sheets of corrugated board. We cut off the counter-lattices sticking out along the edges of the board.

Step 6 We strengthen the frame with jibs. On the sides we install columns from a bar and one additional strut each, in order to attach the skin in the future.

Step 7 We hem the draft ceiling.

Step 8 Sheathe the frame with plywood. Plywood sheets are treated with a protective impregnation.

Step 9 We foam the gaps between the blocks and plywood.

Step 10 If the decorative finishing of the facade is not yet planned, we fix the protective visors made of tin.

As decorative finishes the facade of the bath, you can use plaster. It is necessary to choose a mixture for cellular concrete. Conventional cement-sand mixtures are not suitable for this purpose. Aerated concrete quickly absorbs all the moisture from the plaster, decorative coating cracks and falls off.

To plaster the facade, you need to clean it with a grater from the remnants of glue, grind off the bumps, if any. After grinding, the walls must be primed with the Aerated Concrete-Contact primer. The plaster mortar is applied with a wide spatula over the fiberglass mesh fixed with self-tapping screws. After the plaster has dried, you can paint the facade or simply apply a water repellent.